Nodes in Outaouais

A superb route which follows the obvious dihedral up the center of the cliff. Start 5m right of Original Route, at the base of an obvious corner.

1. (5.4) Follow the corner to ledges below an overhang.
2. (5.9) Step left and go up the lower section of the dihedral (usually wet, but not too difficult) to a good resting spot below the upper steeper section. Make some hard moves (crux) to get established in the upper dihedral, and follow it up to a good resting ledge. Continue up in the same line (still difficult) to the top.

Zigzag up the face, trending rightwards, to get underneath the large sloping overhang. Continue up past the overhang to easier ground.

To the right of the large sloping overhang is another big easy-angled wall, capped by overhangs.

1. (5.1) 18m - Climb the wall, trending right towards a corner which is climbed to a good ledge and cedar tree belay.
2. (5.4) 20m - Climb a wide crack behind the cedar tree, bypassing the overhangs. Once above the level of the overhangs, go diagonally rightwards over easy ground to a tree belay.
3. (5.0) 50m - Scramble to the top. (Or rappel back down.)

A challenging micro-route. It is located on a small buttress well to the right of the main cliff. (Though, the historical descent path does pass underneath it.)

The left side of the buttress is a short steep wall. It is distinguished by a large roof about 3m above the ground, which is split by a horizontal flake crack. Climb up to the crack and use it to get established on the upper face. Traverse accross the face to easy ground.

Mont King is one of the tallest continuous pieces of climbable rock on the Eardley escarpment at about 90m total height. This cliff is currently (Spring 2011) closed by the NCC.

Mont-King boulders consist of a high density of boulders in a small radius. There will be more than 40 lines once everything is climbed. It ranges from v0 to v12 and has a lot of harder lines waiting to be climbed. It varies from lowball to highball. That being said, the rock isn't the best quality, it has crystals, and sometimes polished holds. Despite that, the lines themselves are quality and offer some interesting beta. Its approach is 10 to 12min only on a slighty steep terrain.

The spot can be divided in three sections.

The Fortress is the huge highball boulder with numerous mid-grade lines and sketchy landing. A few slab/vert highball lines on its south side are possible as well.

Afterward, there's The Skeleton boulder which offers excellent lowball lines with good landings and a long traverse. One of the hardest lines in the region is waiting to be climbed there as well.

The last boulder is called The Citadel. It has some v0/v1 all around the boulder that needs FAs, a cool mid-grade traverse, a tricky v6, and a hard project as well. Perfect landings everywhere and a decent-sized rock with a great ladder to climb down.

Birds might be nesting so pay attention for the NCC signs if there's any. Normally ends around August.

SDS left of the lip and traverse before toping out at the jug.

SDS right of the arete with a left undercling and right edge. Really nice moves. Hard v3

Start standing on rock, step on the wall and climb the face with cool holds. Jugs are waiting at the top.

NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT.

https://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing links to https://ncc-website-2.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/Rock-Climbing-in-Gatineau-Park.pdf?mtime=20200113133647 which says, " Creating new routes is not permitted".

The Eardley Escarpment is contained in Gatineau Park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing.

Cliff-top access is permitted only at Home Cliff and Western Cwm, at other crags climbs must be climbed from ground up.

The NCC, land-managers for Gatineau park, have a history of changing their web-page layout making direct-linking risky. As of fall 2018, their statement on climbing is available at: http://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing

While the origins of the closure was ecological sensitivity for the Eardley Escarpment (which is on the southern flank of the park), and originated as specific closures in that area, the current phrasing is a list of permitted areas within the park, meaning anything not in that list is, by omission, not open to climbing.

NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT.

https://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing links to https://ncc-website-2.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/Rock-Climbing-in-Gatineau-Park.pdf?mtime=20200113133647 which says, " Creating new routes is not permitted".

The Eardley Escarpment is contained in Gatineau Park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing.

Cliff-top access is permitted only at Home Cliff and Western Cwm, at other crags climbs must be climbed from ground up.

The NCC, land-managers for Gatineau park, have a history of changing their web-page layout making direct-linking risky. As of fall 2018, their statement on climbing is available at: http://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing

While the origins of the closure was ecological sensitivity for the Eardley Escarpment (which is on the southern flank of the park), and originated as specific closures in that area, the current phrasing is a list of permitted areas within the park, meaning anything not in that list is, by omission, not open to climbing.

SDS on the boulder, bottom of the arete on edges. Climb up on interesting sequence. Landing makes it a highball.

you will find a small side pull for your left hand and a bad right hand crimp. Do a few long moves and finish into standing fool.

