Gruppo del Sella Guide

Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. Gruppo del Sella 344 routes in Region

19 1 8 3 6 4 7 2 27 5 20 11 9 24 21 18 25 22 23 13 14 15 16 17

1 Tridentina 2 Paradise 3 Mur de Pisciadu 4 Brigata Tridentina 5 Cra da la Mirí 6 Parte Oscura della Luna 7 Murfrëittürmes 8 Frea 9 Cansla 11 Mëisules dala Biesces 13 Torri del Sella 14 Piz Ciavazes 15 Pilastro " Pela de Micel " 16 Pian Schiavaneis 17 Sass Pordoi 18 Piz Miara 19 Eiszeit 20 Boeseekofel 21 Palestra del Lago 22 Col de Stagn 23 Palla del Guide 24 Bastionata dei Camosci 25 Piccola Torre 27 Torre Colfosco

Summary:

J

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

Seasonality

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.519901, 11.827199

1.1. Tridentina 43 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.545533, 11.825878

summary

Pumpy climbing on good holds. Shade all day, rain protected but seeps after prolonged rain.

description

Mostly single pitch climbing through vertical & steep terrain on great features. Fully bolted. An 80m rope is recommended for many routes especially up in Eiszeit sector. Crag can seep for a while after rain but not all are affected.

approach

From the car park (46.54697, 11.82103) the walls are on your right looling down the valley. Take the track marked for via ferrata brigata, this will take you direct to the lower sector (Basso, 3 min). Scramble up scree path to Alto sector. For Eiszeit, take the path from the top (SW) of the carpark and follow the climbers track up the hill for 10m.

1.2. Paradise 8 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.538574, 11.830446

1.3. Mur de Pisciadu 3 routes in Area

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.542497, 11.822834

1.4. Brigata Tridentina 1 route in Area

Summary:

All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 46.540085, 11.826686

description

Via ferrata climbs a wall on the north flank of the Sella Massif, next to a waterfall up to the plateau/shelf that runs around partway up the Massif.

1.5. Cra da la Mirí 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.536240, 11.839764

1.6. Parte Oscura della Luna 7 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.540950, 11.837654

summary

Multipitch sport climbing on excellent rock.

description

A series of new bolted multi pitch sport routes on the face just to the right of the Val Mezdi. Routes between 6 and 9 pitches on excellent rock, especially in the upper pitches. Generally well-bolted.

Some info can also be found here: https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/oscura_della_luna-15542/

access issues

Easy stroll from nearby carpark. Passing tourists will take photos of you climbing.

approach

Around 30 min hike from car parking at the top station of Sodlisia cable car. Follow marked trail 651 (Val de Mezdi/4h to Rif. Boe) and cross the river at the bottom of the wall (large wooden bridge). Make a right after climbing up a bit after this bridge, then after about 150m, make a left into a meadow to gain a trail on the meadow's left side, leading to the base of the wall. "Indian Summer", "Legoland" and "Orwell" start a bit higher up on the wall; you have to scramble up to a sort of porch (around II). The other three routes ("Blade Runner", "Hall 9000" and "de Profundis") start on the base a bit further right along the wall.

Descent

"Legoland", "Orwell", "Blade Runner" and "Hall 9000" are equipped to rap, but it's possible to scramble off (preferred due to risk of rockfall). Make your way through a few bushes and trees, and walk up and into the Val de Mezdi for about 1 km, until you find the hiking trail guiding you back down.

where to stay

Nearby campground.

ethic

Sport.

