Ascents in Armeos by Lee Cujes

Repeat to put gear on and photo rope

Someone's glued a herd of elephants to the roof!

Long and super good. Pockets.

Repeat. Hard for grade I think.

Sneakers

L hand only in sneakers. Tried no hands, fell off and grazed my nipples.

Sneakers

6c into 7a+

with extension

In Sam's shoes - group watching me from the road. I touched a goat today also. Does it get any better?

Definitely worth going for the onsight. Trella's big brother.

Hard with no chalk, fixed now though. A very very good route. Do it.

Owen's proj - polished pump

Second shot today. One of the best routes on the island.

Long and techy, cool.

The new one near Oh Brothers. A couple of cool moves on Vietnam-style limestone.

35m mega pitch, love the long ones.

One move knee bar, one move knee bar…

Quite wet, linked it with Lothar La

40m mega-pitch, borrowed rope from Simon

Cauliflower snake soup.

Tricky start and a bit sharp.

It is 6c, and pretty hard for 6c. Fantastic wall route.

15 years ago when the first super long pitch (now split in 2 and shortened) was 7b. Also tried the 8a extension. Classic quote: "You'll have to re-thread to get down!" "Nah dude, I'll make it down on stretch" (pause) "The halfway mark is at the 6th bolt!"

15 years ago when it was a long 7b to the first anchor.

"mate, you chose one heavy-weight sand-bag for your last climb. That deadly move with the desperate clip was the hardest single move i've done yet at K. Harder than any of the moves on the 7C's i tried! Upon closer inspection i think a hold has fallen off it. Yeah i had to rest a few times but somehow got all the moves. It was still pretty burly higher up. Honestly i'm sure that climb deserves at least 7c! Good lead mate!" [This is 7a+ in the guide]

7a+ - mega long, tried the extension at 8a. Classic quote: "You'll have to re-thread to get down!" "Nah dude, I'll make it down on stretch" (pause) "The halfway mark is at the 6th bolt!"

Rope solo

Rope solo

Rope solo

Well, what can I say? Overhyped for starters, bloody Gresham. Secondly, there's a blank patch so what's he done? Drilled a mono pocket. Yes, it is drilled. An my frikkin finger doesn't fit in properly. HB would have no chance. Train L-hand monos if you want this tick.

Draws on for Sam

shot 5 - fell on final hard move

fell lower - tired

Sus cleaned it up.

Not pumpy this time

More like caving than climbing. You can't really compare it to anything. My hardest OS on paper, and I did it in the sun, very un-me.

Priapos warmup

THE route apparently. I was under Priapos exhastion, I don't know. Anyhoo, it's now considered 7a since the stalactite got pulled off.

Lovely marble - polished

Thanks Ben. Amazing, a must-do.

Why??

shot #4 - new highpoint

Some strong moves. Susy's project. Zee German's had this to say to her: "You must fart!" "Excuse me?" "Faart! Never stop farting! You must give all the fart you have!" "Do you think he means 'fight'? Ohhh that makes sense."

Well this is odd. When I climbed this route (2008) there was no anchor, just a mess of tat and rubbish. I fell, not knowing where the anchor was. Now (2011) an actual anchor has been placed, a metre lower than the pseudo anchor where I fell. So this dog now magically morphs into an onsight. Yay me.

Smooth as silk. My only regret is not taking quickdraws for the 7c extension.

Needed every bit of the 70m rope.

In sneakers

Up to do Tzatziki vikki

Amazing, long, absorbing...

shot 2

shot 3

Draw retrieval for some damsels in distress. Bouldery. Gear on, obviously.

Completes my clean-sweep of this end of the cliff. Annoying anchor position.

Sam's project. Excellent proj for moving off the slabs into the steeper country.