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Ascents of Butt Light

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Showing all 71 ascents.

Grade Route Gear style Crag Quality Climber Date
5.9 Butt Light - with Jess C
1 5.8 190m lead by Luke
2 5.5 lead by Jess C
3 5.7 lead by Luke
5 5.9 lead by Luke
6 5.8 lead by Luke
7 5.7 lead by Jess C
Mixed trad 190m, 4 Squamish Classic
Luke
Sun 7th Aug 2022
Gets a mega classic from me for the variety and unique moves - not very often you can chimney and layback at the same time. Great climbing high above the hordes on the apron and the highway noise, and you get a chance to see people crushing on the Prow Wall.

Took a #4 but couldn't find a placement on P6 (I looked), still salty about dragging it up all the way to the top. Gear is good on the climb and the two bolts on the crux pitch makes it feel much easier than other 5.9s. Thought the whole climb was soft for the grade.

 
5.9 Butt Light (The Butt Light) - with Lachlan Pearson Mixed trad 190m, 4 Squamish Very Good
Tarryn De Sylva
Wed 1st Jul 2015
Locky lead the 5.9 pitching I did the chimney. Was so tired by that point was getting mega elvis leg. 19 pitches done!

 
5.8 5.9 Butt Light (The Squamish Buttress pitches 1-4) Mixed trad 190m, 4 Squamish Very Good
Tarryn De Sylva
Wed 1st Jul 2015
Swinging leads. Was expecting the 5.7 to be harder. Kept waiting for the tricky part.

 
5.9 Butt Light (The Butt Light) Mixed trad 190m, 4 Squamish
CElliott
Sat 4th Jul 2015
Not too bad. I enjoyed the chimney. Definitely gets you thinking!

 
5.9 Butt Light (The Butt Light) - with Clara M Mixed trad 190m, 4 Squamish Classic
Adam Straw
Tue 7th Jun 2016
Awesome finish for a journey up the Chief. A bit of everything in this last section with some exposed flake pulling, scary chimney section and then some more exposed ledge walking up the top. Great day!!!

 
5.9 Butt Light (The Butt Light)
1 5.9 lead by Gavin
2 5.8 lead by Gavin
3 5.6 lead by Dan
Mixed trad 190m, 4 Squamish Classic
Gavin Smith
Thu 7th Sep 2017
Great climbing. I’d take the finger crack and traverse over the chimney given the option, but both are fun.

 
5.9 Butt Light (The Butt Light) Mixed trad 190m, 4 Squamish Very Good
Seanathon
Tue 16th Aug 2016
The chimney pitch was super neat!

 
5.8 Butt Light (The Squamish Buttress pitches 1-4) - with brett Kennedy
1
2
3
4 linkup The Butt Light
Mixed trad 190m, 4 Squamish Very Good
DaneW
Sun 11th Aug 2019
5.10a 5.9 Butt Light (The Butt Light) - with brett Kennedy Mixed trad 190m, 4 Squamish Classic
DaneW
Sun 11th Aug 2019
Final link up to finish my first lap up the chief!

15 pitches, 500+m in 8.75 hours.

Swung leads from base to top, linking some pitches

 
5.9 Butt Light (The Butt Light)
1 5.9 100m lead by T1
2 5.8 lead by T1
3 5.0
Mixed trad 100m, 4 Squamish
T1
Sat 3rd Oct 2020
No need for a #4 or #5. Chimney can be protected with a thin finger sized cam high up.

 
5.10a 5.9 Butt Light (The Butt Light) Mixed trad 190m, 4 Squamish Very Good
Reuben
Sun 7th Aug 2016
5.10a 5.9 Butt Light (The Butt Light) Mixed trad 190m, 4 Squamish Good
Brent Clark
Tue 18th Jun 2019
5.10a 5.9 Butt Light (The Butt Light) Mixed trad 190m, 4 Squamish Very Good
Michael Oldroyd
Tue 9th Apr 2019
5.9 Butt Light Mixed trad 190m, 4 Squamish
Crazy_Pete
Sun 22nd Jul 2018
5.9 Butt Light - with Marketa Hajkova Mixed trad 190m, 4 Squamish Good
Lukas Hnc
Fri 9th Jul 2021
5.9 Butt Light - with Crazy_Pete
1 5.8 190m lead by Crazy_Pete
2 5.5 lead by The Gnome
3 5.7 lead by Crazy_Pete
4 5.7 lead by The Gnome
5 5.9 lead by Crazy_Pete
6 5.8 lead by The Gnome
7 5.7 lead by Crazy_Pete
Mixed trad 190m, 4 Squamish Classic
The Gnome
Sun 1st Aug 2021
Great, especially the chimney pitch!

