Ascents in Erinnerungswand

Rarely done, but exactly my cup of tea. Starts like Stefan Böhm, so if you're not comfortable with shoulder cracks and chimneys, you'll have your problems there. The traverse out of the chimney is actually the crux of the whole endeavour. I put a long sling into the bolt at the start of the traverse, plus a short draw, which I unclipped once I had reached the next bolt. Left out the first bolt and put a sling in the second, too. Not too much rope drag this way, but if you're really comfortable, leave out the second bolt as well. That way a short sling at the start of the traverse suffices and you won't have to unclip anything. Anyway, the traverse is mostly hard due to bad (or missing) footholds. Good rest afterwards and a juggy section to the ledge. Finally, a great crack line almost to the top, but you have to leave it because Mr. Löw decided to bolt further to the right so you can't reach the anchor from the crack. Don't try to clip it too early!

Climbed the original finish this time, via the obvious double crack. Take a few cams. There are rotten old slings and a carabiner at the top (around a tree), I wouldn't trust them, so either leave a piece of rope or abseil down.

Probably quite good, but I stopped trying after the first vertical to slightly slabby part took me quite some time to figure out and a second slabby part was still before me below the crack.

2nd Go.

Scary bolting

Hung up the draws as a #warmup because it was raining anyway, so the easier routes weren't dry. Did the undercling move straight away, but had to remind myself of the beta for the start of the crack. The jugs above the final overhang were wet, so I didn't put a draw into the anchor.

This go felt really good, but my foot popped off a hold just before the most important move. Finished it off without resting again, though; the jugs in the end were starting to dry already.

Another "project" that went down much too fast for my own taste. And again, it didn't feel at my limit, except maybe clipping the anchor from the moist jugs in the end. I actually wanted to climb above the anchor to get that ridiculous glory jug but slipped off. Leaves a slightly bad taste, but I can do it again whenever I want.

Easier than "City Cobra", less technical, big holds everywhere. Probably rather a soft 8+. But definitely a worthwhile climb! I didn't feel the bolts were placed too badly, but the draws were already in for me.

Not the most suitable route for a #warmup, the pump is strong with this one. Really steep, mostly jugs though, but not too obvious.

A fantastic route. I hadn't even considered that I would get to the anchor, let alone do all the moves. I guess I have a new project now! The start is gnarly, but then the 10 meters of awesome, easy layback flake make up for it. After a tricky wall passage, you commit into this "Cobra Crack"-like mono middle finger undercling. The next bolt is only reachable if you actually do the moves, so I fell a few times. Quite some air time! What follows is very untypical crack climbing with mediocre hand and fist jams (I didn't have tape on, so it was quite painful), and if that didn't finish you off, there's one more overhang to conquer and a huge glory jug at the end.

Didn't quite know how to juggle the monos so I fell off. Also realised that the top passage is the "redpoint crux".

Let me sing the song of this route:

Mono, mono, mono! Crimp, crimp, jug! Clip that bolt! Layback, jug, pinch! Sloper, crimp, pinch! Sidepull, jug, jug! Clip that anchor!

Really good (and good-looking) shallow dihedral with relatively easy but powerful start. The monos in the middle seemed crazy at first, but it's actually not that hard once you know how. The upper section felt quite smooth now, foot positioning is very important (well, isn't it always?).

Did the lower part onsight but fell off completely stupid in the crack at the end; the next go I forgot what I've dine in the lower crux and in the 3rd attempt right before it got dark I reached the chains with destroyedarms and shaky legs;) my fav at this wall!

YESSS finally was able to send this big classic crack line! Tried 2 times last year but never reached the anchor and now with the perfect beta, it felt so smooth and effortless:) great to see the progress by trying old projects:) 5 stars!

We were actually hiking around looking for easy routes up forgotten towers, but passed by this thing and I couldn't resist. Climbable in the cold, because you don't really need your fingers for the most part. In the lower section you're constantly jamming your right hand into the crack and the rest is footwork and shoulder action. The friction chimney above looks easier than it is in the end! A full body experience!

Pumpy warm up;) vui besser als es ausschaut!

Die schlüsselstelle vom peacemaker war leida nass... Hard start und a paar haken mehr wärn au ned schlecht;)

Heyy gepumpte arm nach ner woche bouldern;) geile kräftige ausdauerroute!

#2go

#2go

Omg! Thanks to the best crew for cheering and giving me tips;)

2nd go. Gar nicht schlecht! Nach dem ultraanstrengenden 6+ Schulterriss-Einstieg kommt in der Querung die Crux, danach noch sehr lange, abwechslungsreiche, etwas unübersichtliche, aber nicht zu harte Kletterei, bevor es kurz unter dem Umlenker noch mal anzieht. Wird wohl nicht oft gemacht, lohnt aber durchaus...

4th go

4th go, not too hard, nice climb but bolts aren´t at the right positions...

Soo close to an onsight...

schrecklich schön

Super good route, very long endurance climb with the crux at the real end, thanks to my belayer for the support, it was a fight I wouldn't have won without you!