Südtirol Guide

Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. Südtirol 5,213 routes in Region

1 3 25 4 19 2 6 9 10 8 5 7 12 11 13 21 22 14 20 23 17 16 18 15

1 Val Pusteria 2 Höhlensteintal 3 Val d'Isarco 4 Zona Merano e Val Venosta 5 Zona Bolzano e Bassa atesina 6 Dolomiti di Braies 7 Alpe di Siusi / Seiser Alm 8 Val Gardena 9 Puez-Odle 10 Gruppo di Fanes 11 Gruppo del Sassolungo 12 Gruppo del Sella 13 Val di Fassa 14 Sottosassa 15 Sass taiá 16 Castel Pietra 17 Bilico 18 Val Noana 19 Innerfeld 20 Passo Rolle 21 Cima Uomo 22 Clocia 23 Montebello Cavalese 25 Val Passiria

Summary:

J

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

Seasonality

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.696042, 11.550852

summary

South Tyrol, or Alto Adige, is a province in northeast Italy. It includes part of the Dolomites range, with limestone summits like the Three Peaks of Lavaredo and many other major summits and cliffs.

description

South Tyrol is a highly mountainous region and thus also offers endless climbing possibilities.

You can choose between vast, warm valleys, full of apple trees, wine and even palm trees, where you might experience an almost Mediterranean feeling. On the other side, South Tyrol also has a wilder, more rugged, but equally impressive side: the impressive Dolomites, Alpine flora with some of the highest peaks in the Eastern Alps such as the Ortler. In between, there are high-Alpine pastures, deep valleys, earth pyramids, crystal clear lakes, roaring waterfalls and endless cliffs. Make your pick!

The climbing region on theCrag isn't completely identical with the Italian province as parts here are listed within the Dolomites region and Bormio area, too.

See and edit Dolomites here.

1.1. Val Pusteria 532 routes in Region

4 1 2 3 5

1 Zillertaler Alpen 2 Rieserferner 3 Villgratner Berge 4 Venedigergruppe 5 Dreifingerspitze

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.994206, 12.082544

1.1.1. Zillertaler Alpen 282 routes in Region

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.911648, 11.746954

description

https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alpi_della_Zillertal

1.1.2. Rieserferner 249 routes in Region

Summary:

Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 46.870045, 12.074286

summary

The Rieserferner mountains extend across the Austrian state of Tyrol and the Italian province of South Tyrol (Trentino-South Tyrol region). The mountains mainly lie in South Tyrol, where the greater part is protected within the Rieserferner-Ahrn Nature Park.

description

AVE 37

Austrian part see: http://www.thecrag.com/climbing/austria/klagenfurt-area/area/790649025

1.1.3. Villgratner Berge 0 routes in Region

description

AVE 38

https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Monti_del_Villgraten

1.1.4. Venedigergruppe 0 routes in Region

description

https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gruppo_del_Venediger

AVE 36

1.1.5. Dreifingerspitze 1 route in Cliff

Summary:

All Alpine climbing

Lat / Long: 46.709952, 11.990039

1.2. Höhlensteintal 363 routes in Area

6 5 7 3 2 1 4 8

1 Landro 2 Geierwand 3 Dürrensee 4 Grotta di Landro 5 Franchi 6 Militärklettergarten 7 Val Rienza 8 Rienzwand

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.670489, 12.245972

summary

Höhlensteintal (Val di Landro) is is a side valley of the Puster Valley in South Tyrol, Italy. It hosts several crags in breathtaking scenery.

approach

Enter the Landro valley from Dobbiaco (Toblach) and follow the river Rienz.

1.2.1. Landro 87 routes in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: 46.625536, 12.224950

summary

Multiple sectors, short access and great rock make this one of the most popular crags in Val di Landro.

description

"Blue Cafe" is the first sector on the left followed by "Hägar" and Hexentanz (here split in 2).

approach

(46.6253503, 12.2257387) From Dobbiaco enter the Val di Landro until you arrive just before Lake Landro, park on the right shortly after Lake Landro. The crag is visible on the right.

1.2.2. Geierwand 60 routes in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: 46.630133, 12.227174

summary

This crag above Lake Landro is comprised of 3 cliffs, Geierwand, Stube and Balkonien.

description

Great climbing on great rock with great views .

approach

Park on the left side after the lake (coming from Toblach, ( 46.630082, 12.228987). See individual sectors for details.

1.2.3. Dürrensee 36 routes in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: 46.630155, 12.235855

summary

A nice West facing cliff, but due to the mountains on the other side of the valley the sun leaves the crag at about 5:30pm.

approach

From Toblach / Dobbiaco drive towards Venice - Val di Landro. Follow the road up a the valley for quite a while, until you arrive at the second restaurant at Lake Landro. Park on the left (on the lake shore). From the parking lot follow the small path that leads towards the crag at the lefthand side of the lake. Once you spot a wooden bridge on your right cross the river. If the river is low you might be able to walk along the waters edge. Continue on path number 6 and at the junction, take the path to your right that leads along the side of the lake. A cairn marks the start of the small path that leads uphill and lefti nto the forest and to the base of the crag.

1.2.4. Grotta di Landro 57 routes in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: 46.621733, 12.230676

summary

Crag characterized by two large caves with routes in various difficulties incl. hard grades.

approach

Pass Lake Landro, after a few hundred meters leave the car on the parking lot to the right. Across the road beyond the bike path and the river, there is a path that leads into the woods. After about 200 meters, turn left onto a wider path until you reach path 6b. Proceed until you find a little cairn from which another path starts to the left. Shortly after, behind a large rock, a steep path leads up to the cliff.

1.2.5. Franchi 31 routes in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: 46.640829, 12.230807

summary

A crag with loads of hard routes and link-ups that is also well protected from rain.

approach

Easy to reach from the parking area. Please dont forget to have a valid parking ticket.

1.2.6. Militärklettergarten 30 routes in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: 46.643853, 12.229138

summary

A great crag for beginner and intermediate climbers, lots of well bolted lines.

description

Gut gesicherter Klettergarten, sowohl für Anfänger als auch Fortgeschrittene.

history

This crag was developed by the military.

1.2.7. Val Rienza 61 routes in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: 46.632071, 12.269729

summary

A nice and popular crag with great views.

description

Sun until 4pm.

approach

Drive into the Höhlensteintal (Val di Landro) and park near the hotel Drei-Zinnen-Blick (you need to buy a ticket). Hike into the valley in direction of Drei Zinnen (Tre Cime) until you see the sign for the crag and go up left.

1.2.8. Rienzwand 1 route in Cliff

Summary:

Lat / Long: 46.618994, 12.281392

1.3. Val d'Isarco 281 routes in Region

4 2 3 1 5 6

1 Hohe Festung 2 Stohlwond 3 Mauls 4 Ridnaun 5 Waldkofel Spiluck 6 Mahr

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.844410, 11.437594

summary

The Valle Isarco connects the Stubai Alps with the Dolomites.

description

The valley of the Isarco (Eisack) river stretches from Brenner Pass southwards down to its confluence with the Adige near Bolzano. The upper valley north of Franzensfeste is also known as Wipptal.

1.3.1. Hohe Festung 57 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.775605, 11.624288

description

Der Klettergarten neben der oberen Festung in Franzensfeste erfreut sich bereits seit Jahren großer Beliebtheit bei Anfängern und Familien. Die grüne Wiese und zahlreiche liebevoll errichtete Bänke und Tische machen das Plätzchen am Wandfuß besonders gemütlich. Neu ist auch ein Übungsklettersteig für die ersten Meter in der Vertikalen.

The Klettergarten next to the upper fortress in Franzensfeste has been very popular with beginners and families for years, but advanced cimbers will also find interesting routes here, up to 6c+.

The area below the main wall is great too - green meadow with lots of benches and tables, plus anchors for slacklining.

The main wall Hauptwand is definitely the most popular; there are a few new routes that aren't described yet. The upper wall Obere Wand has lots of potential for further development, but for now you'll only find easy routes to the left and hard project routes in the overhang on the right.

approach

Park under the highway

1.3.2. Stohlwond 73 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.870264, 11.261639

summary

Multiple sectors in a beautiful environment. Routes in many different grades, from beginners to hard movers.

approach

Drive in direction of Ratschings and park after the bridge after the ski resort. Follow the forest road down river and hike up left on a marked trail.

1.3.3. Mauls 18 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.828546, 11.532249

description

A relatively new crag with potential for more routes.

approach

Drive to Grasstein and park just before the village. Follow the bicycle path north, pass the power station and cross the bridge. You see the cliff below you on the left.

1.3.4. Ridnaun 25 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.930696, 11.279101

summary

A sunny crag with rather short routes.

approach

Park near the mining museum in Ridnaun.

1.3.5. Waldkofel Spiluck 42 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport climbing and Bouldering

Lat / Long: 46.760779, 11.593770

summary

A relatively new crag with an amazing view of the Dolomites.

1.3.6. Mahr 65 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.696347, 11.640310

summary

One of the older crags near Brixen.

1.3.7. Jaufenspitze Cima Giovo 1 route in Area

Summary:

All Trad climbing

1.4. Zona Merano e Val Venosta 882 routes in Region

8 9 12 5 7 10 11 3 4 14 15 13 16 2 1 17 18 19 20 21

1 Tisner Auen 2 St. Hippolyt 3 Fragsburg 4 New Fragsburg 5 Algund 7 Burgstollknott 8 Hochgang 9 Gingglegg 10 Huafwond 11 Wintertraum 12 Schnalstal 13 Latsch 14 Schlanders 15 Allitz 16 Nesselwand - Laas 17 Laaser Tal 18 Martelltal 19 Fuchsknott 20 Bärenfels 21 Ortler

Summary:

Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 46.699422, 10.833709

1.4.1. Tisner Auen 48 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.572108, 11.181091

summary

A roadside, East-facing, porphyr crag found at the end of the apple fields of Gargazzone/Gargazon. Fairly recent crag, lots of high-quality trail building, nice fresh bolts and well cleaned rock.

description

Sector A has beginner friendly/warmup routes Sector B has lovely climbing from 5b - 8a

Popular routes are fresh and frictiony, bring a wire brush for the less popular routes.

access issues

None

approach

Two distinct sectors (A & B): A is accessed directly from the carpark B is the upper sector, accessed by climbing "Was guckst Du???" (4b+)

If you trip over getting out of your car you might be able to belay the first climbs

From the MeBo, take the Gargazzone exit, head SW through apple fields for approx. 2kms straight. There is a carpark, toilet and information panel where the road veers left - park here.

where to stay

Carpark

ethic

Bolted cracks, slabs

history

Only recently developed with help from Alpenverein Sudtirol!