To the left of Waspitol. Not sure of the start. Would follow a series of small crystal holds. would also need to be eliminate because waspitol is so near. (Looks around v8ish)

Start with both hands on edge (8 feet high). Go left hand to sharp crimp, right hand to slopper then top out

High stand start on small bad holds in the middle of the face. Will adjust grade when more send occur.

A hard link up from Le Fou Du Roi into the crimpy face. Vhard

SDS on the angled rock in the hole. Left sidepull and right sharp pinch. Excellent climb. Top out as for Le Trebuchet. A direct topout would make it spicy. Get good spotter...

Same as Le Fou Du Roi but top out directly. Would add some spice to the climb and difficulty. Sketchy landing...

Excellent climb. SDS on the arete with two pinches sitting on the boulder. Top out to the left, above the highball finish. Don't fall.

start on jugs and go straight in the vertical seam.

Link Eruptor into project 11. It won't affect the grade but would offer a different exit.

Another great climb. SDS with high left gaston and right sidepull. Make a big explosive move with your right and bump again. Once you reach the jug, keep climbing obliquely left. Get pads and spotters...

Start low on the lip and climb it all the way to its apex. Cool problem for the grade.

Climb from under the roof and top out

Start low on a good hold and climb the lip. Not really worth it...

NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT.

https://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing links to https://ncc-website-2.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/Rock-Climbing-in-Gatineau-Park.pdf?mtime=20200113133647 which says, " Creating new routes is not permitted".

The Eardley Escarpment is contained in Gatineau Park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing.

Cliff-top access is permitted only at Home Cliff and Western Cwm, at other crags climbs must be climbed from ground up.

The NCC, land-managers for Gatineau park, have a history of changing their web-page layout making direct-linking risky. As of fall 2018, their statement on climbing is available at: http://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing

While the origins of the closure was ecological sensitivity for the Eardley Escarpment (which is on the southern flank of the park), and originated as specific closures in that area, the current phrasing is a list of permitted areas within the park, meaning anything not in that list is, by omission, not open to climbing.

Fun aesthetic line that start low on the arete. A sit start is possible which bump the grade to v2/3 but reduce the quality.

Start on two painful crimps and traverse right towards the arete on really painful small holds. (Looks like v10+) A key hold is loose and will probably break

Fun warm up. SDS on arete , up and traverse left.

Good climb on sharp holds. Left side pull and right pockety hold. A hold broke making the problem much harder

Dyno project on the left of the wall.

SDS on the large edge. Big move to the lip. Fun lowball

SDS with left small edge and right blocky hold. Excellent climb

Same as the previous one but after doing the first move to the left, reach a far right slot, bump and then go for the lip. A bit of an eleminate in order to force the grade but still recommended despite that.

This is the low project of the skeleton. Start with 2 gastons/pinches. Some cool toe hook and lot of muscles is required for this problem. V10+ ?

Start at bottom right end of the lip and traverse all the way left. Require a good brushing.

Numerous holds on a really steep roof. Looks extremely hard. (V12+?)

SDS with a low left crimp pinch and a right crimp on arete. Great lowball. Way better than what it looks.

SDS on the two crimps of the arete. Lowball.

Start left of the arete with a right hand undercling.

Stand start with left arete and right high jug. Fun warm-up

Same start as Acro but traverse right and topout at the apex of the boulder. Tricky and really sequencial. You may top half way through for a v2/3

The middle line of the boulder. Strange start on good holds but a far left foot. Massive first move with a dificult exit. Grade to be confirmed! One hard move after v4 ish

Start with sloper/pinch left hand and right hand on low crimps and top out.

Start this tricky problem with a low left hand crimp and a right sloppy hold. Beta oriented.

The sit start, adds 2 harder move to Citadel. Really wide start.

NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT.

https://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing links to https://ncc-website-2.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/Rock-Climbing-in-Gatineau-Park.pdf?mtime=20200113133647 which says, " Creating new routes is not permitted".

The Eardley Escarpment is contained in Gatineau Park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing.

Cliff-top access is permitted only at Home Cliff and Western Cwm, at other crags climbs must be climbed from ground up.

The NCC, land-managers for Gatineau park, have a history of changing their web-page layout making direct-linking risky. As of fall 2018, their statement on climbing is available at: http://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing

While the origins of the closure was ecological sensitivity for the Eardley Escarpment (which is on the southern flank of the park), and originated as specific closures in that area, the current phrasing is a list of permitted areas within the park, meaning anything not in that list is, by omission, not open to climbing.

NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT.

https://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing links to https://ncc-website-2.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/Rock-Climbing-in-Gatineau-Park.pdf?mtime=20200113133647 which says, " Creating new routes is not permitted".

