Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Sat 17th Jun 2023 - Ruhrtal | ||||||
Muttental Hintere Wand | ||||||
7+ | ★★ Knackpunkt - with Ivan, Sebastián | 12m, 3 | ||||
TR "send" 2nd go.
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Tue 24th Aug 2021 - Albbruck | ||||||
Wasserschloßfluh | ||||||
7- | ★★ Magic Mushrooms - with Katrin Bauer | 30m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Interesting and challenging on edges and blocky slopers. Not too hard as long as the bodyposition is right. Maybe even 3 star worthy.
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5+ | ★ Alprausch - with Katrin Bauer | 27m | Average | |||
Awkward, shallow chimney then alpine touch headwall. Why not.
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7- 7 | ★★ Hammerhart - with Katrin Bauer | 32m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
A pleasant first pitch. The short, second one not so obvious, partly awkward. Supposedly harder than the route to the right.
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5+ | ★ Steinbeisser - with Katrin Bauer | 27m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
5 | ★ Goldfinger - with Katrin Bauer | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Interesting, rather exposed top part.
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Mon 12th Apr 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Mittleres Pegnitztal Roter Fels | ||||||
7- | ★★★ Schaumschläger - with Sebastian Wolf, Frauke Scheumann | 37m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | |||
warm-up #repeat
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Sat 10th Apr 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Krottenseer Forst Maximilianswand Maximilianswand | ||||||
7+ 7 | ★★ Zwiespalt - with Sebastian Wolf, Frauke Scheumann | 15m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Wow, adventurous and definitely a proud onsight for me! I expected more than 6b but this was quite hard! I was happy I could manage the bouldery start right away – one finger was a little numb after one pointy pocket. The juggy blocks above the boulder look rather chossy and the moves from the no hands ledge further up are tough because of polished footholds. The victory jug before the route eases off, is a small herb garden and I almost slipped off. Not possible to remove that with a regular brush. I respect the original grade but I think in a modern context, also considering the added difficulty of the now polished holds, this would be somewhere in the 6c to 6c+ range. After doing it only once, I think I can't upgrade it that much though. But maybe it has always been a little sandbagged.
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6- | ★ Sonnenkönig - with Sebastian Wolf, Frauke Scheumann | 15m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Nicely textured rock but very easy for the most part. The crux is okay - not very interesting as it's basically a balancy reach to a jug. Still a nice climb.
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7+ | ★★ Ansbacher Weg - with Sebastian Wolf, Frauke Scheumann | 14m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice one! Great gym like climbing, if you know where to go. 2nd go #sportRP
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Fri 9th Apr 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Neuhaus Weißenstein | ||||||
8- | ★★★ Wilde 13 - with Frauke Scheumann, Sebastian Wolf | 14m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Ticked 4 years after! Felt super tough in the cold yesterday. Fast and solid 1st go send today on someone else's QDs. #sportRP
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7- | ★★ Kaminpfeiler - with Frauke Scheumann, Sebastian Wolf | 15m, 4 | ||||
#lastrouteoftheday tired
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6- | ★ This is the end - with Frauke Scheumann, Sebastian Wolf | 15m, 4 | ||||
warm-up.
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7 | ★★ Erste Affäre - with Frauke Scheumann, Sebastian Wolf | 14m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
#repeat 2nd warm-up.
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Thu 8th Apr 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Neuhaus Weißenstein | ||||||
6+ | ★★ R9 - with Sebastian Wolf, Frauke | 15m | ★ Good | |||
#repeat warm-up.
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6 | ★★ Mon Marie - with Sebastian Wolf, Frauke | 15m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
#repeat warm-up
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7 | ★★ Erste Affäre - with Sebastian Wolf, Frauke | 14m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fun, rather bouldery crux.
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7+ | ★★ Panische Zeiten - with Sebastian Wolf, Frauke | 14m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
By the skin of my teeth! I did one move into an undercling that I instantly regretted and almost fell of while pulling up into it. Also it felt like the pump made my hands even colder. Limit for 4°C today. #sportRP
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Tue 30th Mar 2021 - Bergisches Land | ||||||
Bochumer Bruch Lehmriss | ||||||
7 | ★★ Weg der letzten Helden - with Sebastian Wolf | 35m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | |||
#Repeat.
Less heady this time but still a tough 6b.
