A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
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Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
David Gibbs Noah Boudreau-Richard Gregory Gibson Ania Jeff Rivard Kexin Huang Anthony Dixon Andrew P isra17 Maxime Brassard
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1.
le Dôme
65 in Crag
- 1.1. épaule gauche 2 in Sector
- 1.2. Tour de controle 10 in Sector
- 1.3. Tache blanche 22 in Sector
- 1.4. Wet Dreams 12 in Sector
- 1.5. King Can / Les Toits / The Roofs / Des toits 19 in Sector
- 2. Index by grade
1. le Dôme 65 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 47.686390, -70.641202
description
A tall, wide, cliff with interesting featured rock, generally less-than-vertical climbing, and frequent left-leaning cracks.
access issues
Climbing is tolerated in Zec des Martres. Climbing in Grands-Jardins is handled in association with the FQME and climbers should have a day- or annual-membership.
Parc/Zec entrance fees would also be payable.
1.1. épaule gauche 2 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 47.684946, -70.645031
description
The left shoulder of the mountain.
approach
From the parking walk farther north along the highway until an obvious trail heads up to the cliff.
descent notes
Rappel or walk-off.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ L'initiation
The first climb done on le Dome.
Climbing
Descent If you need to bail on this climb, there are rappel anchors every 30m so you can make it down with a single 60m rope. It is not recommended to rappel the route if you make it to the top tough since there are often many parties on this climb. You should instead walk leftwards to gain the descent trail back down to the road. Sidenote: If you're faster than other parties on this climb, you can easily pass them without being in their way by literally climbing 5m left or right of them at almost any point. Also plan on linking pitches, it's worth it! 1-2-3 and 4-5-6 are a rope stretchers / few moves of simul (70m rope), 7-8 and 9-10 are easily linked with a 60m FA: Xavis, Garneau & Francois Xavier Garneau, 1970 | 5.6 | 210m, 10 | |||
2 |
La Renaissance
FA: F. X. Garneau, 1973 | 5.4 | 200m |
1.2. Tour de controle 10 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 47.684797, -70.642725
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Bioinorganique | 5.6 | 150m | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
2 |
★★ Dôme Deluxe
Start at the trail from Le Dome parking lot and take every left turn. Once you reach the cliff, walk left along it until the trail ends. This is the left-most climb in this sector. This is a traversing route that angles upwards and left, ending at the anchors for l'Initiation. Walk off using the descent trail for l'Initiation. All gear anchors, except for the l'Initiation anchor at the top of pitch four. | 5.6 | 200m, 4 | |||||
3 | Candide | 5.10 | 150m | |||||
4 |
La Moustique
FA: Pierre Pilon & Stephan Frick, 1973 | 5.6 | 200m | |||||
5 |
Bronco
FA: Gaetan Martineau & Jacques Lamontagne, 1979 | 5.9 | 170m | |||||
6 |
Tour de control
FA: R. Richard, Pierre Pilon & Anita Petitclerc, 1971 | 5.7 R | 200m | |||||
7 |
★★ Passerelle
Probably the most climbed out of all the lines on this wall, yet you'll rarely see a soul besides your party, if not for the occasional shout coming for the next sector.
Descent options
Note: For the first two options, using the "Tache Blanche" trail to return to the parking lot is much easier. Protection Standard rack up to BD#3 FA: Gaetan Martineau & Jacques Lamontagne, 1979 | 5.8 | 170m, 5 | |||||
8 |
Croissant de lune
FA: Jacques Lamontagne & Hugo Drouin, 2015 | 5.9 A1 | ||||||
9 |
Rocky
FA: Normand Lapierre & Marc Beauregard, 1977 | 5.9 | 170m | |||||
10 |
Traction avant
FA: Claude Berube & Dave Cochrane, 1977 | 5.9 | 170m |
1.3. Tache blanche 22 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Mostly Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 47.685640, -70.640815
description
Lovely slabs with many routes having bolted anchors and rappels. Probably the most-climbed sector.
approach
HIke up the trail to the Chalet Dome, then take the obvious trail that heads up to the cliff from behind the chalet.
descent notes
Bring two ropes. Rappels are longer than one rope length! Rappel, usually on bolted rappel anchors.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Isabel
FA: J.C. Trepanier & Normand Tremblay, 1977 | 5.5 | 120m | |||||
2 | Variante d'Isabel | 5.7 PG | 120m | |||||
|
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
3 |
★★★ La Granuleuse
An excellent climb and a great introduction to the cliff. Comfortable bolted belays at each stage, and an easy rappel descent. Anchors were rebooted in 2023. Start on a small bushy ledge below a gap in the tree ledge above, or friction up to this ledge (5.8+ unprotected slab moves, unless you grab some shrubbery.)
