Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
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Sat 10th Oct 2020 - Lourmarin | |||||||
LE GROS MATELOT RITZOU | |||||||
8c+ 8c | ★★★ Darwin Dans La Cave (José pine le gardien dans la cave) | ★★★ Classic | |||||
4 try
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Fri 9th Oct 2020 - Venasque | |||||||
Saint Pierre La Réserve La maison troglodyte / the house in the cave | |||||||
7a | ★★ Térapiraté - with chou chou halperin | 20m | |||||
Took 2 whippers trying to get the reachy move at the top.
I fell higher on the second try because I didn't work the move higher and didn't fight the pump.
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Fri 9th Oct 2020 - Venasque | |||||||
Saint Pierre Escalier d'entrée Côté gauche | |||||||
6b | ★ Katmandou - with chou chou halperin | ||||||
Slopers and balancey moves. Doing it hoping to get better at it
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6b+ | ★★ Pokhara - with chou chou halperin | ||||||
Great climb very balancey. Trying to improve at it
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Fri 9th Oct 2020 - Venasque | |||||||
Saint Pierre Escalier d'entrée Atout cœur | |||||||
6c+ | ★★★ Bas de plafond (directe) - with chou chou halperin | 22m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Great climb. Didn't want to lead it because of the potential fall on the big Oak behind.
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Fri 9th Oct 2020 - Venasque | |||||||
Saint Pierre La Réserve Mur vertical | |||||||
6b+ | ★★ Séance nocturne | ★★ Very Good | |||||
RP 2nd go. No chalk on the route = hit all the wrong holds = way too pumped o/s. Clipping the 3rd or 4th bolt felt a little sketchy and may result in a ground fall.
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Fri 9th Oct 2020 - Venasque | |||||||
Saint Pierre Escalier d'entrée Côté gauche | |||||||
6b | ★ Katmandou | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Sloping technical fun. Looks mediocre but climbs very well. I especially enjoyed the cross move.
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Thu 8th Oct 2020 - Venasque | |||||||
Saint Pierre Escalier d'entrée Atout cœur | |||||||
6a | ★ La vie sur mars - with chou chou halperin | 20m | |||||
Nice warm up although it felt a bit wet.
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6b | ★★ Back to front | ||||||
Warmup. I tried to boulder the crux direct (not a warmup! but fun).
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6c+ | ★★★ Bas de plafond (directe) | 22m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
RP second go. Tricky beta on the first two bulges makes for a very interesting and worthwhile climb. The final pocketed bulge is the icing on the cake.
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Thu 8th Oct 2020 - Venasque | |||||||
Saint Pierre Escalier d'entrée Côté gauche | |||||||
6b+ | ★★ Pokhara | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Onsight warmup. Didn't know the grade and thought it was a 6a. Missed most of the suspiciously plentiful pockets at the end of the crux and preferred to take rather than flash pump. Much better than it looks.
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Wed 7th Oct 2020 - Saint-Léger du Ventoux | |||||||
Nord | |||||||
7a 7b+ | ★★★ Macadam cowboy | 29m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Did pitch 1. Bouldery moves at the start and great moves all the way up. Beautiful route.
I sat once right at the top on my second try.
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Tue 6th Oct 2020 - Venasque | |||||||
Saint Pierre Escalier d'entrée Atout cœur | |||||||
6a | ★ La vie sur mars | 20m | |||||
Warmup. Fun and thought provoking at the grade.
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Tue 6th Oct 2020 - Venasque | |||||||
Saint Pierre La Réserve La grande écaille / The giant flake | |||||||
6c 6c/c+ | ★★ Noyeux Joël (Noyeux Joel) - with chou chou halperin | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Juggy and pumpy
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Tue 6th Oct 2020 - Venasque | |||||||
Saint Pierre Le fond de La Réserve | |||||||
5a 5a - b | Sans nom - with chou chou halperin | 15m, 9 | |||||
Climbed it barefoot which made it pretty fun
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Mon 5th Oct 2020 - Venasque | |||||||
Saint Pierre La Réserve Mur vertical | |||||||
7a | Conseil de classe | ||||||
Technical and sustained climbing up technical slopers, at least down low. Climbed after heavy rains. The holds were damp and covered in a seemingly endless layer of fine dust. I gave it my best, but this climb seems excessively hard in such conditions. One to come back to after a prolonged dry period.