 
5.9 Butt Light - with Milan Ackerman
1 5.8 Second lead by Milan Ackerman

Linked with P2

2 5.5 Second lead by Milan Ackerman
3 5.7 Trad lead by Lewis

Linked with P4

4 5.7 Trad lead by Lewis
5 5.9 Second lead by Milan Ackerman
6 5.8 Trad lead by Lewis
7 5.7 Second lead by Milan Ackerman
Mixed trad 190m, 4 Squamish
Lewis
Fri 19th May 2023
5.9 Butt Light
1 5.8 Trad lead by Cruz
2 5.5 Trad lead by Cruz
3 5.7 Second
4 5.7 Second
5 5.9 Trad lead by Cruz
6 5.8 Second
7 5.7 Trad lead by Cruz
Mixed trad 190m, 4 Squamish
Cruz
Sat 3rd Jun 2023
5.9 Butt Light - with Sarah Jackson Mixed trad 190m, 4 Squamish
Nerida Ross
Wed 5th Jul 2023
Great time!

 
5.9 Butt Light - with Jean-Philippe Dumas Mixed trad 190m, 4 Squamish
Didar Ahmad
Fri 14th Jul 2023
5.9 Butt Light
1 5.8 Trad
2 5.5 Trad

Linked with P1.

3 5.7 Second
4 5.7 Second
5 5.9 Trad
6 5.8 Trad
7 5.7 Second
Mixed trad 190m, 4 Squamish
Derek Smalls
Sun 23rd Jul 2023
5.9 Butt Light - with Carleigh Burns Mixed trad 190m, 4 Squamish Very Good
Harley Mills
Fri 11th Aug 2023
Oh boy this climb can have some serious traffic jams. Had to wait for an extra 2.5 hours due to parties above

 
5.9 Butt Light Mixed trad 190m, 4 Squamish Classic
Jeff Rivard
Thu 21st Jul 2022
5.9 Butt Light - with genvieve Mixed trad 190m, 4 Squamish
Fraser
Sat 2nd Sep 2023
5.9 Butt Light Mixed trad 190m, 4 Squamish
Brandon MG
Fri 22nd Sep 2023
5.9 Butt Light
1 5.8 Trad
2 5.5 Second
3 5.7 Trad
4 5.7 Second
5 5.9 Trad
6 5.8 Second
7 5.7 Trad
Mixed trad 190m, 4 Squamish Very Good
Harvey Cutler
Fri 22nd Sep 2023
5.9 Butt Light Mixed trad 190m, 4 Squamish
Anthony Wuster
Tue 20th Jul 2021
5.9 Butt Light (The Butt Light) - with Fran Huang Mixed trad 190m, 4 Squamish Very Good
Daphne
Wed 5th Jul 2017
5.9 Butt Light (The Butt Light) - with cora
1 5.9 100m
2 5.8
3 5.0
Mixed trad 100m, 4 Squamish Mega Classic
kt
Sun 31st Mar 2019
5.8 5.9 Butt Light (The Squamish Buttress pitches 1-4) - with Char Mixed trad 190m, 4 Squamish Very Good
DaneW
Tue 6th Oct 2020
5.9 Butt Light - with Laura Mixed trad 190m, 4 Squamish
T1
Mon 2nd Aug 2021
L1-7

 
5.9 Butt Light Mixed trad 190m, 4 Squamish Very Good
Andy Sparks
Tue 31st May 2022
5.9 Butt Light (The Butt Light) Mixed trad 190m, 4 Squamish
Jarrah
Thu 21st Aug 2014
Pitch 1 and 2

 
5.9 Butt Light (The Butt Light) Mixed trad 190m, 4 Squamish Very Good
Simon Aebli
Sun 6th Aug 2017
That chimney!

 
5.9 Butt Light (The Butt Light) Mixed trad 190m, 4 Squamish
CElliott
Tue 24th Jul 2018
Guided

 
5.9 Butt Light (The Butt Light) Mixed trad 190m, 4 Squamish
CElliott
Tue 24th Jul 2018
Guided

 
5.9 Butt Light (The Butt Light) Mixed trad 190m, 4 Squamish
Neal Walker
Sat 4th Aug 2018
5.9 Butt Light (The Butt Light) Mixed trad 190m, 4 Squamish
Shahid Chew
Fri 2nd Nov 2018
5.8 5.9 Butt Light (The Squamish Buttress pitches 1-4) Mixed trad 190m, 4 Squamish
Ryan
Sat 17th Apr 2021
5.10a 5.9 Butt Light (The Butt Light) Mixed trad 190m, 4 Squamish
Ryan
Sat 17th Apr 2021
5.9 Butt Light - with Jeremy Mixed trad 190m, 4 Squamish Very Good
Dawson Maranduik
Wed 7th Jul 2021
5.9 Butt Light Mixed trad 190m, 4 Squamish Classic
bramptonboy
Sat 20th Aug 2022
5.9 Butt Light - with chris
1 5.8 190m lead by DaneW
2 5.5 lead by DaneW
3 5.7 lead by chris
4 5.7 lead by chris
5 5.9 lead by DaneW
6 5.8 lead by chris
7 5.7 lead by chris
Mixed trad 190m, 4 Squamish Very Good
DaneW
Sun 21st Aug 2022
5.9 Butt Light
1 5.8 Second
2 5.5 Second
3 5.7 Second
4 5.7 Second
5 5.9 Second
6 5.8 Second

Silly fall trying to getting up to the ledge where the chimney is. Chimney itself was very fun, take your backpack off.

