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Totem

  • Grade context: SX
  • Ascents: 6

Seasonality

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F
M
A
M
J
J
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S
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D

Access issues inherited from Levý břeh

As of May 2022, according to the Ranger, parking is NOT allowed along the narrow left-bank street. There are only a few places at the ferry in Dolní Žleb. Don't drive to the center of Dolní Žleb (behind railroad) and don't block the road. Arrival via ferry is preferred as the Left-bank street to Děčín is very narrow. Local train operates frequently to Děčín and Bad Schandau with plenty of free parking places in both cities' train stations.

Ethic inherited from Labské údolí

  1. Climbing is only allowed on dry rock.

  2. No changing of the rock surface.

  3. No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the ring/bolts may only be filled with slings. UFOs (textile friends) are allowed.

  4. No toproping if it may damage rock or fixed protection (allowed if you use own quickdraw as anchor point AND there is no rope friction with rock).

  5. First ascents only after approval of the area administrator Labske udoli first ascent rules and contact is spravce-labak-pravy@seznam.cz for right side, spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz for left side.

  6. Strict ban of using not-approved fixed equipment such as OBI "Gerüstöse".

Routes

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Grade Route

Dangerous! J stěnou přes 2K ke slaňovacímu BH.

Set: Kurt Locher & M.Krauskopf, 1990

Od 1. BH cesty "Bezstarostný větroplach" mírně vlevo a vzhůru přes 5 BH ke sl.BH.

Set: Pavel Rýva, J.Ježek & J.Rejf, 2011

Vlevo od „JV komína“ přes 5BH, výše stěnou přes 6.BH ke slaňovacímu BH.

Set: Pavel Rýva, Zdeněk Němec & J.Rejf, 2011

Od JV komínem na vrchol.

Set: Vladislav Nehasil & J.Prášek, 1989

Severovýchodní hranou 2BH a výše stěnou přes 5 BH ke sl.BH.

Set: Pavel Rýva, J.Ježek & J.Rejf, 2011

Z údolí stěnou do levé spáry a tou na její konec, dále tupou hranou (hodiny) k 1. BH, stěnou ke 2. BH a vpravo do spáry "Tašunka" a jí ke 2. K a na vrchol ke sl.BH.

Set: Pavel Rýva & O.Jetmar, 2011

Z údolí spárou na její konec k 1.K. Vlevo za hranu do spáry, jí a stěnou ke 2.K. Přes převis n.v.

Set: Vladislav Nehasil & Milan Krauskopf, 1989

Od 1.K cesty "Tašunka" stěnou přímo přes 2K na vrchol.

Set: Petr Slanina, S.Lukavský & J.Voves, 1996

Vpravo od "Tašunka" šikmou spárou ke K. Traverz doprava, vzhůru na šikmou lavici, po ní vlevo na hranu a tou (2.K) na vrchol.

FA: Petr Slanina a Stanislav Lukavský, 1996

Koutem mezi "Totem" a levým pilířem Indiánky přes bh, koutem k 5 bh od cesty Medvědí hlava doleva kouty přes 3 bh ke slan.bh.

Set: Chris-Jan Stiller & U.Eckert, 2013

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Gerald Krug & Jörg Andreas

Date: 2019

ISBN: 9783981951516

This is a selective guidebook describing the rock climbing in the Labske Udoli region (or Labak in short), located in the northern part of the Czech Republic near the town of Děčín, covering over 2,200 trad and sport routes.

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Mon 15 May
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