★★★ North Face Standard route {UIAA} 4+

Season: July to October. Time: 10 hours.

This route is the least difficult on the north side of the mountain. Start from Kami Hut, where a 40-minute walk below the foot of the North Ridge is made to the starting gully, which is marked by a cross in a circle chipped on rock. Climb straight up from the marker and move right at 6 m into the gully (IV inf.). Continue over easier rock until it’s possible to scram­ble for 90 m up the gully to a steep wall. An obvious crack brings one onto a large terrace beneath a third steep wall (III sup) Climb 6 m up an easy gully on the left, traverse back into the centre, then straight up (III sup.) and scramble into the Amphitheatre.

Scramble about 120 m across this until it steep­ens, in the direction of Firmin’s Tower, which is at the top left- hand corner. Climb 25 m to a wide sloping ledge (III), then tra­verse right along the ledge for 20 m (III), until it is possible to gain the ridge on the left-hand skyline. A 9 m scramble brings one to the foot of Firmin’s Tower. Climb the crack for 20 m to where it breaks into two branches. Chimney up the right-hand one for 15 m to the top of a massive loose block (overlooking the Amphitheatre).

Move left into the original chimney and continue up for 9 m. Scramble for about 18 m and up to the toD of the Tower (IV sup.)- Descend to the ridge and scramble along it for 60 m until it steepens. Continue along the ridge for another 30 m (IV inf.). Move up to an obvious ledge then traverse right to a small Amphitheatre (III). Further scrambling brings one to the junction of the West ridge where there is a superb bivouac site. Whilst it is possible to climb along the ridge it is easier and safer to traverse horizontally from the bivouac site for about 120 m to Shipton’s Notch. The rock in this area should be treated with care. This route is suitable for descent.

Variations: 1 - On the crux section of Firmin’s tower it's possible to move right from the loose block along an obvious ledge to the foot of a steep crack which is climbed direct (Grade V sup). 2 - The Firmin Tower has been bypassed to the right with a difficult and exposed mixed pitch above the Northey Glacier (V). the main ridge being rejoined just above the Tower (A. Schoon and H. Graafland, July 1958). 3 - A Japanese party made an ascent of the Kami Hut face of the North Ridge of Batian to join the North face Standard Route just below the tip of the gully before entering the Amphitheatre (1965). The whole of the North Ridge was climbed by J. Moss and J Linke in July 1974 (Grade V). 5 - From the starting point of the North Face Standard Route, the grey rock area immediately left of the gully was climbed for 15 pitches to the base of Firmin's Tower (M. Anglada and party, August 1971).

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