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Buch

  • Grade context: SX
  • Ascents: 14

Seasonality

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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Das Klettern ist in der Sächsischen Schweiz nur nach den "Sächsischen Kletterregeln" gestattet.

Dementsprechend darf nur an genehmigten Felsen geklettert werden. An allen anderen Felsformationen besteht Kletterverbot.

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at DAV Sachsen or current list of climbing bans / aktuelle Sperrungsliste.

Approach

Zugang nur vom Weg entlang der Wesenitz, dann Pfad zu Turm. Gipfel befindet sich auf Privatgrundstück.

Ethic inherited from Wehlen

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake. For climbability an extra model was developed.. CHECK IT at unclear conditions.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

Nordgrat (R, Abseilöse) zG.

FA: Carl Rau, 1914

3m rechts der Westkante Rippenfolge auf Absatz. "Alter Weg" zG.

FA: André Johne & Lars Thielsch, 2002

Wie „Zum Training“ bis zu kƖ. Üh. Re. queren u. bei angedeuteten Rippen ger. zG (AÖ).

FA: Steffen Bartsch, 1993

3,5 m Ɩi. vom AW Wand (R) zG.

AF VIIIb

FA: Thomas Knoof, 1989

8 m Ɩi. vom AW Rsp (nR) zG.

FA: Helmut Oehme, 1967

3,5 m Ɩi. vom „Spinnenriss“ Wand bei Rsp (R) ger. zG.

FA: Heiko Züllchner, 1990

Wie „ExƖibris“ zum R. Re. Verschn. u. Rsp (2. R) ger. od. Wand im Rechtsb. zG.

AF VIIIb

FA: Falk Heinicke, 1990

3 m Ɩi. von „Prosa“ bei Rsp zu R. Li. Rampe u. Verschn. an Abs. vorbei zG.

FA: Heiko Züllchner, 1990

2 m re. der „Variante z. SO-Grat“ Verschn. u. Wand (2 R), oben rechtsh. zG.

AF VIIIa

FA: Olaf Dorst u. Peter Fresia, 1988

Vom 1. R rechtsgen. Rsp zu Abs. Verschn. zG.

FA: Ekkehard Ullmann, 1990

SO-Grat ger. zG.

FA: Lutz Diestel, 1967

6 m re. vom „SO-Grat“ Ɩinksgen. Rippe u. Wand zum Grat.

FA: Helmut Oehme, 1967

S-Kante zG.

FA: Johannes Fieber, 1905

Rechts in der Westseite Blockriss 4m hoch und linkshaltend zu R. Wand mit Rissspur (2R) zG.

AF VIIIb.

FA: Thomas Böhmer, Andreas Ermer & Sven Bombach, 25 May 2014

Li. in der W-Seite anfangs Ɩinksgen. Rsp (2 R) zG.

AF VIIIc

FA: Joachim Friedrich & Falk Heinicke, 1990

Vom 2.R rechtshaltend zu 3.R. Wand gerade zG.

AF IXb.

FA: Falk Stephan, 2012

4m links vom "Eselsohr" Wand (2R) zG.

AF VIIIc.

FA: Sven Neumann, 2013

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): H. Schulze & V. Hölker

Date: 2022

Bizarre Felstürme, romantische Schluchten, endlose Wälder Eine über 150-jährige Klettertradition hat hier ein recht strenges Regelwerk bewahrt. Der Führer stellt eine Auswahl von über 300 der lohnendsten Sandsteinrouten, vorwiegend in den Schwierigkeitsgraden I bis VII vor. Gebietsfremden oder Anfängern soll der Einstieg ins Elbsandsteinklettern so erleichtert werden.

Author(s): B. Arnold

Date: 2017

Der Kletterführer bietet den ultimativen Überblick über die großen klassischen Kletterwege an den bis zu 100 Meter hohen Felsen des Elbsandsteingebirges.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Fri 28 Apr
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