Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
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Wed 12th Jul 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Püttlachtal Trockauer Wand | |||||||
8 | ★★ Denkste | 16m | |||||
9 | ★★★ Mars Attacks | 17m | |||||
2nd Go
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Sun 9th Jul 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Püttlachtal Trockauer Wand | |||||||
7 | ★★★ Manganplatte | 14m | |||||
8 | ★★ Amalgamplatte | 14m | |||||
10- | ★★★ Steep Mud | 16m | |||||
endlich abgehakt!
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Sat 17th Jun 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Püttlachtal Trockauer Wand | |||||||
7+ | ★★ Nicholas von Dziembowski Weg - with Alberto Sanchez | 15m | |||||
7 | ★★★ Manganplatte - with Alberto Sanchez | 14m | |||||
7 | ★★★ Manganplatte | 14m | |||||
6- | ★★ Nix für Emma - with Ella De Bono | 13m | |||||
7+ | ★★ Nicholas von Dziembowski Weg - with Ella De Bono | 15m | |||||
7 | ★★★ Manganplatte - with Ella De Bono | 14m | |||||
8+ Hard | ★★★ Steinlaus - with Ella De Bono | 18m | |||||
The start of the climb felt really hard for the grade.
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Mon 12th Jun 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Püttlachtal Trockauer Wand | |||||||
9- | ★★ Cubana direkt — 5 attempts - with Fabian Michel | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Super Tour! Zwei Cruxes und dazwischen gibt es eine Restposition an der man komplett freihändig stehen und runterschütteln kann. Unten ist es ein kurzer Boulder auf kleinen Tritten. Für mich war es wichtig einen Schuh ohne Loch rechts anzuziehen.
Oben geht man von einem hohen Tritt mit drop knee in ein Einfingerloch und zieht weiter an eine Leiste um bessere Griffe zu erreichen. Das letzte Stück ist henkelig Aber nicht geschenkt. Erste 9- 🥳🥳🥳
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Sun 11th Jun 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Püttlachtal Trockauer Wand | |||||||
7 | ★★★ Manganplatte - with Klara R | 14m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
10- Easy | ★★★ Steep Mud - with Klara R | 16m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Did not climb the crux and one move below from the good pocket at the second bolt (because I just wanted to quickly check out the route). The route felt much better than it looked from below in my opinion, and the wet parts were not relevant to the climbing. Will come back to give it real tries.
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Sat 10th Jun 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Püttlachtal Trockauer Wand | |||||||
9- | ★★ Cubana direkt — 3 attempts - with Klara R | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Adapted some of Klara R's beta in the second try which made the initial crux easier but the upper crux so hard that I fell. Climbed it with combined beta in the third try.
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9 | ★★★ Mars Attacks - with Klara R | 17m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
The middle part was wet, so I decided not to try again - but worth climbing if dry.
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Fri 9th Jun 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Püttlachtal Trockauer Wand | |||||||
6- | ★★ Nix für Emma - with la linnea, Dave, Vera | 13m | ★ Good | ||||
Spaced bolts and the first one is not do ready to reach. Classic climbing.
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7+ | ★★ Nicholas von Dziembowski Weg - with la linnea, Dave, Vera | 15m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Harder, but also much cooler moves than the neighboring Manganplatte. Not polished, just great climbing on pockets and crimps. Also the first bolt is easy to clip.
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7 | ★★★ Manganplatte - with la linnea, Dave, Vera | 14m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
The start is bullshit, because it's the hardest part of the route and far below the bolt. If you preclip, really beautiful face climbing on good holds with a shitty start.
