Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Sun 14th Apr 2024 - 清远英西 YingXi | |||||||
公正村 大庙周边 白璧 White crag | |||||||
5.8 | ★ Magic Slippers | 9m, 4 | |||||
5.12a | ★★ 伸手就有 — 3 attempts - with gong heqing, 海涛 | 22m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
第二天的第一把发现原来有两个好脚点,斜面就不该踩,直接踩洞巨稳,beta优化了
第二把脑子糊涂了难点beta错了,掉了
第三把难点掉了,但后半段的心理压力被我克服了,快了,真的快红了
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5.10a | ★★ Sensible shoes - with Dr Bai | 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
大点简单 一把
|
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Sat 13th Apr 2024 - 清远英西 YingXi | |||||||
公正村 大庙周边 白璧 White crag | |||||||
5.12a | ★★ 伸手就有 — 2 attempts - with gong heqing | 22m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
第二把很想软弱一次,问龚老师可不可以跟攀一把试试能不能顶红,被驳回了呜呜呜,只要到了比原计划多休息18分钟,心灵马杀鸡后这一把很顺,感觉自己有力的可怕,但拍到难点踩斜面连续四次脚滑,彻底绷不住,甚至吊在半空讲了几句话,掉下来,必须挨骂。
第三把状态不太好,每把挂都入,难点入挂挣扎了好一会,入完没力,去下一个右手点脚滑,冲了,这条线有两把挂都可以不入
|
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5.12a | ★★ 伸手就有 - with gong heqing | 22m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
线路很快分完,但心理过于软弱,难点一抓到压力就会上来
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5.11c ~5.11b | ★★ Lions, Tigers and Bears Oh My ! | 22m, 8 | |||||
有点easy喔
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Mon 1st Apr 2024 - 清远英西 YingXi | |||||||
公正村 大庙周边 白璧 White crag | |||||||
5.12a | ★★ 伸手就有 - with reiko climber | 22m | |||||
5.12c | ★★★ Orangina - with reiko climber, 大坝 | 21m | |||||
5.10b | ★★ 闭幕式(Closing Ceremony) - with reiko climber | 12m, 5 | |||||
5.9 | ★★ I'll get you my pretty - with reiko climber | ||||||
warm up
|
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Sat 2nd Mar 2024 - 清远英西 YingXi | |||||||
公正村 大庙周边 白璧 White crag | |||||||
5.11c Easy | ★★ Lions, Tigers and Bears Oh My ! — 2 attempts | 22m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.8 Hard | ★★ Dyslexia | 22m, 8 | ★ Good | ||||
Sun 25th Feb 2024 - 清远英西 YingXi | |||||||
公正村 大庙周边 白璧 White crag | |||||||
5.10b ~5.10a | ★★ 闭幕式(Closing Ceremony) — 2 attempts - with Dr Bai | 12m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
点挺大的
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5.11a ~5.10d | ★★ Flying Monkey Business — 2 attempts - with 老白 | 22m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
线路质量挺好 偏软 第一把take摸了下 第二把红点
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5.9 | ★ Lysdexia | 22m, 7 | ★ Good | ||||
5.9 | ★★ I'll get you my pretty | ★ Good | |||||
Fri 16th Feb 2024 - 清远英西 YingXi | |||||||
公正村 大庙周边 白璧 White crag | |||||||
5.9 | ★★ I'll get you my pretty | ||||||
5.8 | ★ Magic Slippers | 9m, 4 | |||||
5.8 | ★★ Toto | 10m, 6 | |||||
5.8 | ★ Magic Slippers | 9m, 4 | |||||
Sun 21st Jan 2024 - 清远英西 YingXi | |||||||
公正村 大庙周边 白璧 White crag | |||||||
5.12a Easy | ★★ 伸手就有 — 3 attempts | 22m | |||||
清远版: 八年抗战,动作都差不多。。。
|
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5.11c | ★★ Yellow Brick Road | 22m, 11 | |||||
好多很好的胀手点,哈哈,会传统攀爬起来好轻松
|
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Sun 21st Jan 2024 - 清远英西 YingXi | |||||||
公正村 大庙周边 大庙 Big Temple Crag | |||||||
5.12a | ★★★ 牛杂 — 2 attempts - with 小高 | 14 | |||||
第一条12
|
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5.11a/b | ★★ 铁扇公主 - with 小高 | 17m, 8 | |||||
5.11a | ★★★ 水脊 — 2 attempts - with 小高 | 16m, 6 | |||||
第一条11
|
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Sun 14th Jan 2024 - 清远英西 YingXi | |||||||
公正村 大庙周边 白璧 White crag | |||||||
5.10b | ★★ 虎虎生威 - with gong heqing, Areswu | 130m | ★ Good | ||||
第四段下降要注意,容易错过站;容易卡绳
|
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5.12a ~5.11d | ★★ 三岔口(Forked Road) | 21m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
知道beta后挺简单的
|
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5.11c/d ~5.11b | ★★ 白壁1 | 17m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sat 13th Jan 2024 - 清远英西 YingXi | |||||||
