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Ascents in Spain as various tick types by Tobias Auth

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Showing all 62 ascents.

Grade Route Gear style Quality
Mon 25th Mar 2019 - Siurana
Grau dels Masets Baix
6c L'alternativa - with Leonie Sport 25m, 10 Classic
 
7a L'home del txapo - with Leon K. Sport 25m Classic
Awesome moves in the techy crack crux. Then some bigger holds lead to a thin 2nd crux. Great last climb of the trip!

 
6a Bombero Furgonetero - with Leonie Sport 18m Good
6a Diedre - with Leonie Sport 25m Good
Rightward traverse, slabby flake, vertical dihedral. Spaced bolts. Some suspicious blocks.

 
Sat 23rd Mar 2019 - Siurana
Can Codolar
7a+ Bindelef - with Leon K. Sport 35m, 11 Classic
One of my trip favorites! 35 meters of great sustained climbing with a lot of cool moves and an awkward start. A little runout and exciting. #sportRP

RP 2nd go after putting draws in after tapas and chocolate cake. Where we met Chris Sharma and Dave Graham. (L'Aprador)

 
Sat 23rd Mar 2019 - Siurana
El Pati
7a Viagraman - with Leon K. Sport 30m, 12 Good
Compared to Ay Mamita this felt way easier and a lot less beautiful. Didn't get into a good flow either and fought more than necessary. Pretty continuous climbing with one or two awkward spots.

 
Thu 21st Mar 2019 - Siurana
El Pati
7a+ Crosta Pànic P1 - with Leon K. Sport 25m, 10 Very Good
Yay, kneebar. Fun juggy rooflet at the top. 7a/ 7a+

 
Thu 21st Mar 2019 - Siurana
Siuranella Est-Nord
6b La Discordia Sport 35m, 13 Very Good
Good warm-up. Nice climbing once you reach the orange rock.

 
6b+ Atracción Fecal Sport 32m, 12 Very Good
Awesome crux section!

 
Wed 20th Mar 2019 - Siurana
Grau dels Masets Baix
6b Diedre 6b Sport 25m Good
Nice moves. Needs some traffic.

 
Wed 20th Mar 2019 - Siurana
Grau dels Masets Esquerra
6a+ Arnau Sport 25m Very Good
7a Es algo - with Leon K. Sport 25m, 9 Very Good
Super techy crux. 2nd go after figuring out the sequence. My beta: Don't use the big undercling. Big crimp with the right, right foot high, gaston left on sidepull, left foot up, cross trough with right hand to pocket. #sportRP

 
Wed 20th Mar 2019 - Siurana
Grau dels Masets Baix
6c Cenar, beber, emborracharse, vomitar, dolor de cabeza Sport 30m, 9 Classic
Bold stuff! Thin feet and balancy to 2nd bolt. Then glorious climbing involving surprisingly good holds on the arete and some exciting moves high above bolts.

 
6c L'alternativa Sport 25m, 10 Classic
Brilliant! Ever so slightly slabby to a vertical crux sequence.

 
Sat 16th Mar 2019 - Siurana
L'Herbolari
6a+ Dj. Pallús Sport 25m, 6 Good
Nice moves. Last hold looks suspicious.

 
Fri 15th Mar 2019 - Siurana
Siuranella centre
7a Tikis Mikis - with Leon K. Sport 30m, 9 Very Good
4th day, 4th 7a. The hardest one for me so far. Obvious crack and corner with some special moves.

 
6a+ Filiprim Sport 30m Good
6b+ La Romanof Sport 25m Very Good
good/ very good. Solid and interesting 6b+.

 
Wed 13th Mar 2019 - Siurana
Siuranella Est-Nord
6b+ La Marca del Sorru Sport 25m Classic
Adventurous flake line. One obligatory jam. Interesting moves.

 
6c+ 6c D'estranquis Sport 18m Average
Crap start which is bouldery, unpleasant and does not have good feet. Some better moves above. "2nd go" after I didn't dare to clip the 2nd draw because of scarce feet. #sportRP

 
7a Brigadistak - with Leon K. Sport 30m, 11 Classic
A lot of friction here! Some shallow pockets and crimps but the fingers just stick. Awesome!

 
6c+ 6c La Fiesta del Mondongo Sport 30m, 11 Very Good
Easy climbing to a neat bouldery part at the top. Apparently there are two solutions. I used the big obvious crack (jug in the upper end of it), then right foot bridge/ dropknee. Beautiful techy boulder! Draws and beta by Leon.