The Eardley Escarpment is contained in Gatineau Park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing.

Cliff-top access is permitted only at Home Cliff and Western Cwm, at other crags climbs must be climbed from ground up.

The NCC, land-managers for Gatineau park, have a history of changing their web-page layout making direct-linking risky. As of fall 2018, their statement on climbing is available at: http://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing

While the origins of the closure was ecological sensitivity for the Eardley Escarpment (which is on the southern flank of the park), and originated as specific closures in that area, the current phrasing is a list of permitted areas within the park, meaning anything not in that list is, by omission, not open to climbing.

NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT.

https://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing links to https://ncc-website-2.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/Rock-Climbing-in-Gatineau-Park.pdf?mtime=20200113133647 which says, " Creating new routes is not permitted".

The Eardley Escarpment is contained in Gatineau Park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing.

Cliff-top access is permitted only at Home Cliff and Western Cwm, at other crags climbs must be climbed from ground up.

The NCC, land-managers for Gatineau park, have a history of changing their web-page layout making direct-linking risky. As of fall 2018, their statement on climbing is available at: http://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing

While the origins of the closure was ecological sensitivity for the Eardley Escarpment (which is on the southern flank of the park), and originated as specific closures in that area, the current phrasing is a list of permitted areas within the park, meaning anything not in that list is, by omission, not open to climbing.

NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT.

https://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing links to https://ncc-website-2.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/Rock-Climbing-in-Gatineau-Park.pdf?mtime=20200113133647 which says, " Creating new routes is not permitted".

The Eardley Escarpment is contained in Gatineau Park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing.

Cliff-top access is permitted only at Home Cliff and Western Cwm, at other crags climbs must be climbed from ground up.

The NCC, land-managers for Gatineau park, have a history of changing their web-page layout making direct-linking risky. As of fall 2018, their statement on climbing is available at: http://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing

While the origins of the closure was ecological sensitivity for the Eardley Escarpment (which is on the southern flank of the park), and originated as specific closures in that area, the current phrasing is a list of permitted areas within the park, meaning anything not in that list is, by omission, not open to climbing.

NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT.

https://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing links to https://ncc-website-2.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/Rock-Climbing-in-Gatineau-Park.pdf?mtime=20200113133647 which says, " Creating new routes is not permitted".

The Eardley Escarpment is contained in Gatineau Park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing.

Cliff-top access is permitted only at Home Cliff and Western Cwm, at other crags climbs must be climbed from ground up.

The NCC, land-managers for Gatineau park, have a history of changing their web-page layout making direct-linking risky. As of fall 2018, their statement on climbing is available at: http://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing

While the origins of the closure was ecological sensitivity for the Eardley Escarpment (which is on the southern flank of the park), and originated as specific closures in that area, the current phrasing is a list of permitted areas within the park, meaning anything not in that list is, by omission, not open to climbing.

NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT.

https://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing links to https://ncc-website-2.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/Rock-Climbing-in-Gatineau-Park.pdf?mtime=20200113133647 which says, " Creating new routes is not permitted".

The Eardley Escarpment is contained in Gatineau Park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing.

Cliff-top access is permitted only at Home Cliff and Western Cwm, at other crags climbs must be climbed from ground up.

The NCC, land-managers for Gatineau park, have a history of changing their web-page layout making direct-linking risky. As of fall 2018, their statement on climbing is available at: http://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing

While the origins of the closure was ecological sensitivity for the Eardley Escarpment (which is on the southern flank of the park), and originated as specific closures in that area, the current phrasing is a list of permitted areas within the park, meaning anything not in that list is, by omission, not open to climbing.

An area of numerous small outcrops, primarily seen as a bouldering location.

Nice aesthetic rock on a hill. Clean, flat landings. Some real problems and some contrivances.

Access is questionable, at best. This is not part of the escarpment, so one might argue it isn't covered by the closure -- but the current phrasing on the NCC website is to list only the sections of the park where climbing is open, and this is not listed.

obvious side angle edge top out

SDS with a good left undercling and a right crimpy sidepull. Go right to finish in "Kiki". Adds a lot, fun!

Follow crack up and right then onto jugs and flake. Keep going right around the corner and top out over Gonzo.

Sit Start on small holds right of the crack.

Stand start matched on side pull. Feet on big ledge. One move wonder to the top.

See beta here: https://youtu.be/9coHARx97OU

Running Start jump and top out.

Start on bad sloper at face level. Topout.

NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT.

https://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing links to https://ncc-website-2.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/Rock-Climbing-in-Gatineau-Park.pdf?mtime=20200113133647 which says, " Creating new routes is not permitted".

