Ascents of Southeast Face of Nelion

Guiding Nina and Nick Martyn. Tricky ice conditions in Gate of Mist. Very long belay on summit of nelion before descent

For a party of 3, it took us 4h50 to ascend (with some variations on the route so did 19 pitches and 382m of climbing, and 2h50 to abseil to the base. It had been raining all week in the afternoons from noon, and the companies that went up the few days before us suffered from harsh rains. We pushed for the summit just at 11:40 before it started snowing. Some of the abseil anchors. Though, may soon require replacing to make descents safer.

Guided 2 clients as well as Ian Lekiluai who became the first Samburu to climb the two summits of Nelion and Batian successfully on this trip. We spent a night on Nelion before crossing to Batian and back the next day.

Guiding. Started just after 4am and summited Nelion by 8am. Tricky ice conditions at the gate of the mists meant over 2 hours spent after departing from Nelion. By 11:10am we made it to Batian.

Guiding a client. Up and down in one day. Did not cross gate of mist due to a later arrival (1pm) on the summit of Nelion

Guiding an expedition, one client, carried roughly 15kg in bivvy gear and extra rope on top of leading the whole thing. Only went as far as the summit of Nelion

Degraff variation, challenging in snowy conditions.

Guiding an expedition with a bivvy at the top. Did not cross over to Batian

Amazing. Felt rough most of the way but got to lead the final two pitches. Good weather all the way and slet in Howell Hut at the top. Good effort from Joel and Henrik, especially the Shipton's Crack pitch.

character building!

Alternating lead with Seb V. The other party of our group was in front with a guide.

with RB; i led official crux, he led horrible traverse etc.

Great climb.

From Mackinders Hut crossed Lewis Glacier? before daybreak. Long day climbing to arrive at Howells shelter approx 1800hrs and overnight with altitude sickness. Nelion only climbed. 18 pitch descent. Some blind abseils. Fantastic.