Showing all 20 ascents.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
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Fri 25th Mar 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Trubachtal Egloffstein Balkenstein | |||||||
7 | Bürgermeisterin - with Harald | 20m | Don't Bother | ||||
Awkward route. A few harder moves on pockets in the lower part, then choss to the top. The new anchor 5 meters below the summit makes sense, there are some big loose chunks above.
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6+ | ★ King - with Harald | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
The "king line" of the tower (while that doesn't say much because it's the ony one worth climbing, it's still good) that somehow finds its way through the lower part in good rock, then straight up through the best rock quality to the summit. Yes, the slab with the anchor is just lying on top, but it's huge and heavy. As long as nothing big breaks off on the sides, I'd consider it safe to belay your second up.
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6+ | ★★ Adventszeit - with Harald | 17m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
#repeat to see if it was really that hard/awkward. Remembered my undercling beta and still felt smooth, but Harald couldn't reproduce my beta, unfortunately.
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Sat 8th May 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Trubachtal Egloffstein Balkenstein | |||||||
7 | ★★ Alter Weg | 17m, 6 | |||||
8- | ★ Knecht Rupprecht | 12m, 3 | |||||
7 | ★★ Alter Weg | 17m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
8- | ★ Knecht Ruprecht | 12m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
Sat 19th Dec 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Trubachtal Egloffstein Balkenstein | |||||||
4 | ★ Via Urban - with monolith | 10m, 3 | Average | ||||
Nice little layback flake, finish on hollow, not entirely trustworthy blocks.
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7 | ★★ Alter Weg - with Bovist | 17m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
Good wall climbing with a crux on small holds in the middle.
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6+ | ★★ Adventszeit - with Daniel | 17m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Great line along the obvious features in the middle of the wall. The third bolt is awkward to climb to, with groundfall potential. Also bigger distances above, but not dangerous.
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8- | ★ Nikolaus - with Daniel | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
Not something you're leading more than once if you don't have to. The bolt distances by itself aren't dangerous, but there's a tree that has been happily growing for the last 20 years. Somebody cut it down at some point, but not at the base, so if you take a fall in the runouts, you might end up on the trunk. Should be cut down completely. Otherwise good route, quite sustained with lots of difficult passages quite high above the bolts. One nasty razor sharp crimp.
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8- | ★ Knecht Ruprecht - with Daniel | 12m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
Nice slab on slopers and some sidepulls. Funny blobby sloper pinches before the last bolt.
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4 | ★ Via Urban - with Ellen | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
7 | ★★ Alter Weg - with Christoph Rauch | 17m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
6 6+ | ★★ Adventszeit (Adventzeit) - with Ellen | 17m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Interesting climbing! The protection could be better, so I really appreciated the two nuts and sling put in by Christoph Rauch.
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4 | ★ Via Urban - with monolith | 10m, 3 | Average | ||||
Good climbing, but there are some loose blocks in the route.
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6+ | ★★ Adventszeit - with monolith | 17m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
4 | ★ Via Urban - with Bovist | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
Second bolt is set a bit high, used panic quickdraw to reach it from the ledge.
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7 | ★★ Alter Weg - with Bovist | 17m, 6 | |||||
Got too dark, had to pull over the crux in second, the rest is relatively easy.
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6+ | ★★ Adventszeit - with Bovist | 17m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
The crux is the start. A bit of thinking to get over the bulge on the fourth bolt is also necessary.
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Showing all 20 ascents.