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6- | ★★ Jungbrunnen MSL - with Sebastian Wolf | 40m, 11 | ★ Good | |||
First multi-pitch of the year as a little bit of practice! 2nd and 3rd pitch on good rock, compared to other routes here. Technically possible as one single pitch but the rope drag would probably be crippling.
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6- | ★★ Scherbenhaufen - with Sebastian Wolf | 22m, 8 | Average | |||
7- 7 | ★★ Elefant im Porzellanladen - with Sebastian Wolf | 22m, 9 | Don't Bother | |||
A slab/ arête but the apparent line is not the route unfortunately. The guide does not clarify either. I traversed right at 5th bolt instead of going onto the slab on the left of the arête but that's more like 6c+/ 7a and you end up climbing on horrible brown rock. After watching Basti, the easiest line seemed to be to escape onto the slab between bolt 4 and 5.
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Tue 23rd Mar 2021 - Bergisches Land | ||||||
Bochumer Bruch Lehmriss | ||||||
7+ 7- | ★★ Rutschbahn - with Katrin Bauer | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Really tricky sloper-arête. Footholds are mostly smears. Some crimps to save you. Worth 6b+ in todays shape, I think. Definitely harder than "Weg der letzten Helden".
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7 | ★★ Weg der letzten Helden - with Katrin Bauer | 35m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | |||
100 times better than it looks with nice, techy moves! The topo-description is accurate – adventurous and airy. The rock is still quite fresh. Good friction compared to other climbs here! I linked the two pitches. (Revolver draw for 1st anchor, 2nd pitch: unclipped 1st bolt and alpine draw for 2nd. Still some rope drag from the intermediate anchor.) Passing the final bulge, my first idea was to break out to the right but there's some vegetation/ small tree stumps blocking the holds. Managed to climb almost straight over the bulge in the end after downclimbing two moves. Grading this is a little difficult. The moves are not so hard but the climbing is sometimes awkward, in parts not so obvious and requires some confidence. I'd say solid 7, alpine touch.
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Tue 23rd Mar 2021 - Bergisches Land | ||||||
Bochumer Bruch Muppetshow I | ||||||
5 6- | ★ Fozzie Bear (direkt über die Haken) (Fozzie Bear) - with Katrin Bauer | 20m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
A slab with a rather thin crux and an odd diagonal dihedral.
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4+ 4 | ★ The Monsters - with Katrin Bauer | 15m, 7 | Average | |||
Destroyed by traffic.
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Mon 1st Mar 2021 - Bergisches Land | ||||||
Bochumer Bruch Drei Zinnen | ||||||
6 6+ | ★★ Südwandrisse - with Frauke | 18m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Left variant. #repeat
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8- | ★★ M.f.G. M.A. - with Tillmann | 18m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Quite tough today with some slightly greasy/ muddy holds. Also lacking endurance after the long "max power only" phase.
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5 5- | ★ Phönix - with Tillmann | 18m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Okay warmup. Didn't really trust the footholds on the left side of the corner.
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Thu 25th Feb 2021 - Sauerland | ||||||
Ebbe- und Lennegebirge Unterer Elberskamp Südwand | ||||||
2 | ★ Slapstick | ★ Good | ||||
Seems like a good first outdoor-route. A lot more friction than on the vertical main wall!
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7 | ★★ Dr. Eisenbart - with Sebastian Wolf, Frauke | Average | ||||
Awkward moves on okayish rock. Still worth doing. Quite a fight for the grade! Dihedral (cruxes) are easy by definition, it seems.
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6 5+ | ★ No. 40 - End of Exploring? - with Sebastian Wolf, Frauke | 26m, 6 | Average | |||
8- | ★ Blutgemetzel - with Sebastian Wolf, Frauke | ★ Good | ||||
A boulderproblem at the 2nd bolt and some awkward and balancy parts.
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7- | ★ Nadelkissen - with Sebastian Wolf, Frauke | ★ Good | ||||
Fri 4th Dec 2020 - Bergisches Land | ||||||
Bochumer Bruch Drei Zinnen | ||||||
8- | ★★ Laokoon - with David | 18m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
7 | ★★ Tunnel Blick | 18m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
6 6+ | ★★ Südwandrisse - with Sebastian Wolf | 18m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
7+ | ★★ Kiss or Kill - with David | 18m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5 | ★★ Clara - with Sebastian Wolf | 19m, 9 | Average | |||
Very incut, slippery jugs that are a little bit too good to be true. No obvious line.
