Routes as alpine in Canada

Significant amounts of scrambling on the ridge crest link 3 distinct sections of climbing. The first, a short chimney, goes at low 5th class. More scrambling leads around right of the crest to a short slab, which may either be climbed directly or via a corner to the left at 5.6 to regain the ridge. Finally, a short wall (4th class) blocks the way to the summit.

Descend via the scrambler's gully to the north - several sections may require some short downclimbing.

The prominent gully in the centre of the north face. Approach by traversing across from the west saddle/col of the tower.

Climb the gully in 3-5 pitches. Difficulty and amount of ice varies with the amount of snow. Below is Brandon Pullan's description from the second ascent in Oct 2007:

P1: Climb 20m of WI2 until behind a large choc stone, a 5.4 move gains a snow ramp, climb up to belay behind ice pillar. 60m, WI2

P2: Up the small pillar and ramp of ice to an impassable choc stone. Climb wall on the right (10m, M4) and up snow ramp to a belay ledge on the left with good cracks for gear. 60m, M4, WI3

P3: Continue up steeper snow and into ice for 30m. Up a tricky section of thin ice to get to the higher snow ramp. Belay in good cave under cornice. 60m, WI3

P4: Negotiate cornice! 20m, M3?

delete this climb

A dry tooling route to the left of Coire Dubh Integrale. Climb the ice and initial gully as for Coire Dubh Integrale but then at the top of the gully head straight up and climb below the major right facing corner system of the main face. Some bolts assist with the protection.

The classic mini alpine route 20 minutes from Canmore. Climb the WI3 curtain down low than scramble up low angle ice heading up the gully. At the top of the gully take a hard right for a few hundred meters to hit the left facing corner which presents the M4 crux of the route. Climb this to a tree belay. Continue up following mostly corners aiming for the large left facing corer feature at the top of the mountain. From here the direct finish is Coire Dubh Integral, or the right side finish is Coire Dubh. For CDI continue up trending slightly right pitching/scrambling as necessary. The second crux is found in a chimney (bolt) followed by a single bolt belay. Then traverse right 60m. Before heading straight to the top of the ridge. Walk off via Loder peak scrambling trail.

The classic mini alpine route 20 minutes from Canmore. Climb the WI3 curtain down low than scramble up low angle ice heading up the gully. At the top of the gully take a hard right for a few hundred meters to hit the left facing corner which presents the M4 crux of the route. Climb this to a tree belay. Continue up following mostly corners aiming for the large left facing corer feature at the top of the mountain. From here the direct finish is Coire Dubh Integral, or the right side finish is Coire Dubh. For CD traverse right and up. Pitching/scrambling as needed up a series of ledges. Followed by a short pitch to the ridge top. This route is much less sustained than CDI. Walk off via Loder peak scrambling trail.

Go along close to the crest (left side) of ridge on various trails for about 1 hour for about 500 m. until hit first rock band – 30 m high wall. Checked down and left but couldn’t find easy spot. Apparently the easy scramble route is farther uphill to the right. We went up a 5.4 groove for 30 m and then scrambled some slabs and trees for another 50 m.

Put rope away if used it as it is another 1 hour as go up scree, small rock bands and treed ridge until hit second rock band which is 50m+ wall. Lots of cairns and we went down and left to the find the 5.5 layback crack beside a big tree. Need a left hand underhand move to go up this and some people rate it at 5.4. Good protection placements in crack. Top of ridge in another 20 m.

Now on rock ridge, go over exposed knife edge sections, some bolts(hangers removed as of aug/2011) and over one 5.2 tower. Put away the rope again for 20 -30 min as hike down scree and back up along broad ridge as it turns left. Scramble around some towers and up to a large tower/rock band that blocks the ridge. The trails leads right for 100 m along a 10 m wide ledge at the base of the band and then up easy rock for 15m to another ledge at the base of second rock band. Traverse back left to the top of the tower and then up onto upper rock band/rock ridge. This would be quite easy if dry but it was deep snow when we did it and not pleasant as we wallowed and were at risk of avalanche. A group behind climbed a 5.6 groove to the right of the tower but it was wet and we had our boots on so we went with the snow. Some groups rate this as 5.5/5.6 when dry and it would be much faster and safer than going around on the ledges.