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Mon 5th Oct 2020 - Venasque | |||||||
Saint Pierre La Réserve La grande écaille / The giant flake | |||||||
6c 6c/c+ | ★★ Noyeux Joël | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Almost onsight. Shattered! Led with the wrong foot when mantling through the final bulge and got stuck. One quick take to redo the movement correctly and I was up, but it's not quite the same...
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Mon 5th Oct 2020 - Venasque | |||||||
Saint Pierre Le fond de La Réserve | |||||||
6b | ★ La grande distribution | 20m, 11 | ★ Good | ||||
An enjoyable crux with varied and funny pockets low down.
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6b | ★★ DIY | ★★ Very Good | |||||
I think I onsighted this in May. Still good fun. Hard first move.
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6c | La bosse à nova (Sans nom 5) | Average | |||||
I wanted to like this route. Unfortunately, most of the holds refuse to stay put. A line of sika'd holds leads the way, but these don't always follow the most narural line and a few seem to have broken nonetheless. I bailed after figuring out the crux, though the solution (and the grade) depends on how many suspect holds you're willing to crunch on the way up.
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5a+ 5a - b | Sans nom | 15m, 9 | Average | ||||
First barefoot climb outdoors. Worth a star barefoot .
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Tue 29th Sep 2020 - Les Alpilles | |||||||
Orgon Canal Bronx | |||||||
8c+ | ★★ La Connexion | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Rési et physique.
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Sun 27th Sep 2020 - Saint-Léger du Ventoux | |||||||
Est FFMeuh | |||||||
8c | ★★ ? | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Bloc puis resi courte. Physique. FA
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Sun 20th Sep 2020 - Saint-Léger du Ventoux | |||||||
Ouest L'idéal chimérique | |||||||
8c | ★★ Panonoramix et les cyclopes | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Bloc puis conti
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Sat 12th Sep 2020 - Saint-Léger du Ventoux | |||||||
Est FFMeuh | |||||||
8b+ | ★★ Les intermutants du spectacle | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Belle voie ultra physique.
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Sat 12th Sep 2020 - Saint-Léger du Ventoux | |||||||
Ouest L'idéal chimérique | |||||||
8b | ★★★ Fifigenie et gaga meme nom | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Une section dure au milieu.
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Sun 6th Sep 2020 - Saint-Léger du Ventoux | |||||||
Est FFMeuh | |||||||
8b+ | ★★★ Le fluide glacial | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Bien péchon. Classe.
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Sun 6th Sep 2020 - Saint-Léger du Ventoux | |||||||
Ouest L'idéal chimérique | |||||||
8b+ | ★★★ La gouverne mentale | ★★★ Classic | |||||
2 sections dures. Classe
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Sat 5th Sep 2020 - Saint-Léger du Ventoux | |||||||
Ouest L'idéal chimérique | |||||||
8c | ★★ Stay kratow stay safe | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Méga dévers. 1er 8c Flash
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Sun 26th Jul 2020 - Dentelles de Montmirail | |||||||
Rocher Saint Christophe Face ouest | |||||||
6a+ | ★★ Silence on tourne - with Anais Moller | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Bouldery and physical start, followed by an easier slab section and a dihedral section.
Could not get past dihedral, which does not have many bolts. |
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6a 6c | ★★ Orphée (Orphee) - with Anais Moller | 35m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Very technical first 4-5 points, requires precise footwork and balance. Holds are mostly finger pockets. Guidebook grade is 6a, but the start is definitely harder than that in comparison to neighbouring Gilky, also rated 6a
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Tue 21st Jul 2020 - Supermarché | |||||||
8b+ | ★★★ La "Jeunèse" (La "jeunese") | ★★★ Classic | |||||
1 essais. Rési courte, gros dévers.