公正村 大庙周边 白璧 White crag | |||||||
5.10a |
★★ 虎虎生威
1
5.10a
2
5.9
3
5.10a
| 130m | |||||
爬了三段
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Wed 3rd Jan 2024 - 清远英西 YingXi | |||||||
公正村 大庙周边 白璧 White crag | |||||||
5.11c | ★★ Yellow Brick Road - with Bobo@Mental Rock climbing cafe | 22m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
5.10b | ★★ 闭幕式(Closing Ceremony) - with Bobo@Mental Rock climbing cafe | 12m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.10b Easy | ★★ 闭幕式(Closing Ceremony) - with 王禾禾· | 12m, 5 | |||||
Mon 1st Jan 2024 - 清远英西 YingXi | |||||||
公正村 大庙周边 白璧 White crag | |||||||
5.11a ~5.10d | ★★ Flying Monkey Business — 2 attempts - with LynneHong | 22m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
对小个子来说是不错的练习技术的线路,先锋挂线动态抓错点,没有onsight,实际可能是10c/d,动作可以做的很帅,第二把速攀完成,啊,还见证了小洪的第一次野外dyno,帅气
|
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5.10b | ★★ 闭幕式(Closing Ceremony) - with LynneHong | 12m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
新线,crag更新真快
|
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5.11a | ★★ Flying Monkey Business — 4 attempts - with 不上v6不改名 | 22m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
翻上平台那两步是个难点,学习搭档的beta(适合小矮人),折膝出右手拍小坡面,然后脚稍微上高后勇敢一跳出左手拍平台,其实并不是很远,想象自己是在抱石就没那么害怕了。可惜的是耐力太渣,后面怎么都无法连起来(因为小坡面蛮难拍的,要么是拍不住,要么是拍住了dyno动作却变形了),也没时间了,没能红线,回去真的要猛练耐力了,下次一定。
|
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5.10b | ★★ 闭幕式(Closing Ceremony) - with 不上v6不改名 | 12m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sat 16th Dec 2023 - 清远英西 YingXi | |||||||
公正村 大庙周边 白璧 White crag | |||||||
5.10a | ★★ Sensible shoes - with Ki | 3 | |||||
我好想onsight10a啊
|
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Sat 16th Dec 2023 - 清远英西 YingXi | |||||||
公正村 大庙周边 大庙 Big Temple Crag | |||||||
5.11c | ★★★ 金不换 — 2 attempts - with Ki | 22m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
2个休息点可以回满血
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Sat 16th Dec 2023 - 清远英西 YingXi | |||||||
公正村 大庙周边 白璧 White crag | |||||||
5.12a | ★★★ 绞肉机 — 3 attempts - with Ki | 8 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
大降温下打卡网红软12a,心满意足,2023收官之作。
|
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Sat 16th Dec 2023 - 清远英西 YingXi | |||||||
公正村 大庙周边 大庙 Big Temple Crag | |||||||
5.10b | ★★ The Root of All Evil - with Dr Bai | 20m, 9 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
非常快乐
|
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5.11c R ~5.11b | ★★ Road Rage 路怒 - with Dr Bai | 39m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sat 16th Dec 2023 - 清远英西 YingXi | |||||||
公正村 大庙周边 白璧 White crag | |||||||
5.9 | ★★ Oktoberfest - with Dr Bai | 8m, 3 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
高质量5.9
|
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5.12a ~5.11d | ★★★ 绞肉机 - with Dr Bai | 8 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
走过路过再爬一次绞肉机,没想到一把就红线了。
|
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Sat 9th Dec 2023 - 清远英西 YingXi | |||||||
公正村 大庙周边 白璧 White crag | |||||||
5.11c | ★★ Yellow Brick Road — 2 attempts - with reiko climber | 22m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
really nice route!
|
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Sat 9th Dec 2023 - 清远英西 YingXi | |||||||
公正村 大庙周边 大庙 Big Temple Crag | |||||||
5.11c |
★★ Road Rage 路怒
- with
蛋蛋
1
5.10d
15m
2
5.11c
14m
| 29m, 8 | |||||
5.10c | ★★ Mop Head (Direct Start) - with CJ | 17m, 7 | |||||
5.10b | ★★ The Root of All Evil - with 摸鱼专业户 | 20m, 9 | |||||
Tue 5th Dec 2023 - 清远英西 YingXi | |||||||
公正村 大庙周边 大庙 Big Temple Crag | |||||||
5.13b | ★★★ 流水线 - with 蒋俊文 | 25m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
The fisrt 5.13 one i sent .no limit to climb beyond ur ability but mentality.