The upper rock ridge has sections of knife edge and rubble- moderate scrambling. Some diversions left around towers/rock bands and eventually comes to the final steep 50 m high rock band. This looks steep but an easy 5.3 route slants up 30 m and left across the face and puts you on the scree/rubble slopes which lead to the false summit above the teahouse. 6 hours in total.

A classic! Often referred to as an "sidewalk in the sky" for its relatively low technical difficulty but exposed nature. Don't be fooled by the grade... this is still not an easy objective.

Approach this route via Abbott Pass - either via the Fuhrmann Ledges from Lake Louise, or via Lake Oesa from Lake O'Hara in Yoho. Many parties stay at the hut. See the Alpine Club of Canada website for availability and booking.

Climb the ridge above the hut, staying on the ridgeline where possible and bypassing difficulties on the right (north) side. Continue up rock and scree of dubious quality to a snowy ridge. Follow this to a large dip in the ridge (the Sickle). Once past the Sickle, climb up a short step to regain the ridge. Continue up to the next large rock band and head along it, right of the crest to a weakness to (again) regain the ridge. Continue upwards along easy snow and rock to the summit. Retrace your steps to descend.

A long day, with a good variety of terrain to keep you on your toes. Don't be fooled by the low grade... this can still be a serious objective requiring a range of mountaineering skills.

Approach via Lake Louise and the Plain of Six Glaciers trail. Just past the teahouse, head up a scree gully and then a well-trodden trail through the brush to a talus field below Mt Collier. Continue up this to the toe of the Victoria glacier.

From the toe of the glacier, travel up the glacier avoiding hazard from the rognon and from the slopes of Collier above. Cross the bergschrund and climb up to the base of the black band below the Victoria-Collier col. Climb this band (very poor, loose rock) to the col. From here, climb the ridge south of the col to the summit. Either tackle the rock difficulties straight on or bypass them on snow/ice on the exposed right side above the imposing North Face. Descend the same route. Rappel anchors may be found at times, but test them thoroughly before trusting them.

A very committing and seldom-traveled objective, this traverse covers the entirety of the ~2-3km skyline between the Victoria/Collier col and Abbott Pass. It is most often completed in a north-to-south direction (described here).

Climb the north summit of Mt Victoria via any route (the NE ridge is recommended). Once on the summit, the way ahead becomes clear, over loose, shattered rock and past several sub-summits and gendarmes. Travel along the ridge, bypassing most difficulties on the left (north) side. Rock quality varies from OK to terrible on most sections of the ridge, though it becomes markedly worse once passing the midway point on the subsummit of "Victoria Centre."

Once on the south summit of Mt Victoria, continue along the ridge and down the standard Southeast Ridge to Abbott Pass. Descend from the pass either via Lake Oesa and Lake O'Hara, or along the flanks of Mt Lefroy and down the Fuhrmann Ledges.

WARNING: DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS ROUTE WITHOUT EXPERIENCE AND ABILITY ON CHOSSY ROCKIES LIMESTONE!

One of the best alpine rock routes on one of the most impressive mountains in the southern Rockies!

From Lake Annette, head up and right towards the buttress right of the Sphinx Face, and find a waterfall draining the face.

At the base of the buttress, climb a short pitch of ~5.5 on a steep quartzite cliff just left of the waterfall draining the Sphinx Face above. Cross the creek and scramble up and right on shale-covered ledges aiming for a left-trending gully, about 200m. Follow the gully up and back left to gain the crest of the rib to a ledge on the crest below where the buttress steepens. Follow the rib for about 12 pitches, starting in or just left of a short chimney. Simulclimb or solo as possible and appropriate, following a line of least resistance and wandering left and right of the ridge crest. The best climbing is just right of the crest.

Near the base of the final headwall, good quartzite turns to poorer-quality chocolate-coloured rock. At this point, move right and scramble up a depression before trending back left into a cave-like chimney. Exit the chimney on the left and climb up and left to a ledge on the crest of the buttress. Either climb the steep corner crack on the right or move around to the left side of the crest and go up an easier groove, with the two options converging at a loose ledge below a steep chossy wall.

