Routes in Kenya

At left end of Mr. Cod’s slab is a shallow chimney which thins and shallowens as it rises until finishing about 6 m up. Climb chimney and then up crack to grassy ledge. Escape upwards through boulders and trees, and then join finishing gully of Mr. Cod.

This is also not terrible, but the good bit is a bit short.

To the left of Coffin’s gully is a slab with a small overhang at 5 m and a bulge above it. Climb directly to overhang, then step left to surmount bulge. Straight up to ledge under roof. Traverse left past end of roof, and then follow gully rightwards to top.

This climb’s actually alright, if a bit short.

Start up the chimney on the right of Coffin. Ascend chimney and then rightward-trending gully to top.

This line is more obvious than Coffin, so I’d be surprised if it hasn’t been climbed before.

Start in gully left of slab at foot of grey tree root. Climb to platform, move up right-handed to poor stance and belay at 35'. Traverse left across face to good holds and ascend wall until under point of boulder on left. Pull up on jugs to finish.

Start at the base of groove behind bush between Coffin and point of slab. Ascend groove, move out right to grassy ledge, move to left edge of sand-coloured slab. Ascending traverse right across slab, move right-hand over point of corner to easier rock and top. An alternative finish (Severe) may be followed from the grassy ledge by ascending to vertical crack and moving right in an ascending traverse. Cross onto Tombstone and to the bulge directly below the fig tree. Finish above.

Start almost precisely halfway between Tombstone and Hammer and Sickle and go straight up to the right- angled corner at the left-hand end of the overhang. Climb to corner and finish on the upper slab.

Start at the very base of slab at small bush some feet right of boulder. Climb centre of 3m nose and 8m slab above to vertical wall. Traverse left and climb directly into groove above. Up groove to prominent horizontal crack. Move left onto wall and climb to fig tree belay.

This route is a 8m boulder problem at the top of a nondescript slab, which is located some 8m left of the start of Cemetery Corner. The lower slab leads easily to the first bolt, and the route continues straight up past a second bolt to the top. Near the top it is difficult staying clear of Tombstone. Worth doing but the climb would be far superior with one less bolt.

Start at base of crack at right-hand corner of slab where there is a prominent fault. Move left-handed under edge of overlapping slab. At left-hand point of overlap climb onto wall and move back right-handed to smooth wall and chimney. Back up over chockstone boulders to platform (root belay). Delicate move onto left-hand wall and traverse until wall can be climbed directly or a swing up can be made on small block. Move left- handed to finish.

This climb is basically an improved direct finish to Cemetery Corner. Ascend Cemetery Corner until the end of the chimney and the obvious roof. Instead of moving out left, continue up the steep polished wall just left of corner to overhang. Surmount this right-wards.

A superb direct finish to Corpse. Instead of heading right as for Corpse, hang on a big jug, place a nut, and blast upward with some steep, gymnastic moves through the shallow groove at half height. Pause to get some gear in before continuing on direct on very thin and balancey moves to get onto the final slab finish. Combined with the first half of Corpse this makes a sustained, varied and interesting route. Well worthwhile! (First top rope ascent by Hamish and Max)

Start right of Cemetery corner until corner/chimney. Layback up leftwards to groove, up this a bit then break out onto right wall by way of steeper groove. Move up to slab and finish on left.

Pumpy, then delicate. Start at 2m left from the far right end of the overhang (this avoids the start for The Quick and the Dead). Layback 10 feet up a short but nice finger crack and reach up to a jug just over the roof. Reach high and left for a second good hold, then hard moves to gain the black slab above. Very delicate moves up the slab for 20 feet to easier ground and finish on the slab above. Done on top rope. Anyone up for leading / placing a couple of bolts?

This climb which is of no value whatsoever, starts 3m left of Cemetery Wall at the bottom of the gully just right of Corpse. Climb over a small overlap then make difficult moves up using a finger-crack to reach a good ledge, which is shared with Cemetery Wall. Traverse delicately left and turn the corner to better holds. Straight up.

In middle of face is a pile of boulders with a large fig tree in groove behind and dead tree stump on platform. The climb starts from this platform. Routes leading to platform: (a) 6m Diff. Up fig tree root and move left to platform. (b) 7m Severe. Right-hand corner of pile of boulders into small sentry box. Hand-traverse left-handed and climb boulders to platform. From platform awkward step leads to wall and 3m of climbing left-handed leads into crack. Follow this line of weakness until quartz band is reached. Move left-handed and up to finish. Alternate finish: (very hard, no protection) move right on quartz and take slab direct.

