Nodes in Outaouais

Start on the crack between Bolt Line #1 and Ground Zero. Follow this crack until it peters out, then straight towards the top. Either top-out, or traverse left to the anchors on "Bolt Route 1".

This was originally graded 5.1 (Climbing on the Eardley Escarpment, Yann Troutet), but it is defintely no easier than "Ground Zero" or "Bolt Line 3".

The middle bolt line up the cliff.

Formerly an X trad route, now a very closely bolted sport route. This is a good lead for a beginning lead climber.

A couple meters left of "Bolt Line 3" is a small right-facing corner with a crack at the back. Start up this corner following it until it peters out, then angle gently up and left as gear allows. Finish by stepping left onto the ledge just below the anchors for "Ground Zero", pull up and right, then finish at the "Ground Zero" anchors.

(This climb is not described in a guide book from 2001 (which references works back to 1991), nor in more recent books/updates. It seems likely it has been climbed at some point in the last 30+ years of climbing on the escarpment, though the state of the moss and dirt in the cracks suggests not recently.)

The 3rd bolt line on Spindrift Wall. Climb the face just outside the corner that is Arachnophobia.

Start in the mouth of the large cave, about 2m left of the jumble of rocks. Follow the obvious zig-zag crack under large solid flakes until it ends. At some point move left onto the main face, and continue up towards the cedar tree at the top of the cliff, stepping left right at the end to use the anchors for Bolt Line #3.

The short wall to the right of the cave.

A real classic. Climb the overhanging arete up the right side of the cave, then up onto the face and to the anchors.

Climb up a thin crack and then move right to a bolt. Climb up past another bolt to the anchors.

The obvious twisting off-width crack to the right of the cave. Anchors.

The grade has inspired much debate.

Climb the short face right of Neruda, following a small left-facing arch and pulling over this to the top. "Pro is scarce, scary, and scabrous." PG. Not often climbed.

Technically not in the Cwm, this small wall is located above and behind the chimney-cave found on the right side of Cave Wall. Access the base of the cliff by climbing up the chimney or from the top of the neighbouring walls. Split by three obvious vertical cracks, the face overhangs severely for the first few meters then rounds off to a slab at its top.

This area has been closed by the NCC since 2005.

Aid your way up the obvious crack on the left side of the face.

Very sporty, yet naturally protected. Follow the overhanging crack up the middle of the face past two small roofs, all the way to a bolt below the slab finish at the top.

Pull up onto an undercut face and move right to an obvious short dihedral. Follow this and exit via slabs above it to the top.

A very rounded face 15 meters right of Up n'Over, and directly above Short Wall. It has four lines (hence the name): both aretes and two lines up the face. This area has been closed by the NCC since 2005.

NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT.

https://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing links to https://ncc-website-2.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/Rock-Climbing-in-Gatineau-Park.pdf?mtime=20200113133647 which says, " Creating new routes is not permitted".

The Eardley Escarpment is contained in Gatineau Park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing.

Cliff-top access is permitted only at Home Cliff and Western Cwm, at other crags climbs must be climbed from ground up.

The NCC, land-managers for Gatineau park, have a history of changing their web-page layout making direct-linking risky. As of fall 2018, their statement on climbing is available at: http://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing

While the origins of the closure was ecological sensitivity for the Eardley Escarpment (which is on the southern flank of the park), and originated as specific closures in that area, the current phrasing is a list of permitted areas within the park, meaning anything not in that list is, by omission, not open to climbing.

Top-rope the general line of the right arete of the face. Easier further right.

A small near-vertical face with two obvious crack lines. Located just left and below Bird's Nest Buttress, it is also accessible from Cave Wall.

This area has been closed by the NCC since 2005.

Follow the large, broken crack.

A challenging, concentrated route well worth doing. Follow the parallel crack to the top.

An unprotected face climb. The first ascent of the route was actually a street-shoe warm-up session that went a bit further than first intended.

An impressive buttress with large roofs and numerous cracks. The main feature is a huge roof at the very base of the cliff.

Raven's have been known to nest here, and the cliff should be avoided during nesting season (early March to late August).

This area has been closed by the NCC since 2005.

Make your way up a crack through the left end of the roof. Truly, truly gnarly! Pass the second roof to the left via a small notch left again. Large slinged pine tree at the top.