FA: Martin Goudreau, 1977 | 5.6 G | 170m, 4, 1 | |||||
4 |
★★ Onglee
FA: Jean-Pierre Cadot & Pierre Desautels, 1972 | 5.7 PG | 160m | |||||
5 |
★★ Voie de Rappel
Goes up an obvious crack that starts in the slabs about 5m above the base.
| 5.7 G | 150m, 3 | |||||
6 |
Temps de Cure
One of the most recent additions to the Dôme's sea of texture slab climbing.
Descent
FFA: P.A. Paquet & Jacques Lamontagne, 2020 | 5.10a PG13/R | 210m, 4 | |||||
7 |
★★★ Tache blanche
FA: Regis RIchard, Jacques Lamontagne & F.X. Garneau, 1975 | 5.10 PG | 140m, 3 | |||||
8 |
Variante du capitaine
FA: Claude Berube & Louis Babin, 1981 | 5.9 X | 80m | |||||
9 |
Fun noir
.75 cam, or stick-clip, or guts to start. | 5.11a | 25m | |||||
10 |
★★ Voie d'evitement
Start over some blocky ledges to a pair of obvious parallel cracks that head up and left.
Rappel down and slightly (climber's) left to a bolted anchor in the middle of the face. From there, again down and left to the anchor at the top of P1 of Voie de rappel. FA: Jacques Lemay & Claude Lavallee, 1972 | 5.7 PG | 120m, 3 | |||||
11 |
★★ Au bouleau mon homme
FA: Alain Simard, 2010 | 5.8 PG | 25m | |||||
12 |
Jeu du gear
Follow a thin crack up and left to a bolt, then continue up and left to the trees. FA: Alain Simard, 2011 | 5.10a G | 25m, 1 | |||||
13 |
Snowmobile
Starts right, heads left with several traverses to eventually finish on "Voie de Rappel". FA: Francois-Guy Thivierge & F. Jacqueline, 1985 | 5.8 PG | 200m | |||||
14 |
★ Patinoire
This climb starts at the top of the bushes right of "Voie d'evitement".
Sidenote: The last pitch is not often climbed even though the first few moves are awesome. Making is through the choss and the trees is a pain. Descent: Rappel down towards the start of "Voie d'evitement" | 5.8 G | 150m, 3 | |||||
15 |
Crazy Carpet
Scramble to the start of "Patinoire". From there, climb straight up and follow the bolts to the left to reach the first anchor of "Patinoire". Good luck! Bolted but some might find it a little runout where good pro would go. Descend by rappeling down to first pitch of "voie d'évitemnent" then to the ground. FA: Claude Gélinas & Marc-André Dussault, 24 Jun 2019 | 5.10c | 35m | |||||
16 |
★ L'attente
From the start of "Patinoire", climb up the first few bolts of "Crazy Carpet" then (where it veers left) you have to options:
Descent: Rappel down the route on the trees. FFA: Alain Simard, 2010 | 5.8 | 35m, 3 | |||||
Gaston Boston SectorThe next four climbs are accessed by scrambling up and right from the start of "Voie d'evitement" until you spot a rope, then follow the rope right across the top of a couple small slabs. The rope ends just below and right of the start of "Gaston boston". | ||||||||
18 |
★★★ Gaston Boston
The obvious crack in the area. | 5.7 G | 40m | |||||
19 |
Perdu dans l'espace
FA: Bernard Landry & Stephane Lapiere, 1989 | 5.10a PG | 40m | |||||
20 |
Nouvelle Vague
FA: Francois Roy & Sylvain Malchelosse, 1986 | 5.11d PG | 60m, 2 | |||||
21 | Venus | 5.8 PG | 20m | |||||
The next two climbs start from the treed ledge at the end of "Gaston Boston", both start left of it. Access by Gaston Boston, Perdu dans l'espace, or pitch 1 of Nouvelle Vague. | ||||||||
23 |
Maree Montante
FA: Eric Tremblay & Alain Simard, 2010 | 5.9 PG | 15m | |||||
24 |
Raz de Maree
FA: Francois Roy & Stephane Lapierre, 1986 | 5.12b PG | 15m |
1.4. Wet Dreams 12 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 47.686379, -70.639114
approach
Bushwhack from the base of Tache blanche sector by heading down and right near the start of Voie d'evitement. Or, directly from Chalet de Dome by continuing up the trail that parallels the face, until you find the next left branch (a few minutes), and take this up to the cliff.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Day Dreams
FA: F.X. Garneau & R. Richard, 1985 | 5.7 | 180m | |||||
2 |
★★★ Wet Dreams
The obvious hand-crack in the sector, left of an obvious low dihedral. 2 long pitches of excellent 5.7 climbing, then a short, messy, 5.9 pitch to a bolted rappel anchor. Climbing
It might be possible to climb the corner (minimal protection, its left side, or to avoid the roof altogether by going around to the right at the boulder. (Update required) Originally, P1 was climbed to the dirt ledge, P2 and P3 were climbed as one pitch using careful rope drag management. Descent Two 60m+ ropes are required.
