Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Sat 14th Aug 2021 - Valley of the Ten Peaks | ||||||
Deltaform Mountain | ||||||
5.6 | ★ East Ridge | 400m | ★ Good | |||
Better than expected rock quality, didn't need to pitch out any of the route. Did one rappel off the first gendarme, and scrambled and soloed all the way to the summit.
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5.8 5.8 TD | ★ Flying Buttress | 800m | ★ Good | |||
Holy shit. Mega day - all the way to the summit, down and over Neptuak to return. Rock is ok, great in places and less so in others.
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Sat 24th Jul 2021 - Lake Louise | ||||||
Mt Temple | ||||||
5.10a 5.10a TD | ★★★ Greenwood-Jones | 1300m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Fantastic route. Climbed in a long day from Paradise trailhead, with lots of simulclimbing. Phenomenal.
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Sun 16th Feb 2020 - Icefields Parkway | ||||||
Weeping Wall Lower Weeping Wall | ||||||
M4 WI3 | ★★ It's A Cryin' Shame - with Colin | 150m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Not sure if this has seen a second ascent before us, but it's worth it as a fun alternate finish to Snivelling Gully. The mixed crux pitch is tenuous and hooky; good practice for the alpine!
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Fri 14th Feb 2020 - Lake Louise | ||||||
Louise Falls | ||||||
WI4+ WI4 - 5 | ★★★ Louise Falls | 110m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Led the whole route in a morning. Good shape, not too picked out. Cleaned a ton of V-threads on rappel.
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Sun 5th Jan 2020 - Banff | ||||||
Bear Spirit Crag | ||||||
M9 | ★ All Canadian Torque | 10m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Needs ice to top out. Very hard and thin otherwise.
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WI4 | ★★ Main Curtain | 10m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Very picked out.. good for laps
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WI4 | ★★ Main Curtain | 10m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Very picked out.. good for laps
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WI4 | ★★ Main Curtain | 10m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Very picked out.. good for laps
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WI4 | ★★ Main Curtain | 10m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Very picked out.. good for laps
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WI4 | ★★ Main Curtain | 10m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Very picked out.. good for laps
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Tue 31st Dec 2019 - Icefields Parkway | ||||||
Beauty Creek | ||||||
WI4 | ★★★ Shades of Beauty | 110m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Last route with Ed before he went home. Fun, and great views out to the Parkway and across to Stanley Falls Senior.
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Sun 29th Dec 2019 - Canmore | ||||||
McGillivray Slabs | ||||||
WI3 | ★ Waterhole | 60m | ★ Good | |||
Quite picked out and fat, but still fun.
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Sun 8th Dec 2019 - The Ghost | ||||||
The North Ghost | ||||||
WI4 | ★★★ Beowulf | 670m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Shared leads - I led crux. Long rambly route.
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Sun 20th Oct 2019 - The Ghost | ||||||
Orient Point | ||||||
WI3 WI3 III | ★★ The Joker | 50m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Pretty thin lower curtain, then went for an adventure in the bowls above.
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Thu 12th Sep 2019 - Canmore | ||||||
Grassi Lakes Meathooks Area | ||||||
5.11a | ★★ Meathooks | 20m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Gave it a go... two hangs on the top two bolts.
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5.11a | ★★ Meathooks | 20m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
So very nearly had it! Fell from the lip of the roof just before it gets easier.
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Thu 12th Sep 2019 - Canmore | ||||||
Grassi Lakes White Imperialist Area | ||||||
5.10a | ★ Golden Horde | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fun warmup.
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5.10b | ★★ Dark Design | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Put up the draws for Zoe. Felt good above draws on the upper bit.
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Wed 11th Sep 2019 - Canmore | ||||||
Grassi Lakes Meathooks Area | ||||||
5.11a | ★★ Meathooks | 20m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Ooof. Still pumpy even if I'm getting super close to getting it.
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5.11a | ★★ Meathooks | 20m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Made it! Now for the redpoint.
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5.11c | ★★ Holey Shit | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Very pumpy. Figured out a bit more of a sequence.
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5.11c | ★★ Holey Shit | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Managed to pull through the whole thing!
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Fri 6th Sep 2019 - Canmore | ||||||
Grassi Lakes White Imperialist, Right | ||||||
5.11a | ★★★ A Bold New Plan | 20m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Fell just above the flake. Didn't get a good rest.
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5.11a | ★★★ A Bold New Plan | 20m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Fell a bit lower, working moves to get a better rest at the 5th bolt.
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5.11a | ★★★ A Bold New Plan | 20m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Made it at last, just as the light was going. Got past the flake and still had juice to keep going!
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Fri 6th Sep 2019 - Canmore | ||||||
Grassi Lakes White Imperialist Area | ||||||
5.10b | ★★ Dark Design | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Warmed up on this. Bit more tricky than I was expecting.
