Ascents in Hersbrucker Schweiz as various tick types by Tobias Auth

warm-up #repeat

Wow, adventurous and definitely a proud onsight for me! I expected more than 6b but this was quite hard! I was happy I could manage the bouldery start right away – one finger was a little numb after one pointy pocket. The juggy blocks above the boulder look rather chossy and the moves from the no hands ledge further up are tough because of polished footholds. The victory jug before the route eases off, is a small herb garden and I almost slipped off. Not possible to remove that with a regular brush. I respect the original grade but I think in a modern context, also considering the added difficulty of the now polished holds, this would be somewhere in the 6c to 6c+ range. After doing it only once, I think I can't upgrade it that much though. But maybe it has always been a little sandbagged.

Nicely textured rock but very easy for the most part. The crux is okay - not very interesting as it's basically a balancy reach to a jug. Still a nice climb.

Nice one! Great gym like climbing, if you know where to go. 2nd go #sportRP

Ticked 4 years after! Felt super tough in the cold yesterday. Fast and solid 1st go send today on someone else's QDs. #sportRP

#lastrouteoftheday tired

warm-up.

#repeat 2nd warm-up.

#repeat warm-up.

#repeat warm-up

Fun, rather bouldery crux.

By the skin of my teeth! I did one move into an undercling that I instantly regretted and almost fell of while pulling up into it. Also it felt like the pump made my hands even colder. Limit for 4°C today. #sportRP

#repeat Still pumpy!

Fun moves on big holds.

Got a little confused and almost fell.

One tricky part in the traverse – especially if you have long legs I guess.

Uncomfortable first moves, nice above. A bit polished but not too bad.

Polished and covered in chalk when I did this. Nice pockets but nothing special imo.

One of my Frankenjura favorites so far! Harder than its right neighbor but more beautiful. Typical Frankenjura bolting style - huge runout s but well placed bolts. Nice and relaxed slab to the bulge, then committing moves to the upper part which offers beautiful, logical and pumpy climbing. I used a 60cm draw below the bulge - you probably don't want to fall into any draw clipped to that bolt. Comitting move over the bulge, pumpy above. Airy bolting as well. Felt nowhere near 6b and a lot harder than other routes of the same grade in Franken.

Searching for holds above the overhang got pretty exhausting because there's a lot to choose from.

Good climbing onto an exposed tower. Being on top is an experience on it's own.

Consistent difficulty and nice moves.

Cool route for the grade. With a small roof step.

Beautiful climbing to a somewhat awkward crux at the final bulge.

Consistent climbing to the crux just below the anchor. Fun to watch others on their onsight attempt. One of the best routes I know in Franken!

A polished and uninspiring climb.

6+ in the Schwertner Guide. Felt hard for that grade and was quite polished - just like other routes in this sector.

Great climb except for 5 metres of chossy looking rock. Great view and probably the longest singlepitch I did so far.

Just great climbing. Onsighting it as the first route of the day felt so good!

My first climb of this kind! Polished but still fun.

Gear to first bolt by Chris.

My first route in Frankenjura!

Flash in the dark with a headlamp after arriving late for our very first time in Franken! Got into a better flow than on my next day repeat.