Routes in Eigerturm

Quite stiff for the grade. Crux between third and fourth bolt may be your self-confidence. Use a nut to keep calm.

Start with Zickzack-Weg and at the 5th bolt change into the first pitch of Eigerturm. Avoids some of the rope drag and therefore the first belay may be skipped to continue to the semi hanging belay below the crux dihedral of 'Direkter Eigerturm'.

One of the best routes of that grade. Steep, long, good rock and an airy finish.

Be aware to don't use the bolts of 'Zickzack-Weg'. If you do you climb to much to the right.

Protection:

10 bolts and 5 slings

Gear:

15 Quickdraws, 1 120cm sling; maybe some additional nuts + QDs to avoid run outs

The easiest route through the face of the Eigerturm. A must climb. Good to warm up and for beginners to learn how to climb multi pitch routes. If the pitches are too long, they can be split at the intermediate lower-off anchors.

Another great diretissima that shares the start with Eigerturm and 'Schwarzwälder Kirsch'. Crosses Eigerturm and 'Direkter Eigerturm' to end right of 'Superdirekter Eigerturm'.

A direct and harder start into 'Südpfeiler'.

Starts with a relative easy crack. The first bolt is very high so bring some gear to improve protection and to avoid run outs further up. After the crack keep right and use two ring anchors of 'Direkter Eigerturm'. Then continue straight up with the 5 glue-in bolts until you reach the top of the small pillar. Standing on top of it you may reach the last bolt. Pre-clip it as the next moves are meant to be the crux. Pushing through the crux you will find a flake to place a sling. Use it or you may risk a fall onto the pillars top.

Gear:

13 QDs, 2 x 60cm and 1 x 120cm slings

Another Eigerturm variant that climbs from right to the center of the wall joins the Eigerturm route branches of into direct finish through a great dihedral. Below the dihedral, the crux, you may use the semi hanging belay to avoid rope drag. Protection may be improved with Cams and nuts.

Shares the start with 'Südpfeiler' but branches to the right at the second ring anchor of 'Direkter Eigerturm'. From there follow the slings right of 'Südpfeiler' route.

Gear:

13 QDs, various slings

Easier variant of 'Igor' along a large shed where you have to take courageously. Great laybacks at the beginning and holes at the end. Nuts are recommended to improve protection before the first bolt and the easier parts above the shed.

Acess from the little platform where Zulliverschneidung starts as well. Dyno between the 2. and 3. bolt.

The fun part is very short but it is it worth to climb. After an easy ramp (3) that ends on a vegetated platform, follow the bolts on the right of 'Zulliverschneidung'. The line looks difficult but works out quite easy. A little pumpy because you have to piaz.

Linke Variante zur zweiten Seillänge der Mademoiselle. Absolut lohnend.

Short route with a slab start and a crack finish. Use lower of from Madmoiselle.