Node |
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Outaouais |
L'Érudit
Beau bloc unique sur le sentier LJP à St-André-Avellin. |
L'Érudit |
V1
La page blanche
Ligne directe à partir de l'extrémité droite de la façade principale. |
Eardley Escarpment
Good climbing on solid granite close to Ottawa (Ontario) and Gatineau (Quebec). |
Eardley Escarpment |
Closed Buzz Rock
At about 50km from Ottawa, Buzz Rock is not part of the Eardley Escarpment, but is on another fault line that is farther back in the Gatineau park. The cliff is about 100m long and about 15m high, with vertical faces at both ends seperated by a broken vegetated central part. Buzz rock is seldom visited, but with a sunny hot exposure is good for early or late season climbing. |
Eardley Escarpment Closed Buzz Rock |
Closed Pinnacle Area
Left side of the cliff. |
Eardley Escarpment Closed Buzz Rock Pinnacle Area |
5.4
Flash Over
NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT. https://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing links to https://ncc-website-2.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/Rock-Climbing-in-Gatineau-Park.pdf?mtime=20200113133647 which says, " Creating new routes is not permitted". The Eardley Escarpment is contained in Gatineau Park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing. Cliff-top access is permitted only at Home Cliff and Western Cwm, at other crags climbs must be climbed from ground up. The NCC, land-managers for Gatineau park, have a history of changing their web-page layout making direct-linking risky. As of fall 2018, their statement on climbing is available at: http://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing While the origins of the closure was ecological sensitivity for the Eardley Escarpment (which is on the southern flank of the park), and originated as specific closures in that area, the current phrasing is a list of permitted areas within the park, meaning anything not in that list is, by omission, not open to climbing. |
5.10 X
Rubble Trouble
Climb the protruding face left of the tree. Anchors at the top. Probably best as a top-rope route. |
5.12a
Nudisme
NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT. https://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing links to https://ncc-website-2.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/Rock-Climbing-in-Gatineau-Park.pdf?mtime=20200113133647 which says, " Creating new routes is not permitted". The Eardley Escarpment is contained in Gatineau Park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing. Cliff-top access is permitted only at Home Cliff and Western Cwm, at other crags climbs must be climbed from ground up. The NCC, land-managers for Gatineau park, have a history of changing their web-page layout making direct-linking risky. As of fall 2018, their statement on climbing is available at: http://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing While the origins of the closure was ecological sensitivity for the Eardley Escarpment (which is on the southern flank of the park), and originated as specific closures in that area, the current phrasing is a list of permitted areas within the park, meaning anything not in that list is, by omission, not open to climbing. |
5.9 X
Cosmic Pinch
Start at the right end of the face. Go up a few meters, then around the arete to a lower angle face and the top. Probably best as a top-rope route. |
5.5 X
Quiproquo
NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT. https://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing links to https://ncc-website-2.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/Rock-Climbing-in-Gatineau-Park.pdf?mtime=20200113133647 which says, " Creating new routes is not permitted". The Eardley Escarpment is contained in Gatineau Park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing. Cliff-top access is permitted only at Home Cliff and Western Cwm, at other crags climbs must be climbed from ground up. The NCC, land-managers for Gatineau park, have a history of changing their web-page layout making direct-linking risky. As of fall 2018, their statement on climbing is available at: http://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing While the origins of the closure was ecological sensitivity for the Eardley Escarpment (which is on the southern flank of the park), and originated as specific closures in that area, the current phrasing is a list of permitted areas within the park, meaning anything not in that list is, by omission, not open to climbing. |
Eardley Escarpment Closed Buzz Rock |
Closed Main Face
Right side of the cliff. |
Eardley Escarpment Closed Buzz Rock Main Face |
5.8 X
Perfect Strangers
Recommended for top-rope. Follow the small dihedral immediately left of the main face making a small crux-detour to the main face about half-way up. Finish up the short finger-corner-crack. |
5.7 X
Go-Go Gadget
Another top-rope. This is a nice climb up the vertical face left of Hawk Watch. |
5.4
Hawk Watch
Face climb up to the ledge (crux harder than 5.4) and follow the corner up the middle of the face. |
5.7 PG
Biner Buster Parfait
Climb up to the ledge, then make a few technical moves to gain the arch. Step left onto the steep face which is scaled on unsuspectedly good holds. No pro past the arch. |
5.6
Jagged Edge
Climb up the right side of the featured right arete of the face, pulling around and overhang at mid-height and exiting up a depression with loose blocks. |
Eardley Escarpment |
Closed Erlkoenig
