Ascents in Controverse as Onsight

Did the whole thing on gear.

Used a .75 and a .5 on the first crack and then a .3 and nuts for the rest. Would have loved to have more small cams for the second part as there is a ton of placements for them.

I doubt you can fit anything bigger than a 1 anywhere.

I recommend extending anything you place after the first crack.

Due to wetness on parts of this, I just top roped it. The start is weird with a super high first bolt.

Went too far right and finished on the next anchor over, almost 30 m from the start!

Did most of the second section on gear as well

Very nice moves. Mostly slab.

A BIG boulder fell off the route, taking down 4 bolts and the anchor with it. Had to go leftwards to finish in another route.

Really easy climb

Beaux mouvements, bonnes protections. Le relais est par contre très mal positionné; Prévoyez une longue sangle pour éviter une friction terrible, et pour équilibrer les plaquettes.

While most of the route is 5.7, the first and the last moves are way harder, and not that well protected. Delicate positioning!

Definitely worth it's 5.8+ grade, and well-named. It is all about the friction, holds are just a slight dimpling in the rock.

Thinly bolted but easy climbing

The toughest part is the first move: a high step to get onto the slab. After that it's all sweet friction.