Ascents in The Chief

First pitch only as part of Stairway to Heaven. Good, fun climbing with a couple of reachy moves. Stepping left a near the top was quite a stretch!

Did as one pitch. Awesome feature, well named!

Final pitch only as part of Stairway to Heaven. A little dirty, and soaked on R side, but didn't touch anything wet until the top. A little chossy.

A nice way to get to the top. A little weird

11b, not 10c! Buggered up first shot: arse too big for crack. Second try laybacked straight through crux. Not easy, but will work with two #5s. Can also twist L side in at crux for better jams to stay in crack

Damn this shitnis hardm good to see Jeff get the top rope clean on second shot

Good fun

The best piece of stone on earth. Wait… how do you crack climb?

My best belay tick. Also the best rock climb in the universe. Time to deaden those nerve endings and practice my mono bicep curls.

Tough size. Too narrow for chicken wing. Bit wide for good knee locks. Double fist stacks. Need to return to redpoint this guy. Hardest OW I've tried to date.

TR clean. Felt easy. Going for the redpoint next time.

Scramble up the left of the routes via fixed rope to set up a TR. Bottom was amazing in approach shoes, less amazing when you get to the actual crack and can't smear.

Brilliant position. Burly start and runout but great fun.

Nice new route best reached from the top of Sunblessed. 3 pitches With a lot of cool undercling traverse roofs, and big dyke features and a nice airy feeling. First pitch was a little dirty at the start (I think we may have been the first climbers on it this year)up a crack and dyke holds till under a roof, traverse it right thin finger holds, good feet, small gear (blue alien) then around to an airy belay. On up to another roof traverse this time with better hand holds but gritty feet then awsome climbing up juggy dyke holds and nice new bolts to a more comfy belay. The last pitch starts on another roof traverse this time from right to left up a short crack then a low angle face finish with good bolts. Worth doing after Sunblessed or Enlightened for sure.

mere mortals finish....awsome

Bizarre final pitch. Flare corner. Unique!

The first pitch (5.10a) was bolted Second pitch (5.10b) trad

Crack is amazing but was so greasy in the sun. Did the 10c variation off to the left for the final pitch.

Retreat on p3.

The splitter is wild. Worth the hike just for it

Awesome route. Balancy and technical climbing in the first pitch, perfect splitter in the 2nd (take a lot of 0.5). Killer third, with a flairing crack and a hard corner.

really fun climbing, though a bit grainy

Patrick did an alternative 5.11a start pitch. Second pitch (5.10c Trad) I lead and the third pitch Patrick lead.