1.7. Murfrëittürmes 1 route in Cliff

Summary:

All Ice climbing

Lat / Long: 46.539741, 11.806055

1.8. Frea 49 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.544219, 11.807512

approach

Park at the the Passo Gardena. Follow the road below the crag and then use one of the trails to reach the bottom of the crag. To reach the upper sectors use the via ferrata that starts in the sector 'Bittersüss und Fingerkraut'

1.8.1. Sonnentau 6 routes in Sector

Summary:

1.8.2. Mondviole 8 routes in Sector

Summary:

1.8.3. Bittersüss and Fingerkraut 20 routes in Sector

Summary:

1.8.4. Himmelsleiter 9 routes in Sector

Summary:

1.8.5. Rechter Pfeiler 6 routes in Sector

Summary:

1.9. Cansla 67 routes in Crag

1 2 3 4

1 Snoopy 2 Traumpfeiler 3 Wasserfall 4 Woodstock

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.531536, 11.786381

description

Almost all routes lead across gray, usually slightly inclined dolomite slabs. All routes are well secured with bolts or pitons, as well as the stands; always sufficient, a 50-meter rope, also for rappelling. 10 quickdraws are in most cases enough.

All sectors are facing west with sun from 12 clock until sunset; in midsummer very nice evening.

Best season is from May to October, depending on snow and weather conditions. The best certainly from July to September.

approach

From Wolkenstein you drive towards Passo Sella to the junction of the mountain pass that leads to Passo Gardena. You drive straight ahead (towards Passo Sella), about 300 meters to a large parking lot; in just a few minutes away from here all sectors of the climbing area.

About the parking lot you can clearly see the western wall of the Meisules dla Biesces. The left half consists of gray, compact limestone slabs, while the right side dominates yellow-brittle rock. Right below it is a striking slab pillars, the 'Traumpfeiler'. Right of the pillar flows a waterfall, which is usually dried out in the summer months. In five minutes you reach the base of the falls. If you follow this path of traces left (50 m), one arrives at a wire rope passes to the right of the entrances to the 'Traumpfeiler'. If you follow the little path marked out to the left so it is a mere 150 meters below the Snoopy slab, which is left bounded by a striking scale. Just to the right of the above-mentioned waterfall is a slab with six routes (6a). From here a steep path leads to the right to 'Woodstock' slab.

history

The history of the climbing area Cansla begins in 1983 At that time S. Stuflesser and G.Demetz from St. Ulrich started the job, to explore the western wall of the Meisules dla Biesces. Your first bolts they beat in a short limestone slab, the so-called "Snoopy-Platte". Here is the first sport climbing routes in the Sella group emerged: 'Snoopy', 'Unmögliche Phantasie' and new annual pitches with ever increasing difficulty.

A year later, the striking, 150-meter-high pillar slab was developed below the striking yellow wall. S. Stuflesser and C. Großrubatscher set up the route 'Traumpfeiler' from above; with this classic, which gave its name to the pillar, a new era began in Val Gardena: the time of extreme and safe sport climbing. You have to imagine that until 1983 there's not a single bolts was beaten in the modern sense. For climbing in the area Val Gardena, Dolomites and in the whole, the early eighties were thus a period of prosperity and the expansion of boundaries. Nevertheless, bolting in the Dolomites was strongly asked over and over again in question. And is today.

After the first ascent of 'Traumpfeiler', a VIII, on which still overhang specialists tough time, the climbing opportunities have multiplied in Cansla, be it on 'Traumpfeiler' itself as well as the 'Woodstock' slabs on the right. The industrious among the route setters, members of the Gardena Alpinist group "GAG", were Simon Demetz, Karl Vinatzer, Manfred Stuffer and Adam Holzknecht. But the route setters of "G.A.G." had not only sport climbing routes well prepared, but also extreme first ascents in alpine terrain, especially in the Sella group performed.

At present the visitors of Cansla find about 90 pitches, offer the most vertical, partly overhanging climbing. The most difficult tour of the crag is 'Furia'. The large roof at the left edge of the pillar was first climbed in 1990 by Manfred Stuffer. Repetitions are to 2010 not known.

1.9.1. Snoopy 10 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 46.532448, 11.785547

description

Excellent rock quality. The sector has fallen in recent years, something forgotten.

1.9.2. Traumpfeiler 20 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 46.531625, 11.786277

description

The routes were set up, with the exception of 'Paß au Popo' from above, by rappelling. Almost all pitches lengths are 25 meters long

Warning: The entrances are already several meters above the ground! Self-protection recommended!!

descent notes

The descent is by abseil along the routes.

