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Main Face 🚫

  • Grade context: US

Climbing in this area is closed.

5

Description

Right side of the cliff.

Access issues inherited from Eardley Escarpment

NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT.

https://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing links to https://ncc-website-2.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/Rock-Climbing-in-Gatineau-Park.pdf?mtime=20200113133647 which says, " Creating new routes is not permitted".

The Eardley Escarpment is contained in Gatineau Park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing.

Cliff-top access is permitted only at Home Cliff and Western Cwm, at other crags climbs must be climbed from ground up.

The NCC, land-managers for Gatineau park, have a history of changing their web-page layout making direct-linking risky. As of fall 2018, their statement on climbing is available at: http://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing

While the origins of the closure was ecological sensitivity for the Eardley Escarpment (which is on the southern flank of the park), and originated as specific closures in that area, the current phrasing is a list of permitted areas within the park, meaning anything not in that list is, by omission, not open to climbing.

Ethic inherited from Eardley Escarpment

No new development or bolting allowed. Strong tradition of leaving trad routes trad, even if badly run-out.

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Routes

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Grade Route
Closed

Recommended for top-rope. Follow the small dihedral immediately left of the main face making a small crux-detour to the main face about half-way up. Finish up the short finger-corner-crack.

Closed

Another top-rope. This is a nice climb up the vertical face left of Hawk Watch.

Closed

Face climb up to the ledge (crux harder than 5.4) and follow the corner up the middle of the face.

Closed

Climb up to the ledge, then make a few technical moves to gain the arch. Step left onto the steep face which is scaled on unsuspectedly good holds. No pro past the arch.

Closed

Climb up the right side of the featured right arete of the face, pulling around and overhang at mid-height and exiting up a depression with loose blocks.

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Sat 20 May
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