Ascents in Québec as Onsight by Noah Boudreau-Richard

Was still wet and icy. We went up to clean a deathblock from above. Protects well.

Give me more of this please

Climb in one pitch if you have a 70m. Watch out how you protect the end of the second pitch to not risk dislodging a death bloc

Only climbed the first 60m while waiting for "Granuleuse" to clear up

Route is severely under apreciated. Once the start is located, The rest of the routefinding is relatively easy (for the area). We climbed it in 5 fifth-class pitches and one 4th class (6 total). The first half of the climb is very clean. The second half could use a small amount of love but is still clean relative to local standards.

The climb was perfectly dry up to the ramp with two or three soaked moves. Our last pitch (exiting the ramp) was soaking wet (dry lesser quality options seemed available). The grade is consistent with local old school grades.

Fun sequence down low, well protected. Not as sandbagged as other 5.10 in the area

Simul in one pitch with a few 4-5m belays for cruxes. This climb is great. Much much better than the 'sport 400'. 1h55min ground to top. 51min rappel.

Gear spoiler: we brought single from #0 to #3, doubles from 0.4 to #2, triples from 0.5 to #1 with a full set of stoppers and tricams (2 black, two pink and one red). A standard double rack would be fine if climbing normally. I did place the 0.1 and 0.2 in the first pitch. Stoppers would probably work provided some gardening. #4 or #5 might be usefull if planning on doing the p5 dirty off-width variant.

We started way off route on a friction slab with few protections. PA lead a ~200m simul-block to a tree belay. Not recommended. The pitch had few protections with friction and balance moves up to 5.9 over ~10m runouts. We then proceeded to climb 3 70m pitches to the top, swapping leads. We believe to have been back on route for those pitches. 1h51min for the simul-block, and 1h52min for the remaining three pitches. ~1h for the rappel.

Total time car to car for the three climbs: ~12h30min

Very nice climb. Should get more traffic. The poison ivy at the base had us bushwhack the ramp left of the climb until we met with the first bolt. Raph linked the two first pitches using a few long draws to manage drag. He built a tree anchor at the beginning of the "Garden" to avoid horrendous drag. I did a 5m short-rope pitch to move the anchor over to the bolts. Then I linked the last two pitches into an enjoyable 40m pitch. We rappelled into "Microgravité" for an extra pitch.

Bonus pitch! Great climb. Good movement. Many many bolts with mostly secure climbing.

With Raph, he lead the first two pitches as a bloc and I led the last two. He had a lot of drag and a terrible belay stance. We had double ropes and rappelled pitches 2-3-4 in a single rope stretcher to the anchor of P1. We then walked (unroped) to the slung tree and then a single rappel through the trees back to the ground.

Climbed in 5 pitches. Lead all of them. Climbed what is more likely the start of '40 prinptemps' and bypassed a section of the dihedral by climbing clear rock on the right back into the dihedral for the last two pitches. Some loose rocks but not more than should be expected in such adventure terrain. The bushwack took longer than expected, never found the flagged route between 'Les Dalles' and 'Secteur de Droite'. Headlamps were usefull on the way back as well as orientation and terrain navigation skills. Do not under estimate.

Better than the description in rakkup gives it. Placed a #5 because I had it but it's not necessary. Nuts #3/#4 were very useful to protect the crux

Affordable 10+ climb. Multiple crux sections with good rests in between. Well protected. Anchor is on a good (08-2022) bolt and a completely rottent 1/4 inch bolt

Very nice climb with varied styles yet not hard. Start as an OW/chimney style in the diheedral into a nice OW section to finish on a finger crack. #6 could be used if you dont trust old pitons. Alternatively, you can cross right around the pillar to avoid the last bit of the OW section. #5 tipped out. Otherwise, .3-#3 single rack was fine.

Finished on the left chains then traversed back to the real finish.

Climbed with a set of nut, a few tricams and two bolts.

Probably a little easier now that it's cleaner. Good holds, great movement. Probably the best "first lead" of the area.

Technical crux down low whent fine. MP topo said to go left after the third bolt but it should probably 4th now. Great movement wwith exposure seperated by good rests. Longest climb of the area!

Simul in one pitch. Very nice climbing. The starting dihedral and finish crack are the best feature of this climb.

Would benefit from a little brushing but climbing still feel mostly solid. Bring small stoppers. Can also place a few cams under 0.75.

Only climbed P1 and P2. Climbed the left variant start through the overhang. Quite fun but harder (5.10?) leads to the left anchor.

Climbed in one simul pitch. finishing in Astro's second finish crack. Felt much easier than 5.9

Climbed the left and then the right variant. Both felt pretty much similar, the right variation being more fun.

The overhang sequence requires some strenght but is around 5.9+ with the right moves.

Very cool movement! Constant at the grade and good ambiance. Diserves more traffic.

Absolutely beautiful climb. #4 was usefull for the first dihedral. Bring all the 0.4 you have for the face after the big ledge. Managed to get through with only one and a little magic.

Used small gear. Do not under estimate.

Used the anchor on the left at the big ledge for a comfortable belay. We did two raps because the position of the glue-ins at the top make it hard to pull the rope after a full leght rap.

Climbed twice, once with everything and once with only the crack. Probably more like 5.9 if using only the crack.