1.4.2. St. Hippolyt 35 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.580879, 11.159593

summary

Easier to intermediate routes on a vertical cliff, a small roof for the more ambitious climbers as well.

description

In a wooden box in the center of the crag there is a topo as well as some brushes. Please take care and return these items. Some routes have their names written onto white rocks at the base / (close to) their starts. There is a bench and other seating options in close proximity. Recently the closest trees have been cut down allowing for more direct sun light, still some shade is provided by the farther trees and hills surrounding the area.

approach

Park at Parkplatz Wanderweg Kirche St. Hippolyt (46.576374, 11.163244)

There should be signs leading to the crag starting at the parking lot. Otherwise: Follow Sentiero 7 (left from carpark), cross the stream, turn right and follow the trail to lake Hippolyt Weiner. Cross the stream at the start of the lake, go uphill approx. 100 m to the base of the crag (46.580856, 11.159885).

All routes can be seen from main area.

1.4.3. Fragsburg 27 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.643042, 11.196381

summary

One of the older crags near Meran with little traffic. Thus some of the routes might be dusty or overgrown. Still a great crag for beginners and intermediate climbers.

1.4.4. New Fragsburg 31 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.638117, 11.202231

summary

One of the better crags near Meran with many harder routes. Can even be climbed in winter on sunny days.

approach

From Merano to Scena, at Rametz turn to Castel Fragsburg, remain on this road until you pass Fragsburg, proceed for 100 metres and park at the waterfall.

On the left take the path leading to the Fragsburg climbing garden, past the rock blocks. The routes can be approached via the iron ladder.

1.4.5. Algund 141 routes in Field

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 46.691023, 11.110801

summary

One of the most popular bouldering areas in South Tyrol.

approach

Make your way to Algund and park depending on which areas you want to go to. Also accessible by public transport.

1.4.6. Wasserfall 1 route in Cliff

Summary:

All Sport climbing

description

Arrampicata a lato della cascata

approach

Da Merano in direzione Val Venosta fino a Parcines, dal centro direzione cascata

Parcheggio Parcheggio pubblico (gratuito) presso il ristorante Birkenwald

Trasporto pubblico Con autobus da Parcines linea 265 - fermata Wasserfall

1.4.7. Burgstollknott 39 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.688442, 11.073982

description

Beim Burgstollknott handelt es sich um einen kleinen, familien- und anfängerfreundlichen Klettergarten. Da der Wandfuß recht abschüssig ist, wurde hier eigens für Familien ein angenehmer Platz mit Bänken und Tischen erbaut. Geklettert wird auf kompakten Gneis, der von Platten bis hin zum leichten Überhang alle Steilheiten aufweist. Es sind Sitzmöglichkeiten sowie eine Lagerfeuerstelle vorhanden. Weiter eine Tafel mit Topo sowie Code für Vertical-Life.

approach

Nach Partschins. Im Ort kostenfreies Parken in der Zehenstraße (46.68575833, 11.07560608) oder beim Schwimmbad (46.68492554, 11.078500139). Von dort die Zehenstraße Richtung Westen, rechts in die Römerstraße hinauf. Nach 230 Metern gibt es eine Beschilderung Klettergarten. Dieser folgen.

1.4.8. Hochgang 0 routes in Field

description

A high altitude bouldering area (above 2000m ASL) near the Hochganghaus.

1.4.9. Gingglegg 1 route in Cliff

Summary:

All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 46.706945, 11.033200

approach

Con la funivia Texel si arriva direttamente all'imbocco della famosa Alta Via di Merano (n. 24). Da lì, ci si incammina verso ovest in direzione del rifugio Nasereit e dopo circa un'ora si raggiunge la parete

1.4.10. Huafwond 38 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.684973, 11.049382

description

Die eindrucksvolle Felspyramide der Huafwond liegt in einem steilen Hang direkt oberhalb Partschins und sticht bereits von weitem heraus.Wer diesen Klettergarten besucht,dem wird eine atemberaubende Aussicht auf den Meraner Talkessel geboten. In mühevoller Arbeit wurden riesige Podeste und Bänke errichtet, um den Wandfuß gemütlicher zu machen.

approach

a)Bequem über die Texelbahn zur Bergstation und von dort in 7 min zur Wandfuss, auf dem Weg zum Dursterhof zweigt nach ca. 5 min ein Steig (Metallschild vorhanden) nach rechts (Westen) ab.

b) Mit dem Auto zum Dursterhof, von dort aus dem Wanderweg Richtung Texelbahn ca. 45 min zum Wandfuss folgen. Anschliessend den Steig (Metallschild vorhanden)in 3 min. zur Kletterwand folgen.

1.4.11. Wintertraum 28 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.652753, 10.986711

summary

A very sunny crag with climbing on edges, cracks and slopers. Great for cold days, even winter.

approach

Drive to the centre of Naturns and from there in direction of Sonnenberg until you see a bigger parking on your right (46.65825, 11.00817). From there follow the Wallburgweg for about 30 minutes until you find a trail up to the right.

1.4.12. Schnalstal 161 routes in Region

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.710159, 10.878833

summary

The Schnalstal (Val Senales) is a side valley of the Vinschgau in the autonomous province of South Tyrol, Italy.

1.4.13. Latsch 74 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.622859, 10.853232

summary

Einer der populärsten Klettergärten im Vinschgau.

One of the most popular climbing areas in the Vinschgau.

description

Der Klettergarten wird in zwei Sektoren unterteilt. Der sehr anfängerfreundliche Sektor Alpingeschichte und der anspruchsvollere Sektor Latsch Vegas der etwas weiter links liegt.

This crag is divided into three sectors:

• The very beginner-friendly sector Alpingeschichte
• The more demanding sector Latsch Vegas which is a little further to the left.
• The multipitch sector Alpin, in the middle of the cliff

approach

Mit dem Auto von der SS38 am Kreisverkehr nach Latsch abbiegen und den gratis Parkplatz auf der linken Seite verwenden (gegenüber der Seilbahn). Mit dem Bus die Haltestelle Latsch Seilbahn St. Martin. Von dort zu Fuss zurück Richtung Kreisverkehr und den Wanderschildern (Waalweg) direkt leicht bergauf folgen. Erste Abzweigung links nehmen und dem Waalweg eine Weile (ca. 600m) folgen. An der Stelle mit einer Brücke aus kleinen Holzbrettern über den Waal (kleiner Bach) nach rechts steil hinauf abbiegen (GPS 46,6231292, 10,8623393). Dann ca. 200m Weile auf dem Steindamm entlang und dann den Hang hoch. Dem Weg weiter folgen, 200m zwischen den Steinschlagauffängern aus Stahl hindurch direkt zum Klettergarten. GPS Daten: (46.623056, 10.856667)

By car from the SS38, turn off at the roundabout to Latsch and use the free car park on the left (opposite the cable car). By bus, take the bus stop Latsch Seilbahn St. Martin. From there walk back towards the roundabout and follow the hiking signs (Waalweg) directly slightly uphill. Take the first turning on the left and follow the Waalweg for a while (approx. 600m). At the point with a bridge made of small wooden planks over the Waal (small stream), turn steeply uphill to the right (GPS 46.6231292, 10.8623393). Then walk along the stone embankment for a while (200m) and then up the slope. Continue along the path, passing between the steel rockfall barriers directly to the climbing garden. GPS data: (46.623056, 10.856667)

For Alpin, take the Waalweg in the same direction. After ~300m you reach a gate. Turn left up this trail and continue through the forest to the base of the cliff.

For Latsch Vegas, directions unknown please clarify

1.4.14. Schlanders 21 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.632570, 10.779668

1.4.15. Allitz 23 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.631841, 10.714133

description

Kids friendly crag with short approach and perfect infrastructure. The crag has a large, flat base and features a table and benches. Route names are labelled at the base of the crag. The routes are short and very well protected, but partially very close to each other.

approach

Coming from the Vinschgau valley on the Strada Provinicale 109, direction Laas, there is a parking lot on the left hand side directly before crossing the bridge to Allitz. From there, signs show the way to "Klettergarten": Follow the gravel road for about 200 m until you find a footpath on the right hand side. This leads to the crag after a few meters.

where to stay

There is a nice campground and various accommodations in Laas.

1.4.16. Nesselwand - Laas 51 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.586264, 10.700568

summary

A unique experience to climb on marble make you forget the long hike!

1.4.17. Laaser Tal 4 routes in Area

Summary:

All Ice climbing

Lat / Long: 46.572488, 10.687021

1.4.18. Martelltal 116 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport climbing, Rock climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 46.538919, 10.760445

summary

Martell is a southern side valley of the Etschtal in South Tyrol. It offers several climbing crags and a huge artificial wall on the dam of Zufrittstausee.

approach

Enter the Martell from Latsch.

1.4.19. Fuchsknott 17 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.516346, 10.580278

description

A small crag for hot days.

1.4.20. Bärenfels 17 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.511992, 10.602352

description

A older crag initially equipped by the army. Great for summer an warm days.

1.4.21. Ortler 9 routes in Area

Summary:

Alpine climbing, Ice climbing and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 46.511136, 10.545961

summary

Ortler is, at 3,905 m (12,812 ft) above sea level, the highest mountain in the Eastern Alps outside the Bernina Range. It is the highest point of the Southern Limestone Alps, of South Tyrol in Italy.

