Ascents of Master Magnet

Finally it rained and the temperature dropped, 15 tries in total but i wasted at least 5-6 tries but u learn only by misteakes. Amazing route so glad its over, 8a but maybe on the soft side but who cares.

Waited for cooler temps that never came, but managed to do dyno clipping and anchor.

New highpoint one more move, felt really strong today. Both times did the crux and clipping, the second time after falling at the tufa cruised till the anchor.

The pressure of each day being the last before the heatwave got me on this one. Ok today wasn't the best possible conditions due to humidity but the 18 grades temps was unreal. Anyhow the problem is the mind cause after failing at the dyno started from the underclings did the dyno clipped the draw and lost it only a bit before the anchor. The heatwave is here (monday 30 grades) so at least a week i will step away from it, which maybe is also good to clear the mind and at the next low temp opportunity send.

Last day before the heatwave comes, very humid conditions maybe the worst of this month huge rainfall. Very tired from work but had to give it a try, but the humidity made it look harder. Lost after the dyno (couldn't clip hand was slipping), after that did the dyno clipped and arrived at the rest but couldn't go till the anchor without one rest, cause of humidity foot slipped 4 times and lost a lot of energy. But overall very good attempt. Nextime.

Ok its obvious that mentally its not easy to accept that you can do a 8a route. Even if you can do the crux and connect easily the rest of route, the respect for the grade is hard to surpass. Today both attempts did the crux (in the second staticed the dyno) clipped the 4 bolt (which was not that hard actually but again i sabotaged myself) but got stressed and messed up the tufa sequence. At least new highpoint plus i corrected some beta in the upper part... getting there..

High gravity day...need to find a way to clip the 4 bolt....

Almost did the dyno , after that cruised till the anchor.

First real attempt fell at the dyno, after that cruised till the anchor.

Second attempt new highpoint did the dyno but fell at the tufa. Decided to skip the 4 draw cause seems unclipable but messed the moves after the crux due to fear of long and bad falling(slab at the beginning) Eventually fell at the slab and nothing happened...

Did all the first part sequence and the dyno, also did the second part to the anchor. Very bad conditions heavy rainfall very humid.

Did the crux and all the other moves and also did many linkings. It all comes down (for me) to a dyno from 2 sidepulls (the right very sharp still my finger is numb) on a good crimp(7A font boulder prob). After that you have 14 endurancy moves 7a+ to the first real rest and finish off with some easy moves to the anchor. For sure makes more sense than plastic fantastic, so will stick for this one for a while.

Hopped on this one to find out that the crux is hard but doable after that remains the second endurancy part, but all the game is in the start. Four to five move crux with crimps on overhanging terrain, feels easier than plastic.

This is a dream route ( if u like boulder) 6A+ boulder prob to 6C+/7A b.prob. on small crimps with dyno finish for the first crux . Putting draws and seeing moves , the first prob goes the second one feels so hard ...