Showing all 62 ascents.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Mon 25th Mar 2019 - Siurana | ||||||
Grau dels Masets Baix | ||||||
6c | ★★ L'alternativa - with Leonie | 25m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
#repeat
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7a | ★★ L'home del txapo - with Leon K. | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Awesome moves in the techy crack crux. Then some bigger holds lead to a thin 2nd crux. Great last climb of the trip!
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6a | ★ Bombero Furgonetero - with Leonie | 18m | ★ Good | |||
6a | ★ Diedre - with Leonie | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Rightward traverse, slabby flake, vertical dihedral. Spaced bolts. Some suspicious blocks.
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Sat 23rd Mar 2019 - Siurana | ||||||
Can Codolar | ||||||
7a+ | ★★★ Bindelef - with Leon K. | 35m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | |||
One of my trip favorites! 35 meters of great sustained climbing with a lot of cool moves and an awkward start. A little runout and exciting. #sportRP
RP 2nd go after putting draws in after tapas and chocolate cake. Where we met Chris Sharma and Dave Graham. (L'Aprador) |
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Sat 23rd Mar 2019 - Siurana | ||||||
El Pati | ||||||
7a | ★★★ Viagraman - with Leon K. | 30m, 12 | ★ Good | |||
Compared to Ay Mamita this felt way easier and a lot less beautiful. Didn't get into a good flow either and fought more than necessary. Pretty continuous climbing with one or two awkward spots.
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Thu 21st Mar 2019 - Siurana | ||||||
El Pati | ||||||
7a+ | ★★★ Crosta Pànic P1 - with Leon K. | 25m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Yay, kneebar. Fun juggy rooflet at the top. 7a/ 7a+
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Thu 21st Mar 2019 - Siurana | ||||||
Siuranella Est-Nord | ||||||
6b | ★★★ La Discordia | 35m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Good warm-up. Nice climbing once you reach the orange rock.
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6b+ | ★★ Atracción Fecal | 32m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Awesome crux section!
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Wed 20th Mar 2019 - Siurana | ||||||
Grau dels Masets Baix | ||||||
6b | ★★ Diedre 6b | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Nice moves. Needs some traffic.
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Wed 20th Mar 2019 - Siurana | ||||||
Grau dels Masets Esquerra | ||||||
6a+ | ★★ Arnau | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
7a | ★★ Es algo - with Leon K. | 25m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Super techy crux. 2nd go after figuring out the sequence. My beta: Don't use the big undercling. Big crimp with the right, right foot high, gaston left on sidepull, left foot up, cross trough with right hand to pocket. #sportRP
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Wed 20th Mar 2019 - Siurana | ||||||
Grau dels Masets Baix | ||||||
6c | ★★★ Cenar, beber, emborracharse, vomitar, dolor de cabeza | 30m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Bold stuff! Thin feet and balancy to 2nd bolt. Then glorious climbing involving surprisingly good holds on the arete and some exciting moves high above bolts.
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6c | ★★ L'alternativa | 25m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Brilliant! Ever so slightly slabby to a vertical crux sequence.
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Sat 16th Mar 2019 - Siurana | ||||||
L'Herbolari | ||||||
6a+ | ★★ Dj. Pallús | 25m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Nice moves. Last hold looks suspicious.
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Fri 15th Mar 2019 - Siurana | ||||||
Siuranella centre | ||||||
7a | ★★ Tikis Mikis - with Leon K. | 30m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
4th day, 4th 7a. The hardest one for me so far. Obvious crack and corner with some special moves.
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6a+ | ★★ Filiprim | 30m | ★ Good | |||
6b+ | ★★ La Romanof | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
good/ very good. Solid and interesting 6b+.
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Wed 13th Mar 2019 - Siurana | ||||||
Siuranella Est-Nord | ||||||
6b+ | ★★★ La Marca del Sorru | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Adventurous flake line. One obligatory jam. Interesting moves.
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6c+ 6c | ★ D'estranquis | 18m | Average | |||
Crap start which is bouldery, unpleasant and does not have good feet. Some better moves above. "2nd go" after I didn't dare to clip the 2nd draw because of scarce feet. #sportRP
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7a | ★★★ Brigadistak - with Leon K. | 30m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | |||
A lot of friction here! Some shallow pockets and crimps but the fingers just stick. Awesome!
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6c+ 6c | ★★ La Fiesta del Mondongo | 30m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Easy climbing to a neat bouldery part at the top. Apparently there are two solutions. I used the big obvious crack (jug in the upper end of it), then right foot bridge/ dropknee. Beautiful techy boulder! Draws and beta by Leon.
