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Node
清远英西 YingXi 彭家祠
5.10a 树根

抓树根,难度降一级

5.10c 彭家祠#10
5.10a 没出汗

初级入门线路,偏硬

5.10b 移除

第二段需使用PETZL PULSE 8mm、12mm进行攀爬

5.10a 神官垂钓 P1

结组线路的第一段

5.11b 神官垂钓

P1: 6挂片+顶,不结组只单独攀爬第一段5.10A,详见神官垂钓 P1;

P2: 8挂片+顶,第二段保护站有平台可以休息、拍照,可在此平台下降;

P3: 6挂片+顶,挑战心理素质.(在最新的图片路书上貌似没有第三段,属于第二段,但是在the crag 上原先的维护者创建了第三段,请清楚的岩友更正)

5.11b 神官垂钓 P3

挑战心理素质

5.10a 红双喜

树根右侧的一条短线

5.10b 财神到

入门线路,难点在顶部

白云山 Bai Yun Hill
白云山 Bai Yun Hill
Milky Cloud Hill
  • 路书@岩行 The crag is inside a park, which you need to pay to go in. In 2020 it costed 5 rmb. The crag is also very close to a military area (potentially inside of it), try not go through areas that are closed off and have warning signs saying it’s a military zone.
白云山 Bai Yun Hill Milky Cloud Hill
5.9 No Name
  • 路书@岩行 The crag is inside a park, which you need to pay to go in. In 2020 it costed 5 rmb. The crag is also very close to a military area (potentially inside of it), try not go through areas that are closed off and have warning signs saying it’s a military zone.
5.10d/11a Double Skin Milk
  • 路书@岩行 The crag is inside a park, which you need to pay to go in. In 2020 it costed 5 rmb. The crag is also very close to a military area (potentially inside of it), try not go through areas that are closed off and have warning signs saying it’s a military zone.
5.10c No Name 3
  • 路书@岩行 The crag is inside a park, which you need to pay to go in. In 2020 it costed 5 rmb. The crag is also very close to a military area (potentially inside of it), try not go through areas that are closed off and have warning signs saying it’s a military zone.
5.10d No Name 4
  • 路书@岩行 The crag is inside a park, which you need to pay to go in. In 2020 it costed 5 rmb. The crag is also very close to a military area (potentially inside of it), try not go through areas that are closed off and have warning signs saying it’s a military zone.
5.10c No name 5
  • 路书@岩行 The crag is inside a park, which you need to pay to go in. In 2020 it costed 5 rmb. The crag is also very close to a military area (potentially inside of it), try not go through areas that are closed off and have warning signs saying it’s a military zone.
5.11a No Name 6
  • 路书@岩行 The crag is inside a park, which you need to pay to go in. In 2020 it costed 5 rmb. The crag is also very close to a military area (potentially inside of it), try not go through areas that are closed off and have warning signs saying it’s a military zone.
5.9 Corner
  • 路书@岩行 The crag is inside a park, which you need to pay to go in. In 2020 it costed 5 rmb. The crag is also very close to a military area (potentially inside of it), try not go through areas that are closed off and have warning signs saying it’s a military zone.
5.9 Inner
  • 路书@岩行 The crag is inside a park, which you need to pay to go in. In 2020 it costed 5 rmb. The crag is also very close to a military area (potentially inside of it), try not go through areas that are closed off and have warning signs saying it’s a military zone.
5.12c 危险的快挂
  • 路书@岩行 The crag is inside a park, which you need to pay to go in. In 2020 it costed 5 rmb. The crag is also very close to a military area (potentially inside of it), try not go through areas that are closed off and have warning signs saying it’s a military zone.
5.12c Dangerous Outside Corner
  • 路书@岩行 The crag is inside a park, which you need to pay to go in. In 2020 it costed 5 rmb. The crag is also very close to a military area (potentially inside of it), try not go through areas that are closed off and have warning signs saying it’s a military zone.
5.11a G 点
  • 路书@岩行 The crag is inside a park, which you need to pay to go in. In 2020 it costed 5 rmb. The crag is also very close to a military area (potentially inside of it), try not go through areas that are closed off and have warning signs saying it’s a military zone.
5.11a 垃圾虫
  • 路书@岩行 The crag is inside a park, which you need to pay to go in. In 2020 it costed 5 rmb. The crag is also very close to a military area (potentially inside of it), try not go through areas that are closed off and have warning signs saying it’s a military zone.
5.12b Transformer
  • 路书@岩行 The crag is inside a park, which you need to pay to go in. In 2020 it costed 5 rmb. The crag is also very close to a military area (potentially inside of it), try not go through areas that are closed off and have warning signs saying it’s a military zone.
5.12a Walking around
  • 路书@岩行 The crag is inside a park, which you need to pay to go in. In 2020 it costed 5 rmb. The crag is also very close to a military area (potentially inside of it), try not go through areas that are closed off and have warning signs saying it’s a military zone.
5.11d Tiger's mouth
  • 路书@岩行 The crag is inside a park, which you need to pay to go in. In 2020 it costed 5 rmb. The crag is also very close to a military area (potentially inside of it), try not go through areas that are closed off and have warning signs saying it’s a military zone.
5.11b Nothing
  • 路书@岩行 The crag is inside a park, which you need to pay to go in. In 2020 it costed 5 rmb. The crag is also very close to a military area (potentially inside of it), try not go through areas that are closed off and have warning signs saying it’s a military zone.
5.11d Flying
  • 路书@岩行 The crag is inside a park, which you need to pay to go in. In 2020 it costed 5 rmb. The crag is also very close to a military area (potentially inside of it), try not go through areas that are closed off and have warning signs saying it’s a military zone.
白云山 Bai Yun Hill
Trash Crag
Tiger's Mouth
广州龙洞 Guangzhou Dragon Cave