Traverse left along the ledge (1 rope length) to a lower-angled groove, and climb this to a large scree ledge. Either trend left (poor rock and protection but easier) or right (steeper but good rock and pro). Above, traverse right 1 rope length along another loose ledge to the base of a break in the headwall. Climb one pitch up and right past fixed pitons (optional belay at small pinnacle) to a loose red alcove (fixed angle on right). Exit the alcove up a steep left-facing corner on the left, followed with sustained climbing to a hanging belay (second of 2 fixed belays, ignore tat higher) 20m below a roof. Traverse around the arete on the right (fixed pins) to a slab of perfect limestone. Work up and right across the slab (fixed pins) to a crack, and follow the crack past a roof to a position below a larger roof. Step right again to gain the top of the wall.

Once off steep rock, walk up easy scree to the East Ridge, and follow the corniced ridge and glacier to the summit. From the summit, descend via the Southwest Face scramble route. From Sentinel Pass, descend the Paradise Valley trail to the trailhead.

Climb one gully to the right of the prominent serac. Lower angle at the base steepening to just under vertical at the top. Easier options exist to escape left or right if the top of the route is rotten or overhanging.

Climb the prominent gully on the left side of the north face. Skirt around the serac - an early ascent by Yvon Chouinard climbed this directly, though the route has since fallen off.

From Wenkchemna Pass, climb the Northwest Ridge of Neptuak Mountain (see that route's description) and descend the Southeast Ridge on scree, down a short chimney scramble and down a few broken rock bands to the Deltaform-Neptuak Col. Several bivouac corrals are present along the Southeast Ridge and at the col.

Climb the ridge, starting directly above the col. On sections where the ridge steepens, climb the line of least resistance on or right (south) of the crest. As the ridge gets higher, climb steeper rock of variable quality on roughly 30m pitches. Eventually, gain the false summit.

Rappel off the anchor on the false summit, down into a 10-15m deep notch. Climb out of this on the south side, on thin but positive handholds with no gear, setting a belay above. Scramble the last 3-4m to the summit.

To descend, reverse the route, rappelling and downclimbing as appropriate.

NOTE: This route is much more serious and committing than the grade makes it appear, with loose, rotten rock and serious exposure. Many parties take 2 days return from Moraine Lake.

From the Deltaform-Tuzo col, take the ridgeline directly above the col. Pass where the Flying Buttress joins, and continue up to the first of a series of 4 gendarmes. After climbing over it, rappel a short distance down to regain the ridge. On the second, pass a steep wall on the left and continue up and generally left to near the top, then step down and scramble back to the col.

Continue up the ridgeline past another two (rotten rock), passing difficulties on the left where appropriate and returning to the ridge afterwards. On the final tower, climb up gullies left of the ridgeline, then just below the summit make some airy, unprotected moves left out of the top of the gully then back right onto the final summit slope.

Descend either back to the Deltaform-Tuzo col, or the standard Northwest Ridge route down to the Deltaform-Neptuak col and over Neptuak to Wenkchemna Pass.

This route takes the massive buttress to looker's left of Deltaform's North Glacier, culminating on the East Ridge slightly up from the Deltaform-Tuzo col.

Start left of the toe of the buttress, and locate a wet left-facing corner at the top of a snow slope (may be melted later in the season). Either climb this directly, or traverse in from the left to avoid running water and mud when the snow melts. From a belay on the obvious ledge, climb up right and into another left-facing, dusty corner and traverse back left into the main corner. Take this past lots of scree and down-sloping quartzite holds to a ledge.

Unrope and scramble up on rock left and above the large prominent funnel on the right. After reaching the large headwall above, traverse left along its base to a scree-filled but generally solid chimney. Climb this directly, with belayer taking cover around the corner, and belay on top (60m or so). Unrope again and scramble up relatively solid quartzite and shale, trending up and right to ledges left of the gully splitting the upper buttress from the pinnacle of the lower.

Continue up on steepening rock (low 5th, may be pitched or soloed) to the base of an orange, overhung headwall. Step left and climb a wide chimney behind a block, then once on top head up and slightly left to a crack. Climb this and pull onto a large ledge. Either continue pitching above or unrope and climb on super solid quartzite at low 5th to another ledge. Head up reddish rock (looser) and set a belay below an overhanging squeeze chimney.