1.5. Zona Bolzano e Bassa atesina 693 routes in Region

1 4 3 5 2 6 8 7 9 29 16 33 32 10 12 11 13 18 17 14 30 19 15 20 28 26 23 27 25 21 22 24

1 Sarner Scharte 2 Johanneskofel 3 Tanzbach 4 Windlahn 5 Mittelberg Grindlegg 6 Margarethenbach Wasserfall 7 Unterinn 8 Jenesien 9 Bagni Di Zolfo 10 Piccola Virgolo 11 Virgolo Cracks 12 Regno dei Ragni 13 Seitner Berg 14 The Giant's Head 15 Rio Vallarsa 16 Monte Macaion 17 Col dell'uomo 18 Montiggl crack 19 Skinwalker 20 Pfattner Wände 21 Trodena Molini 22 Fennberg 23 Graun - Hintersegg 24 Garbe 25 Cortaccia - Kurtatsch / Kreidlwaende 26 Bletterbachtal 27 Morderplotta 28 Roter Kamin / Camino Rosso 29 Unterrain 30 Matschatsch 32 Sektor "Pain" 33 Big Block

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.527440, 11.350841

summary

As a major regional city, Bolzano/Bozen has an extraordinary variety of climbing on different rock types within a 30-45 minute drive of the centre of town.

1.5.1. Sarner Scharte 10 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 46.650019, 11.407541

summary

Sarner Scharte is a large porphyr wall, approximately 400 metres in height, found in Sarntal/Val Sarentino, the valley north of Bolzano/Bozen.

description

The climbing is divided into 3 distinct areas:

• West face (the first climbed area, longest classic routes)
• South west face (the 2nd area to be developed, characterised by very low angle friction slabs)
• North west buttress (the smaller towers to north, more recently developed in a "trad" style, more modern style crack climbing)

access issues

Fatigue; there's a big fat uphill to slow you down.

Coming from Bolzano, just before Sarentino/Sarthein, turn right up towards Riedlsberg/Montenovale.

Follow this road for approx 6kms until Riedlhof. Park here, or 300m ahead at another carpark.

approach

1 - 1.5 hour approach!

From Riedlhof, follow the trail 3 to Sarner Scharte/Forcella Sarentina.

Stay on this trail for ~2kms, until you reach a point where trail 3 veers right, and to your left there's a field with a fence. Turn left, crossing the field until your enter into the forest (following trail 3B).

After ~600m, you reach a cross and an intersection. Turn right (towards the biiiig cliff), following trail 3A.

Follow this trail until you reach a climbing guide/map. From here you can access individual routes.

ethic

"Alpine climbing" ethic

Routes have been bolted only where natural protection is not available.

Almost all climbs require some natural gear, with the rock providing many nice cracks, corners, nooks and crannies to jam your flashy bits into.

Many of these routes (especially the easier grades) use natural/trad anchors! Make sure you know how to build safe trad anchors before questing up the Scharte.

history

Climbing has been happening on Sarner Scharte since the late 1970's, with the likes of Heini Holzer, Heinz Steinkötter and Hans Pescoller.

1.5.2. Johanneskofel 68 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.548073, 11.368819

description

One of the oldest developed crags near Bolzano. Located at the base of Johanneskofel near a small creek.

approach

Drive into the Sarntal and pass the palace of Runkelstein. Park in front of the 3rd tunnel. Follow the path downhill to the creek and continue down on the road along the creek. Pass a tunnel, just after that is the first sector.

1.5.3. Tanzbach 13 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.598896, 11.380447

summary

A small tower next to a creek. Popular with locals.

1.5.4. Windlahn 15 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.608793, 11.388290

description

A small crag just next to the road.

1.5.5. Mittelberg Grindlegg 26 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport climbing, Rock climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 46.572096, 11.488471

1.5.6. Margarethenbach Wasserfall 1 route in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.521916, 11.268430

1.5.7. Unterinn 47 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.508795, 11.419076

summary

A lovely SW Bolzano porphyry crag. Mostly sport climbs.

description

There about 50 routes on very compact "Bolzano porphyr". It is southwest facing, making it ideal for cooler days, morning/evening in summer or sunny winter days.

approach

From Bolzano head towards Cornedo (Karneid) and then towards the Renon. Climb the road towards the village of Unterinn. Before arriving in the town, turn left onto the Via dei Romani and park near the church (46.5077, 11.4324)

Walk up the road for about 200m, then take the first left (in front of house NR 23). Follow this for another 200m and go up a steep sealed private road. You pass a house and a little field, and when this path ends turn left. Follow this path to the crag.

history

Work started on the Unterinn crag in 2010, but it became official only in 2015.

1.5.8. Jenesien 61 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.514766, 11.316569

1.5.9. Bagni Di Zolfo 22 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.504898, 11.295805

summary

Area di arrampicata in porfido alle spalle dell'ospedale di Bolzano. Contiene diversi settori e alcune vie di arrampicata più facili.

approach

A Bolzano, seguire via Druso in direzione dell'ospedale, alla rotonda immettersi su via Merano, proseguire superando il distributore e l'incrocio con via S. Maurizio, subito dopo c'è un parcheggio sulla destra, da qua costeggiare la strada e svoltare per via S. Maurizio, subito dopo c'è una carrozzeria e a sinistra, l'ingresso alla falesia.

where to stay

Downtown b-town

ethic

Maggioranza arrampicata sportiva, alcuni vie in fessure attrezzate

1.5.10. Piccola Virgolo 9 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.489175, 11.351539

summary

Small crag, easy to reach, with most routes in the 5a-5c range. It is on the side of a walking trail and has a bench right there.

description

A small slab of high quality porphyr. Well-bolted with glue-in ringbolts, very accessible anchors (some of the rappel carabiners look a bit old).

Seems to be fairly ignored/forgotten - but it is a great beginner's climbing area close to to Oltrisarco/Aslago.

This slab is completely developed in terms of climbing. There are some other sections of rock around for future development? The quality looks worse though.

approach

• Park at Chiesa del Calvario al Virgolo / Santo Sepolcro

• Walk for 5 minutes along sentiero Nr. 4 (marked red/white stripes) until you reach the crag

history

Unknown?

1.5.11. Virgolo Cracks 6 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 46.484479, 11.359222

summary

A brilliant new crack climbing crag in the cliffs above the suburb of Oltrisarco-Aslago.

description

Routes described from L-R (looking at the cliff)

approach

(Windy Maps recommended - shows all the hiking trails)

2 different parking spots:

• Park at the abandoned hotel (46.490444, 11.356353)

  1. Follow Nr.10 for approx. 1km until you reach a T-intersection with a picnic bench.

  2. Turn left up to the boulders.

• Access from hiking trail Nr.3 in Oltrisarco/Aslago (46.483980, 11.351812)

  1. Follow Nr.3 up to the Forestry Road, turn left. After ~20m, follow the red/white hiking trail the divides to the right (slightly uphill) of the forestry road.

  2. Follow this trail for ~1km until you reach the Nr.10 trail.

  3. Turn right, follow for 1km until you reach the picnic bench at the T-intersection, turn left up to the boulders.

From the boulders (46.484137, 11.356704), you have two options to access the cliff:

• Bottom access (~15-20mins) (more difficult navigtion, requires rope ascending equipment):

  1. From the boulders, follow the main hiking trail uphill. It turns sharply left almost immediately, then after ~300m sharply to the right. After approx. 300m, a small man-made rock wall forms on the right. There is an obvious cairn on the left.

  2. Veer left off the trail, going uphill diagonally to the right at the base of small chossy wall/cliff. Continue going diagonally uphill until you reach the base of sheer cliff.

  3. Put on your harness. At this point, stay close to the cliff, continuing uphill past some old construction material & a bucket (~200m).

  4. When you reach high tree looped with some climbing rope, crack out the ascenders. Climb the rope (past 3 bolts) until you reach the crag).

• Top access (15mins):

  1. From the rock-wall/cairn, keep following the hiking trail uphill. It turns sharply left after ~1km.

  2. Continue uphill ~1km until GPS (46.484075, 11.359616).

  3. Start traversing to the right (gently downhill) until you reach the cliffs.

  4. Various trees can be used as abseil anchors to access the top anchors of climbs (always use caution & judgement, equalise two trees if you're not sure)

Extremely detailed approach here (in italian)

ethic

Trad climbing. Do not, under any conditions, bolt a climb that can potentially be climbed used natural protection.

Take your filthy semi-automatic bolt cannons elsewhere...

history

Developed in 2020/2021 Thanks to Michele Caminati!

1.5.12. Regno dei Ragni 19 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.484717, 11.355309

summary

A moderately developed climbing area found just behind Aslago/Haslach. Approx. ~20 pleasant short sport climbing routes on classic Bolzano porphyr.

description

Despite its fairly large size and proximity, this crag has been more or less ignored for a great deal of time.

Come for the climbing, stay for the zen garden! Explore Lino's magnificent water-catchment system off the rocks, rest on one of the hand-made benches or admire the beautiful tiered gardens.

access issues

None

approach

recommended approach by bicycle

By car: try and find parking somewhere in the street nearby

Starting at (46.484044, 11.351679), follow Sentiero #3 approx. 500m until you reach a large, obvious forestry road.

Turn right and walk approx 100m. On the left there is a tree with a wooden sign "falesia/klettergarten", where the trail turns sharply left. Follow the trail, at the next intersection veer left. The trail crosses the scree/boulder field and back into the woods. Continue up the trail, you will see a boulder painted with "Regno dei Ragni" and an lycra-clad 80's sport climber. You have arrived.

where to stay

Bolzano/Bozen?

ethic

The established climbs are bolted sport climbs.

Definitely potential for trad/mixed lines. Do not place bolts where natural protection can be used!

history

Try and find the wonderful Lino Marasca hanging on a rope somewhere nearby - he has been climbing here since 1954. Say hi! You'll be rewarded with some amazing stories.

2007/2008 - Fabio Bissardella bolted & rebolted the majority of the lines seen today.

1.5.13. Seitner Berg 114 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.466770, 11.346498

summary

"Seit Mountain" the large plug of Bolzano porphyr, above Bolzano & San Giacomo

Home to the crag of San Giacomo, plus sport & trad multipitches above Castle Flavon/Pareti del Sait

1.5.14. The Giant's Head 2 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 46.445332, 11.356496

summary

The legend says, in the deep, shady valley above Steinmannwald, there lies an old giant who protects the forest and the animals from the evils of humanity. We just see his head, and there we climb!

description

A brand-spanking new crag above Pineta/Steinmannwald. Got some mighty potential for a bit of everything - roofs, cracks, slabs, aretes.

access issues

The road from Pineta - La Costa is * officially * closed but driveable. Go at your own risk etc ...

approach

Driving:

1. Take the road from Pineta/Steinm. in direction of La Costa/Seit.

2. Park at (46.445772, 11.354566) Have a look at the crag from the hunter's lookout - down to the right.

3. From the sharp corner, turn L taking the small semi-obvious trail going uphill. Follow the trail uphill (it zig-zags a little, try and stick to the main trail and keep marking it out). You pass an old wire fence and a small clearing on the left. Start veering lightly to the right, up a steeper slippery slope (30m) to a flat section, an old mountain road/hunter's trail (46.445784, 11.355571) (about 200m in total).