In early 2024, a team of local climbers including OC Chung, Karl and Ting (OC鍾、阿康、庭哥) spent serval weekends to clean up the rocks and re-developed some climbing routes in the Mountain Dragon Cave and prepared this bouldering guide.

广州龙洞 Guangzhou Dragon Cave
Zone A

The first zone of the bouldering area.

广州龙洞 Guangzhou Dragon Cave Zone A
Bloc A1 - Welcome Bloc

The first bloc you will see on your path up to the bouldering are.这是上来抱石区后看到的第一块石头。

广州龙洞 Guangzhou Dragon Cave Zone A Bloc A1 - Welcome Bloc
V0 Welcome / 欢迎

Start from the middle of the left arete of the bloc and go up along the left arete, avoid using the other part of bloc on left. 从左侧刃脊中间起步沿刃脊直上。避免使用线路左边的另外一部分石头

V1 Welcome and sit (sds) / 欢迎坐下 (坐起)

Sit start from the lower of the left arete of the bloc and go up along the left arete, the other part of bloc on left can be use as start footholds. 从左侧刃脊下部坐起后沿左侧刃脊直上,线路左边的另外一部分石头可以用作起步脚点。

V3 Amazing Squat (sds)

Sit start from the lower of the right arete of the bloc and go straight up, avoid using the other part of bloc on left. 从左侧刃脊下部坐起后沿左侧刃脊直上,避免使用线路左边的另外一部分石头

V3 Up to You

Start from the side pull point in the middle of the bloc and go up along the left arete, avoid using the other part of bloc on left. 并手从中间侧拉点起步后沿左侧刃脊直上,避免使用线路左边的另外一部分石头

V0 Welcome Back / 欢迎回来

Start from the middle of the right arete of the bloc and go up along the right arete, avoid using the other part of bloc on right. 从右侧刃脊中间起步沿右侧刃脊直上。避免使用线路右边的另外一部分石头

广州龙洞 Guangzhou Dragon Cave Zone A
Bloc A2 - Tian’s Bloc

Marked with “TAG-16”, right behind the A1 Welcome Bloc. 石头上标有”TAG-16”字样喷漆,就在A1欢迎石后面。 Tian's Bloc named in memory of Yuan Tian, who led the development of the bouldering area in 2007, passed away in September 2023. 本石以纪念 袁天 教练,他2007年领导开发了这片抱石区域,于2023年9月逝世。

广州龙洞 Guangzhou Dragon Cave Zone A Bloc A2 - Tian’s Bloc
V3 Up to the Sky/ 指向天路

Start from the middle of the left arete of the bloc and heel hook, and go up along the left arete. 从左侧刃脊中间挂脚起步沿左侧刃脊直上。

V5 The crack

Start from the lower in the middle and the right crack of the bloc, traverse through the middle crack to left arete, and go up along the left arete. 从中部下方手点和右边裂缝上起步,横移中间裂缝到左侧刃脊直上

V6 Follow the Crack (sds) / 大蛇指路 (坐起)

Sit start from the lower in the middle and the lower crack of the bloc, straight to the right crack, traverse through the middle crack to left arete, and go up along the left arete. 从中部下方手点和下方裂缝上坐起,出右边裂缝后,横移中间裂缝到左侧刃脊直上

