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Ascents in Balkenstein

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Showing all 20 ascents.

Grade Route Gear style Quality Climber
Fri 25th Mar 2022 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Trubachtal Egloffstein Balkenstein
7 Bürgermeisterin - with Harald Sport 20m Don't Bother
Christoph Rauch
Awkward route. A few harder moves on pockets in the lower part, then choss to the top. The new anchor 5 meters below the summit makes sense, there are some big loose chunks above.

 
6+ King - with Harald Sport 20m Good
Christoph Rauch
The "king line" of the tower (while that doesn't say much because it's the ony one worth climbing, it's still good) that somehow finds its way through the lower part in good rock, then straight up through the best rock quality to the summit. Yes, the slab with the anchor is just lying on top, but it's huge and heavy. As long as nothing big breaks off on the sides, I'd consider it safe to belay your second up.

 
6+ Adventszeit - with Harald Sport 17m, 5 Very Good
Christoph Rauch
#repeat to see if it was really that hard/awkward. Remembered my undercling beta and still felt smooth, but Harald couldn't reproduce my beta, unfortunately.

 
Sat 8th May 2021 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Trubachtal Egloffstein Balkenstein
7 Alter Weg Sport 17m, 6
Peter Zahn
8- Knecht Rupprecht Sport 12m, 3
Peter Zahn
7 Alter Weg Sport 17m, 6 Good
Denis Blum
8- Knecht Ruprecht Sport 12m, 3 Good
Denis Blum
Sat 19th Dec 2020 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Trubachtal Egloffstein Balkenstein
4 Via Urban - with monolith Sport 10m, 3 Average
Christoph Rauch
Nice little layback flake, finish on hollow, not entirely trustworthy blocks.

 
7 Alter Weg - with Bovist Sport 17m, 6 Good
Christoph Rauch
Good wall climbing with a crux on small holds in the middle.

 
6+ Adventszeit - with Daniel Sport 17m, 5 Very Good
Christoph Rauch
Great line along the obvious features in the middle of the wall. The third bolt is awkward to climb to, with groundfall potential. Also bigger distances above, but not dangerous.

 
8- Nikolaus - with Daniel Sport 15m, 5 Good
Christoph Rauch
Not something you're leading more than once if you don't have to. The bolt distances by itself aren't dangerous, but there's a tree that has been happily growing for the last 20 years. Somebody cut it down at some point, but not at the base, so if you take a fall in the runouts, you might end up on the trunk. Should be cut down completely. Otherwise good route, quite sustained with lots of difficult passages quite high above the bolts. One nasty razor sharp crimp.

 
8- Knecht Ruprecht - with Daniel Sport 12m, 3 Good
Christoph Rauch
Nice slab on slopers and some sidepulls. Funny blobby sloper pinches before the last bolt.

 
4 Via Urban - with Ellen Sport 10m, 3 Good
Daniel
7 Alter Weg - with Christoph Rauch Sport 17m, 6 Very Good
Daniel
6 6+ Adventszeit (Adventzeit) - with Ellen Sport 17m, 5 Very Good
Daniel
Interesting climbing! The protection could be better, so I really appreciated the two nuts and sling put in by Christoph Rauch.

 
4 Via Urban - with monolith Sport 10m, 3 Average
Bovist
Good climbing, but there are some loose blocks in the route.

 
6+ Adventszeit - with monolith Sport 17m, 5 Good
Bovist
4 Via Urban - with Bovist Sport 10m, 3 Good
monolith
Second bolt is set a bit high, used panic quickdraw to reach it from the ledge.

 
7 Alter Weg - with Bovist Sport 17m, 6
monolith
Got too dark, had to pull over the crux in second, the rest is relatively easy.

 
6+ Adventszeit - with Bovist Sport 17m, 5 Very Good
monolith
The crux is the start. A bit of thinking to get over the bulge on the fourth bolt is also necessary.

 

Showing all 20 ascents.

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