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The Sandbox Rock climbing 4 routes in sector

Grade context: US
Photos: 7
Ascents: 62

YDS

5.7 5.8 5.9

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Seasonality

Description

A small wall mostly shaded by trees, climbers right of The Playground. This wall will hopefully become a warm up area as many of the potential routes will be easier to moderate and short. Most routes will be slabby in nature. Be careful of loose rock and be especially careful when moving close to the edge if accessing from the top, there is a lot of loose soil and rocks.

Access issues inherited from Red Rock: Pet Wall

Most of the cliff and approach is on crown land. Some of the climbing is on private land -- the owner (John Jeffrey) has, historically, been friendly. "He likes to talk." Please be courteous and friendly if you meet him -- likely running around on a 4-wheeler.

There are, also, usually active nesting Peregrine falcons on the left side of the main cliff (left of the waterfall) -- avoid this area during the spring and summer months.

Approach

From the Playground, follow the cliff along to climber's right, around the corner and start trending uphill. Here you will find The Sandbox. UTM: 18TUR 06133 61194

Ethic inherited from Red Rock: Pet Wall

Top Roping: Most/all routes have top-anchors. Please do not pass rope directly through the fixed gear for top-roping, use your own gear & only use the top-anchors for final lower or rappel.

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Routes

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Start on flakey/blocky holds and move up to a significant horizontal seam. Pull past the seam and on to the upper slab with a varying fingers+/- crack that thins out near the top. Move slightly left to top out, shares bolted anchor with Crack of Time.

FFA: Jeff & A. Frith, May 2020

Same start as Lichen and Vitamin D, then move right up to lone birch halfway up the wall. Move left past the tree and get in to the finger crack that trends left, then zags back right. Finish straight above the tree on face holds to a top out. Bolted anchor shared with Lichen and Vitamin D.

FFA: Corey M, Jeff & Dylan Carson

Left of Just What the Doctor Ordered. Recommended stick clip of the first bolt as the start is the crux. Move up on good holds and pockets to a ledge, clip a bolt. Then up to the anchors via slab features with a crack on the right.

FFA: Jeff, A. Frith & Corey M, 4 Jul 2020

Start is approx 8 m climbers right of Lichen and Vitamin D and is currently the bolted line furthest right at this sector. Get on the slab and slab, slab, slab up the beautifully featured slab to a large bucket where you will find the bolted anchor.

FFA: Jeff, A. Frith & A. Savoie, Jun 2020

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Ontario Climbing: Volume 2 The Northern Escarpment

Author(s): Gus Alexandropoulos, Justin Dwyer

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780995046610

A comprehensive guidebook to Southern Ontario’s famous climbing area, the Niagara Escarpment. This is the first complete guide to the region in almost 25 years. This volume covers the portion of the Escarpment north of Shelburne including the Beaver Valley area and the Bruce Peninsula. Includes an extensively researched history of climbing in the area, and detailed information on over 1000 rock-climbing routes.

Buy

ⓘ

Ontario Climbing: Vol 1 The Southern Escarpment

Author(s): Gus Alexandropoulos, Justin Dwyer

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780995046603

A comprehensive guidebook to Southern Ontario’s famous climbing area, The Niagara Escarpment. This is the first complete guide to the region in almost 25 years. This volume covers areas close to Toronto, including the popular Milton crags. Includes extensively researched history of climbing in the area, and detailed information on over 1,000 rock climbing routes.

Buy

ⓘ