The Eardley Escarpment is contained in Gatineau Park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing.

Cliff-top access is permitted only at Home Cliff and Western Cwm, at other crags climbs must be climbed from ground up.

The NCC, land-managers for Gatineau park, have a history of changing their web-page layout making direct-linking risky. As of fall 2018, their statement on climbing is available at: http://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing

While the origins of the closure was ecological sensitivity for the Eardley Escarpment (which is on the southern flank of the park), and originated as specific closures in that area, the current phrasing is a list of permitted areas within the park, meaning anything not in that list is, by omission, not open to climbing.

Start on frogger and finish on Gonzo

Start matched on lowest sloper and make your way to the big sidepull crack on the right. Topout to the left of the crack.

See beta here: https://youtu.be/Hw_KtKAIZII

Gonzo into Frogger finishing with a slot stabbing

SDS with hands matched on obvious shelf. Get that left foot high, find balance and deadpoint to that crimp!

See beta here: https://youtu.be/w_NEP7ruOIM

Follow the obvious crack.

Sit start on left facing slot. Pull on and move up then left on good holds.

Start low on ok crimps and follow good holds

Start on small rock at base of boulder matched on the decent rail. Move up, trending right on good ledges and jugs.

Sit start on small holds. Pull on with difficulty and move up to flame shaped stain. Top out.

Who knows what any of these things are graded. This is harder than the candle, maybe hardest line of the boulder, maybe V5-ish, no idea... Sit start: with left hand on the right hand start from The Candle, and right hand on the right corner. I used a right foot below me and a left foot on the start foot from The Candle. Go up right hand to a narrow thin matchbook pinch and then up to topout. Video Here.

Julien boulder is a big rock with a few lines all around it. Nicely featured with a beautiful 60 degrees roof. Offer an easy approach, excellent landing, variety of difficulties and nearby boulders as well.

The Main Boulder of the Area

This is the first line you see once you find the boulder. An excellent line that start underneath the boulder with the lip for your left hand and a good pocket for your right hand.

This is an eliminate that is worth trying. Same start as the previous line but continue traversing right by grabbing a sharp hold in the roof then a left pinch. Make a hard move right to eventually top out on a big shelf while eliminating the big horn of La Lèvre À Julien.

NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT.

https://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing links to https://ncc-website-2.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/Rock-Climbing-in-Gatineau-Park.pdf?mtime=20200113133647 which says, " Creating new routes is not permitted".

The Eardley Escarpment is contained in Gatineau Park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing.

Cliff-top access is permitted only at Home Cliff and Western Cwm, at other crags climbs must be climbed from ground up.

The NCC, land-managers for Gatineau park, have a history of changing their web-page layout making direct-linking risky. As of fall 2018, their statement on climbing is available at: http://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing

While the origins of the closure was ecological sensitivity for the Eardley Escarpment (which is on the southern flank of the park), and originated as specific closures in that area, the current phrasing is a list of permitted areas within the park, meaning anything not in that list is, by omission, not open to climbing.

The main line of the boulder. Sitting under the overhang, left hand on a good jug, right hand lower on an ok undercling. Dedicated to my friend Fabien.

Starting on the lip of the roof, left hand on a weird looking hold, right hand on a small crimp. Go straight up.

To the left of the tree. This line links a different start to finish in Taloin. You'll find a left undercling and a cool looking hueco for you right.

Similar start as Tappe moi la fesse but Left hand in the hueco and right in an undercling. Go straight up.

Traversing the whole lip.

Start matched on a good hold. Follow the jug life.

Sit start on the arete. Reach a left edge and finish in the jugs.

The traverse that will make your skin bleed. Sit start on the left end and top just before the tree.

Extension of the previous line, keep going further and pass under the tree to finally top out at the other end of the line.

Mini boulder. Sit start with a really good hold, top directly above you. Extension V3 : Reach the lip but traverse right under the tree and top out on the corner.

Sit start on a perfect sloper. Top a little to the left.

To the left corner of 'La Lèvre à Julien'. Small problem.

Close by Julien boulder, there's some more line spreaded around and some cool pink looking boulder further.

Left hand on a good hold close to the lip, low right hand, pinching that weird looking thang !! A lower start seems possible/hard

Same start than the traverse but top out directly.

Sit start with good holds and traverse all the way to your right with some painful holds and really sequencial beta.

Left hand on a slopper, used a far right undercling.

Same as the previous line but top out directly.

Sit start matched on a huge undercling

Right hand on a really good hold. Reach all the way to the left.

You'll find a good hold for both of your hands. Top directly by using funky beta !!! Video

Start awkwardly on the lip and top out on the slab. Not really worth it...