Help

South Face 🚫

  • Grade context: US

Climbing in this area is closed.

9
YDS

Access issues inherited from Eardley Escarpment

NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT.

https://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing links to https://ncc-website-2.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/Rock-Climbing-in-Gatineau-Park.pdf?mtime=20200113133647 which says, " Creating new routes is not permitted".

The Eardley Escarpment is contained in Gatineau Park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing.

Cliff-top access is permitted only at Home Cliff and Western Cwm, at other crags climbs must be climbed from ground up.

The NCC, land-managers for Gatineau park, have a history of changing their web-page layout making direct-linking risky. As of fall 2018, their statement on climbing is available at: http://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing

While the origins of the closure was ecological sensitivity for the Eardley Escarpment (which is on the southern flank of the park), and originated as specific closures in that area, the current phrasing is a list of permitted areas within the park, meaning anything not in that list is, by omission, not open to climbing.

Ethic inherited from Eardley Escarpment

No new development or bolting allowed. Strong tradition of leaving trad routes trad, even if badly run-out.

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit Convert grades
Grade Route
Closed

A great climb that follows a continuous right-slanting crack through a steep face then up a long corner, all the way to the top. Start at a big sloping ledge 2m off the ground.

  1. (5.7 A1) Aid climb the thin right slanting crack through the steep face to ledges and a good belay up and left. (Or, go straight up the corner to an alternative belay above.)
  2. (5.6 A1 or 5.9) From the belay, move back right to the narrow which is followed all the way up to a small niche (alternative 1st belay). Exit right of this to easier ground and a final steep corner. Belay at trees above. Walk down the far left end of the cliff or rappel from a bent pine tree down at the edge of the cliff. (30m rappel)
Closed
Closed
Closed
Closed
Closed
Closed
Closed
Closed

Accommodations nearby more Hide

Share this

Wed 17 May
Check out what is happening in South Face.

Get a detailed insight with a timeline showing

  • Ticks by climbers like you
  • Discussions of the community
  • Updates to the index by our users
  • and many more things.

Login to see the timeline!

Deutsch English Español Français Italiano 한국어 Português 中文