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Lower Deck

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Summary

An adventurous cliff located directly below the Upper Deck, down at river level. Some of these climbs are partially under water during the rainiest months.

Access issues inherited from Nanaimo River

Private property. Leave no trace and play a low profile to ensure continued access.

Ethic inherited from Sunny Side

Do not climb here for at least 24 hours after rain. The conglomerate and sandstone absorbs water and is quite fragile when wet.

There are several routes at this crag equipped with top anchor hooks. These are to enable safe and convenient lowering only, and should never be used to top rope through. Never clip the hooks then climb above them, it is dangerous to do so.

Routes

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Grade Route

Leftmost route on the small forested wall on the lower deck. Two bolts then a #1 cam in a conglomerate pod, or throw a sling around one of the namesake chicken heads above the pod. Anchors are just hangers, but there are ring anchors on the next ledge above.

FA: Greg Sorensen

Either start up the bolted series of small ledges on the right or directly up the gear seam of the left, then follow the seam placing more gear to the anchor. Both options go at the same grade.

Rescrubbed Oct/23

FA: Greg Sorensen

The left facing bolted dihedral in the middle of the small forested wall on the lower deck. Stemming is the key on this one.

Rescrubbed Oct/23

FA: Greg Sorensen

The right facing bolted dihedral near the right end of the wall. The last route to dry on this wall, seeping most of the year. This corner is also the garbage chute for the cliff above, so you’ll likely need to clean as you climb.

Rescrubbed Sept/23.

FA: Greg Sorensen

The left facing trad dihedral corner near the right end of the wall. Gear is moderate.

Rescrubbed Sept/23

FA: Greg Sorensen

Farthest right route on the small forested wall on the lower deck. Crux is the bottom half but thin and crimpy throughout.

Scrubbed, missing hangers replaced, and ring anchors installed Sept/23.

FA: Greg Sorensen

The lone route on the upper half of this wall. Climb Screw the Taxman or Shoe Fly By first to get to the belay anchor. The belay can also be reached from the upper approach trail using a hand line. Or, climb everything right from river level in a single 30 meter pitch. Place a #1 cam as the first piece of pro, then all bolts on a technical slab after that.

Rescrubbed Sept/23

FA: Greg Sorensen

The leftmost bolted line in the main Lower Deck area. A strenuous start through a bulging overhang leads to easy climbing until the final move before the chain anchor (crux).

FA: Ryan Kurytnik

This hybrid route uses the first bolt of Fluid Thrill, then the second bolt of Lower Momentum, follows a poorly protected curving flake crack to the left of a bulge, then finishes with the final bolt and top anchors of Fluid Thrill.

Rescrubbed Oct/23

FA: Ryan Kurytnik

After clipping the first bolt on the face, traverse right and follow a narrow groove, with the crux above the second bolt. Flubbing the third clip could result in a ledge fall. There’s been a couple accidents/injuries on this one.

Rescrubbed Oct/23

FA: Ryan Kurytnik

The short, steep face immediately right of Fluid Thrill.

FA: Kent Krauza, 21 Oct 2023

A hidden gem of a trad climb. Delicately come out from under the starting overhang and follow a finger width corner crack that takes gear well. The top tends to be gritty due to runoff from the upper climbing ledge.

FA: Jody Bernst

Same start as Butterscotch Puddin, but shuffle right at the lowest ledge and climb the right arete instead. One bolt near the top, then finishes on shared anchor with Butterscotch Puddin.

Rescrubbed Oct/23

FA: Jody Bernst

The next route to the right of Wishbone. Very hard right off the deck.

FA: Ryan Kurytnik & Dave Brayden

The blocky chimney in the middle of the overhung section. The overhang start is the crux and is unprotected, so use a spotter. Gear is a bit sparse.

Rescrubbed Sept/23.

FA: Jody Bernst

The middle of the three bolted climbs in the overhung section. A difficult start through the overhang, and an insecure mantle near the top.

FA: Ryan Kurytnik

The First 5.12 in Nanaimo

FA: Jody Bernst, 1993

Located on the short wall just as you come up out of the cave along the trail below Pooh Wall area. Climb the dihedral at the left end of the wall, starting from an elevated ledge.

Rescrubbed Nov/23

FA: Greg Sorensen & Donna Sorensen

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Rich Wheater

Date: 2015

ISBN: 978-0-9877796-5-6

With 300 routes, 600 boulder problems and a handful of fine alpine objectives, Vancouver Rock Climbing provides comprehensive coverage of the diverse climbing scene around Vancouver, Canada.

  • Provides detailed coverage of Howe Sound, Caulfeild Sea Cliffs, Cypress Falls Park, Cypress Mountain, Grouse Mountain, Lynn Valley and Deep Cove
  • Includes full-color images and maps, descriptions of conditions and approach notes for each climbing area
  • Each climb description tells you what gear to use, how many bolts there are, a difficulty rating, the pitch length and where to start and end

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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