Start at the lip of the overhang at the obvious crack in the middle of the roof. Reach the first hold (step on a stone if necessary), and pull your way up to establish your feet on the face. Truly radical. (The crack on the roof at the bottom has been climbed on aid.)

Start at the right end of the roof. Make some steep moves to reach a wide crack leading up to another roof. Skirt the roof to the left following a crack to a ledge (huge nest) and to the large slinged pine tree at the top.

Start at a small left-facing corner. Climb this to the vegetated ledge. Move up underneath a roof, then go left and up past the overhang. Follow a thin crack above the overhang until it becomes imperative to join Rock Heads (at the nest) for the last few moves.

Named for the colour of the rock, this is the long wall at the back of the Cwm, facing towards the valley. The left end has four intermediate routes while the right has some more difficult sport climbs. The center has one old and one new, crossing each other.

This area has been closed by the NCC since 2005.

Directly up the short left face of Mouse Eater, past two bolts.

Step onto the face from a boulder. Climb up and right into the corner. Follow the corner past two old in-situ pins, to the top.

Climb up to a ramp which is followed rightwards out to the top.

Climb the large easy-angled ramp all the way to its rightmost tip, then exit straight up the face.

Start at the left end of the roof, climb cracks to gain some bulges in the upper part. Small pro. Slinged tree at the top.

Climb up the rightmost of cracks leading to the left end of the long overhang (past the first 2 bolts of Dreams). Pull around this and follow a right-leaning vegetated ramp to the upper right of the cliff.

An unfinished project (bolts still missing in the upper part). Anchors at top.

NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT.

https://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing links to https://ncc-website-2.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/Rock-Climbing-in-Gatineau-Park.pdf?mtime=20200113133647 which says, " Creating new routes is not permitted".

The Eardley Escarpment is contained in Gatineau Park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing.

Cliff-top access is permitted only at Home Cliff and Western Cwm, at other crags climbs must be climbed from ground up.

The NCC, land-managers for Gatineau park, have a history of changing their web-page layout making direct-linking risky. As of fall 2018, their statement on climbing is available at: http://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing

While the origins of the closure was ecological sensitivity for the Eardley Escarpment (which is on the southern flank of the park), and originated as specific closures in that area, the current phrasing is a list of permitted areas within the park, meaning anything not in that list is, by omission, not open to climbing.

Make your way up to the crack and move up the steepening rock over progressively harder terrain to the anchors beneath a vegetated ledge.

A good short route at the right end of the face. Cruxy start.

The Upper Slabs area a series of extensive slabs which run east for a few hundred meters starting atop the Red Wall. Much of the slabs are unattractive for climbing. The routes are located in three seperate areas. The left part is the slab facing Shpinava Wall and above the Red Wall.

This area has been closed by the NCC since 2005.

Left of the line of bolts for Pascal's Hole. Climb straight up.

An obvious huge roof can be seen above this climb. The route follows a diagonal line of bolts up to a ledge and small tree. Notice "Pascal hole" on the way up.

Start at the base of the slab, below and slightly right of the tree at the top of Pascal's Hole. Climb up to the tree.

From the tree at the top of Pascal's Hole, traverse left for about 10m, then go up, passing an overhang by a small corner, and to the top. (Essentially a 2nd pitch to Pascal's Hole.)

On the way to the right part of the slabs, a small area of rather unattractive slabs can be seen to the left.

This area has been closed by the NCC since 2005.

NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT.

https://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing links to https://ncc-website-2.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/Rock-Climbing-in-Gatineau-Park.pdf?mtime=20200113133647 which says, " Creating new routes is not permitted".

The Eardley Escarpment is contained in Gatineau Park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing.

Cliff-top access is permitted only at Home Cliff and Western Cwm, at other crags climbs must be climbed from ground up.

The NCC, land-managers for Gatineau park, have a history of changing their web-page layout making direct-linking risky. As of fall 2018, their statement on climbing is available at: http://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing

While the origins of the closure was ecological sensitivity for the Eardley Escarpment (which is on the southern flank of the park), and originated as specific closures in that area, the current phrasing is a list of permitted areas within the park, meaning anything not in that list is, by omission, not open to climbing.

NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT.

https://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing links to https://ncc-website-2.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/Rock-Climbing-in-Gatineau-Park.pdf?mtime=20200113133647 which says, " Creating new routes is not permitted".

The Eardley Escarpment is contained in Gatineau Park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing.