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Thu 8th Jun 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Püttlachtal Trockauer Wand | |||||||
7 | ★★★ Manganplatte | 14m | |||||
Thu 25th May 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Püttlachtal Trockauer Wand | |||||||
7 | ★★★ Manganplatte - with Janina Schienke | 14m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
10- | ★★★ Steep Mud - with Janina Schienke | 16m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sun 21st May 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Püttlachtal Trockauer Wand | |||||||
7- | ★ Bärenschluchtmantel | 14m | |||||
Eigentlich ganz cool , war leider voller dreck und Spinnenweben
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7 | ★★★ Manganplatte | 14m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
9- | ★★ Cubana direkt — 3 attempts | ||||||
Bouldereinstieg mit kleinen Löchern und schlechten Tritten, dann entspannte zwischen Passage und nochmal ne ordentliche crux im oberen Teil. Schöne technische Route.
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Sat 20th May 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Püttlachtal Trockauer Wand | |||||||
7- | ★ Bärenschluchtmantel | 14m | ★ Good | ||||
7+ | ★★ Nicholas von Dziembowski Weg | 15m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
7 | ★★★ Manganplatte | 14m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
8 | ★★ Amalgamplatte | 14m | ★ Good | ||||
Crimpy Crux
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9- | ★★ Cubana direkt | ★ Good | |||||
Felt hard, some mono moves, just 1 go
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6 | Trockauer Verschneidung | 15m | Don't Bother | ||||
Schmutzig und hoher erster Haken, am besten was legen
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Tue 4th Apr 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Püttlachtal Trockauer Wand | |||||||
7- | ★ Bärenschluchtmantel - with Fynn, rober, Simon, co | 14m | |||||
Sat 3rd Sep 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Püttlachtal Trockauer Wand | |||||||
8 | ★★ Amalgamplatte | 14m | |||||
7 | ★★★ Manganplatte | 14m | |||||
Sun 24th Jul 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Püttlachtal Trockauer Wand | |||||||
7 | ★★★ Manganplatte - with ASG | 14m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Die drei Sterne sind verdient.
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Mon 4th Jul 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Püttlachtal Trockauer Wand | |||||||
7 | ★★★ Manganplatte - with fynn, robert, co | 14m | |||||
Sat 2nd Jul 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Püttlachtal Trockauer Wand | |||||||
7 | ★★★ Manganplatte | 14m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
7+ | ★★ Nicholas von Dziembowski Weg | 15m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sat 25th Jun 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Püttlachtal Trockauer Wand | |||||||
8+ | ★★★ Steinlaus — 2 attempts - with Janina Schienke | 18m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fri 17th Jun 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Püttlachtal Trockauer Wand | |||||||
11- | ★★★ Father and Son | 16m | |||||
9- | ★★ Cubana direkt | ||||||
Sat 2nd Apr 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Püttlachtal Trockauer Wand | |||||||
10- | ★ Wet Pussy Contest | 16m, 6 | |||||
10- | Subterfudge | ||||||
10- | ★★★ Steep Mud | 16m | |||||
Sun 1st Aug 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Püttlachtal Trockauer Wand | |||||||
8+ | ★★★ Steinlaus | 18m | |||||
7 | ★★★ Manganplatte | 14m | |||||
Tue 20th Jul 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Püttlachtal Trockauer Wand | |||||||
7 | ★★★ Manganplatte - with Stefan | 14m | |||||
Sun 4th Jul 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Püttlachtal Trockauer Wand | |||||||
7 | ★★★ Manganplatte | 14m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
2nd go
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Sun 13th Jun 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Püttlachtal Trockauer Wand | |||||||
8 | ★★ Silberner Surfer | 18m | ★ Good | ||||
The holds after the ledge were really slimy … from the ground it looked fine, but I should’ve sent someone to clean it first. Somehow managed to stay on, took me a while to get through the following slab crux, then really struggled hard to find and clip the bolt above the roof. #warmup #lastrouteoftheday
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Fri 4th Jun 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Püttlachtal Trockauer Wand | |||||||
8 | ★★ Denkste - with KP | 16m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Luckily the crux is just at the start of the route (counting from the bivvy ledge) so after I managed to stick the crux I was able to finish it. Not exactly a perfect #warmup :-D
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8+ 8/8+ | ★ H-Blockx - with KP | 16m | ★ Good | ||||
Same as for "Denkste". Had a hard time reaching the second bolt (from the ledge).
