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Ambaria

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Access issues inherited from Meteora

Generally, rock formations with inhabited monasteries should not be climbed. Preserve all other historical remains.

Approach

On the road from Kalambaka to Kastraki, after a sharp left turn is the Taverna "Xapama" on the left hand side. Opposite is a road going up, after some meters on that road turn right and walk up to the rock and you arrive at Southwest Ridge.

Also reachable by foot from either Kalambaka or Kastraki.

Ethic inherited from Meteora

Traditionally, Meteora was in great parts explored by climbers with background from Saxon Switzerland (East Germany), translating to ringbolts, leadbolting and runouts. However, there is also some mainstream sport climbing to be found.

Routes

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Grade Route
1 3c 30m
2 5c 20m
3 5c 20m
4 5a 40m

Typical Meteora face climbing. Sparsely bolted so expect "agony and pain" if the grade is not well within your limits... The end of 3rd pitch has dangerous loose rock that should better be avoided.

1 3a 35m
2 2a 35m
3 3a 40m
4 3a 25m
5 3c 40m
6 4b 35m
7 4c 40m

Adventurous route with easy but exposed climbing.

P1 starts on the west face, some 30m left of the SW ridge. It climbs diagonally to the right to the anchors at the entrance of the tunnel (2 bolts).

P2 Easy scramble trough the tunnel cave. At the exit ignore the anchor on your right and go for the one on the far end of the cave. (no bolts).

P3 Diagonally up on the largest cobbles towards the next cave, anchor to the far end (2 bolts).

P4 Easy but exposed traverse until the bolt (about 10m to the right) then up, anchor at the middle of the cave (1 bolt, you can sling 1-2 cobbles).

P5 Rightwards traverse then up the water groove into another hollow cave. Walk through to the other side, anchor behind the tree (no bolts, a couple of cam placements at the right of the groove).

P6 Diagonally up and right through cave traverses and vertical slab moves between them (2 bolts).

P7 Straight up to the bolt, then rightwards to easier ground and up to the summit (1 bolt)

Return by rappelling down Südwestkante (4 rappels)

FA: 1979

1 5 35m
2 3 45m
3 4 45m
4 1 35m

P1 6 bolts, P2 2 bolts, P3 3 bolts, P4 1 bolt.

After the abseil place you can walk 30m to the top and the route book. Abseil the same way down (4 rappels).

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Vangelis Batsios

Date: 2023

ISBN: 9786180046649

Kletterführer für traditionelles und modernes Klettern in Meteora - insgesamt werden 46 der 171 Meteora-Türme und 206 Mehrseillängenrouten der insgesamt 860 Routen beschrieben

Author(s): Vangelis Batsios

Date: 2022

ISBN: 9786180037999

Wer kennt sie nicht - die Konglomerattürme Meteoras. Ein Traum für viele Kletterer. Dieser Führer stellt ausschließlich Sportkletterouten (Einseillängen und Mehrseillängen) in Meteora (27 Felsen), Theopetra, Sarakina und Agia Paraskevia vor; zusammen 319 Routen.

Author(s): Thierry Souchard

Date: 2017

ISBN: 9782952638876

A selective guidebook describing 180 multi-pitch routes from 7 areas around the world, covering Calanques, Verdon, Sardinia, Meteora, Wadi Rum, Tsaranoro, Red Rocks, and Zion.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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