What i suprised to myself that i challenge myself get though the crux and clip in after ,by underneathe waist.
|
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Sun 3rd Dec 2023 - 清远英西 YingXi | |||||||
公正村 大庙周边 白璧 White crag | |||||||
5.8 | ★ Magic Slippers - with reiko climber | 9m, 4 | |||||
5.11c | ★★ Yellow Brick Road — 2 attempts - with reiko climber | 22m, 11 | |||||
Sun 3rd Dec 2023 - 清远英西 YingXi | |||||||
公正村 大庙周边 大庙 Big Temple Crag | |||||||
5.12a | ★★★ 牛杂 — 3 attempts - with reiko climber | 14 | |||||
Sun 3rd Dec 2023 - 清远英西 YingXi | |||||||
公正村 大庙周边 白璧 White crag | |||||||
5.12a | ★★ 伸手就有 - with 帅哥 | 22m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
单步难点, 动作顾名思义, 个子不太矮的话属于好捏的12
|
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5.10 | ★★ unknown | 15m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
钟乳石难点理顺动作,爬过第一个大平台后很多休息点
|
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5.8 | ★★ Toto | 10m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
5.8 | ★ Magic Slippers | 9m, 4 | |||||
Sat 2nd Dec 2023 - 清远英西 YingXi | |||||||
公正村 大庙周边 白璧 White crag | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Toto | 10m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.8 | ★ Magic Slippers | 9m, 4 | |||||
Sat 2nd Dec 2023 - 清远英西 YingXi | |||||||
公正村 大庙周边 大庙 Big Temple Crag | |||||||
5.7 | ★★ Crusty P1 | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
5.8 Easy | ★★ 大庙2 | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
5.7 ~5.8 | ★ 大庙1 | 16m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.7 | ★★ Crusty P1 | 15m, 6 | |||||
5.7 ~5.9 | ★ 大庙1 | 16m, 7 | |||||
5.8 | ★★ 大庙2 | 15m, 4 | |||||
5.9 ~5.10a | ★★ Alter Ego | 15m | |||||
5.7 ~5.9 | ★ 大庙1 | 16m, 7 | |||||
5.7 | ★★ Crusty P1 | 15m, 6 | |||||
5.10a | ★★ 金刚波 King Kong | 15m, 8 | |||||
5.8 | ★★ 大庙2 | 15m, 4 | |||||
5.7 ~5.9 | ★ 大庙1 | 16m, 7 | |||||
Fri 1st Dec 2023 - 清远英西 YingXi | |||||||
公正村 大庙周边 大庙 Big Temple Crag | |||||||
5.11c | ★★★ 牛C - with 阿基米德的洗浴池 | 18m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Mon 27th Nov 2023 - 清远英西 YingXi | |||||||
公正村 大庙周边 白璧 White crag | |||||||
5.10a | ★★ Sensible shoes — 3 attempts - with Guan-Wei Chen | 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
第一次攀岩的时候摸过一次,这次终于把ta也收下啦
|
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5.12a | Gear on ★★★ 绞肉机 — 8 attempts - with Guan-Wei Chen | 8 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
过难点那个大洞休息点如果不懂如何正确卡脚休息的话,很容易把脚卡住解不出来,没有看上去那么好休息。由于第一次在哪里休息的时候把脚卡在里面,卡了很久才脱出来,最后决定放弃那个休息点,反而很顺的出手过了下一个难点!第一条12a到手~ yeyi~
|
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Sun 26th Nov 2023 - 清远英西 YingXi | |||||||
公正村 大庙周边 大庙 Big Temple Crag | |||||||
5.11a/b | Gear on ★★ 铁扇公主 — 6 attempts - with reiko climber | 17m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
国庆来爬这条线还觉得难到不行上不去,用了两个周末找到了好的beta,这次周末4把红了。找到好的beta还是轻松不少的。
|
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5.13b | ★★ 牛尾 — 4 attempts - with cj | ||||||
印象深刻的难点,可能有v5v6
|
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5.11c | ★★★ 金不换 | 22m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sun 26th Nov 2023 - 清远英西 YingXi | |||||||