A massive rock formation at the very base of the escarpment, near the western end of the climbable areas, Erlkoenig is one of the bigger cliffs around. This cliff has been closed since 2005, so climbs may be a bit dirty or overgrown. Beware of poison ivy at the base of the cliff. |
Eardley Escarpment Closed Erlkoenig |
Closed West Face
The west face is a large dirty slab split at mid-height be a long overhang. |
Eardley Escarpment Closed Erlkoenig West Face |
5.9
★ Is It Safe to Dance
Start well up the hillside, on the west face of the cliff. Climb diagonally right up to the edge of the long horizontal overhang which splits the face. Move left to gain a set of cracks which are followed to the top. |
5.10 X
Camarades
A top-rope route. |
5.3
Juniper Madness
Wanders up the broken nose of the cliff. Many Juniper bushes. |
Eardley Escarpment Closed Erlkoenig |
Closed South Face
NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT. https://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing links to https://ncc-website-2.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/Rock-Climbing-in-Gatineau-Park.pdf?mtime=20200113133647 which says, " Creating new routes is not permitted". The Eardley Escarpment is contained in Gatineau Park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing. Cliff-top access is permitted only at Home Cliff and Western Cwm, at other crags climbs must be climbed from ground up. The NCC, land-managers for Gatineau park, have a history of changing their web-page layout making direct-linking risky. As of fall 2018, their statement on climbing is available at: http://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing While the origins of the closure was ecological sensitivity for the Eardley Escarpment (which is on the southern flank of the park), and originated as specific closures in that area, the current phrasing is a list of permitted areas within the park, meaning anything not in that list is, by omission, not open to climbing. |
Eardley Escarpment Closed Erlkoenig South Face |
5.7 A1
Arythmia
A great climb that follows a continuous right-slanting crack through a steep face then up a long corner, all the way to the top. Start at a big sloping ledge 2m off the ground.
|
5.9
★ Atlantic City
NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT. https://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing links to https://ncc-website-2.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/Rock-Climbing-in-Gatineau-Park.pdf?mtime=20200113133647 which says, " Creating new routes is not permitted". The Eardley Escarpment is contained in Gatineau Park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing. Cliff-top access is permitted only at Home Cliff and Western Cwm, at other crags climbs must be climbed from ground up. The NCC, land-managers for Gatineau park, have a history of changing their web-page layout making direct-linking risky. As of fall 2018, their statement on climbing is available at: http://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing While the origins of the closure was ecological sensitivity for the Eardley Escarpment (which is on the southern flank of the park), and originated as specific closures in that area, the current phrasing is a list of permitted areas within the park, meaning anything not in that list is, by omission, not open to climbing. |
5.9 A2
★ La Trifide
NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT. https://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing links to https://ncc-website-2.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/Rock-Climbing-in-Gatineau-Park.pdf?mtime=20200113133647 which says, " Creating new routes is not permitted". The Eardley Escarpment is contained in Gatineau Park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing. Cliff-top access is permitted only at Home Cliff and Western Cwm, at other crags climbs must be climbed from ground up. The NCC, land-managers for Gatineau park, have a history of changing their web-page layout making direct-linking risky. As of fall 2018, their statement on climbing is available at: http://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing While the origins of the closure was ecological sensitivity for the Eardley Escarpment (which is on the southern flank of the park), and originated as specific closures in that area, the current phrasing is a list of permitted areas within the park, meaning anything not in that list is, by omission, not open to climbing. |
5.9 A2+
★★ Zeus
NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT. https://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing links to https://ncc-website-2.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/Rock-Climbing-in-Gatineau-Park.pdf?mtime=20200113133647 which says, " Creating new routes is not permitted". The Eardley Escarpment is contained in Gatineau Park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing. Cliff-top access is permitted only at Home Cliff and Western Cwm, at other crags climbs must be climbed from ground up. The NCC, land-managers for Gatineau park, have a history of changing their web-page layout making direct-linking risky. As of fall 2018, their statement on climbing is available at: http://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing While the origins of the closure was ecological sensitivity for the Eardley Escarpment (which is on the southern flank of the park), and originated as specific closures in that area, the current phrasing is a list of permitted areas within the park, meaning anything not in that list is, by omission, not open to climbing. |
