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Ascents in Hanni Kerschbaum Gedenkwand

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Showing all 15 ascents.

Grade Route Gear style Quality Climber
Fri 22nd Apr 2022 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Wiesenttal Sachsenmühle Hanni Kerschbaum Gedenkwand
7 Obere Traverse - with Markus Benning Sport 30m, 7 Good
Christoph Rauch
Climbed both pitches. The first starts off like "Kurzweil mit Klemmkeil", draws up along the nice, thin layback crack via 2 bolts to an anchor. The second pitch is an easy traverse (hence the name) to the right. In order to reach the book case as indicated in the old guide books, you need to climb down a little at the end (there's a tiny little tree you can sling to protect the downclimb). Currently there's a bird breeding right next to the book case, so I refrained once again from climbing "Schlafwandler".

 
6+ Gugglitz - with Markus Benning Mixed trad 20m, 1 Very Good
Christoph Rauch
Challenging, overhanging, clean (bar two fixed slings at the beginning and at the end). The first half is a fist crack, somewhat fiddly protection. Chimney bliss in the second half, easy and enjoyable. No anchor, but a decent enough tree.

 
8+ Unnamed - with Markus Benning Sport 18m, 6 Very Good
Christoph Rauch
Super sharp, rough holds (you almost can't slip out of the pockets) and great line and climbing. Easy layback start, then onto the arête and into the pocketed headwall. Quite straightforward. The last bolt before the anchor is awkwardly placed, but you can safely clip late.

 
6+ Kurzweil mit Klemmkeil - with Markus Benning Mixed trad 20m, 2 Very Good
Christoph Rauch
Clean, slightly overhanging crack with good placements and rock solid hand jams. Crux in the middle, in the upper part you can bridge to the right and lean against the left wall.

 
8 Südostpfeiler - with Markus Benning Sport 20m, 5 Very Good
Christoph Rauch
Curious rock structure at the start, haven't seen something like this in the Frankenjura before, I think. Crux (for me) before the ledge, then beautiful pockets and jugs along the crack. #lastrouteoftheday

 
Sun 7th Feb 2021 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Wiesenttal Sachsenmühle Hanni Kerschbaum Gedenkwand
8 Tanzender Asphalt - with Alex Sport 18m, 4 Very Good
Christoph Rauch
Grabbed an important hold with the wrong hand and had to jump off. It was for the better, though, since the second bolt is a bit too high. Better pre-clip it with two long draws if you don't want to hit the ground. Pumpy from the first bolt to the third on smallish pockets. The third bolt sits a bit far to the right, no idea why. The fourth bolt, however, could be further to the right … yeah, the bolting doesn't inspire confidence in the quality of the route, but trust me, it's still worth it if you like runouts! After the fourth bolt, I had to take a few good whippers to probe for the holds and build up the courage to climb on. After a few tries, I found the much needed "jug" and clipped the fifth bolt. The 5 m runout to the anchor was wet and the threaded shoelace after 3 m didn't really help, but it's somehow manageable. Tall people can reach the anchor a tad earlier. :-D

 
8 Tanzender Asphalt - with Alex Sport 18m, 4 Very Good
Christoph Rauch
Powered through the lower section. Couldn't find one hold quick enough at the end of the hard section, so I just used whatever was there and bumped to a jug. The long way to the fifth bolt felt easy now, and the runout to the anchor also worked out despite some minor mistakes.

 
8 8+ Aura - with Alex Sport 18m, 7 Very Good
Christoph Rauch
One for the category "so much better than it looks". Sandy start with a huge move to a bomber undercling (I bet that something broke off here; you can go a bit right, but then the first bolt doesn't make sense), then a funny layback which is a bit awkward to maneuvre. From there, it's premium pocket climbing with some crimps and a crux after the last bolt on a sloper. Awesome mono gaston to cross into a jug at the fixed draw!

 
7 When I'm 64 - with Alex Sport 16m Good
Christoph Rauch
Logical variant of "Hattrick" and according to some sources the finish is also different, because Hattrick used to go up and right after its second bolt (which is shared with this route). Strenuous start on the sidepull flake, then technical slab climbing.

 
Wed 26th Feb 2020 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Wiesenttal Sachsenmühle Hanni Kerschbaum Gedenkwand
8+ 8+/9- Hirnriss - with Tobi Sport 18m, 7 Good
Christoph Rauch
Despite the description in older guidebooks, this turns out to be a nice route since the rebolting a few years ago. A bit sandy and still a few loose pieces here and there, but the important holds are solid and the moves are good. Crux is the overhang above the interesting yellow piece of rock, with a few hard moves up to a good downward-facing spike. The rest is easier, but still interesting.

 
7- 7-/7 Hattrick - with Tobi Sport 16m, 4 Good
Christoph Rauch
If I interpret the lines correctly, Hattrick should go up on the right-hand side of the big flake (first bolt), then straight up over the slab and slightly left to a jug (second bolt); from there directly straight up to the ledge. The two bolts in that final section seem to be from the new route "When I'm 64"; not sure where the original third bolt (apparently a piton) was and how the route proceeded from the second bolt. Still, climbed this way it's relatively safe and a nice climb.

 
7+ Unnamed 1 - with Tobi Sport 15m Good
Christoph Rauch
Good pocket climbing with a crimpy section in the middle, just after the funny pinch that feels almost like a tufa but isn't.

 
8+ 8+/9- Hirnriss - with Tobi Sport 18m, 7 Good
Christoph Rauch
Couldn't clip the third bolt after fumbling around too much.

 
Sun 18th Nov 2018 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Wiesenttal Sachsenmühle Hanni Kerschbaum Gedenkwand
8+ Aura Sport 18m, 7
Martin Skalli
2nd go. Nice, but imho easier then "Tanzender Asphalt"

 
8 Tanzender Asphalt Sport 18m, 4 Very Good
Martin Skalli
One of the best! 3rd go. Brave endurance climbing...

 

Showing all 15 ascents.

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