60m ropes: Also probably possible to rappel to the ground but available information proposes to do a short rappel to the bolted anchor, followed by a full-length rappel to the ground. (Please update) FA: Luc Martin, 1984 | 5.9 PG | 110m, 3 | |||||
3 | ★★ Le diedral | 5.7 | 180m | |||||
4 |
Point G
FA: Alain Simard, 2010 | 5.10b PG | 35m | |||||
5 |
Chapiteau
FA: Alain Simard & Eric Tremblay, 2012 | 5.9 PG | 35m | |||||
6 |
Choupette
FA: Alain Simard & Dominique Lavallee, 2014 | 5.6 G | 130m, 3 | |||||
7 |
Frimousse
FA: Alain Simard & Dan Tremblay, 2011 | 5.6 G | 130m, 3 | |||||
Secteur ÉcoleNew sector developed for groups and courses. Still under development, not all climbs have anchors yet. Top rope access available. | ||||||||
9 | Torteuils ninja | 5.10d PG | 150m | |||||
10 |
Unknown easy route
Slightly harder first move leading to a decently protected low angle crack. | 5.5 | 15m | |||||
11 |
★ La petite ecole
FA: Alain Simard & Eric Tremblay, 2011 | 5.4 G | 15m | |||||
12 |
Terrasse a Lino
FA: Alain Simard & Eric Tremblay, 2011 | 5.7 G | 15m | |||||
13 |
5 a 7
FA: Alain Simard & Eric Tremblay, 2011 | 5.6 | 65m, 2 |
1.5. King Can / Les Toits 19 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing and Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 47.687169, -70.637798
description
Shorter routes, yet much steeper, than much of the rest of the crag.
approach
From the "Dome" parking lot, take the main trail toward 'L'eudore' cottage. Keep going past it util you reach a 90 degree right turn to continue toward the Dome's peak. Continuing straight would lead you to the 'Dome' cottage. You will then first pass a faint trail heading to "Wet Dream" sector, keep going passed it for a few hundred meters to find another faint (flagged) trail on the left. (If you continue on the main trail, it will go up to the peak.)
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
King Can | ||||||||
2 |
Jeux sans frontieres
FA: Pavel Marek & Francois Roy, 1987 | 5.11d | 25m | |||||
3 |
★★★ Gruyere
FA: Alain Henault, 1980 | 5.9 | 22m | |||||
|
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
4 |
Air Voyageur
FA: Pavel Marek & Francois Roy, 1987 | 5.11d PG | 23m | |||||
5 |
★★ Derobade
Large dihedral. | 5.7 G | 25m | |||||
6 |
Zone Z G
FA: Sylvain Malchelosse & Stephane Lapierre, 1986 | 5.7 | 25m | |||||
7 |
Araignee du soir, espoir
FA: Sylvain Malchelosse & Stephane Lapierre, 1986 | 5.9 | 20m | |||||
8 |
★★ La vache folle
FA: Benoit Dubois & Alain Simard, 2014 | 5.9 PG | 28m | |||||
9 |
★★ King Can
FA: Francois Roy & Louis Momeau, 1985 | 5.10c G | 28m | |||||
|
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
Les Toits | ||||||||
11 |
Eclipse
FA: Benoit Dubois, 2013 | 5.10b PG | 28m | |||||
12 |
★★★ Le baiser de l'homme araignee
FA: Francois Roy, THomas Ryan & Stephane Lapierre, 1986 | 5.12a G | 22m | |||||
13 |
Le Cormoran
FA: Julien Bourassa-Moreau, 2015 | 5.13d | 22m | |||||
14 |
La Bibitte
FA: Emille Pellerin, 2016 | 5.13b | 23m | |||||
15 |
Astral
FA: Francois Roy & Stephane Lapierre, 1986 | 5.12c | 23m | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
16 |
Yahaka
With an extension above the anchors: 5.11C 30m. FA: Francois Roy & Alain Henault, 1985 | 5.10d PG | 20m | |||||
17 |
★ Le Paradoxe des formes
Also climbed in the 80s on top-rope. FA: Benoit Dubois, 2015 | 5.10d | 18m | |||||
18 |
La Voie Lactee
FA: Francois Roy & Pavel Marek, 1987 | 5.12c PG | 23m, 2 | |||||
19 |
Libre a toi
FA: Francois Roy & Pavel Marek, 1987 | 5.12a PG | 18m | |||||
20 |
Vie avenir
FA: Benoit Dubois, 2012 | 5.10a PG | 15m, 1 | |||||
21 |
Little Monkey Banana
Same anchor as "Vie avenir". | 5.8 | 15m |