 
Tue 12th Mar 2019 - Siurana
El Pati
7a ¡Ay Mamita! - with Leon K. Sport 35m, 12 Classic
Awesome, varied, vertical climbing. The bolting makes it feel a little bold. Cruxy surprise at the end. Sweet end of day climb!

 
Tue 12th Mar 2019 - Siurana
Espero Primavera
6a+ Marieta de l‘ ull viu Sport 25m, 9 Good
6b Tan San Fot Sport 27m, 10 Good
An unusual and adventurous diagonal line. A tough onsight for the grade.

 
6c 6a Horny attack L1 (Horny attack) Sport 22m, 7 Very Good
A neat boulder at the top. Had good beta by Leon. Fun! Probably wouldn't have onsighted.

 
Mon 11th Mar 2019 - Siurana
L'Herbolari
6a Materia Fosca Sport 30m, 11 Average
Not really a line.

 
6a Cicuta Sport 30m Very Good
First climb in Siurana! Consistent with some interesting climbing for the grade but never too hard if you can stand on your feet.

 
7a Cojón prieto - with Leon K. Sport 30m, 11 Very Good
Draws were in, some beta by the english/ spanish dude-combo. Awesome features and holds in the first half to a ledge and an awkward crux. (Where I went a little more to the right than others after clipping the draw from one of the big holes. Handjam in crack, later high left foot on crucial foothold, one sloper for the right) First screams of the trip.

 
6a Azukiki Sport 20m, 8 Good
Good little climb. The first moves are the most demanding.

 
6c Hansel i Gretel Sport 35m Classic
Best route on grey rock I did anywhere so far! Didn't expect to do jamming in Siurana! Flash by Leon which made it his first 6c.

 
Mon 9th Apr 2018 - Cala Barques
Snatch
6c Hércules (Hercules) - with Tom Compas Deep water solo 10m Classic
Flash. Big holds, big moves. Awesome! My first DWS ascent. Really glad that Tom was so psyched to do this.

 
Sun 8th Apr 2018 - Port de Sóller
Port de Sóller Climbing
6c Blobland - with Tom Compas Sport 30m, 12 Very Good
My loudest onsight of the trip. Classic route but really hard in the grade for being so polished. Still worth it to get on it for the awesome tufa sections. Found it harder than the 6c+ to the right of the cave. It was probably this route where I hurt my right middle finger a bit while going full onsight mode and taking a deep mono on a section with spaced holds high up. There's probably a better solution.

 
6b Patito Feo - with Tom Compas Sport 28m, 10 Very Good
More interesting than its left neighbor. Some nice tufas. Feels steep. Big holds.

 
6a El Mar del Amor - with Tom Compas Sport 28m, 8 Good
Big polished holds all the way. Good warmup. Not a must-do.

 
6c+ 6c+/7a Ja Som Five - with Tom Compas Sport 28m Very Good
The first half is a mega classic 6a on tufas. Some good crimps to reach the jug above the blank looking part. Pumpy blobs and tufas to an easier crux below the anchor. The line in the rockfax guide is too far to the right for the last metres – After the final blobs the line trends to the left.

 
6a+ Bon Vi - with Tom Compas Sport 18m, 6 Good
Awesome tufas but the start is a polished bulge.

 
Sat 7th Apr 2018 - Sa Gubia
Paret dels Coloms
6b+ Algo salvage - with Tom Compas Sport 28m, 8 Classic
Reminded me of Kalymnos. High friction, broccoli covered rock, blobs and little tufas. Some moves are reachy, it's pretty run out and some bolts are old.

 
6b Vol de Nuit - with Tom Compas Sport 28m, 10 Classic
Beautiful! Technical climbing with a variety of awesome moves and holds. The crux felt hard because I still struggle to trust some of the footholds of this grey rock. 2nd go. #sportRP

 
6a Tía Melis (Tía melis P1) - with Tom Compas
1 6a 28 lead by Tobias Auth
Sport 28m Very Good
Great but stiff for the grade. The big undercut flake at the top is awesome. Bolts are old. Tom took a fall close to the anchor.

 
Thu 5th Apr 2018 - Sa Gubia
Princesa
6c Princesa - with Tom Compas
1 6a lead by Tom Compas
2 6c lead by Tobias Auth
3 5c lead by Tom Compas
4 6a lead by Tobias Auth
5 6a lead by Tom Compas
6 5b lead by Tobias Auth
7 5c lead by Tom Compas
Sport 150m Very Good
Awesome technical crux on small holds which is hard for 6c. 2 hangs. No aid. Amazing view from the pitch 2 and 3 anchor. The rock is sharp in the upper pitches.