A2+
★ L'Etreinte de la Pierre
NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT. https://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing links to https://ncc-website-2.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/Rock-Climbing-in-Gatineau-Park.pdf?mtime=20200113133647 which says, " Creating new routes is not permitted". The Eardley Escarpment is contained in Gatineau Park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing. Cliff-top access is permitted only at Home Cliff and Western Cwm, at other crags climbs must be climbed from ground up. The NCC, land-managers for Gatineau park, have a history of changing their web-page layout making direct-linking risky. As of fall 2018, their statement on climbing is available at: http://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing While the origins of the closure was ecological sensitivity for the Eardley Escarpment (which is on the southern flank of the park), and originated as specific closures in that area, the current phrasing is a list of permitted areas within the park, meaning anything not in that list is, by omission, not open to climbing. |
A2
Envol
NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT. https://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing links to https://ncc-website-2.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/Rock-Climbing-in-Gatineau-Park.pdf?mtime=20200113133647 which says, " Creating new routes is not permitted". The Eardley Escarpment is contained in Gatineau Park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing. Cliff-top access is permitted only at Home Cliff and Western Cwm, at other crags climbs must be climbed from ground up. The NCC, land-managers for Gatineau park, have a history of changing their web-page layout making direct-linking risky. As of fall 2018, their statement on climbing is available at: http://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing While the origins of the closure was ecological sensitivity for the Eardley Escarpment (which is on the southern flank of the park), and originated as specific closures in that area, the current phrasing is a list of permitted areas within the park, meaning anything not in that list is, by omission, not open to climbing. |
A1
Traversee de la Plume
NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT. https://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing links to https://ncc-website-2.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/Rock-Climbing-in-Gatineau-Park.pdf?mtime=20200113133647 which says, " Creating new routes is not permitted". The Eardley Escarpment is contained in Gatineau Park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing. Cliff-top access is permitted only at Home Cliff and Western Cwm, at other crags climbs must be climbed from ground up. The NCC, land-managers for Gatineau park, have a history of changing their web-page layout making direct-linking risky. As of fall 2018, their statement on climbing is available at: http://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing While the origins of the closure was ecological sensitivity for the Eardley Escarpment (which is on the southern flank of the park), and originated as specific closures in that area, the current phrasing is a list of permitted areas within the park, meaning anything not in that list is, by omission, not open to climbing. |
5.8 A1
★ Les Feux de la Rampe
NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT. https://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing links to https://ncc-website-2.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/Rock-Climbing-in-Gatineau-Park.pdf?mtime=20200113133647 which says, " Creating new routes is not permitted". The Eardley Escarpment is contained in Gatineau Park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing. Cliff-top access is permitted only at Home Cliff and Western Cwm, at other crags climbs must be climbed from ground up. The NCC, land-managers for Gatineau park, have a history of changing their web-page layout making direct-linking risky. As of fall 2018, their statement on climbing is available at: http://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing While the origins of the closure was ecological sensitivity for the Eardley Escarpment (which is on the southern flank of the park), and originated as specific closures in that area, the current phrasing is a list of permitted areas within the park, meaning anything not in that list is, by omission, not open to climbing. |
A2
Le Vers Libre
NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT. https://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing links to https://ncc-website-2.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/Rock-Climbing-in-Gatineau-Park.pdf?mtime=20200113133647 which says, " Creating new routes is not permitted". The Eardley Escarpment is contained in Gatineau Park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing. Cliff-top access is permitted only at Home Cliff and Western Cwm, at other crags climbs must be climbed from ground up. The NCC, land-managers for Gatineau park, have a history of changing their web-page layout making direct-linking risky. As of fall 2018, their statement on climbing is available at: http://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing While the origins of the closure was ecological sensitivity for the Eardley Escarpment (which is on the southern flank of the park), and originated as specific closures in that area, the current phrasing is a list of permitted areas within the park, meaning anything not in that list is, by omission, not open to climbing. |