   Lower access: From here, follow the trail downhill to the right. Go over a section of fallen trees, looking out for the cairns (stone piles). From the trees, go straight, traversing the slope for approx. 100m to the base of the cliff (46.445251, 11.356365).

   Top access: From the road/trail (46.445784, 11.355571), continue uphill, tending slightly to the right (towards the crag), for approx. 100-150m until you reach another flat section, with a single-track hunter's trail (46.445802, 11.356000). Turn right on the trail, turning towards the crag. Follow the trail, through thicker vegetation (the trail becomes very obvious), up a small rock-step (standing on an old tree stump), gently uphill, then finally a rocky down-step (watch out for the spiky bushes). Walk along the back edge of the cliff (staying close to the forest), then approach the main edge of the cliff from the easternmost side. There is some old rope on a reliable abseil tree at the top of the cliff (46.445325, 11.356526).

   Abseil on a 60m (plus extension to the edge of the cliff, rope protector recommended). Secondary abseil at 30m possible off

ethic

TRAD ONLY

NO BOLTS

This rock has amazing potential for naturally protected lines. Do not destroy this potential with bolts!

If a new climb needs a bolt(s) in order to not be a death route, contact (tgbuckley) or any of the other new-school developers around Bolzano (Red Rocks guidebook developers or M. Camminati)

history

Exploration around this cliff started in summer 2021, followed by the first lines going up in the following autumn.

1.5.15. Rio Vallarsa 0 routes in Crag

summary

The big, beautiful crumbly walls above the Rio Vallarsa

description

A huge area of cliffline ranging from single pitch to rambling multis.

Lots of potential for development (between the choss)

access issues

Unknown

approach

Cross the Rio Vallarsa above Casa Emmaus

ethic

sconosciuto

history

sconosciuto

1.5.16. Monte Macaion 2 routes in Area

Summary:

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.493860, 11.210568

summary

Macaion/Gantkofel is known for being the extraordinary prominent face looking down on Bolzano from the SW. It is most obvious on the drive to Meran(o)

description

Some alpine-style routes are present on the large faces. Rock quality is average

1.5.17. Col dell'uomo 30 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.446793, 11.299687

summary

Another great porphyr crag, found in the centre of the Monticolo/Montiggl forest.

description

Originally developed by the Club Alpino Italian & Alpenverein Sudtirol, this is a lovely beginner/intermediate crag found in the middle of the forest near Monticolo/Montiggl lake.

The rock is Bolzano porphyr of varying quality, all routes are 20m or less (you're ok with a 40m rope).

Lots of good quality beginner/intermediate routes, with a couple of advanced climbs too. Nothing above 7b, so the crushers should look elsewhere.

Toprope access for almost all the climbs; a via ferrata goes along the top of the cliff, with bolts that you can use to abseil to the top-anchor of the climbs.

approach

1.

Park at Sportzone "Rungg" / Zona Sportiva "Rungg".

Take the "Rungg" Forestry road to the right of the sports field. Stay on this road until you reach a barrier.

From the barrier, follow a wide trail for approx. 20 minutes to the crag. (marked "Palestra di roccia)

2.

BICYCLE APPROACH from Bolzano etc (approx. 35-40 mins walk)

On the Valle dell'Adige cycle path, leave your bike on the corner after the bridge at GPS (46.447492, 11.307097).

Looking towards the farmer's field, go left up and around the gate (there is an ok-ish trail).

Follow this trail uphill, turning left almost immediately. Pay attention to cairns (piles of rocks indicating the trail), due to landslides the trail changes directions multiple times.

Eventually you'll reach an old road that continues traversing up the hill. You are aiming for GPS (46.452097, 11.299512) on top of the hill.

When you reach the trail junction at the top of the hill turn left (south) and walk 5-10 minutes to the crag (indicated with signs).

history

Many thanks to the Alpenverein & Club Italiano Alpino of Appiano.

1.5.18. Montiggl crack 1 route in Area

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 46.447395, 11.302943

description

Hidden wall closed to col dell'uomo with view on the rivers Eisack, Etsch and the south part of Bozen. Until now only one completely clean route set. There is some potential for bolting a Sportclimbing sector. But please be Respectful with landowners and wildlife. Owls nesting on the lower part of the wall, please do not abseil there, contact Sempervivum for more info.

approach

Same access as col dell' uomo crag until you reach the meaddow with electricity lines. Follow the path parallel to the electricity lines, after a short uphill section there is a yellow/ black marking and a trail starting at the left side. Folow for +- 50 m and you can see the wall at your left. Now you have 2 possibilities: follow the wall to get to the bottom of the route, or follow the path to get to the top to build an anchor for some inspection or toprope.

ethic

Quite area with not too much humans, please be respectfull. Potential for Sportclimbing but have to be checked with officials, Owl nesting has benn seen in one part of the wall.

1.5.19. Skinwalker 4 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 46.434565, 11.243586

summary

The final porphyr above Appiano/Eppan before arriving at Passo della Mendola.

approach

Park the car in one of the two laybys on the main road and enter by foot in the area closed by the bar. Go uphill to the right and then down after the hunting hut. Leave the path and diagonally cross the rocky zone upwards, until you reach a vague trail on the top-right of it (cairns). Follow the trail up towards the cliff and then back left. Go all the way up and left and pass an exposed section (rope in place). From here you can go up to "Skinwalker" or left to "Toewalker" .

1.5.20. Pfattner Wände 6 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 46.403287, 11.292427

summary

The stupendous cliffs above Pfattner/Vadena, composed of the obvious columns of Bozen/Bolzano porphyr.

description

Almost the entirety of the cliffs is undeveloped - in the last 7/8 years a handful of routes have gone up on/around a column of high-quality rock in the middle of the cliff.

access issues

Warning do not let rocks fall into the forest/fields below the cliff. There have been problems with the farmers who live below, and the police.

approach

Set the GPS for Lago di Monticolo / Montigglsee.

Follow the signs for Monticolo.

Parking options:

1. (46.42267, 11.28172), Drive through the roundabout down to the lake. On the big L-hand corner, before Hotel Moser and the paid carpark, turn right down a small road. After about 200m, there is a small carpark on the side of the road (4 spots)

2. (46.424675, 11.282478) You will notice leading to the lake that many people park on the side of the road - if it is a busy day this might be your best free option.

3. Use the paid parking at the roundabout (46.422970, 11.28186) OR drive down to the lake (46.421860, 11.286033) (you save 10mins walking, often full)

From here, continue on foot along the forestry road through the woods. Follow it all the way until you reach the RAI Radio Station & antennae.

50m before the building, a trail branches off to the right, which you follow until you see the drop-off on the left. At the next gentle curve to the right, you leave the trail to find the top anchors of various climbs.

ethic

Big crack systems on solid rock. A lifetime of high-quality trad lines available on the cliff. Please do not put bolts where climbs can be protected with trad gear!

history

Earliest development in 2009 by the Riegler brothers' Cojote.

1.5.21. Trodena Molini 70 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.313174, 11.322620

description

The wall diagram is located in place in a notice board hanging on the rock.

There is a third sector of which there is no report. It is characterized by more demanding routes than the other 2 and can be traced thanks to a sign placed on one of the hairpin bends above the hotel (therefore continuing the road by car).

approach

"Zur Muhle" (at the mill) recognizable by the water mill wheels and the wooden gutter suspended above the road. There it is possible to park. Take the road towards the valley, on the right side you will immediately find a sign indicating the gym. 5-10 minutes of trail.

Parking space of "Zur Mühle". Park as far down as possible.

1.5.22. Fennberg 41 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.288976, 11.177193

1.5.23. Graun - Hintersegg 22 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.320106, 11.213352

approach

(46.321175, 11.215494)

1.5.24. Garbe 18 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.251866, 11.239725

description

A small crag also nice on hot days.

1.5.25. Cortaccia - Kurtatsch / Kreidlwaende 8 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 46.316948, 11.200281

1.5.26. Bletterbachtal 1 route in Area

Summary:

All Ice climbing

Lat / Long: 46.356536, 11.395970

1.5.27. Morderplotta 45 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.317182, 11.211617

summary

A very sunny crag with good rock quality.

Dolomite or Limestone?

Please help

description

A high concentration of 6's & 7's means Mother Nature, akak the God of Rock, aka Bon Jovi, has provided us all with a TRAINING GROUND.

Get out here, slap on some tight lycra and GET SWEATING.

An abundance of fingery, crimpy, technical climbing awaits the FUTURE SEND.

approach

In the car, drive to Cortaccia, then navigate your way to (46.315215, 11.210238). Find a spot on the corner somewhere.

From the car, walk ~100m back towards Cortaccia. Turn left up the small, steep road (marked "solo per abitanti"). Follow the road and around to the right, past some gravel parking spaces, then up and left around the sharp bend.

Continue straight where the "Alter Grauenweg" goes right. Another ~200m, then on the sharp R corner, a hiking divides to the L.

Follow this ~20m to the crag.

where to stay

Sleep in you car in the carpark? Fucked if I know

ethic

Bolts, sport climbing.

Bring a brush! Some climbs are veeeeeeeeeeeery smoogey and slippery

history

??