V1 Tian’s Back

Start from the middle of the right arete of the bloc and go up along the right arete. 从右侧刃脊中间脚起步沿右侧刃脊直上。

广州龙洞 Guangzhou Dragon Cave Zone A
Bloc A3 - Roof Bloc

Marked with “TAG-16-2”, on the left-hand site of A2 Tian’s Bloc. 石头上标有”TAG-16-2”字样喷漆,就在A2天石左手边。

广州龙洞 Guangzhou Dragon Cave Zone A Bloc A3 - Roof Bloc
V4 The Roof / 屋檐

Start from the right site of the crack in the middle, up the roof and finish by topping out. 从中间裂缝处起步,翻过屋檐并从登上顶部

广州龙洞 Guangzhou Dragon Cave Zone A
Bloc A7 - Chen’s Bloc

Near the pavilion, up to the top, mark with “陳(Chen)”. 在亭子旁边的山顶上,正面刻有“陳”字样。

广州龙洞 Guangzhou Dragon Cave Zone A Bloc A7 - Chen’s Bloc
V3 I/m Pass

Start from the middle of the right arete of the bloc, go up along the right arete, traverse to the crimp in the middle and top out. 从右侧刃脊中间脚起步沿右侧刃脊直上,横移至中间的手点后到顶。

广州龙洞 Guangzhou Dragon Cave Zone A
Bloc A9 – Secret Bloc

PDF Guidebook can be download at: 【PDF路书下载地址】 https://chungtszching.github.io/Guangzhouboulder/Guangzhou_Dragon_Cave_Bouldering_Guide.pdf

This is a public park with no entrance fee charged.公园免费 Please respect local custom. There are some ancient tombs in the mountain, try not to disturb the tombs of local ancestors. Leave No Trace. 请尊重当地风俗习惯,山上有些古墓,请尽量不要打扰到这些先人的墓地。请遵循LNT原则。

广州龙洞 Guangzhou Dragon Cave Zone A Bloc A9 – Secret Bloc
V5 I will do it next time / 磕代表

Start from two holds in the middle of the bloc, move to the left platform, go up to the middle of the top and top out finish. 从石头中间两个手点起步,移动到左边平台后上到顶部中间结束。

广州龙洞 Guangzhou Dragon Cave
Zone B

Go up along the path around 50m from Zone A and will reach another peak, Zone B is on the left-hand site of the path, there are four blocs here. 从A区沿着登山步道往上继续走,先翻过一个没有石头的小顶,然后下一个有石头的山顶步道左右边就是B区。

广州龙洞 Guangzhou Dragon Cave Zone B
Bloc B1 - Chung’s Bloc

The first bloc on left site, need to go down a little, the routes are on the back site of the bloc.左边第一块石头,需要往下走一点点,线路在石头的后面。

广州龙洞 Guangzhou Dragon Cave Zone B Bloc B1 - Chung’s Bloc
V3 Attention

Start from the middle of the left arete of the bloc and go up along the left arete, avoid using the other part of bloc on left. 从左侧刃脊中间起步沿刃脊上转到正面登顶,可以使用正面的手点包括点a和点b。

V4 Tension

Start from the middle of the left arete of the bloc and go up along the left arete, avoid using any hold on the face including hold a and b. 从左侧刃脊中间起步沿刃脊直上,避免使用正面的手点包括点a和点b。

V3 The Pump / 泵

Start from the middle of the right arete of the bloc and a hold on the right site of the face, go up along the right arete and top out。从右侧侧刃脊中间及正面右手边一个手点起步,沿右刃脊上到顶。

V4 Pump Attention

Start from the middle of the left arete of the bloc and go up along the left arete, traverse through holds on the face including point a and left start point of line 3, then top out from right arete. 从左侧刃脊中间起步沿刃脊直上,横移通过正面的手点a和3号线左手起点,然后沿右刃脊上到顶。

V4 Left Pump / 左泵

Start from the middle of the right arete of the bloc and a hold on the left site of the face, go up along the right arete and top out。从右侧侧刃脊中间及正面右手边一个手点起步,沿右刃脊上到顶。

V5 Tension Low (sds)

Sit down start from the lower hold of the left arete of the bloc and go up along the left arete, avoid using any hold on the face including hold a and b. 从左侧刃脊下部手点坐式起步后沿左刃脊直上,避免使用正面的手点包括点a和点b。

广州龙洞 Guangzhou Dragon Cave Zone B
Bloc B2 - Puppy Bloc

The middle bloc right next to B1 Chung’s Bloc.