Cliff-top access is permitted only at Home Cliff and Western Cwm, at other crags climbs must be climbed from ground up.

The NCC, land-managers for Gatineau park, have a history of changing their web-page layout making direct-linking risky. As of fall 2018, their statement on climbing is available at: http://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing

While the origins of the closure was ecological sensitivity for the Eardley Escarpment (which is on the southern flank of the park), and originated as specific closures in that area, the current phrasing is a list of permitted areas within the park, meaning anything not in that list is, by omission, not open to climbing.

NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT.

https://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing links to https://ncc-website-2.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/Rock-Climbing-in-Gatineau-Park.pdf?mtime=20200113133647 which says, " Creating new routes is not permitted".

The Eardley Escarpment is contained in Gatineau Park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing.

Cliff-top access is permitted only at Home Cliff and Western Cwm, at other crags climbs must be climbed from ground up.

The NCC, land-managers for Gatineau park, have a history of changing their web-page layout making direct-linking risky. As of fall 2018, their statement on climbing is available at: http://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing

While the origins of the closure was ecological sensitivity for the Eardley Escarpment (which is on the southern flank of the park), and originated as specific closures in that area, the current phrasing is a list of permitted areas within the park, meaning anything not in that list is, by omission, not open to climbing.

This section of three routes is found on a clean part of the slab about 100m east (above and behind) Shpinava Wall.

Climb up the slab staying left of the flake crack past three bolts to an easier section. Climb through a steeper bulge above this and past two more bolts all the way to top anchors. Two rappels may be needed to come back down. Rappel anchors on the ledge at mid-height.

Up the middle of the slab, directly beneath a cedar tree. Small crystals, tricky footwork.

The right side of the slab. Successive small ledges, delicate moves. Belay at the top of Primordial Soup.

Left-most wall on the south (right) side of the Cwm.

This area closed by the NCC as of 2010.

A short exposed route up the small face directly below a birch tree at the left end of the wall. 2 bolts and an anchor.

NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT.

https://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing links to https://ncc-website-2.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/Rock-Climbing-in-Gatineau-Park.pdf?mtime=20200113133647 which says, " Creating new routes is not permitted".

The Eardley Escarpment is contained in Gatineau Park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing.

Cliff-top access is permitted only at Home Cliff and Western Cwm, at other crags climbs must be climbed from ground up.

The NCC, land-managers for Gatineau park, have a history of changing their web-page layout making direct-linking risky. As of fall 2018, their statement on climbing is available at: http://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing

While the origins of the closure was ecological sensitivity for the Eardley Escarpment (which is on the southern flank of the park), and originated as specific closures in that area, the current phrasing is a list of permitted areas within the park, meaning anything not in that list is, by omission, not open to climbing.

Follow the large right-facing corner to the roof. Pull the roof and climb past a bolt up the left edge of a big flake to anchors above the flake.

NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT.

https://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing links to https://ncc-website-2.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/Rock-Climbing-in-Gatineau-Park.pdf?mtime=20200113133647 which says, " Creating new routes is not permitted".

The Eardley Escarpment is contained in Gatineau Park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing.

Cliff-top access is permitted only at Home Cliff and Western Cwm, at other crags climbs must be climbed from ground up.

The NCC, land-managers for Gatineau park, have a history of changing their web-page layout making direct-linking risky. As of fall 2018, their statement on climbing is available at: http://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing

While the origins of the closure was ecological sensitivity for the Eardley Escarpment (which is on the southern flank of the park), and originated as specific closures in that area, the current phrasing is a list of permitted areas within the park, meaning anything not in that list is, by omission, not open to climbing.

NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT.

https://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing links to https://ncc-website-2.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/Rock-Climbing-in-Gatineau-Park.pdf?mtime=20200113133647 which says, " Creating new routes is not permitted".

The Eardley Escarpment is contained in Gatineau Park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing.

Cliff-top access is permitted only at Home Cliff and Western Cwm, at other crags climbs must be climbed from ground up.

The NCC, land-managers for Gatineau park, have a history of changing their web-page layout making direct-linking risky. As of fall 2018, their statement on climbing is available at: http://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing

While the origins of the closure was ecological sensitivity for the Eardley Escarpment (which is on the southern flank of the park), and originated as specific closures in that area, the current phrasing is a list of permitted areas within the park, meaning anything not in that list is, by omission, not open to climbing.

NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT.

https://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing links to https://ncc-website-2.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/Rock-Climbing-in-Gatineau-Park.pdf?mtime=20200113133647 which says, " Creating new routes is not permitted".

The Eardley Escarpment is contained in Gatineau Park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing.

Cliff-top access is permitted only at Home Cliff and Western Cwm, at other crags climbs must be climbed from ground up.

The NCC, land-managers for Gatineau park, have a history of changing their web-page layout making direct-linking risky. As of fall 2018, their statement on climbing is available at: http://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing

While the origins of the closure was ecological sensitivity for the Eardley Escarpment (which is on the southern flank of the park), and originated as specific closures in that area, the current phrasing is a list of permitted areas within the park, meaning anything not in that list is, by omission, not open to climbing.

This cliff closed by the NCC as of fall 2010.

NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT.

https://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing links to https://ncc-website-2.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/Rock-Climbing-in-Gatineau-Park.pdf?mtime=20200113133647 which says, " Creating new routes is not permitted".

The Eardley Escarpment is contained in Gatineau Park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing.

Cliff-top access is permitted only at Home Cliff and Western Cwm, at other crags climbs must be climbed from ground up.

The NCC, land-managers for Gatineau park, have a history of changing their web-page layout making direct-linking risky. As of fall 2018, their statement on climbing is available at: http://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing

While the origins of the closure was ecological sensitivity for the Eardley Escarpment (which is on the southern flank of the park), and originated as specific closures in that area, the current phrasing is a list of permitted areas within the park, meaning anything not in that list is, by omission, not open to climbing.

As you follow the arete up and leftwards from the nose, it is smooth until it encounters a small overhang with a crack below it. This climb starts below this break in the arete. It starts up a finger crack, the gets wider and steeper as it ascends, to a surprisingly steep lay-back section. Intimidating for a 5.4, but takes good gear all the way.

At the top, step right to a small triangular ledge. There are two old pitons slung as a rappel anchor. If belaying from here, backup gear in the crack up and left from the ledge might be a good idea.

Climb a finger crack rightwards, then gain the arete. Climb its left side. Almost no protection once you gain the arete.

NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT.

https://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing links to https://ncc-website-2.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/Rock-Climbing-in-Gatineau-Park.pdf?mtime=20200113133647 which says, " Creating new routes is not permitted".

The Eardley Escarpment is contained in Gatineau Park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing.

Cliff-top access is permitted only at Home Cliff and Western Cwm, at other crags climbs must be climbed from ground up.

The NCC, land-managers for Gatineau park, have a history of changing their web-page layout making direct-linking risky. As of fall 2018, their statement on climbing is available at: http://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing

While the origins of the closure was ecological sensitivity for the Eardley Escarpment (which is on the southern flank of the park), and originated as specific closures in that area, the current phrasing is a list of permitted areas within the park, meaning anything not in that list is, by omission, not open to climbing.

NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT.

https://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing links to https://ncc-website-2.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/Rock-Climbing-in-Gatineau-Park.pdf?mtime=20200113133647 which says, " Creating new routes is not permitted".

The Eardley Escarpment is contained in Gatineau Park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing.

Cliff-top access is permitted only at Home Cliff and Western Cwm, at other crags climbs must be climbed from ground up.

The NCC, land-managers for Gatineau park, have a history of changing their web-page layout making direct-linking risky. As of fall 2018, their statement on climbing is available at: http://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing

While the origins of the closure was ecological sensitivity for the Eardley Escarpment (which is on the southern flank of the park), and originated as specific closures in that area, the current phrasing is a list of permitted areas within the park, meaning anything not in that list is, by omission, not open to climbing.

This wall closed by the NCC as of fall 2010.

Start up to the first bolt of "Butt Cheeks", then go left up the wide over-hanging crack to a ledge, then up the face above.

Looks to be far harder than the (historical) 5.9 grade it has.

Up the initial overhanging section, step right, then up the thin slab and arete above.

Looks to be significantly harder than the (historical?) 5.10a grade.

This climb was named to commemorate Colonel Saunders' contribution to any climbers training diet!

Start at the base of a small wall immediately right of Heart Rate. Follow the obvious line up the wall, going left up to a ledge which crosses the face, then diagonally right up a thin crack.

