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Table of contents
- 1.
Cansla
67 in Crag
- 1.1. Snoopy 10 in Sector
- 1.2. Traumpfeiler 20 in Sector
- 1.3. Wasserfall 10 in Sector
- 1.4. Woodstock 27 in Sector
- 2. Index by grade
1. Cansla 67 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 46.531536, 11.786381
description
Almost all routes lead across gray, usually slightly inclined dolomite slabs. All routes are well secured with bolts or pitons, as well as the stands; always sufficient, a 50-meter rope, also for rappelling. 10 quickdraws are in most cases enough.
All sectors are facing west with sun from 12 clock until sunset; in midsummer very nice evening.
Best season is from May to October, depending on snow and weather conditions. The best certainly from July to September.
approach
From Wolkenstein you drive towards Passo Sella to the junction of the mountain pass that leads to Passo Gardena. You drive straight ahead (towards Passo Sella), about 300 meters to a large parking lot; in just a few minutes away from here all sectors of the climbing area.
About the parking lot you can clearly see the western wall of the Meisules dla Biesces. The left half consists of gray, compact limestone slabs, while the right side dominates yellow-brittle rock. Right below it is a striking slab pillars, the 'Traumpfeiler'. Right of the pillar flows a waterfall, which is usually dried out in the summer months. In five minutes you reach the base of the falls. If you follow this path of traces left (50 m), one arrives at a wire rope passes to the right of the entrances to the 'Traumpfeiler'. If you follow the little path marked out to the left so it is a mere 150 meters below the Snoopy slab, which is left bounded by a striking scale. Just to the right of the above-mentioned waterfall is a slab with six routes (6a). From here a steep path leads to the right to 'Woodstock' slab.
history
The history of the climbing area Cansla begins in 1983 At that time S. Stuflesser and G.Demetz from St. Ulrich started the job, to explore the western wall of the Meisules dla Biesces. Your first bolts they beat in a short limestone slab, the so-called "Snoopy-Platte". Here is the first sport climbing routes in the Sella group emerged: 'Snoopy', 'Unmögliche Phantasie' and new annual pitches with ever increasing difficulty.
A year later, the striking, 150-meter-high pillar slab was developed below the striking yellow wall. S. Stuflesser and C. Großrubatscher set up the route 'Traumpfeiler' from above; with this classic, which gave its name to the pillar, a new era began in Val Gardena: the time of extreme and safe sport climbing. You have to imagine that until 1983 there's not a single bolts was beaten in the modern sense. For climbing in the area Val Gardena, Dolomites and in the whole, the early eighties were thus a period of prosperity and the expansion of boundaries. Nevertheless, bolting in the Dolomites was strongly asked over and over again in question. And is today.
After the first ascent of 'Traumpfeiler', a VIII, on which still overhang specialists tough time, the climbing opportunities have multiplied in Cansla, be it on 'Traumpfeiler' itself as well as the 'Woodstock' slabs on the right. The industrious among the route setters, members of the Gardena Alpinist group "GAG", were Simon Demetz, Karl Vinatzer, Manfred Stuffer and Adam Holzknecht. But the route setters of "G.A.G." had not only sport climbing routes well prepared, but also extreme first ascents in alpine terrain, especially in the Sella group performed.
At present the visitors of Cansla find about 90 pitches, offer the most vertical, partly overhanging climbing. The most difficult tour of the crag is 'Furia'. The large roof at the left edge of the pillar was first climbed in 1990 by Manfred Stuffer. Repetitions are to 2010 not known.
1.1. Snoopy 10 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 46.532448, 11.785547
description
Excellent rock quality. The sector has fallen in recent years, something forgotten.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Kleiner Traum | 6a | ||||
| 2 | Game Over | 6c | ||||
| 3 | One Way | 6c+ | ||||
| 4 |
Unmögliche Phantasie
Set: S. Stuflesser. G.Demetz, 1983 | 6c | ||||
| 5 | Die Windige | 6b+ | ||||
| 6 | Papa Cool | 6c | ||||
| 7 | Vogelnest | 6c+ | ||||
| 8 |
Snoopy
Set: S. Stuflesser. G.Demetz, 1983 | 6b+ | ||||
| 9 | Ossi | |||||
| 10 | Gerry | 6b | ||||
1.2. Traumpfeiler 20 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 46.531625, 11.786277
description
The routes were set up, with the exception of 'Paß au Popo' from above, by rappelling. Almost all pitches lengths are 25 meters long
Warning: The entrances are already several meters above the ground! Self-protection recommended!!