Climb the chimney (easier than it looks, and good gear) and ideally tagging packs. Continue one easy pitch and belay below a crack splitting a grey wall. Climb up (piton) and up the crack on insecure and loose moves and belay well back on the ledge above. From here, climb 3-4 pitches on easy but exposed and loose rock on and right of the ridgeline to a crest. Move the belay along the crest to below a cracked headwall. From here, walk right about 25m to a slot, and climb up, bypassing a small roof on the right. Continue up and right along the ridge to where it decreases in angle.

Finally, unrope and scramble up the ridge to where it joins the East Ridge. Either descend from here, or climb to the summit following the ridge.

The NW Ridge is the standard route up Neptuak, and is also commonly climbed en route to the Deltaform-Neptuak col to climb the Northwest Ridge of Deltaform. Despite this, it involves some exposed scrambling and serious climbing in itself.

Start from Wenkchemna Pass, and hike up over moraines to the start of some quartzite cliffs. Traverse right to a break, then scramble up and right to bypass the steepest part, and traverse back left along the base of the upper cliffband to a small bay. Climb 2 roughly 30m pitches to reach the ridge, then continue up the ridge above.

Hike up a large scree slope to the upper ridge, bypassing several difficulties to the right of the crest. Once at the upper rocks, climb several pitches of easier terrain up gullies and broken terrain, staying right of the crest. Once on the summit ridge, traverse it on a decent trail to the summit.

Descend the same way, rappelling where anchors are present and downclimbing other sections.

"Mount Hector's main route requires a ski mountaineering ascent. It moves through a lot of complex avalanche terrain, across glaciers, and through many terrain traps. Most people will do this route in spring, aiming to be off the mountain before noon. This route should be attempted only by very fit parties with experience in glacier travel. It is a route that requires constant movement. This route can and has been snowshoed, but this is more often over the course of two days because it's tough for snowshoes to move at a pace necessary to avoid avalanche terrain".

14km car to car - (3,412.00 m summit) - 1635m in elevation gain. Generally, a 7-hour car to car day.

Cross the glacier past the Silverhorn to the base of the wide North Face bowl. Gain the face past the bergschrund and head straight up moderate-angled alpine ice to a faint weakness to the side of a large pinnacle.

When at the base of the rock band, climb rock (crux) past some fixed pins for a pitch to gain the exit gully. Follow this direct to the summit.

Head up the glacier onto the main bench below the obvious snow/ice cone on looker's right. Climb this on moderate snow and ice to a sub-summit, and follow the summit ridge to the true summit.

Route is located on the buttress at the end of the northwest ridge of Athabasca, a few hundred meters climber’s right of the start of the Slawinski-Takeda. Locate an obvious ice smear that marks the start of the first pitch.

1. 60m, WI3 climb a smear of ice to a small snowfield and belay off screws at the start of the second pitch. Stubbies useful.

2. 30m, WI4 climb a fat vein of WI4 ice up to a rock anchor in a crack on the left. Continue up a rising rightward traverse on a snowslope for 100m around the rock buttress and up into the couloir until you run into a large, steep rock wall.

3. 45m, M5 starting from the far righthand side of the rock wall, follow the amazing left-trending crack system up into the chimney. Belay on rock anchor. Some loose rock but good gear. Classic.

4. 50m, M4 climb up then traverse left to avoid an overhanging chockstone. Continue up on mixed ground until you reach the upper couloir. Belay off rock anchor on the left. Continue to the top of the couloir and the top of The Slawinski/Takeda.

To descend, either rappel The Slawinski/Takeda or traverse right on snow slopes from the top of the couloir until possible to climb a short chimney and traverse left on snow slopes off the buttress down to the N Glacier.

An elegant line up the west shoulder of Athabasca, this route has suffered greatly from glacial recession and warming temperatures in recent years and is seldom in condition.

One of the prominent features of the peak, this route takes the easiest line up the central bowl between the north and west ridges of Athabasca. Harder routes are found to climber's right that finish up paths through and around seracs at the top of the face.

Originally given a grade of 5.9 by its first ascensionist, this route up the right-hand of two parallel chimneys is very visible from the Icefields Centre. As per the name, loose rock is common and should be planned for.

The plum line on Andromeda, this was attempted many times before finally seeing an ascent by some of the best climbers of their generation in the Rockies.

This route takes the obvious gash up the northeast face of Andromeda. Several variations are present, all culminating in a picturesque traverse to the final ice bulge and gully (shown on the cover of Selected Alpine Climbs in the Canadian Rockies).

