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Ascents in Hanni Kerschbaum Gedenkwand as Onsight

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Showing all 8 ascents.

Grade Route Gear style Quality Climber
Fri 22nd Apr 2022 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Wiesenttal Sachsenmühle Hanni Kerschbaum Gedenkwand
7 Obere Traverse - with Markus Benning Sport 30m, 7 Good
Christoph Rauch
Climbed both pitches. The first starts off like "Kurzweil mit Klemmkeil", draws up along the nice, thin layback crack via 2 bolts to an anchor. The second pitch is an easy traverse (hence the name) to the right. In order to reach the book case as indicated in the old guide books, you need to climb down a little at the end (there's a tiny little tree you can sling to protect the downclimb). Currently there's a bird breeding right next to the book case, so I refrained once again from climbing "Schlafwandler".

 
6+ Gugglitz - with Markus Benning Mixed trad 20m, 1 Very Good
Christoph Rauch
Challenging, overhanging, clean (bar two fixed slings at the beginning and at the end). The first half is a fist crack, somewhat fiddly protection. Chimney bliss in the second half, easy and enjoyable. No anchor, but a decent enough tree.

 
6+ Kurzweil mit Klemmkeil - with Markus Benning Mixed trad 20m, 2 Very Good
Christoph Rauch
Clean, slightly overhanging crack with good placements and rock solid hand jams. Crux in the middle, in the upper part you can bridge to the right and lean against the left wall.

 
8 Südostpfeiler - with Markus Benning Sport 20m, 5 Very Good
Christoph Rauch
Curious rock structure at the start, haven't seen something like this in the Frankenjura before, I think. Crux (for me) before the ledge, then beautiful pockets and jugs along the crack. #lastrouteoftheday

 
Sun 7th Feb 2021 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Wiesenttal Sachsenmühle Hanni Kerschbaum Gedenkwand
8 8+ Aura - with Alex Sport 18m, 7 Very Good
Christoph Rauch
One for the category "so much better than it looks". Sandy start with a huge move to a bomber undercling (I bet that something broke off here; you can go a bit right, but then the first bolt doesn't make sense), then a funny layback which is a bit awkward to maneuvre. From there, it's premium pocket climbing with some crimps and a crux after the last bolt on a sloper. Awesome mono gaston to cross into a jug at the fixed draw!

 
7 When I'm 64 - with Alex Sport 16m Good
Christoph Rauch
Logical variant of "Hattrick" and according to some sources the finish is also different, because Hattrick used to go up and right after its second bolt (which is shared with this route). Strenuous start on the sidepull flake, then technical slab climbing.

 
Wed 26th Feb 2020 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Wiesenttal Sachsenmühle Hanni Kerschbaum Gedenkwand
7- 7-/7 Hattrick - with Tobi Sport 16m, 4 Good
Christoph Rauch
If I interpret the lines correctly, Hattrick should go up on the right-hand side of the big flake (first bolt), then straight up over the slab and slightly left to a jug (second bolt); from there directly straight up to the ledge. The two bolts in that final section seem to be from the new route "When I'm 64"; not sure where the original third bolt (apparently a piton) was and how the route proceeded from the second bolt. Still, climbed this way it's relatively safe and a nice climb.

 
7+ Unnamed 1 - with Tobi Sport 15m Good
Christoph Rauch
Good pocket climbing with a crimpy section in the middle, just after the funny pinch that feels almost like a tufa but isn't.

 

Showing all 8 ascents.

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