1.5.28. Roter Kamin / Camino Rosso 2 routes in Area

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.376223, 11.330182

summary

Parking the Car at the Aldeiner Hof in Burgstall ( Montan,Ora ) Take the Hiking Trail in the direction of Rotwand from the platform of the rotwand you go on the path towards the small lake. after 50m go down to the left into the wood for 40m and follow the rocky strip up to the top of the pillar.to get to the base you have to rappel down three times. each belay chain with ring

description

Roter Kamin / Camino Rosso

approach

dalla piattaforma della rotwand si va avanti il sentiero verso laghetto. dopo 50m si scende verso sinistra nel bosco per 40m e si segue la fascia rocciosa fino il top del pilastro. per arrivare alla base obbligatorio tre calate. ogni sosta catena con anello. obbligatorio 6a

history

stupendo camino di 60m roccia ottima

1.5.29. Unterrain 1 route in Area

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 46.497561, 11.245888

approach

Park your car at Unterrain / Riva di sotto and follow the road trough the apple fields leading to the wall.

ethic

Clean crack climb witch bolted belays. !! Be aware of the road passing under the wall, used by bikers, hikers and farmers!!

1.5.30. Matschatsch 6 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 46.443771, 11.241742

summary

Quality single Pitch crack climbs on eccelent Rock with acces from above trough abseiling on trees or Bolts. Potential for new crack climbs, please contact autor for informations.

approach

Park in the parking lot near Castel Matschatsch, take the forest road to the big meadow, follow it to reach the opposing corner of it to reach a small humid area and the rock edge, on your right you can already see the "Fingerspitzengefühl“ sector. Look for a small trail following the cliffs edge leading to an old highline anchor with 3 bolts. Follow the path close to the cliff edge witch leads to a little canyon on the left. For "Doppelmoral" descent the canyon for 30 meters and you will see the corner with bolted beay at your left. For the other Routes dont descent the canyon but cross it to get on the cliff edge again. Shortly after there will be "Corstisol management" and "Three little birds" on your left and if you continue the path there are the last 2 routes on your left. If you reach the second iron hearth you are too far, go back a bit and check the cliff edge

ethic

Trad climbing area, we would like to keep bolts only on belays where natural protection is not possible,

sensitive area

history

Discovered in November 2020

1.5.31. Etsch Flussboulder 18 routes in Field

Summary:

All Bouldering

description

Größtenteils kleine Boulder mit max. Höhe 2 Meter.

1.5.32. Sektor "Pain" 7 routes in Boulder

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 46.489449, 11.349755

description

4,5 Meter high Bloc near sector "Piccola Virgolo"

approach

Near the road around 50 lower than "Piccola Virgolo"

1.5.33. Big Block 1 route in Area

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 46.492254, 11.355194

summary

Big Boulder in the Virgl-Area. Still has a lot of potential for new Boulders up to the 8.grade.

approach

Take the trail near the highway up to virgl.

1.6. Dolomiti di Braies 249 routes in Region

1 7 2 5 8 6 3

1 Laboratorio 2 Ciastlins 3 Punta del Pin 5 Kirchler 6 Plätzwiese 7 Pragser Wildsee 8 Rosslahne Eisklettergarten

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.666892, 12.067330

1.6.1. Laboratorio 32 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.699067, 11.947734

description

One of only a few conglomerate crags in Northern Italy. The crag is fairly new and rarely visited. The routes are often short and require maximal strength.

approach

From Brunico go up the Val Badia to Longega, turn left towards Vigilio di Marebbe, then in the direction of Pederü, immediately after that again right on Via "Al Plan Dessora". At the first bend to the left, park. From here it is about 200 meters on a path in the woods to the left and then 5 minutes to the cliff.

1.6.2. Ciastlins 75 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.683248, 11.970318

summary

The combination of a great landscape and the lake make this one of the favorite crags in the area.

approach

From Val Pusteria turn towards Val Badia and continue towards San Vigilio di Marebbe and Pederü, passing a soccer field and a restaurant on the lake. Cross the bridge and arrive at the parking lot. From here, take the path that runs alongside the river to the cliff.

1.6.3. Punta del Pin 2 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 46.636525, 12.157840

1.6.4. Brüggele 25 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

description

Very nicely located summer crag, right by the stream. Convenient access, close to the road but very little traffic. While the protection has been recently refurbished with new glue-in bolts, the old ugly and huge armouring iron protection has unfortunately not been removed.

1.6.5. Kirchler 25 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.673110, 12.172114

summary

A remote crag. Due to the long approach it is rarely crowded and the views are amazing.

approach

Pass the Albergo Brückele and the first few hairpin turns after it. Park just after a hairpin turn 5 and hike up the steep trail to reach trail number 3. You will first encounter sector B, then sector A.

1.6.6. Plätzwiese 29 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.658908, 12.184597

summary

A great crag for summer at high altitude. Well bolted multi-pitch lines.

approach

Same as for "Kirchler" but continue until a parking before the Albergo Plätzwiese and hike up on the left. You can also follow Höhenweg 3 from Kirchler to Plätzwiese.

1.6.7. Pragser Wildsee 55 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.696323, 12.084912

summary

Pragser Wildsee is a beautiful place with 2 climbing areas, one left and one right of the lake.

approach

Drive in the directions for Lago di Braies. At the lake the road ends with a paid parking. Check individual sectors for details.

1.6.8. Rosslahne Eisklettergarten 6 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Ice climbing

Lat / Long: 46.660697, 12.141323

approach

Start at Gasthof Brückele. From there follow the road to the south. About 30-40 min approach from the parking.

1.7. Alpe di Siusi / Seiser Alm 100 routes in Area

2 1

1 Sciliar / Schlern 2 Siusi

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.516640, 11.560685

summary

Rugged alpine climbing on inspiring faces and towers

description

Mountains and ski resort, a part of Süd Tirol / Alto Adige and hence most places have an Italian and a German name

approach

Buses run regularly from Bolzano / Bozen to Siusi / Seis. Expansive network of signposted trails to huts and often to the starts of routes.

where to stay

Siusi / Seis. Town and ski resort with options ranging from B&Bs and luxury hotels for accommodation.

1.7.1. Sciliar / Schlern 21 routes in Area

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 46.516036, 11.564575

summary

Rugged alpine climbing on inspiring faces and towers

description

http://www.schlernalpin.com is the go to spot online for information, route topos and more

approach

From Siusi / Seis (regular buses from Bolzano / Bozen), there are signposted trails leading to a mountain hut, the Schlernbodenhütte, from which most of the climbs can be accessed, some via the signposted Gamssteig ("chamois trail")

where to stay

Schlernbodenhütte: a mountain hut close to many of the climbs Rifugio Bolzano: a mountain hut a few hours walk from Siusi / Seis Siusi / Seis: a town with several accommodation options

1.7.2. Siusi 79 routes in Area

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.538283, 11.562123

1.8. Val Gardena 129 routes in Region

1 5 2 4 3

1 Pontives 2 La Cava 3 Palestra Bernardi 4 Stevia 5 Seura Sass

Summary:

Bouldering, Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 46.571972, 11.686722

1.8.1. Pontives 63 routes in Field

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 46.590367, 11.635074

summary

Blocks of porphyr dispersed in teh wood.

description

Shady due to trees.

1.8.2. La Cava 37 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.577439, 11.643232

description

Former quarry directly at the road but quiet enough because of a earth wall. Most routes are artificial.

access issues

One tourist website suggests this crag is closed due to rockfall risk https://www.val-gardena.com/en/summer/climbing-val-gardena-dolomites/sport-climbing/

approach

Park directly in front of the crag.

where to stay

In Ortisei you will find a lot of accommodations reaching from cheap apartments and B&B up to 5 star hotels.

ethic

Almost all routes are artificial, so no ethic discussions here.

1.8.3. Palestra Bernardi 12 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.541503, 11.768771

1.8.4. Stevia 4 routes in Area

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 46.577063, 11.760714

1.8.5. Seura Sass 13 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.578234, 11.711534

summary

Klettergarten bei St. Christina

1.9. Puez-Odle 119 routes in Region

6 5 13 2 12 4 1 3 8 7 9 10

1 Piz la Dorada 2 Campill 3 Parei dl Ciastel 4 Lietres Turm 5 Sass de Putia 6 Würzjoch / Passo delle Erbe 7 Col Toronn 8 Sass Ciampac 9 Punta Pinaider 10 Grand Cir 12 Geislergruppe 13 Klettergarten Zanser Alm

Summary:

Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 46.589595, 11.815431

1.9.1. Piz la Dorada 3 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 46.566040, 11.843807

1.9.2. Campill 32 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.617831, 11.856101

1.9.3. Parei dl Ciastel 0 routes in Crag

1.9.4. Lietres Turm 2 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 46.575758, 11.817873

1.9.5. Sass de Putia 5 routes in Crag

Summary:

Trad climbing, Sport climbing and Ice climbing

Lat / Long: 46.657877, 11.817297

1.9.6. Würzjoch / Passo delle Erbe 3 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.665412, 11.818858

summary

Nice frag below the north face oft Peitlerkofel / Sass de Putia

approach

Signs lead you to the "Klettergarten" from Würzjoch

1.9.7. Col Toronn 1 route in Area

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 46.559919, 11.825750

1.9.8. Sass Ciampac 3 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 46.561802, 11.830705

1.9.9. Punta Pinaider 1 route in Area

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 46.557855, 11.808280

1.9.10. Grand Cir 2 routes in Area

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 46.557854, 11.805307

1.9.11. Cir V 1 route in Area

Summary:

All Rock climbing

1.9.12. Geislergruppe 14 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 46.607733, 11.766920

1.9.13. Klettergarten Zanser Alm 52 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.621783, 11.774189

1.10. Gruppo di Fanes 528 routes in Region

1 4 5 2 3 6 10 11 8 7 9 12 15 14 16 13 17

1 Sas de Crosta 2 Cima Nove 3 Sass de la Crusc 4 Nêa 5 Pederü 6 Piz de Lavarela 7 Sass Dlacia 8 Torre del Lago 9 Cima Scotoni 10 Bandiarac Pfeiler 11 Panorama 12 Salares 13 Sass De Stria 14 Passo Valparola 15 Piccolo Lagazuoi 16 Torri di Falzarego 17 Monte Castello del Settzass

Summary:

Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 46.588330, 11.991532

1.10.1. Sas de Crosta 1 route in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 46.662566, 11.969240

description

The Paresberg (Ladin Sas de Crosta, Italian Monte Pares, 2396 m s.l.m.) is a mountain in the Fanes Group in the Dolomites. It is the first larger and rocky peak in the ridge running from northwest to southeast, which separates the Wengental valley in the southwest from the Rautal valley in the northeast. On its northern and eastern sides, the mountain is very rocky and rugged; it is less forbidding from the west. From the summit, a quite distinctive ridge initially leads in a south-easterly direction at a fairly constant altitude; after a little more than three kilometres, the course of the ridge turns in a southerly direction and climbs to the Antonispitze (2655 m). The view is dominated in the south by the forbidding northern slopes of the Neuner and Zehner. Source Wikipedia

approach

The mountain, which is protected in the Fanes-Sennes-Prags Nature Park, is most easily accessible from the west from the Wengental, an eastern side valley of the Gadertal. Source Wikipedia

1.10.2. Cima Nove 2 routes in Crag

Summary:

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.630409, 11.980434

1.10.3. Sass de la Crusc 10 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 46.610978, 11.948606

description

The Sass dla Crusc (German Heiligenkreuzkofel, also Rosskofel or L Ćiaval, Italian Sasso di Santa Croce) is a 2907 m s.l.m. high mountain in the Fanes Group in the Dolomites. It borders the South Tyrolean Val Badia to the east and is part of the Fanes-Sennes-Braies Nature Park. Below the western wall are the pilgrimage church of Heilig Kreuz and the Schutzhaus Heiligkreuz-Hospiz.