Eardley Escarpment |
Closed John and Ron Cliffs
This is a smallish crag with a few routes that, while remarkably close to some houses is also remarkably hard to find. It does have a couple nice, moderate, crack climbs. Approximate coordinates: 45.543331,-76.011263 |
Eardley Escarpment Closed John and Ron Cliffs |
Closed Forgotten Slabs
On a spring 2012 visit, most everything on this slab looked dirty and not often climbed. |
Eardley Escarpment Closed John and Ron Cliffs Forgotten Slabs |
5.6
Buzzard Breath
NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT. https://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing links to https://ncc-website-2.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/Rock-Climbing-in-Gatineau-Park.pdf?mtime=20200113133647 which says, " Creating new routes is not permitted". The Eardley Escarpment is contained in Gatineau Park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing. Cliff-top access is permitted only at Home Cliff and Western Cwm, at other crags climbs must be climbed from ground up. The NCC, land-managers for Gatineau park, have a history of changing their web-page layout making direct-linking risky. As of fall 2018, their statement on climbing is available at: http://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing While the origins of the closure was ecological sensitivity for the Eardley Escarpment (which is on the southern flank of the park), and originated as specific closures in that area, the current phrasing is a list of permitted areas within the park, meaning anything not in that list is, by omission, not open to climbing. |
5.5
Pockets
NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT. https://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing links to https://ncc-website-2.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/Rock-Climbing-in-Gatineau-Park.pdf?mtime=20200113133647 which says, " Creating new routes is not permitted". The Eardley Escarpment is contained in Gatineau Park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing. Cliff-top access is permitted only at Home Cliff and Western Cwm, at other crags climbs must be climbed from ground up. The NCC, land-managers for Gatineau park, have a history of changing their web-page layout making direct-linking risky. As of fall 2018, their statement on climbing is available at: http://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing While the origins of the closure was ecological sensitivity for the Eardley Escarpment (which is on the southern flank of the park), and originated as specific closures in that area, the current phrasing is a list of permitted areas within the park, meaning anything not in that list is, by omission, not open to climbing. |
5.9
Scar Face
NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT. https://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing links to https://ncc-website-2.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/Rock-Climbing-in-Gatineau-Park.pdf?mtime=20200113133647 which says, " Creating new routes is not permitted". The Eardley Escarpment is contained in Gatineau Park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing. Cliff-top access is permitted only at Home Cliff and Western Cwm, at other crags climbs must be climbed from ground up. The NCC, land-managers for Gatineau park, have a history of changing their web-page layout making direct-linking risky. As of fall 2018, their statement on climbing is available at: http://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing While the origins of the closure was ecological sensitivity for the Eardley Escarpment (which is on the southern flank of the park), and originated as specific closures in that area, the current phrasing is a list of permitted areas within the park, meaning anything not in that list is, by omission, not open to climbing. |
5.4
Crocodile Rock
Follow the right-curving feature up the slab and exit at the back of the block in the right-facing dihedral. |
5.6
Firefox
NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT. https://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing links to https://ncc-website-2.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/Rock-Climbing-in-Gatineau-Park.pdf?mtime=20200113133647 which says, " Creating new routes is not permitted". The Eardley Escarpment is contained in Gatineau Park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing. Cliff-top access is permitted only at Home Cliff and Western Cwm, at other crags climbs must be climbed from ground up. The NCC, land-managers for Gatineau park, have a history of changing their web-page layout making direct-linking risky. As of fall 2018, their statement on climbing is available at: http://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing While the origins of the closure was ecological sensitivity for the Eardley Escarpment (which is on the southern flank of the park), and originated as specific closures in that area, the current phrasing is a list of permitted areas within the park, meaning anything not in that list is, by omission, not open to climbing. |
5.8
Between the Sheets
NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT. https://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing links to https://ncc-website-2.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/Rock-Climbing-in-Gatineau-Park.pdf?mtime=20200113133647 which says, " Creating new routes is not permitted". The Eardley Escarpment is contained in Gatineau Park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing. Cliff-top access is permitted only at Home Cliff and Western Cwm, at other crags climbs must be climbed from ground up. The NCC, land-managers for Gatineau park, have a history of changing their web-page layout making direct-linking risky. As of fall 2018, their statement on climbing is available at: http://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing While the origins of the closure was ecological sensitivity for the Eardley Escarpment (which is on the southern flank of the park), and originated as specific closures in that area, the current phrasing is a list of permitted areas within the park, meaning anything not in that list is, by omission, not open to climbing. |
5.6
Sudden Impact
NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT. https://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing links to https://ncc-website-2.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/Rock-Climbing-in-Gatineau-Park.pdf?mtime=20200113133647 which says, " Creating new routes is not permitted". The Eardley Escarpment is contained in Gatineau Park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing. Cliff-top access is permitted only at Home Cliff and Western Cwm, at other crags climbs must be climbed from ground up. The NCC, land-managers for Gatineau park, have a history of changing their web-page layout making direct-linking risky. As of fall 2018, their statement on climbing is available at: http://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing While the origins of the closure was ecological sensitivity for the Eardley Escarpment (which is on the southern flank of the park), and originated as specific closures in that area, the current phrasing is a list of permitted areas within the park, meaning anything not in that list is, by omission, not open to climbing. |
A2
Shark Attack
NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT. https://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing links to https://ncc-website-2.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/Rock-Climbing-in-Gatineau-Park.pdf?mtime=20200113133647 which says, " Creating new routes is not permitted". The Eardley Escarpment is contained in Gatineau Park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing. Cliff-top access is permitted only at Home Cliff and Western Cwm, at other crags climbs must be climbed from ground up. The NCC, land-managers for Gatineau park, have a history of changing their web-page layout making direct-linking risky. As of fall 2018, their statement on climbing is available at: http://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing While the origins of the closure was ecological sensitivity for the Eardley Escarpment (which is on the southern flank of the park), and originated as specific closures in that area, the current phrasing is a list of permitted areas within the park, meaning anything not in that list is, by omission, not open to climbing. |
A2
Nervous Laughter
NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT. https://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing links to https://ncc-website-2.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/Rock-Climbing-in-Gatineau-Park.pdf?mtime=20200113133647 which says, " Creating new routes is not permitted". The Eardley Escarpment is contained in Gatineau Park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing. Cliff-top access is permitted only at Home Cliff and Western Cwm, at other crags climbs must be climbed from ground up. The NCC, land-managers for Gatineau park, have a history of changing their web-page layout making direct-linking risky. As of fall 2018, their statement on climbing is available at: http://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing While the origins of the closure was ecological sensitivity for the Eardley Escarpment (which is on the southern flank of the park), and originated as specific closures in that area, the current phrasing is a list of permitted areas within the park, meaning anything not in that list is, by omission, not open to climbing. |
5.8
The Swings the Thing
NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT. https://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing links to https://ncc-website-2.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/Rock-Climbing-in-Gatineau-Park.pdf?mtime=20200113133647 which says, " Creating new routes is not permitted". The Eardley Escarpment is contained in Gatineau Park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing. Cliff-top access is permitted only at Home Cliff and Western Cwm, at other crags climbs must be climbed from ground up. The NCC, land-managers for Gatineau park, have a history of changing their web-page layout making direct-linking risky. As of fall 2018, their statement on climbing is available at: http://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing While the origins of the closure was ecological sensitivity for the Eardley Escarpment (which is on the southern flank of the park), and originated as specific closures in that area, the current phrasing is a list of permitted areas within the park, meaning anything not in that list is, by omission, not open to climbing. |
5.4
Say Something Nice at the Funeral
NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT. https://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing links to https://ncc-website-2.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/Rock-Climbing-in-Gatineau-Park.pdf?mtime=20200113133647 which says, " Creating new routes is not permitted". The Eardley Escarpment is contained in Gatineau Park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing. Cliff-top access is permitted only at Home Cliff and Western Cwm, at other crags climbs must be climbed from ground up. The NCC, land-managers for Gatineau park, have a history of changing their web-page layout making direct-linking risky. As of fall 2018, their statement on climbing is available at: http://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing While the origins of the closure was ecological sensitivity for the Eardley Escarpment (which is on the southern flank of the park), and originated as specific closures in that area, the current phrasing is a list of permitted areas within the park, meaning anything not in that list is, by omission, not open to climbing. |
Eardley Escarpment Closed John and Ron Cliffs |
Closed Square Buttress
The clear, right-facing square buttress in the line of relief that contains Ron & John cliffs. This has most of the good climbs. |
Eardley Escarpment Closed John and Ron Cliffs Square Buttress |
5.6
★ Hex Without
The obivous chimney/crack on the side of the buttress facing the Ottawa river. |
A2
Dogleg
NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT. https://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing links to https://ncc-website-2.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/Rock-Climbing-in-Gatineau-Park.pdf?mtime=20200113133647 which says, " Creating new routes is not permitted". The Eardley Escarpment is contained in Gatineau Park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing. Cliff-top access is permitted only at Home Cliff and Western Cwm, at other crags climbs must be climbed from ground up. The NCC, land-managers for Gatineau park, have a history of changing their web-page layout making direct-linking risky. As of fall 2018, their statement on climbing is available at: http://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing While the origins of the closure was ecological sensitivity for the Eardley Escarpment (which is on the southern flank of the park), and originated as specific closures in that area, the current phrasing is a list of permitted areas within the park, meaning anything not in that list is, by omission, not open to climbing. |
A2
Ethereal Realm
NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT. https://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing links to https://ncc-website-2.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/Rock-Climbing-in-Gatineau-Park.pdf?mtime=20200113133647 which says, " Creating new routes is not permitted". The Eardley Escarpment is contained in Gatineau Park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing. Cliff-top access is permitted only at Home Cliff and Western Cwm, at other crags climbs must be climbed from ground up. The NCC, land-managers for Gatineau park, have a history of changing their web-page layout making direct-linking risky. As of fall 2018, their statement on climbing is available at: http://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing While the origins of the closure was ecological sensitivity for the Eardley Escarpment (which is on the southern flank of the park), and originated as specific closures in that area, the current phrasing is a list of permitted areas within the park, meaning anything not in that list is, by omission, not open to climbing. |
5.11c X
Gone Tomorrow
A direct start to Here Today. Start at the bottom of the steep arete, which is followed all the way to the top. Thin, scarce protection. Get a spot at the start. |
5.9 R
Here Today
Start up "Fire Free", traverse across to the arete, then finish up the arete. |
5.5
★★ Fire Free
The obvious clean crack on the side of the buttress facing the gully. Finishes on a two-bolt (with rap rings) anchor shared with "Johnny Rock". |
5.9
★★ Johnny Rock
The left-curving thin crack 2m to the right of "Fire Free", all the way to the top. Finishes on a 2-bolt (with rap rings) anchor shared with "Fire Free". |
5.8
★★ Grolsch
The irregular crack 3m right of Johnny Rock. Ends in a two-bolt anchor with rap rings. |
5.9
(unnamed)
NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT. https://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing links to https://ncc-website-2.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/Rock-Climbing-in-Gatineau-Park.pdf?mtime=20200113133647 which says, " Creating new routes is not permitted". The Eardley Escarpment is contained in Gatineau Park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing. Cliff-top access is permitted only at Home Cliff and Western Cwm, at other crags climbs must be climbed from ground up. The NCC, land-managers for Gatineau park, have a history of changing their web-page layout making direct-linking risky. As of fall 2018, their statement on climbing is available at: http://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing While the origins of the closure was ecological sensitivity for the Eardley Escarpment (which is on the southern flank of the park), and originated as specific closures in that area, the current phrasing is a list of permitted areas within the park, meaning anything not in that list is, by omission, not open to climbing. |