Starts behind a half-dead tree. Climb the thin face past three bolts to the anchor shared with "Colonel Buckets".

This wall closed by the NCC as of fall 2010.

One of the most prominent features on the right side of the Cwm, for its height, and distinctive whiteness. It is, also, where the approach trail arrives at this side of the Cwm.

NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT.

https://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing links to https://ncc-website-2.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/Rock-Climbing-in-Gatineau-Park.pdf?mtime=20200113133647 which says, " Creating new routes is not permitted".

The Eardley Escarpment is contained in Gatineau Park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing.

Cliff-top access is permitted only at Home Cliff and Western Cwm, at other crags climbs must be climbed from ground up.

The NCC, land-managers for Gatineau park, have a history of changing their web-page layout making direct-linking risky. As of fall 2018, their statement on climbing is available at: http://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing

While the origins of the closure was ecological sensitivity for the Eardley Escarpment (which is on the southern flank of the park), and originated as specific closures in that area, the current phrasing is a list of permitted areas within the park, meaning anything not in that list is, by omission, not open to climbing.

NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT.

https://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing links to https://ncc-website-2.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/Rock-Climbing-in-Gatineau-Park.pdf?mtime=20200113133647 which says, " Creating new routes is not permitted".

The Eardley Escarpment is contained in Gatineau Park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing.

Cliff-top access is permitted only at Home Cliff and Western Cwm, at other crags climbs must be climbed from ground up.

The NCC, land-managers for Gatineau park, have a history of changing their web-page layout making direct-linking risky. As of fall 2018, their statement on climbing is available at: http://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing

While the origins of the closure was ecological sensitivity for the Eardley Escarpment (which is on the southern flank of the park), and originated as specific closures in that area, the current phrasing is a list of permitted areas within the park, meaning anything not in that list is, by omission, not open to climbing.

NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT.

https://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing links to https://ncc-website-2.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/Rock-Climbing-in-Gatineau-Park.pdf?mtime=20200113133647 which says, " Creating new routes is not permitted".

The Eardley Escarpment is contained in Gatineau Park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing.

Cliff-top access is permitted only at Home Cliff and Western Cwm, at other crags climbs must be climbed from ground up.

The NCC, land-managers for Gatineau park, have a history of changing their web-page layout making direct-linking risky. As of fall 2018, their statement on climbing is available at: http://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing

While the origins of the closure was ecological sensitivity for the Eardley Escarpment (which is on the southern flank of the park), and originated as specific closures in that area, the current phrasing is a list of permitted areas within the park, meaning anything not in that list is, by omission, not open to climbing.

NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT.

https://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing links to https://ncc-website-2.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/Rock-Climbing-in-Gatineau-Park.pdf?mtime=20200113133647 which says, " Creating new routes is not permitted".

The Eardley Escarpment is contained in Gatineau Park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing.

Cliff-top access is permitted only at Home Cliff and Western Cwm, at other crags climbs must be climbed from ground up.

The NCC, land-managers for Gatineau park, have a history of changing their web-page layout making direct-linking risky. As of fall 2018, their statement on climbing is available at: http://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing

While the origins of the closure was ecological sensitivity for the Eardley Escarpment (which is on the southern flank of the park), and originated as specific closures in that area, the current phrasing is a list of permitted areas within the park, meaning anything not in that list is, by omission, not open to climbing.

This are closed by the NCC as of fall 2010.

This is the prominent buttress just to the right of "White Wall". The first couple climbs face towards White Wall, and other continue around all three sides of the buttress.

Climb the wide crack to bolt anchors on the right.

Climb the face and cracks right of "Morning Crack". Can either finish with a step-right and mantel to the anchors for "Enron", or left to the anchors for "Morning Crack".

Climb the arete and mantel your way up to the bolt anchors. One cam after the first bolt is probably a good idea, and will protect you from a groundfall while clipping the 2nd bolt, but isn't absolutely necessary.

Climb up then left, following the obvious curving arch up to a big ledge. From the ledge, move up a into a scoop (crux), stepping left from a bolt, then up a crack/book to fixed anchors.

The crux is likely far harder than 5.9 -- but can be climbed A0 (clip bolt then pull).

Start up Corruption, but a couple meters off the ground, climb a thin crack rightwards through an overhang and up to trees.

Start below the corner/arete to the right of the obvious arching crack of "Corruption".