In the western walls of the Heiligkreuzkofel there are climbing routes of well-known alpinists such as Georges "the Greek" Livanos †, Sepp Mayerl, Albert Precht, Reinhard Schiestl, Prem Darshano, Heinz Mariacher, Luisa Iovane and Christoph Hainz.

Of particular importance is the central pillar opened in 1968 by Reinhold and Günther Messner, one of the most difficult routes at that time. At that time it was rated with difficulty level VI (the UIAA scale at that time was a closed scale), today with VII+. Heinz Mariacher succeeded in repeating this route for the first time in 1978, but with an easier (VII) bypass of the key point. It was not until 1988 that Andreas Orgler and Otti Wiedmann managed the first free repetition of the key passage.

Further modern routes are 'Loss lei, heb schun', 'Jugendliebe', 'Friedl Mutschlechner-/Carlo Großrubatscher-Gedächtnisweg' by Christoph Hainz and A. Oberbacher and 'Auf die Felsen ihr Affen' also by Hainz.

Source Wikipedia

1.10.4. Nêa 25 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.646214, 12.019652

summary

Climbing on vertical walls. Although it is located in a very beautiful area, it is a rarely visited crag and some routes may be a bit dirty.

approach

From Brunico go up the Val Badia towards San Vigilio di Marebbe and follow "Pederü", pay attention to the signs, you will find indications for the cliff which can be reached in a few minutes.

1.10.5. Pederü 23 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.636895, 12.043141

summary

Crag surrounded by a beautiful environment with routes in low and medium grades.

approach

From Brunico go up the Val Badia until you get to Longega and then continue to Pederü following the signs. Park the car at the hut and continue on foot.

1.10.6. Piz de Lavarela 1 route in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 46.585166, 11.970761

description

The Piz de Lavarela is the northwestern end point of the mountain massif extending to the southeast, which shows itself from the western St. Kassian in the Gadertal as a huge rock wall and separates the valley from the eastern Fanes. Piz de Lavarela is separated from the slightly higher Piz Cunturines (3064 m) by the Lavarela plateau (2885 m).

1.10.7. Sass Dlacia 208 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.554462, 11.980098

description

The biggest Sportclimbing Area in the Dolomites!

1.10.8. Torre del Lago 1 route in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 46.557426, 12.002347

1.10.9. Cima Scotoni 2 routes in Crag

Summary:

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.551722, 12.010712

1.10.10. Bandiarac Pfeiler 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 46.565960, 11.978205

description

A sharp tower above the Capanna Alpina.

approach

From the restaurant Capanna Alpina in St. Kassian follow the path towards the bottom of the wall until you reach the first rock and a small waterfall.

descent notes

Abseil over the route 'Besser später als nie'. At top of the route you will find a Steinmann. From there belay nine times. 50m twin or half ropes are mandatory.

1.10.11. Panorama 4 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.564288, 11.990800

1.10.12. Salares 43 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.541156, 11.989202

description

Diese Kletterwand, die vor einigen Jahren vom unermüdlichen Armin Craffonara entdeckt wurde, besteht vor allem aus Routen, die einen hohen Grad an Ausdauer verlangen. Von leicht bis stark überhängend erreichen einige Routen sogar 40 Meter an Höhe. Der Ausblick auf das Gadertal ist spektakulär. Bei günstigen Bedin- gungen kann man bis am späten Abend klettern, da die Felswand nach Westen ausgerichtet ist und relativ hoch gelegen ist.

access issues

Achtung: Bei starken Unwettern sollte man sich nicht mehr auf dem Zustiegsweg aufhalten, da dieser Steinschlag und Muren ausgesetzt ist.

approach

Vom Parkplatz der alten Militärstraße für einige hundert Meter folgen. Dann zweigt ein Weg nach rechts ab (20a/Rifugio Scotoni), der direkt zum Klettergarten führt.

1.10.13. Sass De Stria 59 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.522413, 11.995534

description

https://www.summitpost.org/sass-de-stria/436960

approach

Park above on the road and go down to the crags

1.10.14. Passo Valparola 70 routes in Area

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 46.528536, 11.992948

description

Bouldering area.

1.10.15. Piccolo Lagazuoi 57 routes in Area

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 46.528639, 12.004952

1.10.16. Torri di Falzarego 12 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 46.525321, 12.023530

1.10.17. Monte Castello del Settzass 2 routes in Crag

Summary:

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.520429, 11.968879

1.11. Gruppo del Sassolungo 349 routes in Region

8 9 1 2 7 6 4 3 5

1 Sassolungo 2 Cinque Dita 3 Punta Grohmann 4 Innerkoflerturm 5 Zahnkofel 6 Città dei Sassi 7 Sassopiatto 8 Singing Rocks 9 Campanile Comici

Summary:

Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 46.517598, 11.728796

description

The Langkofel Group (German: Langkofelgruppe) is a massif in the (western) Dolomites. It separates Gröden (to the north) and the Fassa valley (to the south), as well as the Sella massif (to the east) and the Rosengarten (to the west). Northwest of the Langkofel is the Seiser Alm. The highest point in the range is the eponymous Langkofel with a height of 3181 metres. Taken together, the summits of the Langkofel form an arc which is only open towards the northwest. Within this arc there is only one small mountain, the Langkofelkarspitze, so that the group surrounds a kind of "inner courtyard".

approach

Coming from the north on the A22 take the exit "Val Gardena - Klausen - Gröden". Follow the signs to Val Gardena until you reach Selva (1620m, German: Wolkenstein) after 50 minutes. Then drive to the Passo Sella (2240m). Short before and below the pass, behind the Passo Sella Dolomiti Mountain Resort you may park on a big parking lot.

where to stay

• Rifugio Toni Demetz
• Rifugio Vicenza (German: Langkofelhütte)
• Rifugio Carlo Valentini
• Rifugio Salei Di Monteleone S.N.C.
• Rifugio Friedrich August
• Rifugio Micheluzzi
• Rifugio Sasso Piatto
• Passo Sella Dolomiti Mountain Resort (former Rifugio Passo Sella)

1.11.1. Sassolungo 27 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport climbing, Trad climbing and Alpine climbing

Lat / Long: 46.522482, 11.736070

description

The Sassolungo is the main summit of the Sassolungo group in the Dolomites of Val Gardena and a well-known climbing mountain. The name "Langkofel" Ladin "Saslonch", Italian "Sassolungo", respectively meaning "long stone / rock".

The Sassolungo (3181 m) extends over one kilometer in NW-SE direction. Together with with his so called "Langkofeleck" east summit it builds in terms of area the half of the group. The normal route leads through the southwest wall to the Gipfelverbindungsgrat (II) and from there to the summit (III) and is extremely long. The first ascent was made on August 13, in 1869 by Paul Grohmann (1838-1908). On the Sassolungo is a bivouac as an emergency shelter.

In a natural niche on the east side of the Sassolungo a about 3 meters high carved wooden Madonna is installed. It was set up by the sculptor Flavio Pancheri itself and the Catores (Alpine School and Mountain Guides Val Gardena) in the 1950s. The 'Rampenführe' climbs above this Madonna.

1.11.2. Cinque Dita 4 routes in Crag

Summary:

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.513771, 11.737225

description

Famous and accessible area of Sassolungo - many routes close to Rifugio Toni Demetz

approach

To access most routes:

From Passo Sella, take the cable car or Sentiero 525 to Rifugio Toni Demetz.

where to stay

Rifugio Toni Demetz

1.11.3. Punta Grohmann 9 routes in Crag

Summary:

Alpine climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 46.510507, 11.734684

1.11.4. Innerkoflerturm 14 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Alpine climbing, Trad climbing and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 46.511192, 11.728834

1.11.5. Zahnkofel 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 46.509358, 11.725950

1.11.6. Città dei Sassi 274 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport climbing, Bouldering and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 46.512286, 11.752358

summary

Short routes at boulders in an alpine surrounding.

description

The Cittá Dei Sassi (Italian, German: Steinerne Stadt) is a boulder field below its parent 'Sasso Lungo'. A long time ago those boulders belonged to the great mountain, nowadays they provide a lot of short routes in a very scenic location.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7lpRIOUbAaU

approach

Park at the Passo Sella Dolomiti Mountain Resort. From the 5-20 minutes to the boulders.

where to stay

See 'Gruppo del Sassolungo'

1.11.7. Sassopiatto 1 route in Cliff

Summary:

All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 46.513403, 11.713544

1.11.8. Singing Rocks 16 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.528814, 11.742694

1.11.9. Campanile Comici 1 route in Area

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 46.527452, 11.731029

1.12. Gruppo del Sella 344 routes in Region

19 1 8 3 6 4 7 2 27 5 20 11 9 24 21 18 25 22 23 13 14 15 16 17

1 Tridentina 2 Paradise 3 Mur de Pisciadu 4 Brigata Tridentina 5 Cra da la Mirí 6 Parte Oscura della Luna 7 Murfrëittürmes 8 Frea 9 Cansla 11 Mëisules dala Biesces 13 Torri del Sella 14 Piz Ciavazes 15 Pilastro " Pela de Micel " 16 Pian Schiavaneis 17 Sass Pordoi 18 Piz Miara 19 Eiszeit 20 Boeseekofel 21 Palestra del Lago 22 Col de Stagn 23 Palla del Guide 24 Bastionata dei Camosci 25 Piccola Torre 27 Torre Colfosco

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.519901, 11.827199

1.12.1. Tridentina 43 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.545533, 11.825878

summary

Pumpy climbing on good holds. Shade all day, rain protected but seeps after prolonged rain.

description

Mostly single pitch climbing through vertical & steep terrain on great features. Fully bolted. An 80m rope is recommended for many routes especially up in Eiszeit sector. Crag can seep for a while after rain but not all are affected.

approach

From the car park (46.54697, 11.82103) the walls are on your right looling down the valley. Take the track marked for via ferrata brigata, this will take you direct to the lower sector (Basso, 3 min). Scramble up scree path to Alto sector. For Eiszeit, take the path from the top (SW) of the carpark and follow the climbers track up the hill for 10m.