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Mon 20th Jul 2020 - Dentelles de Montmirail | |||||||
Rocher Saint Christophe Face ouest | |||||||
6a 6b+ | ★★★ Gilky - with Anais Moller | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||||
Splendid route !
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Mon 20th Jul 2020 - Dentelles de Montmirail | |||||||
Chaine de Gigondas Aiguillette Lagarde | |||||||
5b+ | Archimede - with Anais Moller | Average | |||||
Last move feels quite risky for the grade. Setting the anchor was uncomfortable
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Fri 17th Jul 2020 - Saint-Léger du Ventoux | |||||||
Ouest L'idéal chimérique | |||||||
8c 8b+ | ★ Panoramix | ★ Good | |||||
1 essais. Plutôt 8b+?
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Sat 11th Jul 2020 - Supermarché | |||||||
9a 9a/a+ | ★★★ Parle Avec Elle | 35m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Majeur. Une section super dure au milieu.
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Fri 10th Jul 2020 - Cavaillon | |||||||
Ça cartoon | |||||||
6a | ★ Carton plein | 13m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
Bien équipée mais difficiles à trouver car pas de nom en dessous des voies sauf sur ce secteur
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Sat 4th Jul 2020 - Buoux | |||||||
Rêve | |||||||
7c | ★★★ Vent de Sable | 25m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
très belle longueure avec un début pas très difficile un crux assez bloc et une fin plus technique en dalle ! 9 essais
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Tue 23rd Jun 2020 - Les Alpilles | |||||||
Orgon Vallée Heureuse Acteur's Studio | |||||||
6b | Etat de choc | ||||||
One really hard move
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Mon 22nd Jun 2020 - Venasque | |||||||
Saint Pierre La Réserve Le recoin ombragé | |||||||
6b | ★★ Mono point - with Moxi, Philip, Cury | ★★ Very Good | |||||
6a+ | ★★ Les maux de nono - with Moxi, Philip, Cury | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5c 5c+ | ★ Pitchounette - with Philip | ★ Good | |||||
With the perfect beta of Philip could manage the pretty hard start
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6c+ | ★ L'appartement - with Philip, Biba | ★ Good | |||||
Hard start and then continuous, not really easier than the 7a to the right
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7a | ★ L'Africain - with Philip, Biba | ★ Good | |||||
Crux around the first two bolts, then much easier
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6b+ | ★ Parisien - with Philip, Biba | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
Hard start
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6b | ★★ Mono point - with Philip, Biba | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Powerful start and technical finish, very nice!
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6a+ | Zipette - with Philip, Biba | Average | |||||
Hard and polished start, then it gets better
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Sun 21st Jun 2020 - Saint-Léger du Ventoux | |||||||
Nord | |||||||
7b | ★★ Soft connerie - with Javier | 30m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Very nice route. I got the crux beta pretty quickly but got stuck higher on a dynamic move too far above the bolt for my mental. On the second try I got to the top (thanks to the extended draw around the dynamic move) but didn't like the top, weird bubbly rock that I don't know how to hold.
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Sun 21st Jun 2020 - Venasque | |||||||
Quinsan | |||||||
6b | ★ La Mouche - with Philip | 25m | ★ Good | ||||
Hard start and afterwards it‘s very easy
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7a | ★★ Acromegalie - with Philip | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Quite nice, hard to see which holds are good
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7b | ★★ Plat de Resistance - with Philip | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
The crux was again to identify the good holds. Unfortunately I grabbed one crimp a little too far to the left where it was really bad, just 1cm more to the right and I would have been able to hold it
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7b | ★★ Plat de Resistance - with Philip | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Quite soft when you know where the holds are
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7a+ | ★ Silencers - with Philip | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
Scary vertical slab action
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6b | ★ La Mouche - with Moxi | 25m | ★ Good | ||||
Boulder at the first bolt, then more like 5c climbing
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7a | ★★ Acromegalie - with Moxi | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Quite pumpy for the forearm
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7b | ★★ Plat de Resistance - with Moxi | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Soft, maybe 7a+?