广州龙洞 Guangzhou Dragon Cave Zone B Bloc B2 - Puppy Bloc
V2 Hug the Puppy (sds) / 抱抱狗仔 (坐起)

Sit down start from hugging the bloc with left hand on a lower hold, right hand on the arete, and the small rock down the right side can be used as footholds. Keep hugging and move up and top out. Try to use the undercut handhold on the left. 坐式起步左手握一下下方的手点,右手抓刃脊抱住石头,右边下面的一块小石头可以用作起步脚点,一直抱往上,直到翻过石头。尽量用上左手边的反提手点。

V2 Hand or Fist

Start in the middle of the crack on left with hand jam or fist jam, go along with the crack and top out. 从左边裂缝中间使用胀手或胀拳起步,沿裂缝往上翻过石头。

V5 Laughing Gor (sds) / 老地方见 (坐起)

Sit down start from two handholds in the middle of right side, go up to a small roof, move right and top out. 从右边中间两个手点坐起,直上到小屋檐后移动到右边,翻顶结束。(This is a slightly harder route on the Bloc B2 Puppy Bloc)

广州龙洞 Guangzhou Dragon Cave Zone B
Bloc B3 – Ting’s Bloc

The lower bloc right next to Bloc B1 and B2.

广州龙洞 Guangzhou Dragon Cave Zone B Bloc B3 – Ting’s Bloc
V4 King of Boulder / 抱石大王

Start from two handholds on the low of the right arete of the rock, pump up and go alone with the right arete and top out. 从右侧刃脊下方两个手点起步,拉起后沿右侧刃脊到顶结束。

V1 14 ans Joyeux anniversaire Fidji / 肥鸡14岁生日快乐

Start from a good handhold in the right side of the right arete of the rock, and go alone with the right arete and top out. 从右侧刃脊边上一个大点起步,沿右侧刃脊到顶结束。

V3 Cucumber / 黄瓜

Start from a good handhold in the right or middle of the right arete of the rock, Gaston to a crimp handhold in the middle of left face, match hands, go alone with the left arete and top out. If your arm span not allowing you start from the right site of the arete and do the Gaston, you can move up a few inch to start.从右侧刃脊边上中间一个大点起步,反肩到达左边一个小点并手,沿左侧刃脊到顶结束。如果你的臂展不足以让你从最后边起步后反肩,你可以往上移动几英寸起步。

广州龙洞 Guangzhou Dragon Cave Zone B
Bloc B4 – Kid’s Bloc

The bloc on the other site to Bloc B1.

广州龙洞 Guangzhou Dragon Cave Zone B Bloc B4 – Kid’s Bloc
V0 Kindergarten (sds) / 幼儿园 (坐起)

Sit down start on two handholds in the middle, go left then top out. The bloc is small, please try not to directly go up in the middle.从中间两处手点坐起,走右边然后到顶。石头比较小,请尽量不要从中间直接上到顶。

广州龙洞 Guangzhou Dragon Cave Zone B
Bloc B5 – Discovery Blocs

Go down through a small path next to Bloc B4 Kid’s Bloc, you will see this two connected blocs’ group. 从B4石旁边小路下去,你会看到这相连的两个石头一组。

广州龙洞 Guangzhou Dragon Cave Zone B Bloc B5 – Discovery Blocs
V2 Discovery Channel / 探索频道

Start on a crimp handhold on left and the bottom of the vertical crack, go up alone the crack or go alone left side and top out, without using the tree. 从左边一个小点和垂直裂缝下端起步,沿着裂缝一直往上翻过石头结束或者从左边上去翻过石头结束,不要使用树。

V2 Strawberry Cake / 草莓蛋糕

Start with all your hands and feet on the one point, trapped into the space between the rocks and face outward, then use the hold inside to turn around and top out with hands mantling. 面向观众手脚四肢一点起步,使用石头中间的手点转身然后上反撑翻上石头结束。

V1 Discovery Cucumber / 青瓜

Start on a under cut handhold on left and a small hold in the middle, go up to a jug on the right and top out. 从左边下方一个小反提点和中间一个小点起步,从右边一个大点翻上石头结束。

广州龙洞 Guangzhou Dragon Cave
Zone C

PDF Guidebook can be download at: 【PDF路书下载地址】 https://chungtszching.github.io/Guangzhouboulder/Guangzhou_Dragon_Cave_Bouldering_Guide.pdf