1.12.2. Paradise 8 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.538574, 11.830446

1.12.3. Mur de Pisciadu 3 routes in Area

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.542497, 11.822834

1.12.4. Brigata Tridentina 1 route in Area

Summary:

All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 46.540085, 11.826686

description

Via ferrata climbs a wall on the north flank of the Sella Massif, next to a waterfall up to the plateau/shelf that runs around partway up the Massif.

1.12.5. Cra da la Mirí 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.536240, 11.839764

1.12.6. Parte Oscura della Luna 7 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.540950, 11.837654

summary

Multipitch sport climbing on excellent rock.

description

A series of new bolted multi pitch sport routes on the face just to the right of the Val Mezdi. Routes between 6 and 9 pitches on excellent rock, especially in the upper pitches. Generally well-bolted.

Some info can also be found here: https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/oscura_della_luna-15542/

access issues

Easy stroll from nearby carpark. Passing tourists will take photos of you climbing.

approach

Around 30 min hike from car parking at the top station of Sodlisia cable car. Follow marked trail 651 (Val de Mezdi/4h to Rif. Boe) and cross the river at the bottom of the wall (large wooden bridge). Make a right after climbing up a bit after this bridge, then after about 150m, make a left into a meadow to gain a trail on the meadow's left side, leading to the base of the wall. "Indian Summer", "Legoland" and "Orwell" start a bit higher up on the wall; you have to scramble up to a sort of porch (around II). The other three routes ("Blade Runner", "Hall 9000" and "de Profundis") start on the base a bit further right along the wall.

Descent

"Legoland", "Orwell", "Blade Runner" and "Hall 9000" are equipped to rap, but it's possible to scramble off (preferred due to risk of rockfall). Make your way through a few bushes and trees, and walk up and into the Val de Mezdi for about 1 km, until you find the hiking trail guiding you back down.

where to stay

Nearby campground.

ethic

Sport.

1.12.7. Murfrëittürmes 1 route in Cliff

Summary:

All Ice climbing

Lat / Long: 46.539741, 11.806055

1.12.8. Frea 49 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.544219, 11.807512

approach

Park at the the Passo Gardena. Follow the road below the crag and then use one of the trails to reach the bottom of the crag. To reach the upper sectors use the via ferrata that starts in the sector 'Bittersüss und Fingerkraut'

1.12.9. Cansla 67 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.531536, 11.786381

description

Almost all routes lead across gray, usually slightly inclined dolomite slabs. All routes are well secured with bolts or pitons, as well as the stands; always sufficient, a 50-meter rope, also for rappelling. 10 quickdraws are in most cases enough.

All sectors are facing west with sun from 12 clock until sunset; in midsummer very nice evening.

Best season is from May to October, depending on snow and weather conditions. The best certainly from July to September.

approach

From Wolkenstein you drive towards Passo Sella to the junction of the mountain pass that leads to Passo Gardena. You drive straight ahead (towards Passo Sella), about 300 meters to a large parking lot; in just a few minutes away from here all sectors of the climbing area.

About the parking lot you can clearly see the western wall of the Meisules dla Biesces. The left half consists of gray, compact limestone slabs, while the right side dominates yellow-brittle rock. Right below it is a striking slab pillars, the 'Traumpfeiler'. Right of the pillar flows a waterfall, which is usually dried out in the summer months. In five minutes you reach the base of the falls. If you follow this path of traces left (50 m), one arrives at a wire rope passes to the right of the entrances to the 'Traumpfeiler'. If you follow the little path marked out to the left so it is a mere 150 meters below the Snoopy slab, which is left bounded by a striking scale. Just to the right of the above-mentioned waterfall is a slab with six routes (6a). From here a steep path leads to the right to 'Woodstock' slab.

history

The history of the climbing area Cansla begins in 1983 At that time S. Stuflesser and G.Demetz from St. Ulrich started the job, to explore the western wall of the Meisules dla Biesces. Your first bolts they beat in a short limestone slab, the so-called "Snoopy-Platte". Here is the first sport climbing routes in the Sella group emerged: 'Snoopy', 'Unmögliche Phantasie' and new annual pitches with ever increasing difficulty.

A year later, the striking, 150-meter-high pillar slab was developed below the striking yellow wall. S. Stuflesser and C. Großrubatscher set up the route 'Traumpfeiler' from above; with this classic, which gave its name to the pillar, a new era began in Val Gardena: the time of extreme and safe sport climbing. You have to imagine that until 1983 there's not a single bolts was beaten in the modern sense. For climbing in the area Val Gardena, Dolomites and in the whole, the early eighties were thus a period of prosperity and the expansion of boundaries. Nevertheless, bolting in the Dolomites was strongly asked over and over again in question. And is today.

After the first ascent of 'Traumpfeiler', a VIII, on which still overhang specialists tough time, the climbing opportunities have multiplied in Cansla, be it on 'Traumpfeiler' itself as well as the 'Woodstock' slabs on the right. The industrious among the route setters, members of the Gardena Alpinist group "GAG", were Simon Demetz, Karl Vinatzer, Manfred Stuffer and Adam Holzknecht. But the route setters of "G.A.G." had not only sport climbing routes well prepared, but also extreme first ascents in alpine terrain, especially in the Sella group performed.

At present the visitors of Cansla find about 90 pitches, offer the most vertical, partly overhanging climbing. The most difficult tour of the crag is 'Furia'. The large roof at the left edge of the pillar was first climbed in 1990 by Manfred Stuffer. Repetitions are to 2010 not known.

1.12.10. Pala Cengia 1 route in Area

Summary:

All Trad climbing

1.12.11. Mëisules dala Biesces 6 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 46.534082, 11.787813

1.12.12. Parete delle Mésules 1 route in Area

Summary:

All Trad climbing

1.12.13. Torri del Sella 23 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 46.510619, 11.777133

summary

One of the most popular and accessible climbing areas in the Dolomites, with a great number of alpine, trad and sport routes a short walk from Sella Pass.

approach

Park at and walk from the Sella Pass following well defined trails to the foot of the various Towers. The first tower is the lowest and closest to the road. The second is behind it and to the L of both is the third tower.

where to stay

• Rifugio Carlo Valentini
• Mountain Ressort Passo Sella

1.12.14. Piz Ciavazes 15 routes in Crag

Summary:

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.509175, 11.784144

1.12.15. Pilastro " Pela de Micel " 1 route in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 46.507346, 11.791139

1.12.16. Pian Schiavaneis 71 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.502892, 11.792758

description

The training facility in the Dolomites. With steep and athletic routes.

1.12.17. Sass Pordoi 11 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 46.499789, 11.805723

1.12.18. Piz Miara 1 route in Cliff

Summary:

All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 46.523823, 11.796282

1.12.19. Eiszeit 10 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.545858, 11.817299

description

Oberhalb des Parkplatzes vom Piscadu Klettersteig

approach

Vom Parkplatz nach rechts oben haltend über das Geröll

descent notes

Siehe Zustieg

1.12.20. Boeseekofel 1 route in Crag

Summary:

All Ice climbing

Lat / Long: 46.534557, 11.845105

1.12.21. Palestra del Lago 9 routes in Area

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.525256, 11.855916

summary

Small crag at the Lago Boè with two multipitches and some single pitches. The lake gets extremely crowded with hikers and slackliners on summer weekends, and it can get quite noisy.

description

A good topo can be found on the website of the Rifugio Kostner: https://rifugiokostner.it/en/vallon-sport-climbing/palestra-del-lago

Noise and crowds on weekends can be a turnoff, sometimes, people even bring their drums, steelpans, and Alp horns.

approach

Take the cable car up to the Piz Boè Alpine Lounge, then follow the trail going up under the Vallon chairlift. You cannot miss the lake on the right side. The routes are on the obvious wall bordering the lake on its west coast.

where to stay

Corvara / Colfosco are close villages.

history

Crag bolted by Marcello Cominetti

1.12.22. Col de Stagn 2 routes in Area

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.518115, 11.851819

approach

Take the chairlift to Campolongo-Bec de Roces and follow the trail 636 until it splits into 636 and 637. From there, hike directly up to the base of the wall.

1.12.23. Palla del Guide 3 routes in Area

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.515741, 11.844136

description

A 200m wall close to the Kostner Refuge

approach

From the top of the Boi and Vallon cable cars turn left and take path 638 in the direction of the Kostner refuge. Note the valley and turn off for path 672- this will be your descent. You should be able to see Via Ercole and Via del Guide at this point and head towards them. For Via Gino Bellumat continue on 638 for another 300m and you should be able to scramble up 15 m to a ledge and the start of the route.

where to stay

Kostner refuge.Topos available on website. https://rifugiokostner.it/en/vallon-sport-climbing/pala-delle-guide

1.12.24. Bastionata dei Camosci 1 route in Area

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.525361, 11.847156

summary

Large rock face on the Piz da Lech massif

description

Impressive wall and very easily reachable. Many routes are visible in the wall, but only for one of them can info be found online. Careful not to miss it, the other routes are very sparsely bolted.

