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Seasonality
Summary
Limestone
Tall south face in the forest; the routes have a serious, alpine touch. Wearing a helmet is essential.
Description
Vertical
Morning sun
Noon sun
South
South East
The "Sachsenriss", a stunning 40 meter crack dihedral, was already listed in the first Frankenjura guide book from 1931, but still poses a challenge today. All routes here can be described as adventurous, serious, alpine climbs, with fixed protection few and far between and a rock quality that is often extremely sandy and brittle. This is also true for the seemingly well-protected "Via Fragile". Nuts and friends, however, are mostly needed in the three easier routes.
Access issues inherited from Frankenjura Nord
Seasonal closures for protected birds. See here: Closed crags
Additional information: IG Klettern closure list
Zoning concept
- Zone 1: NO climbing
- Zone 2: climbing on existing routes
- Zone 3: new routes possible
Please respect signs and zoning.
Approach
Steep hike
<5 min
Park at "Sachsenmühle", then walk along the B470 towards Muggendorf. After 120 meters (counting from the turnoff towards Gößweinstein), opposite a gap in the crash barrier, a faint track leads into the forest and to the base of the crag.
GPS: 11.30513, 49.77628
Ethic inherited from Frankenjura Nord
- The limestone is soft – please clean your shoes from dirt in order to avoid polished handholds and steps.
- Don't toprope directly through bolts – use your own material.
- Clean chalk and tickmarks with a brush.
- Don't leave toilet paper.
- Pick up rubbish.
- No unnecessary noise.
- No camp fire and bivvy.
- Park considerately (tractor should be able to pass also at the weekend).
- Smoking in the forests is forbidden from March 1 until October 31 by law.
- No publishing of boulder blocks.
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Selected Guidebooks more Hide
Author(s): Ulrich & Harald Röker
Date: 2023
ISBN: 9783938680490
Volume 1 of the Climbing Guidebook Franken describes 6450 routes on 479 crags - the complete work, including Volume 2, offers information about more than 13,500 routes.
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Author(s): Ulrich & Harald Röker
Date: 2020
Volume 2 of the Climbing Guidebook Franken describes 6790 routes on 387 crags - the complete work, including Volume 1, offers information about more than 13,500 routes.
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Author(s): Sebastian Schwertner
Date: 2021
Band 1 des Gesamtwerkes für den nördlichen Teil der fränkischen Schweiz - auf 584 Seiten werden 6100 Routen vorgestellt. Zusammen mit Band 2 ergeben das mehr als 1150 Seiten genaue Informationen zu den über 12.600 Routen des Nördliche Frankenjura …
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Accommodations nearby more Hide
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Fri 28 Apr
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