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Fri 30th Aug 2019 - Lake Louise | ||||||
Mount Victoria | ||||||
5.4 5.4 IV | ★ North and South Peak Traverse | 200m | ★ Good | |||
Climbed over 2 days. Bivied near summit of N Vic; climbed ridge unroped except for 2 rappels from N Vic to Abbott Pass. Very loose. Descended via Fuhrmann Ledges in the rain.
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Mon 5th Aug 2019 - Canmore | ||||||
Grassi Lakes Hermit Wall | ||||||
5.10b | ★ The Eyes Have It | 10m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Fun, but awkward and a little polished. Took at the 3rd bolt.
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5.10b | ★ The Eyes Have It | 10m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Did it clean with a couple tenuous traverses back and forth across the bolt line.
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Wed 31st Jul 2019 - Canmore | ||||||
Cougar Canyon Chameleon. | ||||||
5.9 | ★ The Truth is out There. | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Easy warmup. First bolt is unnecessary due to flooding.
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5.9 | Back to the Future. | 16m, 4 | Average | |||
5.10a | ★ Dry Heat. | 18m | ★ Good | |||
Better quality than 10 Years. Not straightforward but good holds.
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5.10a 5.10c | ★ Ten Years After. | 19m, 6 | Average | |||
Upper section slightly crumbly. Otherwise fun if awkwardly bolted.
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Mon 29th Jul 2019 - Banff | ||||||
Castle Mountain Brewer Buttress | ||||||
5.6 | ★★★ Brewer Buttress | 380m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Linked pitches all the way above Ultrabrewers. Fun and easy.
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Mon 29th Jul 2019 - Banff | ||||||
Castle Mountain Ultra Brewers | ||||||
5.9 | ★★★ Ultra-Brewers | 320m | ★★★ Classic | |||
First pitch was crumbly ratshit.... the rest was great quality if a bit exposed up high.
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Thu 25th Jul 2019 - Canmore | ||||||
Cougar Canyon Chameleon. | ||||||
5.11b | ★★ Lounge Lizard. - with Ethan Woodside | 21m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Got the route clean on TR - now for the send.
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5.11b | ★★ Lounge Lizard. - with Ethan Woodside | 21m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
First 11b!
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5.10a | ★ Call of the Wild. | 20m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Fun mellow warmup. Well bolted.
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5.11b | ★★ Lounge Lizard. - with Ethan Woodside | 21m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Incomplete, didn't make it up.
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Fri 12th Jul 2019 - Canmore | ||||||
Grassi Lakes Hermit Wall | ||||||
5.11a | ★★★ Mr Manners | 20m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great fun - had a couple rests and just powered through the steep juggy headwall.
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5.11a | ★★★ Mr Manners | 20m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Found better beta this time around. Still fun.
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Wed 10th Jul 2019 - Yamnuska | ||||||
East End | ||||||
5.7 | C Route | 110m | ||||
Led P2 - good to get back on limestone after my fall.
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Tue 9th Jul 2019 - Banff | ||||||
Tunnel Mountain Industrial Playground | ||||||
5.10b | ★ Die Laughing | 18m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Varied moves on a big booming flake.
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5.11b | ★ Whistle whistle click click | 17m, 7 | Average | |||
Fun, techy. Dirty holds low down.
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5.11a | ★★ Steel bananas | 17m | ★★ Very Good | |||
My style of route - techy slab!
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5.10a | ★★ Digitalised Chaos | 16m | ||||
Good warmup.
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5.10b 5.10c | ★★ Charlatan | 28m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Interesting and fun. Crimpy.
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5.10b | ★ Femtograms (Femtagrams) | 22m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
Crux comes down low on slab.
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5.10b 5.10c | ★★ The Cat Came Back | 21m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Techy low down, to a juggy roof and fun chert above.
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5.10b | ★ Calypso | 22m | ★ Good | |||
Spicy runouts in places.
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5.10c | ★ Castilleja | 21m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Bad stance to clip for the crux moves.
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Sun 9th Jun 2019 - Lake Louise | ||||||
The Amphitheatre | ||||||
5.10a | ★★★ Long Stemmed Rose | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Cleaned the route again. Unfortunately a bit shaky.
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Sun 9th Jun 2019 - Lake Louise | ||||||
Outhouse Area | ||||||
5.10b | ★★ Turtle Mountain | 25m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
First exam route out of the way.
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5.11a | ★★★ Mardi Gras | 23m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
5.11a | ★★★ Mardi Gras | 23m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Finally! Second try and I redpointed on the exam.
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5.10a | ★★ Public Enemy | 23m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Warmup. Felt kinda rough on my back.
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Wed 5th Jun 2019 - Canmore | ||||||
EEOR | ||||||
5.9 5.8 | ★★ Eeyore's Tail | 360m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Climbed alternate finish to upper chimney (goes at ~5.10c/d). Step back right into the final chimney instead of using the upper ramp (loose)
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Sun 2nd Jun 2019 - Lake Louise | ||||||
The Amphitheatre | ||||||
5.10c | ★★ I Hear My Train A-Comin' | 21m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Need to work out beta better.
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5.10c | ★★ I Hear My Train A-Comin' | 21m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Alright it's happening again. Got the moves clean.
