Showing all 100 ascents.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
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Sat 30th Mar 2024 - Lac Sam | |||||||
Lower Cliff | |||||||
5.7 Hard | ★ Giggles | 20m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
I am coming to appreciate Giggles more and more for how solid and sustained the climbing is at the grade.
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5.9 Hard | ★★ Time to Rock It | 22m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
If you can figure out the beta for the start, 5.9 is fair -- but it is a WEIRD start. If you don't figure out the beta, then it will feel MUCH harder. Also, might be height-dependent. We need to get a short climber to give it a try.
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5.7 | Stairway to Hell - right variant | 25m | ★ Good | ||||
Could use some more cleaning, but if that is done, would be a fine route.
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5.8 ~5.9 | ★★ Diggy Diggy Hole | 18m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Like many of the climbs at Lower Cliff, a bit stiff for the grade.
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5.10a | ★★ Slab o' Doom 2.0 - with David Gibbs, Bartski | 25m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Upper section is a bit dirty
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5.7 | ★★ Randy Moss - with David Gibbs, Bartski | 25m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
The moss is Randy. Could use a bit of a scrub
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5.9 | ★★ Time to Rock It — 2 attempts - with David Gibbs, Bartski | 22m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Could not figure it out for the FFA, so Bart went for it and got it. After seeing him I was able to do it on top rope.
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5.7 | Stairway to Hell - right variant - with David Gibbs, Bartski | 25m | Average | ||||
Was still a bit dirty and gear not as good as hoped.
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Sun 10th Sep 2023 - Lac Sam | |||||||
Lower Cliff | |||||||
5.10d | ★★★ Arriving Somewhere (but not here) - with Bartski | 15m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Super happy I got this, and it's a great route that doesn't just have one hard move but a really fun sequence to puzzle out.
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5.10b | ★★ Metamorphic Delicacy - with Bartski | 15m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Still a great route. Today I didn't mind the bolting.
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5.8 | ★★ Diggy Diggy Hole - with Bartski | 18m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Needs a serious cleaning. The route is quite fun though.
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Mon 3rd Jul 2023 - Lac Sam | |||||||
Lower Cliff | |||||||
5.10d | ★★★ Arriving Somewhere (but not here) - with Bartski | 15m, 6 | |||||
Not today. Maybe if I use Bart's moves, going much higher to the right on the ramp and then push off if it with the right hand...
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5.9 | ★★ Little Lion Face - with Bartski | 25m, 10 | ★ Good | ||||
Could use a brushing but it's fine to climb it. For now... I wish more people came and tried lower cliff. It would help keep it cleaner and it's worth it.
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5.7 | ★★ Randy Moss - with Bartski | 25m, 9 | ★ Good | ||||
Getting a bit dirty, but still fine to climb. The holds are clean enough.
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5.10a | ★★ Mercy Street - with Bartski | 20m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Happy to get it today
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Sat 18th Jun 2022 - Lac Sam | |||||||
Lower Cliff | |||||||
5.7 | ★★ Randy Moss | 25m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Hard for a 5.7. Though, that might have been the humidity.
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5.10a | ★★ Slab o' Doom 2.0 | 25m, 10 | ★ Good | ||||
One take, found the foot-hold, continued clean.
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5.9 | ★★ Little Lion Face | 25m, 10 | ★ Good | ||||
Bunch of falls on this while I tried to work out the beta at the crux.
The hardest move on this is probably about as hard as the hardest move on Slab-o-doom, but SLab-o-doom has a lot more of those moves in a row. Still, I think this is a solid 5.9+. Just wish The Crag would let me set that as a grade. |
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5.10b | ★★ Metamorphic Delicacy | 15m, 7 | ★ Good | ||||
Definitely harder than Slab-o-Doom; so 10b seems fair.
And some of the holds are really sharp. Actually, that's Lower Cliff -- generally the sharpest rock at Lac Sam. |
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Thu 1st Jul 2021 - Lac Sam | |||||||
Lower Cliff | |||||||
5.9 | ★★ Left Out - with David Gibbs | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Did the start right of the big block.