1.9.3. Wasserfall 10 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 46.531343, 11.786308

1.9.4. Woodstock 27 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 46.531208, 11.786966

1.10. Pala Cengia 1 route in Area

Summary:

All Trad climbing

1.11. Mëisules dala Biesces 6 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 46.534082, 11.787813

1.11.1. Torre Orientale 1 route in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

1.11.2. Northwest face 2 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Trad climbing

1.11.3. West Face 1 route in Area

Summary:

All Trad climbing

1.11.4. Menhir Pillar 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

1.12. Parete delle Mésules 1 route in Area

Summary:

All Trad climbing

1.13. Torri del Sella 23 routes in Crag

5 4 3 2 1

1 Lokomotiv 2 First Sella Tower 3 Second Sella Tower 4 Third Sella Tower 5 Fourth Sella Tower

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 46.510619, 11.777133

summary

One of the most popular and accessible climbing areas in the Dolomites, with a great number of alpine, trad and sport routes a short walk from Sella Pass.

approach

Park at and walk from the Sella Pass following well defined trails to the foot of the various Towers. The first tower is the lowest and closest to the road. The second is behind it and to the L of both is the third tower.

where to stay

• Rifugio Carlo Valentini
• Mountain Ressort Passo Sella

1.13.1. Lokomotiv 0 routes in Cliff

1.13.2. First Sella Tower 14 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.509294, 11.774882

descent notes

Part 1

a) Abseil from summit: To the right of the saddle between 1st/2nd towers, follow the ridge ~30m to an abseil (40m).

OR

b) Descent by the "Via Normale" From the summit, follow the obvious path that leads to the saddle between the First and Second Sella Towers, then continue around the 2nd Tower, following the rock piles/cairns.

At a crossroads, take the path that turns right down the steep gully towards the valley. There are points where downhill climbing is required, never higher than II.

Part 2

Here the abseil and the Via Normale join up again. Shortly before the base of the wall, the trail separates to the left and right. To the right, there are two abseil anchors (top 35m, bottom 25m). To the left there is a downclimb (grade II).

Once at the base, follow the path to the right to return to the parking lot.

1.13.3. Second Sella Tower 5 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 46.510041, 11.776002

1.13.4. Third Sella Tower 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 46.511140, 11.777799

descent notes

Descent requires a high experience, 100 m of partially unprotected downclimbing on up to grade III terrain necessary. Better pack in some maillon rapides.

1.13.5. Fourth Sella Tower 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 46.513106, 11.778975

1.13.6. Fifth Sella Tower 0 routes in Cliff

1.14. Piz Ciavazes 15 routes in Crag

Summary:

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.509175, 11.784144

1.15. Pilastro " Pela de Micel " 1 route in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 46.507346, 11.791139

1.16. Pian Schiavaneis 71 routes in Crag

1 2 4 3 6

1 Placca 2 Centrale 3 Gabriel 4 Waterfall 6 Kinderblock

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.502892, 11.792758

description

The training facility in the Dolomites. With steep and athletic routes.

1.16.1. Placca 13 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.505936, 11.794801

1.16.2. Centrale 33 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.505798, 11.795142

1.16.3. Gabriel 11 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.505769, 11.795601

1.16.4. Waterfall 6 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.505777, 11.795920

description

This sector is next to the waterfall.

approach

Pass sector Gabriel to the left.

1.16.5. Niagra 0 routes in Sector

1.16.6. Kinderblock 8 routes in Sector

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.500766, 11.789636

description

Easy and short routes for kids and beginners in the forest below the majestic Piz Ciavazes.

approach

Park at the Rifugio Plan Schiavaneis and cross the street. Walk in the direction of the Passo Sella. After 50 meters there starts a gravel road to the left. Follow this road, pass the gate and continue until you find a big boulder on the right. Just some meters before a trail starts to the right. Follow it into the forest until you reach the cliff.