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Tue 12th Mar 2019 - Siurana | ||||||
El Pati | ||||||
7a | ★★★ ¡Ay Mamita! - with Leon K. | 35m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Awesome, varied, vertical climbing. The bolting makes it feel a little bold. Cruxy surprise at the end. Sweet end of day climb!
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Tue 12th Mar 2019 - Siurana | ||||||
Espero Primavera | ||||||
6a+ | ★★ Marieta de l‘ ull viu | 25m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
6b | ★★ Tan San Fot | 27m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
An unusual and adventurous diagonal line. A tough onsight for the grade.
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6c 6a | ★★ Horny attack L1 (Horny attack) | 22m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
A neat boulder at the top. Had good beta by Leon. Fun! Probably wouldn't have onsighted.
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Mon 11th Mar 2019 - Siurana | ||||||
L'Herbolari | ||||||
6a | ★★ Materia Fosca | 30m, 11 | Average | |||
Not really a line.
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6a | ★★ Cicuta | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
First climb in Siurana! Consistent with some interesting climbing for the grade but never too hard if you can stand on your feet.
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7a | ★★★ Cojón prieto - with Leon K. | 30m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Draws were in, some beta by the english/ spanish dude-combo. Awesome features and holds in the first half to a ledge and an awkward crux. (Where I went a little more to the right than others after clipping the draw from one of the big holes. Handjam in crack, later high left foot on crucial foothold, one sloper for the right) First screams of the trip.
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6a | ★ Azukiki | 20m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Good little climb. The first moves are the most demanding.
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6c | ★★★ Hansel i Gretel | 35m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Best route on grey rock I did anywhere so far! Didn't expect to do jamming in Siurana! Flash by Leon which made it his first 6c.
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Mon 9th Apr 2018 - Cala Barques | ||||||
Snatch | ||||||
6c | ★★★ Hércules (Hercules) - with Tom Compas | 10m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Flash. Big holds, big moves. Awesome! My first DWS ascent. Really glad that Tom was so psyched to do this.
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Sun 8th Apr 2018 - Port de Sóller | ||||||
Port de Sóller Climbing | ||||||
6c | ★★★ Blobland - with Tom Compas | 30m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
My loudest onsight of the trip. Classic route but really hard in the grade for being so polished. Still worth it to get on it for the awesome tufa sections. Found it harder than the 6c+ to the right of the cave. It was probably this route where I hurt my right middle finger a bit while going full onsight mode and taking a deep mono on a section with spaced holds high up. There's probably a better solution.
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6b | ★★ Patito Feo - with Tom Compas | 28m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
More interesting than its left neighbor. Some nice tufas. Feels steep. Big holds.
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6a | ★★ El Mar del Amor - with Tom Compas | 28m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Big polished holds all the way. Good warmup. Not a must-do.
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6c+ 6c+/7a | ★★ Ja Som Five - with Tom Compas | 28m | ★★ Very Good | |||
The first half is a mega classic 6a on tufas. Some good crimps to reach the jug above the blank looking part. Pumpy blobs and tufas to an easier crux below the anchor. The line in the rockfax guide is too far to the right for the last metres – After the final blobs the line trends to the left.
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6a+ | ★ Bon Vi - with Tom Compas | 18m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Awesome tufas but the start is a polished bulge.
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Sat 7th Apr 2018 - Sa Gubia | ||||||
Paret dels Coloms | ||||||
6b+ | ★★ Algo salvage - with Tom Compas | 28m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Reminded me of Kalymnos. High friction, broccoli covered rock, blobs and little tufas. Some moves are reachy, it's pretty run out and some bolts are old.
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6b | ★★ Vol de Nuit - with Tom Compas | 28m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Beautiful! Technical climbing with a variety of awesome moves and holds. The crux felt hard because I still struggle to trust some of the footholds of this grey rock. 2nd go. #sportRP
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6a |
★★ Tía Melis (Tía melis P1)
- with
Tom Compas
| 28m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Great but stiff for the grade. The big undercut flake at the top is awesome. Bolts are old. Tom took a fall close to the anchor.
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Thu 5th Apr 2018 - Sa Gubia | ||||||
Princesa | ||||||
6c |
★★ Princesa
- with
Tom Compas
| 150m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Awesome technical crux on small holds which is hard for 6c. 2 hangs. No aid. Amazing view from the pitch 2 and 3 anchor. The rock is sharp in the upper pitches.
Climb: 4.75 hrs, descent: 4.25 hrs Issues we had: There's a runout to the first bolt on pitch 2 and the climbing is not that obvious. There are more anchors than described in the guide and additional lines of bolts in the top part made orientation difficult. After reaching the top we could not find the suggested abseil point of Sol Solet and scrambled up to the anchor of "Via Llum de Lluna". Our rope got stuck on the top pitch of that line. Discussion on UKC: https://goo.gl/Nyfffb |
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Wed 4th Apr 2018 - Cala Magraner | ||||||
Xorics | ||||||
6a 6a/a+ | ★★ Nautilus - with Tom Compas | 22m | ★ Good | |||
Consistent climb. Worth doing.