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5.10c | ★★ I Hear My Train A-Comin' | 21m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Placed all the gear on TR. Now to lead it.
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5.10a | ★★★ Long Stemmed Rose | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
5.9 | ★★ Imaginary Face | 25m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fun warmup to the main event.
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5.10c | ★★ I Hear My Train A-Comin' | 21m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Mon 27th May 2019 - Lake Louise | ||||||
The Amphitheatre | ||||||
5.10a | ★★★ Long Stemmed Rose | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
5.10c | ★★ Crimson Skies | 31m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Hard, especially pulling the big roof.
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5.10c | ★★ I Hear My Train A-Comin' | 21m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Getting worse...
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5.7 | ★ Propeller | 27m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Did it without using the bolts. Gear all the way up.
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Sun 26th May 2019 - Lake Louise | ||||||
Outhouse Area | ||||||
5.11a | ★★★ Mardi Gras | 23m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
5.11a | ★★★ Mardi Gras | 23m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Tried on lead, got a reasonable way!
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5.11a | ★★★ Mardi Gras | 23m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
And again. Did crux, failed at roof.
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5.11a | ★★★ Mardi Gras | 23m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Getting better; beta's starting to come around;
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5.11a | ★★★ Wicked Gravity | 22m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Pumping out severely. Need to get stronger.
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5.10b | ★★ Turtle Mountain | 25m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Got the beta wired now.
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Sun 26th May 2019 - Lake Louise | ||||||
The Amphitheatre | ||||||
5.10b | ★★★ Violet Hour | 27m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Gotta try and lead this. But it'll be hard.
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5.7 | ★ Propeller | 27m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Fun offwidth/chimney section up higher.
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Thu 23rd May 2019 - Canmore | ||||||
Grassi Lakes Hermit Wall | ||||||
5.10d 5.11a | ★ Cold Fusion | 22m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Going great till the pull onto the slab up top... thin slopers for hands and poor feet.
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5.10d | ★ Cold Fusion | 22m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Barely fell at the same place as before.
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Tue 21st May 2019 - Lake Louise | ||||||
Outhouse Area | ||||||
5.10b | ★★ Turtle Mountain | 25m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.11a | ★★★ Mardi Gras | 23m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
5.11a | ★★★ Mardi Gras | 23m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Starting to work out the crux traverse and roof beta.
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5.10a | ★★ Public Enemy | 23m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.11a | ★★★ Wicked Gravity | 22m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
5.11a | ★★★ Wicked Gravity | 22m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Only one rest this time! Almost got it...
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Mon 20th May 2019 - Lake Louise | ||||||
The Amphitheatre | ||||||
5.8 | ★★ Corner Journey | 50m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Can't wait to try this on lead. Very fun to climb second.
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5.8 | ★★ Imaginary Grace | 28m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Interesting route with good gear throughout.
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5.10c | ★★ I Hear My Train A-Comin' | 21m | ||||
Hard and awkward. Pumpy overhanging bit up high.
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5.10c | ★★ I Hear My Train A-Comin' | 21m | ||||
Got it clean... now for headpointing it with gear.
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Mon 13th May 2019 - Lake Louise | ||||||
Outhouse Area | ||||||
5.8 | ★ Neverland | 16m, 7 | Average | |||
5.10b | ★★ Turtle Mountain | 25m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.11a | ★★★ Mardi Gras | 23m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Mon 13th May 2019 - Lake Louise | ||||||
Blob Rock | ||||||
5.9 | ★ If In Doubt | 22m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
5.9 | ★★ Castle Anthrax | 25m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fri 14th Dec 2018 - Peskett Canyon Ice | ||||||
WI4- | ★★★ End of the Line | 100m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Very chandeliered, but good fun with good sticks, feet and rests throughout.
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WI3 | ★★ Lovely Parting Gifts | 65m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Steep initial curtain, easing off quickly above.
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Thu 13th Dec 2018 - Kananaskis Country | ||||||
King Creek | ||||||
5.7 5.7 WI3 | ★ Jokers Wild | 22m | ★ Good | |||
Fun and interesting moves up a thin smear, then on rock out of a cave and up to the belay.
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5.8 5.8 WI3 R | ★★ Magic Touch | 50m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Thin ice leading to a super fun pitch of mixed climbing up a crack feature. Good rock quality.
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Sat 24th Nov 2018 - Icefields Parkway | ||||||
Tangle Ridge | ||||||
WI3 | ★★ Melt Out | 140m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Another fun day out. Route was in thin conditions.
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Sun 18th Nov 2018 - Canmore | ||||||
Stewart Creek | ||||||
WI4- 5.7 WI4 IV R | ★★ Twisted Sister | 250m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Descended from just below crux due to lack of daylight.
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Sat 17th Nov 2018 - Banff | ||||||
Cascade Mountain | ||||||
WI3- | ★ Urs Hole | 100m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Simul soloed full route, dropping a rope on the final pitch for my partner. Great ambiance!
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