Climb: 4.75 hrs, descent: 4.25 hrs

Issues we had: There's a runout to the first bolt on pitch 2 and the climbing is not that obvious. There are more anchors than described in the guide and additional lines of bolts in the top part made orientation difficult. After reaching the top we could not find the suggested abseil point of Sol Solet and scrambled up to the anchor of "Via Llum de Lluna". Our rope got stuck on the top pitch of that line.

Discussion on UKC: https://goo.gl/Nyfffb

#multipitch

 
Wed 4th Apr 2018 - Cala Magraner
Xorics
6a 6a/a+ Nautilus - with Tom Compas Sport 22m Good
Consistent climb. Worth doing.

 
6b+ Xorics - with Tom Compas Sport 21m Very Good
Good first half with some flowstone holds. The technical crux is on grey rock and requires some confidence. Hard onsight for the grade but probably a lot easier when you rehearse it and know all the holds.

 
6a 6a+ Beachcomber - with Tom Compas Sport 19m Average
Harder than the 6a+ to the right and quite polished.

 
6a+ Ses tres Maries Sport 21m Good
Two options for the tufa. I did it from the right.

 
Tue 3rd Apr 2018 - S' Estret
All Right
6a+ La Xancia de Ghandi - with Tom Compas Sport 18m, 10 Good
Some nice flake-crimps and optional handjamming.

 
6c Bombay Bicycle Club - with Tom Compas Sport 30m, 12 Very Good
A nice climb with some unusual moves. Stiff first half. #sportRP 2nd go.

 
Tue 3rd Apr 2018 - S' Estret
Raska y Gana
6a+ Chelsea Smile - with Tom Compas Sport 17m Good
2nd go. My first route on Mallorca! The crux had a muddy mono that I brushed for a while. Found it hard to find a good sequence and trust my feet in the crux. #sportRP

 
Fri 24th Mar 2017 - El Chorro
Frontales Frontales Medias Solarium
6b+ Clint Eastwood - with Timo
1 5a lead by Timo
2 6b+ lead by Tobi
3 6b lead by Timo
Sport 55m Very Good
Interesting multipitch! Some long draws are useful. Exposed overhang with good bolting in P2. Technical in the upper half of P2. P3 is sharp and starts with a traverse to the right. Some loose blocks near the P3 anchor. I got through the overhang clean and had some sits in the technical part of P2. #multipitch

 
Thu 23rd Mar 2017 - El Chorro
Makinodromo Makinódromo
6c Life is Sweet - with Michael Wk Sport 32m, 13 Very Good
Bouldery intro onto a ledge, great sustained and creative climbing afterwards. First route of the day after the 2 hour scramble over the notch.

 
Wed 22nd Mar 2017 - El Chorro
Encantadas Area Las Encantadas
4c Atenea - with Timo Sport 13m Good
Good little warm-up. You don't really wanna fall before the third bolt though.

 
6a+ 6a Right of the rib (Unknown) Sport 30m Very Good
A very beautiful slab! Fresh rock.

 
6b 6a+ Guerrera Sport 30m, 12 Don't Bother
Polished lower section, below average climbing above.

 
Tue 21st Mar 2017 - El Chorro
Frontales Frontales Medias Austria
6c A pique de un repique - with Timo Sport 17m, 5 Very Good
Cool line and good rock quality. Had beta from everyone and hung draws myself for less ropedrag. Might feel low in the grade if you find the rests and commit at the final move. (Very) Long draws useful for the last two bolts.

 
6a Valentines Day - with Timo Sport 130m Classic
Very nice bits of climbing in pitch 2 and 3. My first real #multipitch !

 
Mon 20th Mar 2017 - El Chorro
Frontales Frontales Bajas Los Albercones
6a+ Zulu Express Sport 30m Good
Nice climb but confusing bolting high in the route, so that I tried to use the tiny footholds of the 7a to the left. #sportRP 2nd go.

 
6b+ 6b+ to 6c Malditos roedores Sport 30m Good
#sportRP 2nd go. 6c in the local guidebook. We agreed on 6b+.

 
Sun 19th Mar 2017 - El Chorro
Escaleras Escalera Arabe
6a+ Bladerunner Sport 17m, 7 Classic
Great climbing with a runout to the anchor.

 
Sat 18th Mar 2017 - El Chorro
Encantadas Area Cocina Caliente
6a+ Soy Caliente Sport 25m, 7 Don't Bother
Vague line, sharp, soft grade.

 
5c Stay on the scene Sport 20m, 8 Good
Nice climbing for the grade.

 
6a+ Autovia de las cabras Sport 30m Good
Good climbing in the two lower thirds.

 
6b Happiness is a Warm Pasty Sport 30m Average
Vague line.

 

Showing all 62 ascents.

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