The rising traverse from the Athabasca River to the summit of the North Twin.

Longest multi pitch in Jasper. Beautiful views, steep exposed climbing on variable rock. Generally, when the climbing gets hard, the rock quality improves. Marked alpine for the rock quality, length, and descent.

Northern Exposure guidebook has a good topo and approach beta. I am just adding some updates. Route finding was pretty easy with the descriptions provided.

All stations are now bolted (with the exception of the final pitch)

Pitch 7: 45M, 5.7R: Clip the first piton as you traverse along the horizontal break to the right. Up in the blocky, broken ground, there is a 2nd Piton hiding which substantially reduces the ground fall potential. A cam placement between the 2nd piton and the bolt should be sufficient to protect this pitch.

Pitch 10: Traverse left, placing gear (if required) until you see a bolt. Extend the bolt and begin climbing flakes, cracks and blocks on the right of the buttress. Ignore the old pitons in the middle of the face. Continue up to a big ledge and a belay station. This pitch had us simul-climbing for about 5 meters on a 70m rope.

Descent Beta: The descent is long and manageable. I had a hard time understanding the description in the guidebook. Essentially we traversed the knife-edge ridgeline to the west. Some simul-climbing, micro pitching and scrambling until we reached the far end of the ridge (approximatly 500m in length) There was some rap tat around a chossy block we used to rappel down onto the scree field on the north side of the gully. If you can get down earlier or easier than this, then I suspect it is not a problem; It just depends if you wish to traverse a ridge or scree.

Once on the scree field, pick your way down ~100m below the small, broken cliff line. At this point continue traversing right, below the cliff and above the large gullies. At some point you will reach a large scree field that you can follow the lower treeline (continuing right) to a smaller gully that will take you to join the hiking path. Walk back to the car. If in doubt, continue heading right.

Arete left of Widowmaker. Leads to the base of the Camel

Scramble up to a comfortable height 10-15m to the left of the major arete, roping up when scrambling gets harder. (p1) Climb up cracks at about 5.8 for 25m. (p2-4) Mostly 3rd class scrambling on slabby ground to gain the ridge, which is then traversed to the first headwall (p5-6) Either climb the headwall direct up the large flake and good cracks, or push through scrubby ground to a sling belay at 20m, with the option of linking into the next pitch, moving R and up to climb past small trees with possible belays. 5.7-5.9. (p7-8) 3rd class along the ridge to the final headwall. (p9) Multiple options up the final headwall, the most common being a narrow chimney with chocks around the corner to the right. Poor protection. 5.8. (p10) Traverse left to reach a short fist to hand crack on the face, with a crux move giving way to ramps with loose rock. Up easier ground to the top. Rap off the far side and escape to the Crown Mountain hiking trail.

West face couloir.

Grade: AD 5.7 (III)

A traverse of all three peaks of Triple peak. Start at the foot of the East Tower. 3 pitches of slabs and vertical bushwacking bring you to the base of a clean slabby face. The FAists went over this, while we took an exposed 5.9 traverse around the left (south) side, starting with a dihedral behind a big tree. The final pitch of the East tower follows a gearless arete. From here scramble to the top.

Exposed scrambling and one steep rappel off a root leads to snow, and eventually to the South East Ridge up the Main Tower. Scramble or climb a few pitches (two pitons protect the low fifth crux). Descend the North Ridge route with two rappels.

Traverse on snow to the col between the Main and North Tower. Follow the East Ridge route up the North Tower, which involves either vertical bushwacking or adventuring onto some handcracks out right, half way up the tower. Scrambling leads to the North Tower summit.

Follow the scramblers ridge to descend to the lake, eventually passing the right (north) side of the main gendarme on a treed ledge. Stay high at the end of the ledge to gain the backside of the gendarme. One more rappel leads to some easy snow slopes and slabs down to the lake.

Standard route up the middle peak of Triple Peak. While graded 4th class in Island Alpine, we were happy to have a rope. p1: low fifth blocky terrain from the snow to a grassy ledge, and a slung boulder. p2: up a short corner groove, then a short hand crack to a slung boulder. p3: scramble underneath a giant chockstone, then climb up and behind it. From here, scramble to the summit.

It climbs a magnificent island feature in a remote and lightly traveled zone.

"Standard route"