Ascents in The Chief

5.10b, AF Clean, psycho roof

Great little climb, glad Steve suggested I lead it instead of seconding. Do as one pitch.

Maybe the most intimidating .10b I've begun climbing into. Crux is technically pulling through the roof but really once you commit it's not so bad. Fun double cracks with lots of rests below. P1 is lame.

good around the roof

Accidently linked the p2 5.8 of boardline and strayed right at the ledge into blazing saddles p2, getting another 5.10a pitch ticked off. Was not a good idea, luckly it was easy enough to rap off a tree back the ledge, Jeff linked the final few meters of the 5.8 above the pitch with the next two pitches - making for an ultrapitch of arete, bolted and bottomless squeeze chimney peaking into desperate slab with hectic rope drag.

Great climbing! Bring a couple #4's and just keep bumping and pushing them all the way up the wide crack. It means you can bring a smaller rack. Save a .75 for the roof, then run it out to the anchors just past the lip.

Linked the 2 pitches into 1. Had horrendous rope drag but worth the thriller

Linking both pitches is really rough at the top, came off pulling over the lip. I'd recommend doing it as 2 or just bring a lot of extenders and be relatively sparing with gear.

Soooooo close, fell moving to crack at top onsight.

This one is underrated, one of the best I climbed in Squamish.

P1 + P2, 5.10b

Got the 10d pitches. Awesome. The traverse into the crack on pitch three really got the heart pumping, but the crack above was great. The crux for all of us seemed to be getting into the offwidth. Rapped the route with twin 60s in 5 raps.

This route is nails. Multiple falls but lead the .10d finger crack without too much drama. Stellar climbing will definitely return for the redpoint.

Seconded Tim who did the direct corner/undercling variation (.11c) to access the ledge. First two pitches only.

The 5.10b and 5.8 pitches only.

p1 10b lead jeff - pulled through on bolts to avoid the traverse, leading to an awesome finger crack and belay p2 lead dave onsight - leading the .8 but went right at the ledge to get a bonus 5.10a of p1 blazing saddles. Finishe by jeff

Did the first 2 pitches to reach Blazing Saddles. First 2 pitches of this climb were cool

Deserves a couple of stars, even if it does naturally go onto the trad line next to it near the top. Excellent first pitch with a fun start and slabby arete, and then a balancy start to the second pitch.

Needs a good scrubbing and to have the crack dug out again. Could be a good fun way to get to the terraces without waiting in the boarderline lineups.

What a fun line! My first v5 highball!

Should be a top 100! Great movement with an airy top out! What more could you want?

Do this route! Such a funky, balancy start, then super fun and airy up the top.

Harder than its the traverse.

Powered out at the easy top out part like 5-6 times, came back next day and easily sent 🤦🏻‍♀️

Make this a top 100 - how is this only 3 stars??