Climb the prominent wide gully on the SE Face. Take the right-hand branch leading to the main ridge at a prominent sharp V-notch. The most difficult parts are just before reaching the main ridge, and from here to the summit.
Variation: Where the gully branches, the left-hand route may be taken. This gully, less clearly defined, joins the other route on the summit ridge. (Grade III, J I Moore and H C Pereira, Aug. 1949). When free of snow this gully can be climbed down without abseiling (III). The tower buttress right of the South-East Gully may also have been climbed by a Cape Town University party, in January 1965.
18 Dec 1929 | First ascent: R.E.G. Russell & Eric Shipton |
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3 | Assigned grade |
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iii | Hugo |
5.6 | ★★★Ken Ford |
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