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Routes in Holy Ghost Guardian

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Showing all 5 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
5b Southwest Arete
Mixed trad 180m, 6, 6
{UIAA} 5+ Nordostweg
1 4+ 40m
2 4 35m
3 5+ 35m
4 5 35m

P1: Overgrown corner, easier to climb the right face, then turns into a water groove. 4 bolts, a couple of cam placements.

P2: Slab, 3 bolts. The anchor is under the crack and a bit to the right.

P3: Crack/ chimney. 4 bolts, takes large cams. Hanging belay at the slab on the left

P4: Short leftward traverse then up either through the groove (right wall quite loose) or slab to the left. 2 bolts, belay from a tree.

Rappel from "Schwarze Magie" (Black Magic), one 10m approach rappel, one 50m to the ground.

FA: Dietrich Hasse & H.L.Stutte, 1976

Mixed trad 150m, 4, 13
{UIAA} 5+ Annabell-Variante

Clearly to the right of the NE edge to the 3rd stand of the NE path (25m, V, 4 bolts / 25m, V-, 2 bolts / 25m, V+, 3 bolts).

Unknown 4
{UIAA} 5 Schmale Wand (Στενός Τοίχος)
1 5- 40m
2 5 45m
3 5 40m

Set: D, D. Hasse & U. Hasse, 1996

Sport 130m, 3, 11
6a+ Black Magic
1 6a+ 25m
2 6a+ 25m

A wonderful route that follows a water groove up the east face of the Holy Ghost Guardian. Its groove and overhangs provide for some really nice if not surreal climbing on protruding cobblestones that seem eager to pop-out but (usually) they don't! Bolted to almost modern sport-climbing standards.

Trad 50m, 2

Showing all 5 routes.

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