公正村 大庙周边 白璧 White crag | |||||||
5.9 | ★★ I'll get you my pretty - with reiko climber | ||||||
5.10a | ★★ Sensible shoes - with reiko climber | 3 | |||||
5.11a ~5.10c | ★★ Flying Monkey Business - with reiko climber | 22m | |||||
5.9 | ★★ I'll get you my pretty | ||||||
好长啊!名字真好听。
|
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5.11c/d | ★★ 白壁1 | 17m, 9 | |||||
平台难点过不去,其它地方找到动作感觉都不难,下次再试。
|
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Sun 26th Nov 2023 - 清远英西 YingXi | |||||||
公正村 大庙周边 大庙 Big Temple Crag | |||||||
5.10d |
★★ Road Rage 路怒 P1
- with
元军
1
5.10d
15m
| 15m, 8 | |||||
Sun 26th Nov 2023 - 清远英西 YingXi | |||||||
公正村 大庙周边 白璧 White crag | |||||||
5.11c/d | ★★ 白壁1 - with reiko climber | 17m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sat 25th Nov 2023 - 清远英西 YingXi | |||||||
公正村 大庙周边 白璧 White crag | |||||||
5.11c | ★★ Yellow Brick Road - with 佳乐 | 22m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
一条温柔的线路,小难点前中间有平台休息
|
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Sat 25th Nov 2023 - 清远英西 YingXi | |||||||
公正村 大庙周边 大庙 Big Temple Crag | |||||||
5.9 | ★★ Alter Ego | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.8 | ★★ 大庙2 | 15m, 4 | |||||
5.10b | ★★ The Root of All Evil - with 白雪 | 20m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
翻屋檐右手再找找点
|
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Sat 25th Nov 2023 - 清远英西 YingXi | |||||||
公正村 大庙周边 白璧 White crag | |||||||
5.11c | ★★ Yellow Brick Road — 2 attempts - with 白雪 | 22m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
没有很难的地方,一把take一把脚滑冲了,难点哪里open点抓不住,换成左手扣扣右手open点过渡一下连出,下次再红掉吧
|
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5.12c | ★★★ Orangina - with 白雪 | 21m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
有两个难点哪怕在抱石馆现在也过不了
|
|||||||
5.9 | ★ Lysdexia - with reiko climber | 22m, 7 | |||||
★ right-unnamed - with reiko climber | 4 | ★ Good | |||||
around 5.10c/d
|
|||||||
5.11c | ★★ Lions, Tigers and Bears Oh My ! - with reiko climber | 22m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sat 25th Nov 2023 - 清远英西 YingXi | |||||||
公正村 大庙周边 大庙 Big Temple Crag | |||||||
5.11a | ★★★ 水脊 - with Irene020 | 16m, 6 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
攀岩半年左右的时候开始爬这条线,一直磕磕巴巴,深陷在为什么自己进步这么慢为什么自己这么弱什么时候才能大胆先锋的难受情绪之中,之后停了一年再也不想摸这条线。现在攀岩两年多了,大概明白了对自己来说要克服先锋的恐惧,还需要很漫长很漫长的时间,干脆把跟攀完攀每条线当成暂时的目标,重新爬了这条线,花了两个周末爬了几把之后终于完成了。完成的时候我居然没有哭,还很平静,觉得哇原来翻过这个小屋檐、原来左手指洞上脚右手拍大点并没有那么累。一时间不知道一周前还觉得累到不行到底是心理的暗示还是什么呢。好开心啊!!!
|
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5.11a/b | ★★ 铁扇公主 - with 元军 | 17m, 8 | |||||
5.10c | ★★ Mop Head (Direct Start) | 17m, 7 | |||||
Sat 25th Nov 2023 - 清远英西 YingXi | |||||||
公正村 大庙周边 白璧 White crag | |||||||
5.12a ~5.11d | ★★ 伸手就有 | 22m | |||||
难点不错,其他一般,2把
|
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Tue 21st Nov 2023 - 清远英西 YingXi | |||||||
公正村 大庙周边 白璧 White crag | |||||||
5.12a Easy | ★★★ 绞肉机 | 8 | |||||
5.9 | ★★ Oktoberfest | 8m, 3 | |||||
Tue 21st Nov 2023 - 清远英西 YingXi | |||||||
公正村 大庙周边 大庙 Big Temple Crag | |||||||
5.11a | ★★★ 水脊 | 16m, 6 | |||||
5.9 | ★★ Alter Ego | 15m | |||||
5.10a | ★★ 金刚波 King Kong | 15m, 8 |