Climb up the arete and step right to the crack in the overhang. Pull over this and up the crack above to trees.

Gear is good, crux is hard for a 5.5.

Around the right side of Corruption buttress is a short slab with a bolted anchor at the top. This route goes up the left side -- easy going to the one bolt, then a few moves.

Around the right side of Corruption buttress is a short slab with a bolted anchor at the top. This route goes up the right side, the side with 2 bolts.

This is a slightly overhanging face with challenging and varied routes. It is the most easterly of the walls in the Cwm. A section of fourth class rock to the left of the cliff leads to the top.

This area has been closed by the NCC since 2005.

Start off a boulder beneath the roof at the base of the cliff and follow a set of overhanging crack and flakes around the left end of the wall.

This climb ascends the slightly overhanging middle part of the cliff. Small flakes, crucial footwork. Anchors at the top.

NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT.

https://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing links to https://ncc-website-2.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/Rock-Climbing-in-Gatineau-Park.pdf?mtime=20200113133647 which says, " Creating new routes is not permitted".

The Eardley Escarpment is contained in Gatineau Park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing.

Cliff-top access is permitted only at Home Cliff and Western Cwm, at other crags climbs must be climbed from ground up.

The NCC, land-managers for Gatineau park, have a history of changing their web-page layout making direct-linking risky. As of fall 2018, their statement on climbing is available at: http://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing

While the origins of the closure was ecological sensitivity for the Eardley Escarpment (which is on the southern flank of the park), and originated as specific closures in that area, the current phrasing is a list of permitted areas within the park, meaning anything not in that list is, by omission, not open to climbing.

NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT.

https://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing links to https://ncc-website-2.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/Rock-Climbing-in-Gatineau-Park.pdf?mtime=20200113133647 which says, " Creating new routes is not permitted".

The Eardley Escarpment is contained in Gatineau Park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing.

Cliff-top access is permitted only at Home Cliff and Western Cwm, at other crags climbs must be climbed from ground up.

The NCC, land-managers for Gatineau park, have a history of changing their web-page layout making direct-linking risky. As of fall 2018, their statement on climbing is available at: http://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing

While the origins of the closure was ecological sensitivity for the Eardley Escarpment (which is on the southern flank of the park), and originated as specific closures in that area, the current phrasing is a list of permitted areas within the park, meaning anything not in that list is, by omission, not open to climbing.

Belay and rappel from the cedar tree.

About 20m right of Cedar Route is a distinctive chimney. A fist crack branches out right from the base of the chimney. Climb the crack out right to a slab which is followed to trees at the top.

Climb up a section of featured rock a few meters right of Jam Along, up to where the crack of Jam Along meets with the slab. Finish up the slab.

Underneath Corruption Buttress is this seldom-visited wall, which contains two routes near its left end.

This area has been closed by the NCC since 2005.

Located on the north-west facing steep lichenous face, this short route climbs up through the lichen using cracks.

To the right of Punk-Doodles is an obvious pink recess. Climb up into this, then up a crack to the top.

A few boulder problems exist along the approach to the Western CWM.

Short and explosive. Start on 2 small crimps on a 50 degree wall and dyno to a very slopey and hard to stick topout. The footholds on this problem are just horrible. You have to generate lots of power to reach the top by smearing on a 50 degree wall.

Slab line in the middle of the boulder. Done many times in the past, but unnamed at the moment.

Right side of the boulder. Done many times in the past, but unnamed at the moment.

A high start possible from two holds in the crack. Crux is pulling off the ground. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4rS9b0GNYjM

Starts sitting on some terrible holds and does very difficult moves to join to the top.

NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT.

https://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing links to https://ncc-website-2.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/Rock-Climbing-in-Gatineau-Park.pdf?mtime=20200113133647 which says, " Creating new routes is not permitted".

The Eardley Escarpment is contained in Gatineau Park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing.

Cliff-top access is permitted only at Home Cliff and Western Cwm, at other crags climbs must be climbed from ground up.

The NCC, land-managers for Gatineau park, have a history of changing their web-page layout making direct-linking risky. As of fall 2018, their statement on climbing is available at: http://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing

While the origins of the closure was ecological sensitivity for the Eardley Escarpment (which is on the southern flank of the park), and originated as specific closures in that area, the current phrasing is a list of permitted areas within the park, meaning anything not in that list is, by omission, not open to climbing.