Routes as top rope in Outaouais

About halfway between Broken Corner and "Crack and Block" there is a faint vertical crack splitting the upper part of the face, start on some good holds then work your way up to the crack (the edge of the wide crack on the right is part of "Crack and Block", not this climb). No protection for the first part (the hard part), so top-rope (anchors for Broken Corner) may be preferred.

This is more of a V2 boulder problem, top-roped (because of the tumble-off at the landing) than a climbing route.

After rappelling straight down from the "One Pine" bolted anchors, climbing straight back up the rope route, through trees and bushes.

There is an obvious curving edge in the cliff. Start at the bottom of the right end.

Climb up and right following the curve, then up, then back left following the top of the curving edge. At the end, pull up onto the slanting ledge, then through the upper roof at a blocky section.

1 bolt added as re-direct for TR to keep the rope off the sharp edges.

Climb the slightly smaller holds nearer the right side of the cliff, pulling straight over two small roofs.

Bolt added near top as a TR re-direct.

A wandering exploration up the cliff -- from a convenient tree anchor. Lower sections, probably 5.10ish, after the initial section, about 5.6.

Start about center on the cliff, below the left end of an obvious roof about 15m up. Struggle up through initial ledges, perhaps using a tree, or belayer-assist. Then aiming to head up towards a spot near the left end of the roof, pull through or avoid on the small arete to the left, then up to the top.

Another route. Start close to route one, though stay right of the tree. Pull some thin moves through the initial ledges (5.10ish, probably, if dry & cleaned) then aim for the corner to the right of the roof. Climb the corner, eventually pulling left onto the face above the roof & climb to the top. 5.7ish after the initial ledges.

historical

From TnA wall.

The flat rock has been destroyed by trundling from above, and the start has been re-directed farther right and more direct as the next route. This record maintained for historical reasons.

Looking up at the cliff, to the right of the big right-facing wall, is a pair of bulges that look a lot like breasts, even to the extent of having cleavage in the middle (which "Tits 'n' Ass" climbs through). This route passes to the left of the left breast.

Scramble up to a flat rock sitting between the cliff and a cluster of trees. This makes a good belay stance, and the climb starts just to the right of this. Climb up the right-sloping dihedral ramp, with moss in the middle avoiding the moss, then when it ends, head more straight upwards, aiming to pass just to the left of the left breast, then up from there to the top. Build an anchor from a cluster of trees and a crack in a rock just below the trees (pink tri-cam).

The climbing is easy at the start, but the finish gets a lot more interesting.

historical

From TnA wall.

T'n'A originally avoided the first roof/bulge, starting to the left of the current line, but is no longer climbed that way.

Was on right end of Pink Floyd Wall.

Scramble up right of the overhang, until you reach a ramp. Pull up onto the ramp, climb the ramp, then escape up and over to the left. Up a couple moves will bring you to the base of a pair of dihedrals. Climb the left dihedral, escaping it leftwards near the top, then finish on easier ground.

From "Left Wing" -> "Main Cliff"

not currently a cleaned or well-defined route

Follow a direct line up the cliff where Wandering Frog wanders a bit more, following gear and easier climbing.

From "Left Wing" -> "Main Cliff"

not currently a cleaned or well-defined route

Look for a large detached flake (up to body-width seperated at the top of it) that climbs about 4-5m up from the base. Climb this, then step from it across onto the main face. Climb fairly directly up from there, staying to the left of the large (3m high) completed detached pillar/block about 1/2 way up the face. (Not obviously just-sitting-there from the bottom, but is so as you climb past it.)

This is a rope-stretcher for a 70m rope, but the opening couple of meters or so to the base of the detached flake can be scrambled.

From "Left Wing" -> "Main Cliff"

not currently a cleaned or well-defined route

Climb the face about 5m right of Scintille -- staying right of the large detached block.

From "Left Wing" -> "Main Cliff"

not currently a cleaned or well-defined route

About 5m further over from "One Tree Over".

A short section of good climbing to the right of some dark streaks in the rock.

(Top-rope by re-direction rightwards from the top anchor of Scintille.)

A direct and more refined variation of Weird Crack.

Climb the slab on thin razor edge crimps (possibly covered in white powder) straight up to the 3rd bolt. From there continue up towards the anchor via some easier slab moves and the wide crack on the left side of the windowsill

Currently top-rope but with 2 bolts could be sport.

Follow the crack where it becomes a overhang until you get to the arete. Climb straight up then left to the anchors.

Climb the face just left of the crack. Use many crimps. There is a hidden undercling inside of the crack in the upper left corner of the climb.

Top-rope the arete at the right end of the slab off the "Highball" anchor.

Le milieu du devers. Le relais est 5m plus loin sur la vire. Voie reste à équiper.