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8+ 8/8+ | ★ H-Blockx - with KP | 16m | ★ Good | ||||
I eventually had to make a long, dynamic move into the pocket above the bolt. The rest of the route is still pumpy, but manageable, with a second crux on the way to the anchor with loads of air time potential. Didn't find it contrived and also not bolted badly. It's sort of "obligatory" climbing, you have to make the hard moves before you can clip the bolt, but that's fine for me (and I doubt that you'd hit any ledges if you fall).
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8 | ★★ Denkste - with KP | 16m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Quite humid today, which made the crux even more desperate.
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7 | ★★★ Manganplatte - with Dorado | 14m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Oof! The start is slippery as hell, I've never been so sure about a preclipped first bolt having been the right choice. It gradually gets better, but I really had to give it all to send this. Great route!
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7- | ★ Bärenschluchtmantel - with Dorado | 14m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Wed 16th Sep 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Püttlachtal Trockauer Wand | |||||||
8 | ★★ Amalgamplatte | 14m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
bad conditions, everything's muddy
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Mon 6th Jul 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Püttlachtal Trockauer Wand | |||||||
11- | ★★★ Father and Son | 16m | |||||
2nd Go soft for the grade
Soft |
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10+ | Sonic excess in its purest form | 16m, 8 | |||||
2nd Go
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10- | ★★★ Hellboy | 16m | |||||
Jul 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Püttlachtal Trockauer Wand | |||||||
10- | ★★★ Hellboy | 16m | |||||
10+ | Sonic excess in its purest form | 16m, 8 | |||||
"retro flash"
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11- | ★★★ Father and Son | 16m | |||||
"retro onsight"
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10- | ★★★ Steep Mud | 16m | |||||
Thu 28th May 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Püttlachtal Trockauer Wand | |||||||
11- | ★★★ Father and Son | 16m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
What a day, after a few perfect warmup onsights at Weidlwanger, I somehow didn't got pumped at all in this powerendurancy line! Tried it the first time a week ago with a few totally wet holds and stupid beta... two days ago, a guy at the crag gave me a pretty solid beta for the upper part and today, I bouldered up once, brushed the soaked holds in the crux, came down and almost flew up the wall! 5 tries
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Wed 27th May 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Püttlachtal Trockauer Wand | |||||||
8+ | ★★★ Steinlaus | 18m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Shitty bolt Placements in the beginning
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10- | ★★★ Steep Mud | 16m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
#2go Soft for my size. Two reachy moves.
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Thu 21st May 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Püttlachtal Trockauer Wand | |||||||
10- | ★★★ Hellboy | 16m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
#2go 2nd go; Biiig powerful moves followed by a crimpy crux with high feet and slowly gaining some confidence on these kinda moves:) what a send missed the sloper on the far move and somehow stayed on thecwall by hanging with one arm and no feet in the starting hold... next try was with more commitment;)
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8 | ★★ Denkste | 16m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Felt harder than any 7c at this wall! Tricky start on slopy pockets and beautiful slab climbing afterwards;)
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Sun 17th May 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Püttlachtal Trockauer Wand | |||||||
6- | ★★ Nix für Emma | 13m | ★ Good | ||||
7 | ★★★ Manganplatte - with David X. | 14m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
7 | ★★★ Manganplatte - with David X. | 14m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
7 | ★★★ Manganplatte - with David X. | 14m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
9- | ★★ Cubana - with Alex | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
Fell off in the crux and had to fight my way past it. Didn't think I would be able to do it at first.
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8 | ★★ Denkste - with Alex | 16m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Great wall climbing, but as the description says, it's more like a 7+ with a hard move added at the beginning (which is to say after the first bolt, which is quite high). Pretty long, too!
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6 | Trockauer Verschneidung - with Alex | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
Classic crack dihedral, nicely protected and cool bridging moves.