1.17. Sass Pordoi 11 routes in Crag

1 2 3

1 Parete west 2 Parete sud 3 Torre Fosca

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 46.499789, 11.805723

1.17.1. Parete west 5 routes in Sector

Summary:

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.500680, 11.802515

1.17.2. Parete sud 5 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 46.497132, 11.806539

1.17.3. Torre Fosca 1 route in Area

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 46.494305, 11.802400

1.18. Piz Miara 1 route in Cliff

Summary:

All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 46.523823, 11.796282

1.19. Eiszeit 10 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.545858, 11.817299

description

Oberhalb des Parkplatzes vom Piscadu Klettersteig

approach

Vom Parkplatz nach rechts oben haltend über das Geröll

descent notes

Siehe Zustieg

1.20. Boeseekofel 1 route in Crag

Summary:

All Ice climbing

Lat / Long: 46.534557, 11.845105

1.21. Palestra del Lago 9 routes in Area

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.525256, 11.855916

summary

Small crag at the Lago Boè with two multipitches and some single pitches. The lake gets extremely crowded with hikers and slackliners on summer weekends, and it can get quite noisy.

description

A good topo can be found on the website of the Rifugio Kostner: https://rifugiokostner.it/en/vallon-sport-climbing/palestra-del-lago

Noise and crowds on weekends can be a turnoff, sometimes, people even bring their drums, steelpans, and Alp horns.

approach

Take the cable car up to the Piz Boè Alpine Lounge, then follow the trail going up under the Vallon chairlift. You cannot miss the lake on the right side. The routes are on the obvious wall bordering the lake on its west coast.

where to stay

Corvara / Colfosco are close villages.

history

Crag bolted by Marcello Cominetti

1.22. Col de Stagn 2 routes in Area

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.518115, 11.851819

approach

Take the chairlift to Campolongo-Bec de Roces and follow the trail 636 until it splits into 636 and 637. From there, hike directly up to the base of the wall.

1.23. Palla del Guide 3 routes in Area

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.515741, 11.844136

description

A 200m wall close to the Kostner Refuge

approach

From the top of the Boi and Vallon cable cars turn left and take path 638 in the direction of the Kostner refuge. Note the valley and turn off for path 672- this will be your descent. You should be able to see Via Ercole and Via del Guide at this point and head towards them. For Via Gino Bellumat continue on 638 for another 300m and you should be able to scramble up 15 m to a ledge and the start of the route.

where to stay

Kostner refuge.Topos available on website. https://rifugiokostner.it/en/vallon-sport-climbing/pala-delle-guide

1.24. Bastionata dei Camosci 1 route in Area

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.525361, 11.847156

summary

Large rock face on the Piz da Lech massif

description

Impressive wall and very easily reachable. Many routes are visible in the wall, but only for one of them can info be found online. Careful not to miss it, the other routes are very sparsely bolted.

A good topo has been published on the website of the Rifugio Kostner: https://rifugiokostner.it/en/vallon-sport-climbing/bastionata-dei-camosci

approach

From Corvara, take the cable car up to Piz Boè Alpine Lounge, and then the "Vallon" chairlift. From the top of the chairlift, make a right and follow the signs for Piz da Lech. After cresting a small hill, you'll see the large wall and the path below it right away.

where to stay

Corvara or Colfosco

1.25. Piccola Torre 1 route in Area

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 46.521657, 11.784408

approach

Venendo dalla val Gardena parcheggiare dopo la cava di ghiaia, salire nel bosco e poi a sinistra per prati

1.26. Brunecker Turm 1 route in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

approach

Parking lot of tridentina ferrata / pisciadu hut along the street from Grödner Joch to Kolfuschg. Follow path to the hut, then scramble to the left to reach the tower.

1.27. Torre Colfosco 1 route in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 46.537095, 11.831997

summary

Torre Colfosco (2529 m) is a mountain in the Sella group in Italy.

1.28. Crep de Boè 2 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

summary

Crep de Boè (2465m) is a summit in the Sella, Dolomites, just above Corvara.

1.29. Torre Fiechtl 1 route in Area

Summary:

All Trad climbing