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6b+ | ★★ Xorics - with Tom Compas | 21m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Good first half with some flowstone holds. The technical crux is on grey rock and requires some confidence. Hard onsight for the grade but probably a lot easier when you rehearse it and know all the holds.
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6a 6a+ | ★ Beachcomber - with Tom Compas | 19m | Average | |||
Harder than the 6a+ to the right and quite polished.
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6a+ | ★★ Ses tres Maries | 21m | ★ Good | |||
Two options for the tufa. I did it from the right.
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Tue 3rd Apr 2018 - S' Estret | ||||||
All Right | ||||||
6a+ | ★★ La Xancia de Ghandi - with Tom Compas | 18m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
Some nice flake-crimps and optional handjamming.
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6c | ★★★ Bombay Bicycle Club - with Tom Compas | 30m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
A nice climb with some unusual moves. Stiff first half. #sportRP 2nd go.
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Tue 3rd Apr 2018 - S' Estret | ||||||
Raska y Gana | ||||||
6a+ | ★★ Chelsea Smile - with Tom Compas | 17m | ★ Good | |||
2nd go. My first route on Mallorca! The crux had a muddy mono that I brushed for a while. Found it hard to find a good sequence and trust my feet in the crux. #sportRP
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Fri 24th Mar 2017 - El Chorro | ||||||
Frontales Frontales Medias Solarium | ||||||
6b+ |
★★ Clint Eastwood
- with
Timo
1
5a
lead by
Timo
2
6b+
lead by
Tobi
3
6b
lead by
Timo
| 55m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Interesting multipitch! Some long draws are useful. Exposed overhang with good bolting in P2. Technical in the upper half of P2. P3 is sharp and starts with a traverse to the right. Some loose blocks near the P3 anchor. I got through the overhang clean and had some sits in the technical part of P2. #multipitch
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Thu 23rd Mar 2017 - El Chorro | ||||||
Makinodromo Makinódromo | ||||||
6c | ★★★ Life is Sweet - with Michael Wk | 32m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Bouldery intro onto a ledge, great sustained and creative climbing afterwards. First route of the day after the 2 hour scramble over the notch.
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Wed 22nd Mar 2017 - El Chorro | ||||||
Encantadas Area Las Encantadas | ||||||
4c | ★★ Atenea - with Timo | 13m | ★ Good | |||
Good little warm-up. You don't really wanna fall before the third bolt though.
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6a+ 6a | ★★ Right of the rib (Unknown) | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
A very beautiful slab! Fresh rock.
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6b 6a+ | ★ Guerrera | 30m, 12 | Don't Bother | |||
Polished lower section, below average climbing above.
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Tue 21st Mar 2017 - El Chorro | ||||||
Frontales Frontales Medias Austria | ||||||
6c | ★★ A pique de un repique - with Timo | 17m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Cool line and good rock quality. Had beta from everyone and hung draws myself for less ropedrag. Might feel low in the grade if you find the rests and commit at the final move. (Very) Long draws useful for the last two bolts.
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6a | ★★★ Valentines Day - with Timo | 130m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Very nice bits of climbing in pitch 2 and 3. My first real #multipitch !
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Mon 20th Mar 2017 - El Chorro | ||||||
Frontales Frontales Bajas Los Albercones | ||||||
6a+ | ★ Zulu Express | 30m | ★ Good | |||
Nice climb but confusing bolting high in the route, so that I tried to use the tiny footholds of the 7a to the left. #sportRP 2nd go.
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6b+ 6b+ to 6c | ★ Malditos roedores | 30m | ★ Good | |||
#sportRP 2nd go. 6c in the local guidebook. We agreed on 6b+.
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Sun 19th Mar 2017 - El Chorro | ||||||
Escaleras Escalera Arabe | ||||||
6a+ | ★★★ Bladerunner | 17m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great climbing with a runout to the anchor.
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Sat 18th Mar 2017 - El Chorro | ||||||
Encantadas Area Cocina Caliente | ||||||
6a+ | ★ Soy Caliente | 25m, 7 | Don't Bother | |||
Vague line, sharp, soft grade.
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5c | ★★ Stay on the scene | 20m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Nice climbing for the grade.
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6a+ | ★★ Autovia de las cabras | 30m | ★ Good | |||
Good climbing in the two lower thirds.
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6b | ★★ Happiness is a Warm Pasty | 30m | Average | |||
Vague line.
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Showing all 62 ascents.