Ascents in Nürnberger Turm

Direkt von unten über neuen Haken.

Polished

Climbed it as described in the 1991 Bühler guide, that is, to the second bolt of "Südriss", then to the right into the crack parallel to "Südriss", up this to the top. Nuts/cams absolutely necessary, or you'll have to run it out for 5 to 7 meters after the rusty peg. Felt quite tough compared to "Südriss", since there are no good hand jams, only a mediocre fist/open hand in the middle. I'd love to try the direct variant, but that one looks really desperate and the old expansion bolt doesn't look trustworthy either.

Forgotten variant that traverses from the north face around the west face into the upper part of "Südriss". Not sure if we traversed too high, but everything worked out nicely in the end.

vom 3. zum 4. haken war es etwas kniffelig

An aesthetically pleasing line with varied, demanding and interesting moves and fairly homogeneous difficulty. The view is also great 🌞

I'm tempted to dock a star for the polish and the hollow flake at the beginning... but nah.

Früher vielleicht mal ne 6+ gewesen. Mittlerweile locker ne 7+ durch die Abnutzung.

Not as homogeneous as the original, also a bit hard to read and more sensible a bit left of the bolts, so that you're almost drawn towards the good holds of the finish of "Talseite". Jammed my way up the crack, there are really only two or three sequences where you need to use actual holds. Jamming your foot in the crack also helps sometimes. Still didn't feel too polished to me.

Pretty fantastic #warmup

Just barely made it. Even three years later, I had real trouble getting through the friction footholds in the middle.