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8+ 9- | ★★ Cubana - with Alex | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
Might be 9- if your finger doesn't fit into the mono, which I only found after I had done this part without it. Nice pocket climbing with a boulder crux before the end.
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7+ | ★★ Nicholas von Dziembowski Weg - with Bovist | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
Tough, but good wall climbing. Hard moves to the second bolt, and another difficult section over the last bulge.
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7+ | ★★ Nicholas von Dziembowski Weg - with Alex | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
Took down the draws.
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6- | ★★ Nix für Emma - with Bovist | 13m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice line, good rock, for me at least it was a great #warmup.
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7 7- | ★ Bärenschluchtmantel - with Alex | 14m | ★ Good | ||||
Cool line that ends in a funky mantel move. Might be possible to get up without, but I'd consider that cheating. ;-) Best traverse in from the left from the start of "Nix für Emma". The middle part is a nice sidepull game, but felt more like 7 than 7-.
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Sat 9th May 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Püttlachtal Trockauer Wand | |||||||
10- | ★★★ Steep Mud | 16m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Tried it once a year ago and couldn't get over the 3rd bolt... pretty happy to tick off another classic in my 2nd try this time:) big body waves to do the big comitting moves;)
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Wed 8th Apr 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Püttlachtal Trockauer Wand | |||||||
8 | ★★ Amalgamplatte - with Bovist | 14m | ★ Good | ||||
Also nice, but less homogeneous. Hard crux sequence with a mono and two small crimpers in the middle, the rest is around 7.
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7 | ★★★ Manganplatte - with Bovist | 14m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Pretty neat! Homogeneous pocket pulling with great moves and a crux high up before the anchor, which I almost messed up.
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7 | ★★★ Manganplatte - with Christoph Rauch | 14m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
7 | ★★★ Manganplatte - with Christoph Rauch | 14m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Tue 22nd Oct 2019 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Püttlachtal Trockauer Wand | |||||||
9- | ★★ Cubana | 15m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
1st go, danke ferdi fürs chalkbag:)
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Mon 21st Oct 2019 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Püttlachtal Trockauer Wand | |||||||
7+ | ★★ Nicholas von Dziembowski Weg | 15m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Heftige passagen an flachen schmierigen auflegern aba sonst coole züge;)
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9 | ★★★ Risin' high | 17m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Steile lochkletterei mit spannenden finish an den nassen auflegern;)
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9- | ★★ Cubana direkt | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||||
Der einstieg ging unerwartet guad aba oben beim wulst wars mit den feuchten löchern dafür umso knapper;) crimpen bis de finger zerreißt!
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8 | ★★ Silberner Surfer | 18m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Worst conditions ever with totally soaked holds! Schene wandkletterei:)
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Sat 24th Aug 2019 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Püttlachtal Trockauer Wand | |||||||
7 | ★★★ Manganplatte | 14m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Climbed in from the right to clip the first bolt a bit safer
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7 | ★★★ Manganplatte | 14m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Very nice climb! Fairly homogeneous throughout.
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Wed 17th Jul 2019 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Püttlachtal Trockauer Wand | |||||||
7+ | ★★ Nicholas von Dziembowski Weg | 15m | |||||
7 | ★★★ Manganplatte | 14m | |||||
8 | ★★ Amalgamplatte | 14m | |||||
8+ | ★★★ Steinlaus | 18m | |||||
Tue 16th Jul 2019 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Püttlachtal Trockauer Wand | |||||||
10- | ★★★ Steep Mud | 16m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Five tries. Two sessions. Good way to finish the Frankenjura trip before a bbq.
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Fri 12th Jul 2019 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Püttlachtal Trockauer Wand | |||||||
9 | ★★★ Mars Attacks - with Jon Shen | 17m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Thu 25th Apr 2019 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Püttlachtal Trockauer Wand | |||||||
8 | ★★ Amalgamplatte | 14m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Schwere leistenpassage! Geil:)
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