5m to the right of the start to Cemetery Wall is a thin crack which begins to open at 6m. Start from the tree stump at blank wall. Move up on thin flakes to a old bolt. Layback and jam to the widening of the crack. Strenuous. Continue more easily up the crack. Step right onto face from two moves then back into the crack. Tree belay.

Start about 2m to left of fig tree roots on grey buttress. Climb up to go over left-hand end of pear-shaped overhanging block and finish up grassy groove in wall above. An alternate start may be made round corner to left, using tree growing horizontally out of wall.

Start between Turret Wall and Syrup of Figs. A thin crack leads to an easy traverse rightwards for 6m. Prominent cracks then take one up to easier rock above.

Start on ledge at right of fig tree.

1. 9m. Climb white streak 2m right from beginning of ledge. Moving left follow up to large recess and belay.

2. 9m. Climb out of recess on left wall and directly up to finish on sand coloured tower to right of small bush in horizontal crack.

Start on ledge at right of fig tree roots.

1. 10m. Move right along ledge to end and up crack to small scoop. Climb up on easy rock left to large recess and belay.

2. 13m. Move off right across face.

Start at left of detached block.

1. 10m. 3m above ground a hand traverse leads left across wall. From this climb directly into groove and then to overhang with thread belay.

2. 15m. Climb overhang direct and straight on to finish.

Start as for Fig Tree Wall.

1. 10m. Climb up to stand on ledge used for hand traverse. From right-hand corner of ledge across groove to right (peg runner) and climb up wall moving right on series of small flakes to good stance below overhang.

2. 15m. Continue over overhang and up, moving slightly left-handed to top.

Start in centre of face to the right of the hand traverse. Follow crack to meet Le Pelley’s Variation and climb the 4m wall. Move left along the large ledge to the vertical crack dividing the overhang above. Climb crack and continue vertically to top.

Start at left end of overhang.

1. 15m. Tier of steep rocks leads to traverse under overhang to left up to point of large semi-detached boulder. Ascend wall to fig tree and move right 4m to base of crack and belay.

2. 10m. Ascend crack and face to foot of chimney with small tree.

3. 5m. Climb up chimney on right in final block to belay at fig tree.

Start as for Le Pelley's Variation and climb the first 15m of this route to the foot of the crack. Now traverse 4m further right to where an obvious leftwards-rising diedre is reached. Climb the wall immediately on left of diedre, which is very hard at the start but gradually becomes easier until a position is reached below the prominent orange-coloured roof. Climb roof direct some 4m right of the chimney at the end of Le Pelley's Variation.

At the right-hand end of the large overhang there is a vertical crack on the wall above. One peg gains the crack which then goes free. Move left and up to top.

Start up Fig Tree Original. Traverse along line of quartz, moving right-handed along obvious traverse line. Continue across whole face ending at top of first pitch of Cakewalk. Rather harder for the second at the crux.

Start up Fig Tree Original to 2/3 up second pitch. Start traversing right-handed across face aiming to go underneath big overhang in middle of face. Series of delicate moves leads to corner below overhang which is crossed. Continue at this level to end of crag.

A peg route along the overhang, using one bolt. Start at right end and finish up Le Pelley’s.

Another climb may be reached by going well up Fig Tree Gully. On the right is a black wall. Start at point of rock 2m up on right-hand end of wall. Move left across face and finish straight up.

Start at the foot of a crack to the right of grey buttress-like flake. Continue straight up crack. Tree belay far back.

Start behind bushes at right-hand end of small overhang, where there is a small pigeon-hole 1.2m up. Climb to ledge, then move left-handed and ascend final wall. Belay 6m back to boulder.

Start 2m to right of pigeon-hole in Boulder Two on smooth slab. Direct ascent to ledge and then to an almost-detached flake 2m above on wall. Continue direct to top. Belay 6m back on boulder.

Start at point of slab below scoop 2m up. From here take easiest route moving slightly right-handed and keeping a few feet right of the broken corner. Move left to finish. Belay at flake 5m back.

Start 4m to the right of Boulder Original in middle of very smooth black slab. Climb direct to top, aiming for top of boulder against skyline. Belay on spike of boulder 6m back on right.

Start on the right-hand corner of crag from point of almost-detached flake. Keep generally to corner of crag, climb crack to top.

Start in a small gully where Bee Buttress becomes Jacob’s Ladder Face. Up gully 3m and step right onto slab for a few steps then across left onto small ledge below nose. Take nose direct and mantleshelf into a small broken groove on the bridge of the nose. Move left to finish.

Start from base of large-leafed tree on left. Climb up wall, move into slight recess at 9m, continue left-handed and then to tree on skyline.