descent notes
The descent is by abseil along the routes.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★★ Paß au Popo
Only route that has been set up from below. Requires perseverance and a little luck ... Set: S. Demetz & S. Oberbacher, 1988 | 6c+ | 45m, 2 | |||
| 2 |
★★★ Sech o nia
Beautiful line in yellow wall steeper than the "usual" dream pillar Traumpfeiler. Set: (A. Holzknecht | 7c | 44m, 2 | |||
| 3 |
Tu dai
Sophisticated line. | 8a | 22m | |||
| 4 |
Kante
Once the continuation of 'Paß au Popo'. Today with direct access from the large roof the most difficult line in the entire area (drilled by A. Holzknecht 1988). The first two pitches in one shot got with 'Furia' its own name and in 1990 redpointed by M. Stuffer. 'Furia' 8a + has until now (probably) no repetition ... Set: A. Holzknecht, 1988 | 8a+ | 95m, 4 | |||
| 5 |
L Giaron
Part yellow brittle rock, yet rewarding. Set: M. Stuffer & K. Vinatzer, 1989 | 7a | 25m | |||
| 6 |
Loß di foll'n
Endurance climb in the first pitch, maximum force in the second and tact in the third; Warning: From the second length is a retreat problematic (roof), either keeping left to swing to the belay six meters below (belay of 'Paß au Popo') or continue to climb and rappel over 'Amoklauf'. Set: A. Holzknecht, 1986 | 7b+ | 70m, 3 | |||
| 7 |
Amoklauf
The second length is the crux - warm up your fingers well! Set: A. Holzknecht, 1986 | 7b | 110m, 5 | |||
| 8 |
Odeon
Difficult single crux in the second length; otherwise nice route with homogeneous difficulties. Set: S. Demetz, 1988 | 7b | 75m, 3 | |||
| 9 |
★★★ Traumschiff
Perhaps the most beautiful climb on the wall, red bolts mark the path that leads to the fulfilment of the dream. Set: S. Demetz & K. Vinatzer, 1986 | 7a | 150m, 6 | |||
| 10 |
Traumvariante
It is parallel to the third pitch of 'Traumschiff'; the name says it all. Set: A. Holzknecht, 1987 | 7a | 25m, 6 | |||
| 11 |
Benny Hill
Straight forward line, wonderful climb. Set: S. Demetz & M. Stuffer, 1988 | 7b | 75m, 3 | |||
| 12 |
★★★ Traumpfeiler
The classic that gave the name of the pillar. Very few holds ... but nice! Set: S. Stuflesser & C. Großrubatscher, 1984 | 7a | 130m, 5 | |||
| 13 |
★★★ L Julon
Striking slab with slightly longer distances between bolts! Set: Manfred Stuffer, 1991 | 7c | 110m, 4 | |||
| 14 |
Tamburdl
In the first pitch dihedral, then slabs. Set: S. Oberbacher & I. Prinoth, 1989 | 7b | 100m, 4 | |||
| 15 |
Tamburin
Hefty slab, spicy variant of 'Tamburdl'! Set: H. Schmalzl | 7b+ | 28m | |||
| 16 |
Charly Brown
Technically demanding slab climbing. Set: S. Stuflesser, 1989 | 7b+ | 48m, 2 | |||
| 17 |
Spruel
The first two pitches are a must. Set: S. Demetz, 1989 | 7b | 62m, 3 | |||
| 18 |
Sufladressa
Short, but ongoing difficult pitches. Set: M. Stuffer, 1989 | 7b | 58m, 3 | |||
| 19 |
Steila da mont
The crux of the first pitch can be passed on the right. Set: M. Stuffer, 1989 | 7b | 48m, 2 | |||
| 20 |
Halloween
This pitch is after the top end of the steel cable! Be careful... Set: M. Stuffer, 1991 | 6c+ | 25m | |||
1.3. Wasserfall 10 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 46.531343, 11.786308
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ★ N.N. | 5b | 20m | |||
| 2 | ★ La bela | 6a | 15m | |||
| 3 | ★ La ria | 6a | 15m | |||
| 4 | ★★ La n'compra | 6a | 15m | |||
| 5 | ★ La saurida | 5c | 22m | |||
| 6 | Pisciadoi | 6a | 16m | |||
| 7 | ★★ vie Cun me | 6a | 12m | |||
| 8 | ★ Cun Te | 6a | 12m | |||
| 9 | ★★ No Zeder | 6a+ | 12m | |||
| 10 | ★★ tobai | 6b | 16m | |||
1.4. Woodstock 27 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 46.531208, 11.786966
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Nia mal | 7a | 10m | |||
| 2 | L Var | 7a+ | 10m | |||
| 3 | Schweizer Das | 6b | 10m | |||
| 4 | Te des nia mel | 6c+ | 12m | |||
| 5 | Tre tre | 6c+ | 10m | |||
| 6 | Woodstock | 6c | 12m | |||
| 7 | Noanca bon | 6b | 10m | |||
| 8 | Hmm pudding | 7b | 16m | |||
| 9 | Hmm créme caramel | 6b | 14m | |||
| 10 | Variante Proa me | 6c | 12m | |||
| 11 | Proa me | 6b+ | 12m | |||
| 12 | L Cianton | 6a+ | 26m | |||
| 13 | Scharlatan | 6a+ | 26m | |||
| 14 | L Giat y la Volp | 6a+ | 18m | |||
| 15 | La Biescia | 6c+ | 15m | |||
| 16 | Aluminium | 6b+ | 16m | |||
| 17 | L Rani | 6c | 22m | |||
| 18 | ★ Positiv negativ | 6c | 22m | |||
| 19 | Kranebit | 7a | 35m | |||
| 20 | ★ Plata Curta | 6b+ | 14m | |||
| 21 | Anbei cueceni | 5b | 16m | |||
| 22 | ★ Anbei burms | 6b | 22m | |||
| 23 | ★ Anbei burms (extension) | 6b+ | 8m | |||
| 24 | ★ Blo beus | 6c | 20m | |||
| 25 | ★★ Amez su | 6a+ | 22m | |||
| 26 | Blo bel | 6c+ | 22m | |||
| 27 | Sgravedoz | 7a | 22m | |||
