A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
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Table of contents
- 1. Parte Oscura della Luna 7 in Crag
- 2. Index by grade
1. Parte Oscura della Luna 7 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 46.540950, 11.837654
summary
Multipitch sport climbing on excellent rock.
description
A series of new bolted multi pitch sport routes on the face just to the right of the Val Mezdi. Routes between 6 and 9 pitches on excellent rock, especially in the upper pitches. Generally well-bolted.
Some info can also be found here: https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/oscura_della_luna-15542/
access issues
Easy stroll from nearby carpark. Passing tourists will take photos of you climbing.
approach
Around 30 min hike from car parking at the top station of Sodlisia cable car. Follow marked trail 651 (Val de Mezdi/4h to Rif. Boe) and cross the river at the bottom of the wall (large wooden bridge). Make a right after climbing up a bit after this bridge, then after about 150m, make a left into a meadow to gain a trail on the meadow's left side, leading to the base of the wall. "Indian Summer", "Legoland" and "Orwell" start a bit higher up on the wall; you have to scramble up to a sort of porch (around II). The other three routes ("Blade Runner", "Hall 9000" and "de Profundis") start on the base a bit further right along the wall.
Descent
"Legoland", "Orwell", "Blade Runner" and "Hall 9000" are equipped to rap, but it's possible to scramble off (preferred due to risk of rockfall). Make your way through a few bushes and trees, and walk up and into the Val de Mezdi for about 1 km, until you find the hiking trail guiding you back down.
where to stay
Nearby campground.
ethic
Sport.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Cavallo senza nome | 5c+ | 7 | |||
| 2 |
★★ Indian Summer
Set: R. Galvagni & Paola, 1999 | 6a+ | 200m, 7 | |||
| 3 |
Legoland
It is possible to rap (30m) down to the base of the wall from the start of this route. Set: R. Galvagni & M. Pfitscher, 1997 | 6b | 240m, 7 | |||
| 4 |
★★★ Orwell
Warning Fixed Gear: Old bolts and cordelettes/tat Rightmost route of the first group of three. Starts at the dusty ramp. Top pitch is sandbagged in guidebooks, there is a difficult bulge awaiting you. Set: D. Filippi & R. Galvagni, 2003 | 6a+ | 220m, 9 | |||
| 5 |
★★★ Blade Runner
Set: R. Galvagni, 1998 | 6b | 180m, 5 | |||
| 6 |
Hall 9000
Set: R. Galvagni, P. Galvagni & M. Pfitscher, 1997 | 6b+ | 190m, 5 | |||
| 7 |
★★ de Profundis
"Perfect Arete" according to the multilingual guidebook. 6 pitches between 4 and 6a+ - the first being the cruxiest. Definitely a good day out. Tourists will stop and marvel at you - it's right on the main walking trail. Set: Roly Gavagni, 2002 | 6a+ | 170m, 6, 50 | |||
2. Index by grade
| Grade | 
|
Stars | Name | Style | Pop |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 5c+ | Cavallo senza nome | 7 | |||
| 6a+ | ★★ | Indian Summer | 200m, 7 | ||
| ★★★ | Orwell | 220m, 9 | |||
| ★★ | de Profundis | 170m, 6, 50 | |||
| 6b | ★★★ | Blade Runner | 180m, 5 | ||
| Legoland | 240m, 7 | ||||
| 6b+ | Hall 9000 | 190m, 5 |