Start in groove 5m left of Jacob’s Ladder route. Traverse out onto left-hand wall. Continue climb moving slightly right-handed but not meeting Jacob’s Ladder.

Start at foot of centre slab and ascend line of pigeon holes, moving right. Continue to summit by moving left-handed. An excellent first lead as it can be easily and adequately protected. An intermediate belay may be arranged below the final wall.

Start 12m right of Jacob’s Ladder at prominent band of quartz. Ascend groove, moving left-handed and cross over extreme right-hand point of overhang to finish by moving right. An alternate finish (Severe) is to traverse right into recess behind tree and climb back wall direct.

The climb goes up the face on the extreme right of Jacob’s ladder just past the fig trees. Climb directly up the centre of the face to a large sloping ledge. From the right end of the ledge climb to a hand traverse. Move left along this past the crux to the corner and up to the top.

Start from top of detached flake at right-hand end of Fig Tree overhang. Climb tier of rocks, step onto wall and up to tree. Continue to ascend left to second tree. Step onto left-hand wall and up to belay at fig tree.

Start on sandy coloured tower to left of standard route. 7m - Up tower in middle. 12m - Up red wall on right of gully. 9m - Slightly left to climb ‘cheese rings’ to left hand end of overhang and take this direct. An alternative start may be made up the black groove to the left of the sandy-coloured tower. An alternative finish is to climb through the nick in the overhang to the right.

Start at right-hand corner. Up groove 6m. Across platform to left and out onto face. Climb this - 12m. Climb to notch to finish - 10m.

Follow a line about 3m to the left of the Standard Route. Ascend wall to point of overhang. Climb overhang direct to tree belay.

Start at foot of slab below hole with thin crack above. From hole move slightly right to ledge at foot of steep wall. Traverse left to easier rock and then back right-handed to large platform with thread runner under overhang. Step out right round corner boulder onto face passing just to left of fig tree to finish.

At very foot of slab some 1m to right of hole ascend smooth slab to ledge and take black wall behind directly to platform. Thread runner. Take overhang direct, above runner, to finish at small fig tree.

Start on right behind fig tree at base of groove. Climb groove to below small overhang. Move slightly right and onto the face. Slightly left and pull up to small ledge. From here easier rock leads just to right of fig tree to finish.

Start 3m to left of chimney on north face of crag in small overhanging corner with pile of boulders. Step down 1m to left and traverse left around corner for about 3m. Climb wall direct to top.

Start as for Right Angle. Climb crack to small ledge. Ascend face and move out left-handed to belay on summit boulder.

The chimney on the north face of the crag.

Sheer corner at right-hand end of first overhang. Start 3m to left of corner. A tricky move leads into grassy groove on left. Climb to fig tree move along ledge about 4.5m and take wall direct. Tree belay.

20 yards to right of sheer corner mentioned in Traverse and Wall. There is a very steep crack leading to a grassy rake.

This climb is at the left end of the crag and starts 4m left of Journey Into Space. It is found by locating the prominent grey-coloured flake/jug some 6m up the wall. Easily up 3m to plant-covered ledge. Move left along this until directly below the previously mentioned flake/jug. (It is worth belaying on this plant ledge to protect leader on the first hard moves). Up with difficulty and pull up overhang to reach the prominent jug. Up this leftwards to horizontal crack. Climb up to a good hold and step rightwards across steep wall (crux). Delicate moves rightwards lead to a fairly dynamic move up and across to obvious hole on wall on right. Strenuous move straight up to easier ground and top. The climb is much harder than it appears from the ground. From the first moves off ledge it is unrelenting until the finishing hard move 15m up. Keep a #7 wire ready for the crux.

Where are you now Jet Morgan? (Journey Into Space is a BBC Radio science fiction programme written by BBC producer ...... by Tacconi. The 1957 annual included a short story called Jet Morgan and the Space Castaway, written by Chilton and illustrated by Cornwell). This is a gem of a climb, with great variety of moves and superb positions. At the left end of cliff there is an overhang with a diagonal break through it. The route is directly in front of the driver at the point where the road up to Lukenia meets the road which goes along the base of the cliffs. Start below overhang where there is a flake on the ground. Climb 6m to where a rising crack goes up leftwards through the overhang. Hand-traverse up crack, and pull up through lip of overhang onto steep wall. Delicate traverse rightwards (crux), along ledges on lip of overhang, until easier ground is reached 2m right of peg. Climb wall to top bearing slightly leftwards. Bolt pro after the hand traverse.