This is a public park with no entrance fee charged.公园免费 Please respect local custom. There are some ancient tombs in the mountain, try not to disturb the tombs of local ancestors. Leave No Trace. 请尊重当地风俗习惯,山上有些古墓,请尽量不要打扰到这些先人的墓地。请遵循LNT原则。

广州龙洞 Guangzhou Dragon Cave Zone C
Bloc C1 - Round Bloc

The first bloc on left of the path of the first peak from Zone B, Zone C start from here. B区过来第一个山头上第一块石头。C区从这里开始。

广州龙洞 Guangzhou Dragon Cave Zone C Bloc C1 - Round Bloc
V0 Just Do It (sds) / 站起来就有 (坐起)

Sit start from the right of the bloc, the small part of the bloc on right can be used as start foothold, climb up along the right arete and top out. 由石头右边坐起,右下方的小石部分可以用作起步脚点,沿右脊登顶。

V1 Around the Bloc (sds) / 转圈圈 (坐起)

Sit start from the side facing the path of the bloc, spread your hands or just match hand on right handhold will be ok, climb around the round to left side of the bloc, top out after you turn opposite site. 从石头面向小路这面坐起,分开手点起步或者右手点并手起步都可以,环绕着石头攀爬,爬到对面的一面翻顶完成。

V0 Move Your Car (sds) / 挪车 (坐起)

Sit start from the left of the bloc, climb up along the left arete and top out. 由石头左边坐起,沿左脊登顶。

广州龙洞 Guangzhou Dragon Cave Zone C
Bloc C2 - Egg Bloc

The bloc on left site behind Bloc C1, the upper part looks like a soy egg. 就在C1石后面,石头上面部分看起来像一颗卤蛋。

广州龙洞 Guangzhou Dragon Cave Zone C Bloc C2 - Egg Bloc
V0 Caution Fart / 别放气

Bend your body and start from the right of the bloc, heel hook then top out. 折叠你的身体从右边起步,挂脚然后爬上去到顶。

V0 Too Wet (sds) / 大湿 (坐起)

Sit start from the lower undercut handholds, use the hold on the right and go straight up and top. It is a V0 if you use the lower part of the bloc to sit start. Try to use only the upper part of the bloc (looks like an egg) to sit start, you will become a real "master" instead. 使用较低的反提点坐起,使用右边的手点直上到顶。使用下半部分石头坐起难度是V0。可以尝试只使用上半部分像卤蛋的石头坐起,你会成为真正的"大师"而不是"大湿"。

广州龙洞 Guangzhou Dragon Cave Zone C
Bloc C4 – S Bloc

Go alone the path, don’t turn right in the cross and you will see a bloc with a S-shape crack on left side of the path. 继续沿着小路直走,路口处不要右转,然后你会看到这个有S形裂缝的石头在小路的左手边。

广州龙洞 Guangzhou Dragon Cave Zone C Bloc C4 – S Bloc
V1 S for Secretary (sds) /书记 (坐起)

Sit down start from two handholds one in the middle and one in the S-shape crack. Climb up alone the crack and top out using the small platform in the middle. 坐式起步一手握中间手点一手握S形裂缝中,沿着裂缝往上攀爬,最后使用中间的小平台到顶结束。

深圳 Shenzhen
深圳 Shenzhen
马峦山 Maluanshan

All routes are fairly challenging, especially if you don't have experience climbing slabs. Rock faces east-south, so exposed to the sun during the entire day. The area around and approach is quite bouldery so make sure to wear proper shoes (no slippers!)

深圳 Shenzhen 马峦山 Maluanshan
5.9 1
5.10b 2
5.11 3
5.10a 4

Climbing between the first and second bolt is not easy, so highly recommend using a clip stick for clipping to second bolt from the ground (it's about 3 meters from the ground)

5.11c 5
春湾 Chun Wan
春湾 Chun Wan
Candle Tower
Qing Yun Temple
Twins Peak
珠海 Zhuhai
珠海 Zhuhai
九州岛 Jiuzhou Island

Bouldering

珠海 Zhuhai 九州岛 Jiuzhou Island
码头角

20 minutes by boat from the Jiuzhou port.

珠海 Zhuhai 九州岛 Jiuzhou Island 码头角
V0 横财到手

20 minutes by boat from the Jiuzhou port.

V1 好望角

20 minutes by boat from the Jiuzhou port.

V1 钢管舞

20 minutes by boat from the Jiuzhou port.

Project

20 minutes by boat from the Jiuzhou port.

V1 热身线

20 minutes by boat from the Jiuzhou port.

Showing 301 - 400 out of 515 nodes.

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