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등급 | 루트 | 장비 스타일 | 질 | 등반가 | |||
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금요일 25번째 3월 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Trubachtal Egloffstein Balkenstein | |||||||
7 | Bürgermeisterin - 누구와 Harald | 20m | 안하는 것이 좋음 | ||||
Awkward route. A few harder moves on pockets in the lower part, then choss to the top. The new anchor 5 meters below the summit makes sense, there are some big loose chunks above.
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6+ | ★ King - 누구와 Harald | 20m | ★ 좋음 | ||||
The "king line" of the tower (while that doesn't say much because it's the ony one worth climbing, it's still good) that somehow finds its way through the lower part in good rock, then straight up through the best rock quality to the summit. Yes, the slab with the anchor is just lying on top, but it's huge and heavy. As long as nothing big breaks off on the sides, I'd consider it safe to belay your second up.
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6+ | ★★ Adventszeit - 누구와 Harald | 17m, 5 | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
#repeat to see if it was really that hard/awkward. Remembered my undercling beta and still felt smooth, but Harald couldn't reproduce my beta, unfortunately.
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토요일 8번째 5월 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Trubachtal Egloffstein Balkenstein | |||||||
7 | ★★ Alter Weg | 17m, 6 | |||||
8- | ★ Knecht Rupprecht | 12m, 3 | |||||
7 | ★★ Alter Weg | 17m, 6 | ★ 좋음 | ||||
8- | ★ Knecht Ruprecht | 12m, 3 | ★ 좋음 | ||||
토요일 19번째 12월 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Trubachtal Egloffstein Balkenstein | |||||||
4 | ★ Via Urban - 누구와 monolith | 10m, 3 | 평균 | ||||
Nice little layback flake, finish on hollow, not entirely trustworthy blocks.
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7 | ★★ Alter Weg - 누구와 Bovist | 17m, 6 | ★ 좋음 | ||||
Good wall climbing with a crux on small holds in the middle.
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6+ | ★★ Adventszeit - 누구와 Daniel | 17m, 5 | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
Great line along the obvious features in the middle of the wall. The third bolt is awkward to climb to, with groundfall potential. Also bigger distances above, but not dangerous.
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8- | ★ Nikolaus - 누구와 Daniel | 15m, 5 | ★ 좋음 | ||||
Not something you're leading more than once if you don't have to. The bolt distances by itself aren't dangerous, but there's a tree that has been happily growing for the last 20 years. Somebody cut it down at some point, but not at the base, so if you take a fall in the runouts, you might end up on the trunk. Should be cut down completely. Otherwise good route, quite sustained with lots of difficult passages quite high above the bolts. One nasty razor sharp crimp.
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8- | ★ Knecht Ruprecht - 누구와 Daniel | 12m, 3 | ★ 좋음 | ||||
Nice slab on slopers and some sidepulls. Funny blobby sloper pinches before the last bolt.
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4 | ★ Via Urban - 누구와 Ellen | 10m, 3 | ★ 좋음 | ||||
7 | ★★ Alter Weg - 누구와 Christoph Rauch | 17m, 6 | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
6 6+ | ★★ Adventszeit (Adventzeit) - 누구와 Ellen | 17m, 5 | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
Interesting climbing! The protection could be better, so I really appreciated the two nuts and sling put in by Christoph Rauch.
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4 | ★ Via Urban - 누구와 monolith | 10m, 3 | 평균 | ||||
Good climbing, but there are some loose blocks in the route.
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6+ | ★★ Adventszeit - 누구와 monolith | 17m, 5 | ★ 좋음 | ||||
4 | ★ Via Urban - 누구와 Bovist | 10m, 3 | ★ 좋음 | ||||
Second bolt is set a bit high, used panic quickdraw to reach it from the ledge.
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7 | ★★ Alter Weg - 누구와 Bovist | 17m, 6 | |||||
Got too dark, had to pull over the crux in second, the rest is relatively easy.
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6+ | ★★ Adventszeit - 누구와 Bovist | 17m, 5 | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
The crux is the start. A bit of thinking to get over the bulge on the fourth bolt is also necessary.
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