Col de Stagn Guide

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

MiniMized Stefano Masseroli

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1. Col de Stagn 2 in Area
2. Index by grade

1. Col de Stagn 2 routes in Area

Summary:

Seasonality

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.518115, 11.851819

approach

Take the chairlift to Campolongo-Bec de Roces and follow the trail 636 until it splits into 636 and 637. From there, hike directly up to the base of the wall.

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	Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		★★★ Eva dorme The start of the route is marked by a metal plate as well as a bolt. The plate is not highly visible. You probably need to hike up to the base of the wall to spot it. For the first pitch, follow a mix of bolts as well as fixed pitons to the belay. Follow the bolts to the left. Make sure to find the good belay that is far to the left. Skip the bolt & fixed piton that you encouter first. Crux pitch that is very well protected. Difficulty is soft for the grade given in the guide (around 6a+ / 6b by my estimate). The pitch crosses to the right and ends on a nice ledge, surrounded by Edelweiss. Nice, long pitch with a detour to the right at the start. If you use half ropes, consider clipping the detour seperately to reduce drag. Simply very enjoyable climbing. Small ledge at the end. The belay is located a few meters from the edge to the right. Only some of the belays are connected, and usually with not so trusty looking ropes. FA: R. Galvagni & M. Maceri, 2013	6b+	Sport 200m, 6, 12
2		★★★ Ludomania FA: Manuel Agreiter (rifugista del Kostner) e Armin Crafonara, 2013	6a	Sport 210m, 6

Route

Grade

Style

Selected ascents

★★★ Eva dorme

The start of the route is marked by a metal plate as well as a bolt. The plate is not highly visible. You probably need to hike up to the base of the wall to spot it. For the first pitch, follow a mix of bolts as well as fixed pitons to the belay.
Follow the bolts to the left. Make sure to find the good belay that is far to the left. Skip the bolt & fixed piton that you encouter first.
Crux pitch that is very well protected. Difficulty is soft for the grade given in the guide (around 6a+ / 6b by my estimate). The pitch crosses to the right and ends on a nice ledge, surrounded by Edelweiss.
Nice, long pitch with a detour to the right at the start. If you use half ropes, consider clipping the detour seperately to reduce drag.
Simply very enjoyable climbing.
Small ledge at the end. The belay is located a few meters from the edge to the right.

Only some of the belays are connected, and usually with not so trusty looking ropes.

FA: R. Galvagni & M. Maceri, 2013

6b+

Sport 200m, 6, 12

★★★ Ludomania

FA: Manuel Agreiter (rifugista del Kostner) e Armin Crafonara, 2013

Sport 210m, 6

2. Index by grade

Grade		Stars	Name	Style	Pop
6a		★★★	Ludomania	Sport 210m, 6
6b+		★★★	Eva dorme	Sport 200m, 6, 12