Ascents in Kipoi left from the bridge

Endurance training

Very cold today with very good friction made the difference. It all comes down to a very open sloppery pinch and the low percentage move to get it perfect, two cruxes on top of each other and a hard exit to the beginning of the second part crack. First ascent my suggestion is 7c hard.

Saw and did the second part a long and very run-out 6b , also did the first crux and all the moves of the second. 7b+/c imho.

Did the crux but couldn't do the first part that seems doable. Very nice route with nice boulder prob at the start with sloppers pinches and crimps.

Again lost at the anchor.

Endurance training, putting draws also and lost at the last move..

Did the first crux and linked it with the start of the second. Did all the moves apart one very hard linking. So fucking hard....

Decided to hop on this one, an old nemesis. I dont think it has seen a free ascent. I know for a fact that when a friend was trying it everything seemed as a freshly bolted route, and many things (specially feet) broke whilst trying. Now that i have the power to see and do all the moves of this first blank wall im sure that it hasnt seen a free ascent and im sure that the grade is wrong. Since im no grade expert when it comes to this kind of grades and since i dont really care about grading anymore i will leave it as it is. But it feels way harder than crazy waters with some really hard moves on 10mm crimps and underclings with bad feet... amazing 😋. Did all the moves and almost all linkings,hard and very sharp.

Lost it again at the anchor only to learn that there were much easier beta...

Finally on the ninth try wasted at least 5 tries with bad beta but u only learn by misteakes. The winter training is paying off, realistically with the proper reading and proper mindset could have gone in 2-3 tries (with the first being the reading one). On to the next.

New highpoint one move before the anchor.....

2 attempts today in both made the same mistake that cost me in pump. New highpoint though did first second and third crux and pumped out 1 move before the second rest. Very close.

Very bad conditions today very hot and humid, gave one attempt at 19 00 when it was cooler but same highpoint. After that did the second crux and cruised till the last kneebar. Needs cooler temps.

Highpoint one move before the end of the second crux, after that cruised till the end. Very humid today.

Did all the moves till the anchor and many linkings. Amazing route, power endurance first part to easier but cunning wall climbing second part and roofy finale.....

Saw and did the first harder crux. Amazing power endurance on sidepulls, crimps and sloppers.

Tried some beta for the crux but was too humid .

Cleaned till the 5 bolt and did all the moves till the 4 and some of the 5 , easy start then a long hard boulder prob . Very nice route .

Cleaning and putting draws . The opener didnt clean anything so needs a lot of cleaning in the crux area . The grade is approximate but after seeing the crux something in that region . Easy start on wall climbing leads to a hard boulder prob and a bit of power endurance. Seems nice .

Warmup, cleaning holds.

All good really dont know how i fell at that point last time , doesnt matter really beautiful route .

Did the first crux and the second and fell at the last move before the rest . Very close to send but its ok cause i get to try this beauty again . So so beautiful route after the first 6B/+ boulder crux of the scared spirit (7a+ till there) u have a bad rest and a second hard 6B boulder crux followed by continues moves on sloppy features with no rest in between after that u have a good rest and a 6b+ to the top . One of the best of the crag together with the other 2 variations ( Scarlett and scared spirit) .

Remembering moves did everything , nextime .

Cleaned everything and saw and did all the moves .

Arrived at the anchor cleaned the necessary holds still needs more cleaning at the last part before the anchor but now is doable. Also saw and did all the moves.

Cleaned and put draws at most of this uncleaned new line . Saw and did the third crux ,not that hard but with a huge runout .

Saw and did the second crux ,not that hard but very beautiful long moves on big holds with bad feet really nice .

Saw and cleaned the first crux. Nice long moves on big sloppy holes.

Last

All good , very pumpy 7b and very beautiful a must of the crag.

Went to measure myself with the beast , did the first part and could pull on the small holds of the second ....

finally found the easier beta (with a help from a friend) and even though its very beautifull its no 7b+ , 7b hard is better. Beatifull long moves on small tufas.

almost did it , nextime.

did the first part.

Did find some beta that might work but didnt have time to test .

Warmup seeing moves

Not sure about the grade i think most 7b+ i ve seen were similar but could also be 7b hard , either way very beautiful with very pumpy finale nearly fell at the last move .

Bolted this one today after i bolted/fixed the scared spirit ext. Has the first crux and endurance of scared spirit (7b till there imho) and then a good rest and a very beautiful crux on a sharp small tufa . Cleaned a bit and saw the first and last part of the variation now i need to see the crux , endurancy with a cherry at the end.