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Tue 24th Nov 2020 - Bergisches Land | ||||||
Bochumer Bruch Drei Zinnen | ||||||
6 | ★★ Tanzende Spinne - with Sebastian W. | 16m, 8 | Average | |||
Good, technical climbing at the very top. Bottom half quite awkward and slick. Not that easy with freezing fingers! 5c at least.
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8- | ★★ Laokoon - with Tillmann | 18m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Far better than expected! If this wasn't chipped, I'd give it three stars. Nice moves! Flash after Basti and Tillmann tried it.
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8- | ★★ M.f.G. M.A. - with Sebastian W. | 18m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
redpoint 2nd go overall. Surprisingly good climbing! #VVV
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Wed 11th Nov 2020 - Bergisches Land | ||||||
Bochumer Bruch Drei Zinnen | ||||||
7+ | ★★ Kiss or Kill - with Sebastian W. | 18m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
A really nice route! Quite pumpy with few rests and open holds. Nice moves.
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7 | ★★ Tunnel Blick - with Sebastian W. | 18m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Quite good! Laybacking!
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6 6+ | ★★ Südwandrisse - with Sebastian W. | 18m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Didn't expect such good climbing here. A really cool, easy going crack system. Mostly hand-sized but also fingers and fist. Lots of holds on both sides of it.
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Wed 28th Oct 2020 - Oberharz | ||||||
Okertal Studentenklippengruppe Tränketal Vorblöcke Kapuzenkuppe | ||||||
5A | ★★ Dammriss | 2m | ★ Good | |||
#barefoot while others were projecting "Bahnverbindung".
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Mon 26th Oct 2020 - Oberharz | ||||||
Okertal Marienwandgruppe Teufelskanzel (Bouldering) Atoll | ||||||
5C+ | ★★ First Blood - with Jannis Z, Hanka | 2m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Cool gaston finger lock!
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Sat 24th Oct 2020 - Oberharz | ||||||
Okertal Studentenklippengruppe Tränketal Kapuzenkuppe | ||||||
5A | ★★ How High - with Micha Rausch | 4m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice line! Traverse finish and not all the way up.
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Sat 24th Oct 2020 - Oberharz | ||||||
Okertal Treppensteingruppe Treppenstein - Bouldering Titanic | ||||||
6B | ★★★ Gallionsfigur | 3m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Warm-up. More exciting than last time because it already got dark.
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Sat 24th Oct 2020 - Oberharz | ||||||
Okertal Marienwandgruppe Teufelskanzel (Bouldering) Atoll | ||||||
5C | ★★ Sex hoch vier - with Hanka, Jannis | 2m | ★ Good | |||
Very short and juggy but an interesting mantle.
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5B | ★ Blutzoll - with Hanka, Jannis | 2m | ★ Good | |||
Weird that it starts on the block.
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Sat 24th Oct 2020 - Oberharz | ||||||
Okertal Marienwandgruppe Teufelskanzel (Bouldering) Buddha | ||||||
5C 6A | ★★ Bandha - with Hanka, Jannis | 2m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Very short but two nice moves on cool holds. Felt more like 5B/C to me.
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5A | ★ Mikado - with Hanka, Jannis | 2m | ★ Good | |||
Started in the overhang but with feet on another small block. Fun!
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Sat 24th Oct 2020 - Oberharz | ||||||
Okertal Flash Ziegenrückenturm | ||||||
6B | ★★ Exodus - with Michael Rausch, Marko Rausch | 4m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Cool problem on the right side of an arête. Feels impossible at first. Granite smearing, balance and slopers.
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Sat 24th Oct 2020 - Oberharz | ||||||
Okertal Flash Flash | ||||||
6B 6A | ★★ Anfang - with Marko Rausch, Micha Rausch | 4m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Hard! Juggy on sharp slots and a very specific "smear, stand up and reach" problem at the very top. I saw 7a/b boulderers not sending.
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Thu 22nd Oct 2020 - Oberharz | ||||||
Okertal Treppensteingruppe Treppenstein - Bouldering Titanic | ||||||
5B | ★ Linker Mantle - with Marco Rausch, Micha Rausch | |||||
5B | Der Gaucho - with Marco Rausch, Micha Rausch | |||||
4 | ★ Rechter Mantle - with Marco Rausch, Micha Rausch | |||||
6B | ★★★ Gallionsfigur - with Marco Rausch, Micha Rausch | 3m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great variety of moves. Sloper, edges, pinch, kneebar, mantle. Awesome. 2nd go.
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Mon 5th Oct 2020 - Oberharz | ||||||
Okertal Ziegenrückengruppe Schlösschen | ||||||
4 | ★ Pompe - with Katrin Bauer | 5m | ★ Good | |||
Katrin's erster draußen-boulder. Ziemlich hoch dafür!
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4 | Abstiegsmantle - with Katrin Bauer | 2m | ||||
5B | ★ Sehhilfe - with Katrin Bauer | 4m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sun 4th Oct 2020 - Oberharz | ||||||
Okertal Adlerklippengruppe Adlerklippe | ||||||
7- | ★★★ Ganz großes Kino - with Katrin Bauer | 35m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Wow, so much friction! Not sure if I bypassed the 2nd crux by climbing the big flake 5 meters right of the last bolt (Last big ledge). Would've been the most awkward, reachy sloper move ever if I didn't. Nevertheless: The steep part is amazing! Didn't place any gear (no obvious placements in the spots where you'd want them, I think). Run-out that way in the first half but it was easy enough to still feel comfortable.
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Sun 4th Oct 2020 - Oberharz | ||||||
Okertal Adlerklippengruppe Schlafender Löwe | ||||||
7 | ★★ Rechte Pfingstkante - with Katrin Bauer | 24m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Rad moves at the top where the wall feels 2° overhanging. Definitely the hardest climbing I did in Okertal so far. After some playing around while lowering from the neighboring route, I figured I wanted to do it. Put some nuts in at the top beforehand. One of them I could not get out anymore. 1st bolt looks good. 2nd one on the "head wall" not so much. (used additional gear).
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6 6- | ★★ Einfache Variante - with Katrin Bauer | 25m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
Good route! I see the point in british grades now. Not too hard but heady!! Good placements for big wires half way to the first bolt but then not much above. Used a 2nd bolt though.
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Sat 3rd Oct 2020 - Oberharz | ||||||
Okertal Adlerklippengruppe Schlafender Löwe | ||||||
5+ 4+ | ★★★ Ostwand-Verschneidung direkt - with Katrin Bauer | 30m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Great! According to my topo I did "Ostwand-Verschneidung Direkt 4+". The second half is really adventurous, immersive and not too easy! First try, it felt like oldschool, french 5c. The placements there are bomber though! Big wires and a red tourque-nut in my case. Dragon #3 and/ or 4 useful for the initial slab.
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4 | ★★ Kamera-Pfeiler - with Katrin Bauer | 21m | ★ Good | |||
When I did this, I wasn't aware that I was doing it all trad because the dragon #3 that was still in, from doing the route next to this, seemed like such a good placement. That was also where the climbing was the hardest.
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7- | ★★★ Hühnerstallkante Direkter Einstieg (Direkte Hühnerstallkante) - with Katrin Bauer | 20m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Linked both direct variants, using all 5 bolts. Too exciting as a warm up but great! Nice and technical with an awkward crux above the 2nd bolt and a slab crux higher up. The top part is easy but run-out. Dragon #3 and red torque nut to mitigate. My first route in this area.
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6+ | Hui Buh - with Katrin Bauer | 21m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
Technical but easy below the first bolt. The rooflet itself is a little hard to read but fun.
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Fri 7th Aug 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Allersdorf Lindenstein | ||||||
4 | ★ Ostkante - with Katrin Bauer | 15m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Nice view. The sling was removed. One possible sling placement looked worn out so maybe thats why. I put a sling of my own somewhere else.
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5+ | ★ Holger Danske - with Katrin Bauer | 16m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Funky start. I'm sure I didn't take the easiest way. Nice pebble slab to the top of the tower.
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6+ 6+/7- | ★★ Boxdorfer Weg - with Katrin Bauer | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
The jugs at the top look quite loose. Demanding for the grade.
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Wed 5th Aug 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Pottenstein Neue Heimat | ||||||
5 | ★ Cafe Caspary - with Katrin Bauer | 9m, 4 | Average | |||
7+ | ★★ Kaputtbohrer - with Katrin Bauer | 10m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice, bouldery route. In the first, steep part there's not much time to find the right solution.
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7- | ★ Kaum Zeit zum Fürchten - with Katrin Bauer | 9m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Some longer moves on good holds. Fun!
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5 | ★★ Frankenplaisir - with Katrin Bauer | 9m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fun and easy climbing if you can find the sequence and the holds.
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Tue 4th Aug 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Oberes Wiesenttal Treunitzer Klettergarten | ||||||
6+ | ★★ Vertikale (R4) - with Katrin Bauer | 22m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
5+ 4/4+ | ★ R5 - with Katrin Bauer | 15m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
6+ | ★★ Pfeilerweg. (R7) - with Katrin Bauer | 18m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
6 6- | ★ Streck Dich! (R 11) - with Katrin Bauer | 13m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Mon 3rd Aug 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Graisch, Leienfels, Bärnfels Graischenstein Graischenstein-Hinterer Teil | ||||||
8- | ★★ Alte und Jungnasen - with Katrin Bauer | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Hard to onsight for me - Choosing the right feet on a bulge isn't my strenght it seems. Felt appropriate for the grade 2nd go. The bolting is not that encouranging but the hard sections have bolts. #sportRP
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3 | ★ Steile Rinne | 11m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
5- 4+ | ★ Adams Rippe | 12m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
5- | ★★ Spirale | 14m | ★★ Very Good | |||
7- 6+ | ★★ Schweizer Käse | 10m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Felt like falling off several times. Maybe because of humidity and the abundance of holds.
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Sat 18th Jul 2020 - Sauerland | ||||||
Ebbe- und Lennegebirge Borghauser Wand Sintersektor | ||||||
7+ | ★ Der Grosse Bär - with Stef fel, valldryzen, Patrick Becker | ★ Good | ||||
A fun and very delicate climb. Feels like almost falling off for the most part.
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Sat 18th Jul 2020 - Sauerland | ||||||
Ebbe- und Lennegebirge Borghauser Wand Überhangsektor | ||||||
7 | ★★ Kaminweg - with Tabea, Stef fel, valldryzen | ★ Good | ||||
Tricky corner and awkward moves to exit the rooflet.
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7- | ★ Captain Morgan - with Stef fel, Patrick Becker, valldryzen | ★ Good | ||||
Quite good!
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Thu 18th Jun 2020 - Ruhrtal | ||||||
Isenberg Links | ||||||
3- 2+ | ★ Gemüseverschneidung | 12m | ★ Good | |||
Nice and easy and one of the few routes with an actual belay.
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4 4+ | ★★ Ostend | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Apparently did a finish variant. Didn't feel as easy as the grade suggests. I'd give it 5b.
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7 | ★★ Essener Weg direkt | 17m | ★ Good | |||
Fun and mostly juggy. Some odd moves in between.
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Thu 18th Jun 2020 - Ruhrtal | ||||||
Isenberg Rechts | ||||||
3 | ★ Treppe | 12m | ★ Good | |||
Not bad! Not even that slabby!
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Thu 18th Jun 2020 - Ruhrtal | ||||||
Isenberg Links | ||||||
5 5+ | ★ Schmetterling | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Not sure if I did the direct finish variant.
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7- | ★★ Gisbert-Hecker-Weg | 17m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Interesting and not so obvious. Bolts a little too spaced to fall early, I thought.
|
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Sun 24th Nov 2019 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Trubachtal Wichsenstein Röthelfels Weiße Wand | ||||||
8 | ★★ Hier geblieben! - with KP, Biggi | 22m | ★★ Very Good | |||
I found something onsightable! yay. Techy and vertical to slightly overhanging. Grade seemed fitting.
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8 | ★★★ Bilderbuch - with KP, Biggi | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Really, really good! Long moves on rather big pockets, shake out holds, traverse into a great layback section, high feet off a pinchable sidepull-edge and small but incut crimp (crux), then a few more techy and delicate moves to the top. 2nd go send! My first 7a in Frankenjura. #sportRP
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7- | ★★ Weiße Wand - with KP | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Not so obvious. Onsighting felt 6b/+.
|
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Sat 23rd Nov 2019 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Trubachtal Wichsenstein Röthelfels Main | ||||||
7 | ★★ Für Dich - with Christoph Rauch | 28m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Beautiful techy climbing but never desperate. Awesome!
|
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6+ | ★★ Ratte - with Christoph Rauch | 30m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
A great climb! Felt 6a/+.
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5+ | ★★ Kleiner Bär - with Christoph Rauch | 30m | ★ Good | |||
Probably did a "combi" of this and R4a plus the bulge (wrong indication in topo) plus traversing to the anchor to the left.
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