7 5.7 Second
Mixed trad 190m, 4 Squamish
Em Hughes
Sun 27th Aug 2023
5.8 5.9 Butt Light (The Squamish Buttress pitches 1-4) - with dan h Mixed trad 190m, 4 Squamish Very Good
Gavin Smith
Thu 7th Sep 2017
Took an alternate start from the left. Sustained slab past several bolts (thankfully).

 
5.10a Butt Light (The Butt Light Linkup Talking Crack)
1 5.10a 100m
2 5.8
3 5.0 linkup Talking Crack
Mixed trad 100m, 4 Squamish Classic
DaneW
Tue 6th Oct 2020
5.10a 5.9 Butt Light (The Butt Light) Mixed trad 190m, 4 Squamish
Braden B
Thu 13th Aug 2020
5.8 5.9 Butt Light (The Squamish Buttress pitches 1-4) Mixed trad 190m, 4 Squamish
Braden B
Tue 20th Apr 2021
5.9 Butt Light Mixed trad 190m, 4 Squamish Very Good
Crazy_Pete
Sun 1st Aug 2021
5.9 Butt Light
3 5.7 Second
4 5.7 Second
5 5.9 Second
6 5.8 Second
7 5.7 Second
Mixed trad 190m, 4 Squamish
Kelsie Wamer
Tue 2nd May 2023
5.9 The Butt Light - with Bertin Mixed trad 190m, 4 Squamish Very Good
Daphne
Sun 1st May 2016
Half simul climb, started at 8:30pm

 
5.9 The Butt Light - with bertin Mixed trad 190m, 4 Squamish Very Good
Daphne
Sun 15th May 2016
simul

 
5.9 The Butt Light Mixed trad 190m, 4 Squamish Very Good
Daphne
Sat 3rd Jun 2017
5.9 The Butt Light Mixed trad 190m, 4 Squamish Very Good
Daphne
Sun 27th May 2018
Simul 2 blocks as there was a party ahead. Pretty casual when it’s light out

 
5.9 The Butt Light - with Will Mixed trad 190m, 4 Squamish Classic
Tim Adams
Wed 15th Aug 2018
5.9 The Butt Light - with DaneW Mixed trad 190m, 4 Squamish
Char
Sat 3rd Oct 2020
5.8 The Squamish Buttress pitches 1-4 - with DaneW Mixed trad 190m, 4 Squamish
Char
Sat 3rd Oct 2020
5.9 Butt Light Mixed trad 190m, 4 Squamish Mega Classic
Dyl_E
Sat 7th Oct 2023
5.8 The Squamish Buttress pitches 1-4 Mixed trad 190m, 4 Squamish
Andy Sparks
Mon 21st Aug 2017
5.9 Butt Light - with Harley Mills Mixed trad 190m, 4 Squamish Mega Classic
Carleigh Burns
Fri 11th Aug 2023
Bottleneck was a bit annoying but the rest was friggin siiiiiiik.

 
5.9 The Butt Light Mixed trad 190m, 4 Squamish
Vinny
Thu 12th May 2016
5.8 The Squamish Buttress pitches 1-4 Mixed trad 190m, 4 Squamish
Vinny
Thu 12th May 2016
5.9 The Butt Light - with Adam Straw
1
Mixed trad 190m, 4 Squamish Very Good
Clara M
Tue 7th Jun 2016
Incredible climb. Loved the steep flake in pitch 1, challenging enough to to make you think. Pulled a beached whale over the mantle and didn't manage to impress the soloer below. The scramble up the final pinball-machine style ledges was the icing on the cake. Beauty!

 
5.9 The Butt Light Mixed trad 190m, 4 Squamish
Andy Sparks
Mon 21st Aug 2017
5.10a The Butt Light Mixed trad 190m, 4 Squamish Classic
Haotian Liu
Wed 16th Sep 2020
5.8 The Squamish Buttress pitches 1-4 Mixed trad 190m, 4 Squamish Classic
Haotian Liu
Sat 26th Sep 2020
5.9 Butt Light - with Lukas Hnc Mixed trad 190m, 4 Squamish Very Good
Marketa Hajkova
Fri 9th Jul 2021
5.9 Butt Light Mixed trad 190m, 4 Squamish Very Good
Pink Point
Thu 2nd Sep 2021
5.9 Butt Light Mixed trad 190m, 4 Squamish
Eleo
Sat 27th Aug 2022
5.10a Butt Light (The Butt Light) - with brianna
1 5.10a 100m
2 5.8
3 5.0
Mixed trad 100m, 4 Squamish Mega Classic
kt
Sun 5th Jul 2020
5.9 Butt Light Mixed trad 190m, 4 Squamish Classic
Tom
Tue 23rd Aug 2022

Showing all 71 ascents.

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