5.9
Harum Scarum
NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT. https://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing links to https://ncc-website-2.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/Rock-Climbing-in-Gatineau-Park.pdf?mtime=20200113133647 which says, " Creating new routes is not permitted". The Eardley Escarpment is contained in Gatineau Park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing. Cliff-top access is permitted only at Home Cliff and Western Cwm, at other crags climbs must be climbed from ground up. The NCC, land-managers for Gatineau park, have a history of changing their web-page layout making direct-linking risky. As of fall 2018, their statement on climbing is available at: http://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing While the origins of the closure was ecological sensitivity for the Eardley Escarpment (which is on the southern flank of the park), and originated as specific closures in that area, the current phrasing is a list of permitted areas within the park, meaning anything not in that list is, by omission, not open to climbing. |
5.8
French Kiss
NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT. https://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing links to https://ncc-website-2.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/Rock-Climbing-in-Gatineau-Park.pdf?mtime=20200113133647 which says, " Creating new routes is not permitted". The Eardley Escarpment is contained in Gatineau Park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing. Cliff-top access is permitted only at Home Cliff and Western Cwm, at other crags climbs must be climbed from ground up. The NCC, land-managers for Gatineau park, have a history of changing their web-page layout making direct-linking risky. As of fall 2018, their statement on climbing is available at: http://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing While the origins of the closure was ecological sensitivity for the Eardley Escarpment (which is on the southern flank of the park), and originated as specific closures in that area, the current phrasing is a list of permitted areas within the park, meaning anything not in that list is, by omission, not open to climbing. |
5.6
Know Your Kemistry
NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT. https://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing links to https://ncc-website-2.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/Rock-Climbing-in-Gatineau-Park.pdf?mtime=20200113133647 which says, " Creating new routes is not permitted". The Eardley Escarpment is contained in Gatineau Park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing. Cliff-top access is permitted only at Home Cliff and Western Cwm, at other crags climbs must be climbed from ground up. The NCC, land-managers for Gatineau park, have a history of changing their web-page layout making direct-linking risky. As of fall 2018, their statement on climbing is available at: http://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing While the origins of the closure was ecological sensitivity for the Eardley Escarpment (which is on the southern flank of the park), and originated as specific closures in that area, the current phrasing is a list of permitted areas within the park, meaning anything not in that list is, by omission, not open to climbing. |
5.10a
Gnome Man's Land
NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT. https://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing links to https://ncc-website-2.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/Rock-Climbing-in-Gatineau-Park.pdf?mtime=20200113133647 which says, " Creating new routes is not permitted". The Eardley Escarpment is contained in Gatineau Park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing. Cliff-top access is permitted only at Home Cliff and Western Cwm, at other crags climbs must be climbed from ground up. The NCC, land-managers for Gatineau park, have a history of changing their web-page layout making direct-linking risky. As of fall 2018, their statement on climbing is available at: http://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing While the origins of the closure was ecological sensitivity for the Eardley Escarpment (which is on the southern flank of the park), and originated as specific closures in that area, the current phrasing is a list of permitted areas within the park, meaning anything not in that list is, by omission, not open to climbing. |
Eardley Escarpment |
Closed Black Bear Slab
A small, but elegant, slab near the trail to Ron and John cliffs. This cliff has been closed by the NCC since 2005 and so may be dirty and not much climbed. |
Eardley Escarpment Closed Black Bear Slab |
5.1
Bearly
Follow the left arete. Barely a route! |
5.3
Bear Bates
Follow the short crack system at the left end of the cliff. |
5.8 X
★ Ursus Pro Minimus
This route takes the slab between Bear Bates and The Bear's Crack. Beatiful, challenging slab climbing, but not recommended as a lead. |
5.5
★ The Bear's Crak
The small rightward slanting crack that starts at the centre of the cliff. |
5.3
Right Paw
Left of the Left Paw! Up a set of faint cracks to the top. |
5.1
Left Paw
Right of the Right Paw! The obvious vegetated left-slanting wide crack. |
5.2
Club Route
Follow the right arete and exit via the face fo the top block. |
5.8
The Bear's Den Overhang
A micro crack-route located on a small undercut buttress a few meters to the right of the slab. |