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Sun 6th Jun 2021 - Lac Sam | |||||||
Lower Cliff | |||||||
5.10a 5.10b | ★★ Metamorphic Delicacy - with Bartski | 15m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Might be a 5.10b.
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5.9 | ★★ Left Out - with Bartski | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Some big chunks of rock still needed to be removed but we were able to do it safely and I got a clean FFA. Tricky and interesting!
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5.7 | ★ Giggles - with David Gibbs | 20m, 11 | ★ Good | ||||
Got rid of the worst dirt. I hope it stays cleaner...
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5.8 | ★★ Know When to Hold'em - with Bartski | 25m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Tricky opening move and then fun easy climbing all the way up. My rope did not reach the half-way mark so it's under 30 metres long. Probably about 25m.
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5.7 | Stairway to Hell - with David Gibbs | 22m | Don't Bother | ||||
Needs to be converted to a sport climb. Dirty.
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5.10a | ★★ Mercy Street - with Bartski | 20m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Pulled the opening easily this time even though the jug hold has come off of it!
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5.9 | ★★ Little Lion Face - with David Gibbs | 25m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Toproped this with beta from the FA herself! Fun moves, intricate sequences.
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5.7 | Stairway to Hell - with David Gibbs | 22m | Average | ||||
Okay this was alright on toprope but a bit airy on the top and the bottom is a bit crumbly. Would recommend a helmet. Not that I always wouldn't but here in particular.
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5.8 | ★★ Know When to Hold'em - with David Gibbs | 25m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Challenging beginning where I did a no feet move. Then fun trad following.
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5.7 | ★★ Randy Moss - with David Gibbs | 25m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Really liked this fun line with a dihedral.
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5.7 | ★ Giggles - with David Gibbs | 20m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
The extra bolts are much appreciated. Still a bit of dust and things on it. A good route!
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5.7 | Stairway to Hell | 22m | Don't Bother | ||||
Started the lead on gear... ran out of gear placements, and at 5m run-out (ledge fall), had someone scramble to the top and drop a rope to me. Finished it clean on the TR.
Not currently recommended for leading -- adequate TR< should end up contributing some climbing (and anchor) to a decent sport climb. |
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5.7 | ★ Giggles | 20m, 11 | ★ Good | ||||
More dirt had accumulated making this harder than it needed to be, but Simon brushed it. Again.
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5.8 5.7 | ★★ Randy Moss | 25m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Much better than I remember it being -- solid climbing throughout.
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Sun 16th May 2021 - Lac Sam | |||||||
Lower Cliff | |||||||
5.10b | ★★ Metamorphic Delicacy (Skunked) - with Kate Hunt | 15m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Really fun technical moves. Sustained for the most part.
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5.9 | ★★ Little Lion Face - with Kate Hunt | 25m, 10 | ★ Good | ||||
The first half is really good. The second half is ok.
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5.7 | ★★ Randy Moss - with Kate Hunt | 25m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Found it harder than 5.7, probably because I was hauling up a drill...
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Sun 11th Apr 2021 - Lac Sam | |||||||
Lower Cliff | |||||||
5.10a | ★★ Slab o' Doom 2.0 - with David Gibbs, Su A. Alteen | 25m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Very happy with how the route works out after bolting it. A bit of cleaning required where I didn't anticipate hands would want to go...
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5.7 | ★★ Good Intentions - with David Gibbs, Su A. Alteen | 22m | |||||
If it was clean it would be even more fun...
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5.10a | ★★ Mercy Street - with David Gibbs, Su A. Alteen | 20m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Disappointed I couldn't pull the crux, but surprised how fun the whole thing is. It's convincing me that in terms of consistent and climbs Lower Cliff delivers.
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5.9 | ★ Dave Direct - with David Gibbs, Su A. Alteen | 25m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
I look forward to leading this after I put a couple of bolts in as agreed. YOU HAVE TO GET THE ROPE OVER THE OVERHANG fairly straight up or rope drag will kill you. That makes Dave direct the preferred option for me...
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5.7 | ★★ Good Intentions - with David Gibbs, Simon McMillan | 22m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Toproped this looking at the trad gear, unclipping it and clipping it on the way down as a redirect. Enjoyable climb through part of "Stairway to Hell" and then going right and up to a tree anchor. Cool adventure.
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5.7 | ★ Giggles | 20m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Could use some more bolts, which I expect Simon will do.
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5.8 5.9 | ★ Dave, Dave, Dave of the Jungle | 25m, 2 | ★ Good | ||||
The 5.6 grad on this was a mite mad -- definitely harder and more committing than that. Still a tough and heady lead -- but a couple bolts in the dihedral where I sling the tree (twice) would be a good improvement.
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5.10a | ★★ Slab o' Doom 2.0 | 25m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Red-point for the opening crux... on-sight for the extension.
I was very happy to get the start clean -- though my fingers weren't quite as happy with me. Some small, sharp, crimps. |
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5.7 | ★★ Good Intentions | 22m | ★ Good | ||||
Was planning to re-climb Stairway to Hell, but after pulling the initial section, instead of heading right, I spotted a lovely hand-crack to the left, so I decided to head up to it and climb it. I had...
And the road to hell is paved with... |
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5.10a | ★★ Mercy Street | 20m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
After seeing Simon struggle with the initial pulls over the roof, I didn't think I'd get this -- but apparently I found some beta that worked for me, and got it clean, though not without a struggle.
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5.10a | ★★ Slab o' Doom 2.0 (Slab o' Doom) - with David Gibbs, Simon McMillan | 25m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Did a lead flash of this with draws hung by Simon. Was really impressed by the consistent slabbiness with crimps and an interesting traverse and toprope at the end. Yay!
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5.9 | ★ Dave Direct - with David Gibbs, Simon McMillan | 25m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Enjoyed seconding after David slung trees and completed the original "Dave, Dave" route. Found the direct corner part a bit challenging and did a likely inneficient sequence back to the face.
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5.7 | ★ Giggles - with David Gibbs, Simon McMillan | 20m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Did this on toprope as the warmup due to the runout. Fun moves, and good to work on slab with features.
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5.10a | FA ★★ Mercy Street - with David Gibbs, Simon McMillan | 20m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
FFA. Honored to have completed the first free ascent on sport route today on Simon's project - thanks Simon! Really enjoyed the cruxy overhanging problem before the interesting featured slab.
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★★ Devil's Ladder - with David Gibbs, Simon McMillan | 3m | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Climbed this on Toprope after having climbed the variant of Stairway to Hell. Really enjoyed this challenging and powerful sequence.
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Jul 2014 - Lac Sam | |||||||
Lower Cliff | |||||||
5.7 | Stairway to Hell | 22m | ★ Good | ||||
Lots of loose rocks after the first ledge. Nothing to worry about but still something nice to keep in mind.
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Sun 29th Jun 2014 - Lac Sam | |||||||
Lower Cliff | |||||||
5.6 5.9 | ★ Dave, Dave, Dave of the Jungle | 25m, 2 | ★ Good | ||||
Lead it again -- found another couple gear placements in the (previously thought to be) run-out section. Both small (including a white tri-cam) but ok.
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Sat 7th Jun 2014 - Lac Sam | |||||||
Lower Cliff | |||||||
5.9 5.10a | ★★ Slab o' Doom 2.0 (Slab o' Doom) | 25m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Love this climb. Cant wait to lead it when it gets bolted.
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5.7 | ★ Giggles | 20m, 11 | Average | ||||
In my approach shoes. Makes for a much trickier climb and makes you miss those little edges.
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5.7 | FA ★ Giggles | 20m, 11 | Average | ||||
FA. Some people have complained the 3-4 bolt is a bit far spaced. Its not.
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5.7 | ★ Giggles | 20m, 11 | Average | ||||
top rope for initial bolt placement reconnaissance
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5.7 | Stairway to Hell | 22m | ★ Good | ||||
love this climb
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5.9 | ★ Dave, Dave, Dave of the Jungle (Dave Direct) | 25m, 2 | ★ Good | ||||
after much debate, bolting the dihedral to make this a safer but mixed route is unnecessary in my opinion - official
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5.7 5.8 | ★★ Know When to Hold'em | 25m, 2 | ★ Good | ||||
Lead it again. Gear is finicky at the start, I used a (little) white tri-cam, and not sure the rock is strong either.
Still contemplating a bolt to protect the opening. |
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5.7 | ★ Giggles | 20m, 11 | Average | ||||
Bolted it, let Phil get the FA, then lead it. Goes nicely. Also, chopped the tree branch off the climb on the way down, making it nicer. Climb still needs another top-to-bottom brushing, though.
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Sat 7th Sep 2013 - Lac Sam | |||||||
Lower Cliff | |||||||
5.7 | Stairway to Hell | 22m | Average | ||||
Nice to have a chunk of overhang that's easy but still asks for some big moves. Took my time on the stairway, because I could: the stretch above is far better with all the dirt shoveled out of it. Rock to the left is apparently still loose in spots, as a new climber we had with us found out when he went that way and pulled some down. But the route itself is much cleaner. Stick to the obvious wide slot with the staircase in it. Last climb of the day: I took down the anchor from the NEW bolts.
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5.7 | ★★ Randy Moss | 25m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
This climb gets better and better. Deceptively big and blocky through the start, with fun dihedral work at the top and a big step to the left to get to the anchor (for Dave, Dave.)
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5.9 | ★★ Slab o' Doom | 25m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Embarrassed that I fell on the start: I blame the frog.
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5.8 | ★ Giggles | 20m, 11 | ★ Good | ||||
Still a very fun climb. Wriggling between the tree and the face is a bit awkward but always entertaining.
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5.7 | ★★ (David still needs to name this) - with David Gibbs | 25m, 2 | ★ Good | ||||
This climb has real potential, particularly the crack in the upper half, but it will definitely need some gardening. The rock at the start felt friable: proceed with caution here. After the wide step right, as you start to move up, look out for loose rock in the mini-dihedral to your left. Then just enjoy the heck out of the finger crack that takes you to the top.
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5.9 | ★★ Little Lion Face | 25m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
The start is definitely the hardest bit: from the ground to the first ledge, and then a step up to a big pocket. After that it's all legwork and small fingertip edges.
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5.6 | ★ Dave, Dave, Dave of the Jungle - with David Gibbs | 25m, 2 | Average | ||||
Followed David up this to start the day. More gear keeps presenting itself, which is a good thing. The top dihedral is still a bit run out. WATCH OUT on lowering: there's a notch (at the top of the second big blocky section, I think) that has a nasty tendency to catch the rope and stop it.
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5.7 5.8 | ★★ Know When to Hold'em ((David still needs to name this)) | 25m, 2 | ★ Good | ||||
Even dirty, and digging stuff out of the crack to place gear and hand jams, this was a good climb. I think, with cleaning, it may be a classic. The upper crack section is the first section of good crack climbing I've found at Lac Sam.
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Sun 5th May 2013 - Lac Sam | |||||||
Lower Cliff | |||||||
5.8 | Stairway to Hell | 22m | ★ Good | ||||
Climbed after a full day cleaning the route. Much safer and nicer to climb now that the big block and scree slope have been removed.
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Class 3 | Scramble up | 30m | |||||
Scramble up this a few times, first exploring, then setting a rope to clean up Dave..., then to clean up Little Lion Face.
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5.9 | ★★ Little Lion Face | 25m, 10 | ★ Good | ||||
Climbed it at the end of a cleaning day to get the rope back, yet another dusty climb up it, it seems I always climb it with dust on the holds.
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Sat 1st Sep 2012 - Lac Sam | |||||||
Lower Cliff | |||||||
5.9 Hard | ★★ Little Lion Face | 25m, 10 | ★ Good | ||||
Upper section is a bit less scary with a couple large slabs trundled, but the dirt all over the ledges made the climbing a lot more tiring.
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5.10a | ★★ Little Lion Face | 25m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
The way I started it last time is gone: a hand hold broke on me on the opening move. Instead started to the left of the route and up to the ledge, which went easier anyway. Loose rocks that scared me at the top have now been trundled, exposing an interesting featureless bit and better climbing. Still needs cleaning!
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5.10a | ★★ Slab o' Doom | 25m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
The bottom half is a really lovely set of finicky slab moves with tiny pockets (made a little more interesting by lichen) - the sequence is quite defined. One of the best routes on this face. The top half is a bit unremarkable though.
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5.8 | ★ Giggles | 20m, 11 | ★ Good | ||||
Still needs a ton of cleaning but the rock is really interesting on this route: features you don't find at other nearby areas and a nicely sustained stretch of fairly delicate climbing. As the rock gets cleaned I think it will just get better.
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5.9 | ★ Dave Direct | 25m, 2 | ★ Good | ||||
Got it clean this time! The crack's a bit awkward but a very satisfying pull up out of it and into the rest of the climb.
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5.6 5.9 | ★ Dave, Dave, Dave of the Jungle | 25m, 2 | Average | ||||
For some reason this time up rope drag was so bad it almost stopped me making it to the top: by the top stretch I was barely able to pull up enough to keep moving upward. No idea why - I extended. Maybe the two times I slung the tree? Problem being, not slinging the tree results in serious runout at the top dihedral and beyond (there's theoretically a nut placement in a tiny chink at the back of the dihedral, but it's not secure.)
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Mon 2nd Jul 2012 - Lac Sam | |||||||
Lower Cliff | |||||||
5.9 | ★ Dave Direct | 25m, 2 | ★ Good | ||||
I kick myself about the rest on this one, but it was an overhang and I don't think I was quite committed enough. Next time. A very cool variant. Thinking it would be committing on lead...
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5.8 | Stairway to Hell | 22m | Average | ||||
The 'hell' is the stretch of loose dirt and choss above the stairway - but the stairway is so cool looking and the slab above it a nice long sustained friction climb. Watch out for loose rock, a lot of the lower part seemed a bit rotten. Be careful.
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5.8 | ★ Giggles | 20m, 11 | ★ Good | ||||
Nice, but some of the rock is friable and most of it is very covered with lichen. When cleaned, this will be even more fun. The bit where I had to get under the tree was yogalicious.
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5.8 Hard | ★ Giggles | 20m, 11 | Average | ||||
Some fun climbing on this, a bit trickier with lichen covering the holds, but should be a fine 5.8 when cleaned up a bit. Dunno about gear for leadability -- looks like too long an expanse without any.
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5.8 5.7 | Stairway to Hell - with Phil Price | 22m | Average | ||||
Some interesting stuff, but a lot of dirt part just past the opening section -- might turn into an interesting route if cleaned up.
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5.8 | FA Stairway to Hell | 22m | ★ Good | ||||
First ascent on the bottom half of the climb before dropping the tricams in a fall.
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5.7 | ★★ Randy Moss | 25m, 9 | Average | ||||
Didn't expect this to be as tricky a climb as it is, particularly at the start
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Sat 30th Jun 2012 - Lac Sam | |||||||
Lower Cliff | |||||||
5.10a | FA ★★ Little Lion Face | 25m, 10 | ★ Good | ||||
I started this climb from the shallow diagonal crack just left of a big brown streak. The crux, for me, starts when you get your feet on the shallow ledge and have to move up through a series of small pockets and micro ledges.
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5.7 | ★★ Randy Moss | 25m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
The crux is definitely at the start, with some careful feet and creative thinking needed. Afterwards the dihedral at the top gives you some calf-cramping small feet and fingernail ledges. Satisfying.
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5.6 5.9 | ★ Dave, Dave, Dave of the Jungle | 25m, 2 | Average | ||||
Placed more gear this time than on the last lead - and knew to extend my placements a lot, particularly low below the small roof.
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5.10a Hard | ★★ Little Lion Face | 25m, 10 | ★ Good | ||||
Some interesting stuff at the bottom, but like other climbs, needs more cleaning.
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5.9 | ★ Dave, Dave, Dave of the Jungle (Dave Direct) | 25m, 2 | ★ Good | ||||
A fun variation on Dave, Dave that definitely ups the grade a couple notches, but at least the (new) crux is reasonably well protected.
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5.8 | FA ★ Giggles | 20m, 11 | Average | ||||
So called because I fell when a hold broke off in my hand and I giggled. I also farted and Jessica giggled
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5.10a | ★★ Slab 'o Doom | 25m, 10 | |||||
Thin slabby shit. Really nice tricky climb though
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5.6 5.9 | ★ Dave, Dave, Dave of the Jungle | 25m, 2 | ★ Good | ||||
Run out at the top especially with pro popping beneath me. Sketchy top out too for this reason.
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Sun 14th Aug 2011 - Lac Sam | |||||||
Lower Cliff | |||||||
5.6 5.9 | ★ Dave, Dave, Dave of the Jungle | 25m, 2 | Average | ||||
Watch out for that tree! (Here's your choice: awkward moves to sling it and then get away from it again - it'll be your last easy placement before the runout end - or forego using it and get into the (R) part a little earlier.) I tried to sling it. Quite possibly the goofiest lead I've ever done. But the dihedral beyond was lovely climbing. Extend your placements! This thing zigzags around edges, and rope drag at the end was a killer.
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Sat 16th Jul 2011 - Lac Sam | |||||||
Lower Cliff | |||||||
5.7 | ★★ Randy Moss | 25m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
First time up I tried an alternate start off to the right up the slab - between mossy feet and a broken hold or two it was a far less elegant option than the direct start, which I climbed clean on the second time up. A gorgeous little route. Love the dihedral at the top: it's like it was designed for a fun easy climb, with a couple of generously placed surprising edges.
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5.6 | ★ Dave, Dave, Dave of the Jungle | 25m, 2 | ★ Good | ||||
Climbed it a second time, clean, on top-rope just to have a fun climb, rather than the stressful lead, up the climb. (And, so I could climb it without hauling on the tree.)
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5.7 Hard | ★★ Randy Moss | 25m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
A bit of everything -- slab, face, and dihedral climbing with some interesting moves. Did this on the top rope I set up from the Dave, Dave...lead. Was first up the direct start line, though Jonathan climbed most of the route first. (I started the cleaning on the lower from Dave, Dave...)
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5.10a | ★★ Slab 'o Doom | 25m, 10 | ★ Good | ||||
Dropped a top-rope down this by traversing at the top after climbing Randy Moss. My climbing companions both tried and flailed on this. I expected to fall up it, mostly to retrieve the rope, but ended up sending it completely clean to my and their surprise. A good slab climb on some thin holds. But, it won't surprise me if the rating drops on further cleaning as more holds appear.
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5.6 5.9 | ★ Dave, Dave, Dave of the Jungle | 25m, 2 | ★ Good | ||||
My first ever first ascent. It is quite the heady experience leading off into the unknown. More than just on-sight, but that too.
Lots of cleaning as I went. Protection was mostly pretty good, though I slung the tree that runs close to the dihedral section a couple times, and even used it for some of the climbing. Also had to lower down and clear some gear and pull the rope out of a crack to reduce drag. Some climb up, back down as well -- but no actual falls. An awesome experience.
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Showing all 100 ascents.