Found it less pumpy than 'Acromegalie' but I knew better what to do... |
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7a+ | ★ Silencers - with Moxi | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
Quite technical on some sketchy holds
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Sat 20th Jun 2020 - Venasque | |||||||
Quinsan | |||||||
7b | ★★ Sympathy for the Devil - with Moxi | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Didn't see the good hold in the slab
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7b | ★★ Sympathy for the Devil - with Moxi | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Soft, 7a/7a+?
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6c | ★★ Envie de Toi - with Moxi | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice, especially if you like piaz dihydrals
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6c | ★★ Platonique - with Moxi | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
To the first bolt and to the anchor are the crux moves, easy in between
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6c | ★★ Envie de Toi - with Philip | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Very pleasant!
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6c | ★★ Platonique - with Philip | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Didn‘t see the hold at the slabby section just before the anchor
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7b | ★★ Sympathy for the Devil - with Philip | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fri 19th Jun 2020 - Venasque | |||||||
Saint Pierre La Réserve Le recoin ombragé | |||||||
6a | ★ La commission - with Moxi, Philip, Cury | ★ Good | |||||
Nicht so meins
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Fri 19th Jun 2020 - Venasque | |||||||
Saint Pierre La Réserve La grande écaille / The giant flake | |||||||
6c+ | ★ Le cargo de nuit - with Philip, Biba | ★ Good | |||||
Went the wrong way
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Fri 19th Jun 2020 - Venasque | |||||||
Saint Pierre La Réserve Mur vertical | |||||||
6b | ★ Faute de gaussier - with Philip, Biba | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
Hard start
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6b | ★ Faute de gaussier - with Moxi | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
The first two or three bolts are harder than 6b. Could easily be 6c/6c+...
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Thu 18th Jun 2020 - Venasque | |||||||
Saint Pierre La Réserve La maison troglodyte / the house in the cave | |||||||
7a | ★★ L'invitation - with Moxi | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Soft, 6c+?
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6b+ | ★ Hibou Joujou Cailloux - with Moxi | ★ Good | |||||
Not so easy for 6b+
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Wed 17th Jun 2020 - Les Alpilles | |||||||
Orgon La Bergerie | |||||||
9a | ★★★ À contre courant | 18m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
La plus naturelle des voies en 9 d'Orgon. Classe. 2 sections blocs.
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Wed 17th Jun 2020 - Venasque | |||||||
Place de l'Ascle | |||||||
6a+ | Feu - with Philip, Biba | ★ Good | |||||
Harder than 6a+
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7c+ | ★★ Unknown 10 - with Philip, Biba | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Steep and pumpy on predominantly good holds, I would definitely project this if it was closer to home
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5c | ★★★ Colere de Lait - with Cury | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Very good holds in the crack
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6b | ★★ Terminator - with Moxi | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Better holds than it looks
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6a+ | Feu - with Moxi | ★ Good | |||||
6a+? More like 6b+. Quite technical on bad holds
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7b | ★★ L'Integrale de Peuterey - with Moxi | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Did some mistakes but luckily there are mostly good holds
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7b+ | ★★ L'Integrale de Peuterey extension - with Moxi | ★ Good | |||||
Went too far to the left
Some quite rough and skin unfriendly holds up there |
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7c+ | ★★ Unknown 10 - with Moxi | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Are all the holds natural? Quite continuous climbing on mostly good holds, but still quite hard moves...
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Tue 16th Jun 2020 - Saint-Léger du Ventoux | |||||||
Nord | |||||||
7a 7b+ | ★★★ Macadam cowboy | 29m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Bouldery moves at the start and great moves all the way up. Beautiful route.
I sat once right at the top on my second try.
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Tue 16th Jun 2020 - Les Alpilles | |||||||
Orgon Vallée Heureuse Papy | |||||||
5c | ★★ Abus dangereux - with jagaya | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Enjoyable
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Tue 16th Jun 2020 - Venasque | |||||||
Place de l'Ascle | |||||||
6a | ★★ Lasissons les Dire - with Moxi, Philip, Cury | ★★ Very Good | |||||
1x eine Exe gehalten, um zu klippen (die zehnte oder die elfte)
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6c | ★ Allo? Colchita? - with Moxi | 25m | ★ Good | ||||
Just two bouldery moves at the upper part
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7b+ | ★★★ Aller Plus Haut - with Moxi | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Some not so obvious parts. Way too warm and too much sweat
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7b | ★★★ Misanthropies Therapeutiques - with Moxi | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Jugs all the way. Quite pumpy, especially in the heat
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6a+ | ★★ Reves Brules - with Moxi | ★ Good | |||||
Some good sections, but nothing special
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6c | ★ Chez Francis - with Moxi | 25m | Average | ||||
Bouldery start, then way too much sun in the face on semi good edges. No recommendable route
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Mon 15th Jun 2020 - Saint-Léger du Ventoux | |||||||
Nord | |||||||
7a 7a+ | ★★★ La chevauchee fantastique | 29m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Tried it once almost 3 years ago and took a big whip because I was too pump to climb the anchor. Tried it twice on the trip but the clip to the anchor freaks me out.
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Mon 15th Jun 2020 - Venasque | |||||||
Place de l'Ascle | |||||||
6c+ | ★★★ Petite Marie - with Moxi | 36m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Quite soft for 6c+
Technical start on edges and then jug parade all the way up. Really nice route! |
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6a | ★★ Lasissons les Dire - with Moxi | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Nice and not so easy for 6a. Mostly large but slopy edges.
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Sat 6th Jun 2020 - Buoux | |||||||
Rêve | |||||||
6c | ★★ Les Fruits de la Passion | 30m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
belle voie, le début est un peu patiné mais la suite est un vrai plaisir
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Fri 5th Jun 2020 - Buoux | |||||||
Mur Zappa | |||||||
6b | ★★ Aptitudes | 20m | |||||
2nd Go
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Fri 5th Jun 2020 - Buoux | |||||||
Fakir | |||||||
6b+ | ★★ Cri de Guerre | 30m, 12 | |||||
2nd Go
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Jun 2020 - Saint-Léger du Ventoux | |||||||
Nord | |||||||
7a |
★★★ Macadam cowboy (Macadam cowboy P1)
1
7a
29m
| 29m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Thought provoking, varied and overall fantastic.
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Sun 24th May 2020 - Buoux | |||||||
T.C.F. (Turbo Cibi Facho) | |||||||
6c | ★★ Papa Pas Pou | 22m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
dans l'ensemble la voie n'est pas très dur sauf le crux qui est un peu morpho et assez dur.
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7a+ | ★★★ Dresden | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
belle voie qui engage un peu. Le crux est bien sympa !
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Mon 18th May 2020 - Les Alpilles | |||||||
Orgon La Bergerie | |||||||
8c+ 8c+/9a | ★★ Crépuscule (extension) | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sympa de refaire ma première voie très dure... L'extension en 8a/a+ est très jolie en plus.
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Sun 17th May 2020 - Les Alpilles | |||||||
Mouriès Face Nord Mur du Coeur | |||||||
8b+ | ★★★ Magie blanche | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||||
Majeur, historique et exigeant. Bloc en bas puis rési.
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Sat 16th May 2020 - Les Alpilles | |||||||
Orgon Le Bistrot | |||||||
8c | ★★ Histoires de faussaires | 17m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Bloc puis rési. Jolie voie.
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May 2020 - Venasque | |||||||
Saint Pierre La Réserve Mur vertical | |||||||
6c | ★★★ Velleron Express | ★★★ Classic | |||||
RP second go. First climb back at this grade after 2 months of Covid confinement. Fantastically thin, technical and pumpy.
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