Eardley Escarpment |
Western Cwm
The Western Cwm is a group of cliffs around a cwm, containing a mixture of easy trad and sport up to some very hard sport. The northern (left) side of the Cwm is currently open to climbing for most of the cliffs. Some cliffs in the center have been closed since about 2005. The southern (right) side of the Cwm has recently (fall 2010) been closed to climbing by the NCC. |
Eardley Escarpment Western Cwm |
Closed Baby Pneu
This sector is currently (as of fall 2010) closed by the NCC. Baby Pneu is a small cliff located below the Reaper Buttress area and facing a different direction from the rest of this side of the cwm. There is a small stream running along much of the base. The cliff has two faces at right angles (arrete) to each other, with the stream running down along side the left most of the two faces. This is a shadowed, and often damp, cliff. It has a number of short, but hard, sport climbs. |
Eardley Escarpment Western Cwm Closed Baby Pneu |
5.11a
Slip Stream
At the upper left end of the cliff is a small steep face. Start on a boulder in the middle of the stream. Anchors at top. |
5.10d
(Unknown)
Anchors at top. |
5.12c
★★★ Wish You Were Here
Climb thin cracks and small holds to the anchors. |
5.13c
Dragon's Breath
Climb up a set of thin vertical cracks right of Wish You Were Here. Anchors. |
5.11b
Beta Boys
Step off the huge boulder, and up around the right side of an overhanging block, then straight to the top. Anchors. |
5.10d
★★ Dead Men Don't Whine
An elegant line around a stepe arete, then up a set of thin cracks to the top. |
The Vertical Highway
The near-blank face between Dead Men and Bitter Fingers |
5.6
Bitter Fingers
Up the obvious cracked depression. |
5.10a
★★ Sexy White Pimp Cars
Climb the bolts to the right of the Bitter Fingers crack. September 2012, bolts chopped. Route takes very solid gear. |
Eardley Escarpment Western Cwm |
Closed Burple Buttress
Directly facing Slip Stream's face (on Baby Pneu) and below North Wall is this rarely climbed rounded buttress with 4 short routes. This area has been closed by the NCC as of fall 2010. |
Eardley Escarpment Western Cwm Closed Burple Buttress |
5.3 X
Water Fact
On the left side of the buttress is a short, clean face. Climb this up the left. No protection. |
5.6
Moonlight Delight
Climb the right side of the same face as Water Fact, finishing up a small right-facing corner. |
5.4
(unknown)
Start at some cracks just left of the arete and climb up and past some vertical flake cracks, to the top. |
5.3
Glossets
Climb up some blocks to a thin crack in the slab. Climb up a thick right-facing flake to the top. |
Eardley Escarpment Western Cwm |
North Wall
A rounded slabby face with several cracks up it. This has several easy trad routes that take protection easily and is often the place people come to learn trad in the area. |
Eardley Escarpment Western Cwm North Wall |
5.4
The Canopy
The left most crack on North Wall, and a large one. It tends to be quite dirty as well. Not often climbed, and without anchors at the top. |
5.4
Bunny Corner
Start up as per The Canopy, and about 1/2 way branch right and climb up the corner. Also tends to be dirty. |
5.4
★ Still Another Climb
Start at the same place as The Canopy - on the left side of the flake near the base of the cliff. Do a rising traverse rightwards following the the obvious long diagonal crack. |
5.5
★ Route A
Start at the flaring narrow chimney, and climb past this (low crux) to a rock spike, then up an obvious series of cracks to 2 bolts for anchors at the top. |
5.4
★★ Route B
Start below the large thin flake. (It feels really solid, but I wouldn't put pro under it, it is large and thin.) Follow the obvious large crack to 2 bolts for anchors. Takes protection really easily -- a good route for a first trad lead. |
5.5
★★ Route C
Start at a small corner a bit up and to the right of Route B, follow the thin crack to a corner in the upper part of the cliff, then on to 2 bolts as anchors. |
5.1
★ Route D
Even further up and right, there is another crack angling slightly right as it goes up past a tree. Not often climbed. |
Eardley Escarpment Western Cwm |
Reaper Buttress
The buttress down and around the corner from Spindrift Wall. |
Eardley Escarpment Western Cwm Reaper Buttress |
5.5
The other dihedral
Climb the shallow dihedral and face left of Mr Toady's Dihdral to the top, then traverse to its anchors. |
5.8
★ Mr Toady's Dihedral
The obvious short dihedral. Anchors. The first bolt really belongs to "Krispy Kreme", and there's good gear at the start, so no need to clip that bolt. Steeper than it looks. |
5.11a
★ Krispy Kreme
Climb the arete just to the right of Mr Toady's Dihedral. |
5.9
★ The Reaper
Start below a smooth overhanging wall that is split by a thin crack, with a right-ascending ramp at the bottom. Warning: ground-fall potential clipping 2nd bolt -- don't miss the clip. |
5.5 PG
★ Jugness
Climb the wall to the right of The Reaper, going over a small overhang above a small dihedral. Lots of jugs, but bad pro for the upper half. (PG) |
Eardley Escarpment Western Cwm |
Spindrift Wall
A tall (25m) slabby cliff, water-stained black in places. Has several easy and closely bolted routes on it -- making it a good place to learn or do someone's first sport climbs. |
Eardley Escarpment Western Cwm Spindrift Wall |
5.6
★★ Bolt Line 1
The left-most bolt line on Spindrift wall. Opening moves to first bolt are a bit intimidating (consider a stick-clip), but real crux is when the route gets thin between bolts 2 and 3. |