A good topo has been published on the website of the Rifugio Kostner: https://rifugiokostner.it/en/vallon-sport-climbing/bastionata-dei-camosci

approach

From Corvara, take the cable car up to Piz Boè Alpine Lounge, and then the "Vallon" chairlift. From the top of the chairlift, make a right and follow the signs for Piz da Lech. After cresting a small hill, you'll see the large wall and the path below it right away.

where to stay

Corvara or Colfosco

1.12.25. Piccola Torre 1 route in Area

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 46.521657, 11.784408

approach

Venendo dalla val Gardena parcheggiare dopo la cava di ghiaia, salire nel bosco e poi a sinistra per prati

1.12.26. Brunecker Turm 1 route in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

approach

Parking lot of tridentina ferrata / pisciadu hut along the street from Grödner Joch to Kolfuschg. Follow path to the hut, then scramble to the left to reach the tower.

1.12.27. Torre Colfosco 1 route in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 46.537095, 11.831997

summary

Torre Colfosco (2529 m) is a mountain in the Sella group in Italy.

1.12.28. Crep de Boè 2 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

summary

Crep de Boè (2465m) is a summit in the Sella, Dolomites, just above Corvara.

1.12.29. Torre Fiechtl 1 route in Area

Summary:

All Trad climbing

1.13. Val di Fassa 238 routes in Region

1 9 5 2 4 3 7 8 6

1 Col Rodella 2 Gruppo del Catinaccio 3 Val San Nicolò 4 Bambine 5 Alba 6 Ronchi 7 Torre di Mezzaluna 8 Punta Vallaccia 9 Sass Bece

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.439399, 11.709317

1.13.1. Col Rodella 45 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.495779, 11.748228

summary

compact limestone slabs

description

2300 m altitude

1.13.2. Gruppo del Catinaccio 146 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport climbing, Trad climbing and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 46.456615, 11.640381

description

The Rosengarten group (Italian: Catinaccio [katiˈnattʃo], Ladin: Ciadenac, Ciadenáze) is a massif in the Dolomites of northern Italy. It is located between the Tierser Tal and Eggental in South Tyrol and the Fassa Valley in Trentino.

One peculiarity of the Rosengarten is the pink shade which, due to the presence of dolomite mineral, it takes in the sunset, celebrated in the Bozner Bergsteigerlied as "glowing". Meaning "Rose garden" in German, the name refers to the legend of King Laurin and his Rose Garden, a traditional story explaining the outer appearance of the mountain range.

1.13.3. Val San Nicolò 1 route in Area

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.422548, 11.767625

1.13.4. Bambine 20 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.429020, 11.741729

description

A nice crag for beginners and itermediate.

approach

30min from Ta Ciajaa uphill. Just follow the tiny walkpath.

1.13.5. Alba 0 routes in Cliff

1.13.6. Ronchi 23 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.372837, 11.684316

description

Piccola falesia fuori dall'abitato di Moena con un settore di placca e un settore leggermente strapiombante.

approach

Da Moena guidare in direzione Passo San Pellegrino e parcheggiare stazione della funivia del Lusia. Attraversato il torrente proseguire in direzione Moena per una strada sterrata con divieto di transito dove dopo 5 minuti si trova un evidente sentiero ripido che in 10 minuti porta alla falesia. (Attenzione non seguire il cartello che porta al vecchio avamposto della mitragliatrice, ma tenersi a destra sul tratturo e poi seguire il ripido sentiero che sale), la parete è ben visibile da sotto (vedi foto falesia)

1.13.7. Torre di Mezzaluna 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 46.396432, 11.706775

1.13.8. Punta Vallaccia 0 routes in Cliff

1.13.9. Sass Bece 1 route in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 46.484904, 11.809326

1.14. Sottosassa 23 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.306887, 11.651077

summary

A fascinating crag along the orographic right of the Travignolo river. Climbing is characterised by cracks and overlaps which require crack skills and strength and finger resistance.

description

Climbing on quarried porphyry in a pleasant river forest setting.

approach

From Predazzo (Pardatsch) briefly follow the road of Passo Rolle (SS50) and turn right just after swimming pool near a large open space (often used as storage area for logs) to follow a forest road which heads towards Val Travgnolo, and a camping ground. Drive past the camppground on its right and park here, or cross the river on a causeway and continue 50 m further. Leave your car at the parking lot on the left near walkway signs. Continue on the shared path for about 1km until you cross the main river on a historic bridge. Turn right and walk upstream. Some scrappy climbs appear, but after about 250m you reach the main wall. Climb names and grades are indicated below routes.

where to stay

Camping ground 1 km from crag.

1.15. Sass taiá 26 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 46.128072, 11.769164

approach

Percorrendo la statale numero 50 del Grappa-Passo Rolle che da fonzaso o Artena porta in primiero, dopo una lunga galleria si arriva alla diga dello schener proseguire lungo la statale e superata l'ultima galleria denominata proprio sass taiá si parcheggia immediatamente a sinistra alla fine di quest'ultima. Dalla macchina si cammina 1 minuto.

1.16. Castel Pietra 58 routes in Area

1 2 3 4

1 Castel Pietra est nord-est 2 Castel Pietra sud-est 3 El Sass 4 Moebius

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.189643, 11.859775

summary

Falesia ai piedi di una rocca nei pressi della Val Canali. Frequentata fin dai primi anni 60. Comodo e breve avvicinamento.

description

Qualità della roccia molto buona, disponibili vie anche per principianti, moschettoni in catena non sempre disponibili. Ideale per i periodi caldi, valida anche per le mezze stagioni. Arrampicata prevalentemente di continuità.

approach

Avvicinamento breve di qualche minuto, dopo aver parcheggiato su una piccola piazzola (ci stanno circa 6 macchine) poco prima del bivio per la Val Canali lungo la statale 347 che porta al Passo Cereda, si prosegue a piedi attraversando il torrente, per poi seguire il sentiero mantenendo la sinistra al bivio.

1.16.1. Castel Pietra est nord-est 18 routes in Area

Summary:

Lat / Long: 46.190024, 11.859592

1.16.2. Castel Pietra sud-est 14 routes in Area

Summary:

Lat / Long: 46.189852, 11.859538

1.16.3. El Sass 21 routes in Area

Summary:

Lat / Long: 46.189714, 11.859497

description

Le vie sono ordinate da sinistra (parete est) verso destra (parete nord). Adatta anche ai principianti, da considerare che non sempre c'è il moschettone in catena per calarsi, in ogni caso troverete un anello per poter fare la manovra come minimo.

1.16.4. Moebius 5 routes in Area

Summary:

Lat / Long: 46.189282, 11.860312

1.17. Bilico 3 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.230381, 11.875955

summary

A crag high up in Val Canali in the Italian Dolomites, not far from Primiero.

1.18. Val Noana 0 routes in Crag

1.18.1. A 0 routes in Sector

1.18.2. B 0 routes in Sector

1.19. Innerfeld 38 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.673208, 12.298123

1.19.1. Sektor A 20 routes in Sector

Summary:

description

Up left from the Rifugio Dreischusterhütte.

1.19.2. Sektor B 18 routes in Sector

Summary:

description

Along the creek from Rifugio Dreischusterhütte.

1.20. Passo Rolle 15 routes in Area

1 2

1 Palestra Franco Marta 2 Tognazza

Summary:

Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 46.297948, 11.788591

1.20.1. Palestra Franco Marta 28 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.294602, 11.789317

summary

This crag is located just next to the road on Passo Rolle (Rollpass). An excellent crag for hot days in summer.

description

This crag also offers a great view of the Cimon della Pala, one of the most photographed peaks in the Dolomites.

approach

Drive into Val di Fiemme through the SS48 coming from Val d-Adige (Ora), along the SS612 coming from Val di Cembra, for the SP71 coming from Valfloriana or along the SS50 coming from Primiero - Passo Rolle. From Predazzo take and follow the SS50 of Passo Rolle until you reach the pass where there are several parking possibilities.

From the Bar Albergo Vezzana take the trail that continues behind the building. In 3 minutes you are under the cliff.

1.20.2. Tognazza 15 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 46.288807, 11.788765

description

https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/e/e1/Tognazza_E.JPG

1.21. Cima Uomo 1 route in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 46.392707, 11.799952

summary

A peak located high above the Passo San Pellegrino.

1.22. Clocia 14 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.325798, 11.598892

description

On the road from Predazzo to Moena in front of the Juno stadium

access issues

Nessuna

approach

10 metri dal parcheggio

1.23. Montebello Cavalese 7 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.291196, 11.469924

approach

5 minutes walking, you can see the crag from the car park

1.24. Montebello 0 routes in Crag

approach

5 minutes walking, you can see the crag from the car park

1.25. Val Passiria 216 routes in Region

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.817291, 11.154705

1.25.1. Zoll 11 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.822999, 11.197884

description

A small cliff in Paseiertal just above the road.

Routes are sorted right to left!

approach

Just about 1km after Gomion.

1.25.2. Stuls 75 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.829621, 11.189100

summary

A sunny crag for colder days with routes in most grades.

approach

Drive to Stuls and park near the fire station. A wide path leads to the crag.

1.25.3. Moos in Passeier 25 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.833594, 11.164929

description

A small, not very frequented cliff. Climbing on edges and cracks.

approach

Park near an abandoned restaurant in Moos.

1.25.4. Pfelders 69 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.803525, 11.112044

summary

A great cliff for families and beginners near a creek. Good for sunny and warm days.

approach

Drive into the Passeiertal. From Platt in direction of Pfelders you will reach the restaurant Bergkristall where you may park. Hike down to the creek and cross the bridge to reach the cliff.

where to stay

Camping Bergkristall (https://campingbergkristall.it/) is right across the street in walking distance, as is Kresspichlguet (https://www.kresspichl.com/). Otherwise there are plenty of places to stay in nearby Pfelders. A bus goes every 30 minutes and stops right across the crag. One can also hike from Pfelders in less then 30 minutes along the Meraner Höhenweg (Alta Via di Merano).

1.25.5. Sefnarwand 24 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.808392, 11.121388

description

Single and multi-pitch climbs with a great view.

history

Renovated in 2017 by Klttergruppe Passeier.

1.25.6. Bergkristall 12 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: 46.803040, 11.117789

summary

The bouldering area of Val Passiria.

description

Available guidebooks are not up-to-date, a new sector (called Giants) is being developed.

approach

Parking available near Café Bergkristall.

where to stay

Camping Bergkristall

1.26. Marco 5 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing