Ascents in Antre du Dragon as Onsight

It looks like a crack climb, but much of the meat of the climb is really face climbing around the crack which is too small for real jams, and the crack being used for gear. And, the gear is all sizes -- I placed pieces from a BD C3 #0 through a BD wired hex #10 (red) placed sideways.

The first section, in the scale itself, is superb. Good idea to bring big cams (2-3 x #3 C4).

Well protected, perfect for initiations. Beware the first move if you go straight and the bottom!

Nice climb and good to do mostly on my rack. Ran it out at the top which is always fun

Beautiful climb, flake easily protected with mid to large cams. Fluid all the way through.

Some balance required. Generally very good holds while avoiding being a total jug fest

Some quite burly moves on the lay-back around the edge of the scale, but everything was there, and generally what needed to be done was obvious. Fun, but obvious. Still, a hard lead for a 5.8.

Some lovely thinkey moves, bolts protecting the tricky bits, though the stances for clips sometimes felt precarious. I really enjoyed the climb.