The toughest black hole in Kenya...." If we had a four star rating this would warrant the extra star. A beautiful exercise in precision. Start 6m right of Journey Into Space, where an awkward pull up leads to the first bolt. Delicate moves right past a second bolt leads to a difficult step down into the Black Hole. Swing out on wall on right and mantle shelf to ledge and scoop. Pull up bulging wall above to break in overhang. Strenuous moves up overhang (crux), past bolt to difficult exit rightwards. Step right to crack and up to ledge. Easily to top.

A totally manky exercise, which is satisfying for the masochist but useless for the quality-seeker. Start about 15m right of Calcutta in an area obvious for its dripping greenery, beneath a bush which grows 6m up the face. Climb to stump then right via horizontal crack to good jug which enables corner to be gained. Up this then step right to ledge. Traverse left 3m and climb directly to top.

Start up Falling-Off Tree (wide spreading fig tree growing on ledge). 4.5m to ledge then ascend tree 3m. Severe move leads to face which is easily climbed direct to finish.

Up to ledge via Falling-Off Tree. Move right to obvious groove. Move out of groove on right, climb a few feet, then back into groove. Ascend to steep wall, move right to avoid it and traverse back to left-hand crack of groove. Ascend direct to ledge. Climb to right- hand point of overhang, then climb nose of rock to belay at foot of thorn tree.

Halfway between Cannon and Falling-Off Tree there is a very large scoop about 12m up. Start just right of this at a slight corner in the overhanging base. The tree and a peg enable the wall to be gained. Move left to good holds and straight up to finish.

Start in deep gully with fig tree growing some way up. 1.5m up gully then traverse left and continue climb to recess. Take wall behind to belay at tree.

30m to the right of the gully of Cannon is a narrow crack with a small fig tree at its base. 1.5m to the left a small nose of rock leads to a flake with a hole in it. Climb to nettle tree in crack at 7m. Move slightly right-handed up face to finish on ledge with tree some way back for belay.

Start to the right of Gripes. Climb diagonal crack, then reach right when possible and climb wall on jugs to top. Try to avoid touching the small Ficus in the crack.

Towards the right end of Lower Cliffs, and about 15m left of The Hood, there is a bulging wall with a bolt at 3m. Climb overhang on right of bolt with difficulty (crux). Move up rightwards to second bolt and climb above with difficulty, to reach easier ground.

Start 9m left of Plinth. A skyhook enables a good channel to be placed in a horizontal slot at 3m. On to wall above on adequate holds, move left and into large scoop. Exit right and to tree belay.

Behind the large fig tree is an obvious sentry box above the overhang. Gain this by means of a bolt and peg (both in place). Two peg moves out of the sentry box lead to easy right-handed climbing to the top.

Halfway up Easy Gully on extreme left-hand end of face at the prominent flake. Layback up the flake, traverse 3m to the right and layback up second flake. Take wall direct.

Start some 6m up Easy Gully where a break-out can easily be made onto the nose on the right. Out to nose and follow line of nose to recess between large flakes at foot of wall (18m). Climb right-hand detached flake, step onto wall which is climbed direct, then move left over final boulder (15m). An alternate start (Severe) may be made. At foot of Gully on right is a sheer corner. Delicate move onto shelf on face leads right-handed to sharp corner which is ascended on edge, leading to easier rock and joining route for first pitch of normal route.

Start as for Ovid. (1) 18m. As for Ovid. (2) 20m. Descend 3m right-handed onto face and traverse to recess for belay. (3) 30m. Rising traverse on good holds leads across difficult corner to very small grassy ledge and belay. (4) 22m. Descend 4.5m into corner below overhang. Traverse below overhang and then rising traverse to finish at foot of clump of bushes.

Probably worth doing if for no other reason than the rare pleasure of climbing a crack at Lukenya. At the left end of Upper Cliffs is a dark bay. The Lizard takes the line up the corner, and immediately left of the bay is a steep wall with an overhang at 4.5m. Left of this is a thin crack. Ascend crack on finger-locks for 10m, then easily up arete to abseil cable.

The ultimate package! About 3m right of Frogman there is a break through the overhang. Layback overhang and cruxy move onto wall. Up to bolt on right. Step left then up to horizontal crack. Step left and continue strenuously leftwards.

2020 edit: This was originally given the grade of E3 5c, but at some point many bolts were added, essentially making this a sport climb with a few metres of easy traditional climbing at the top. The grade has been changed to a sport grade to reflect this. Do still take a few cams and nuts to protect the top after the last bolt.

Start 2.5m right of The Hair Of The Frog where there is an obvious jam crack up through the overhang. Climb crack to tree stump of The Lizard. Move directly above past horizontal crack and crux move up overhang (bolt). Exit left onto wall 1.5m above bolt, step up, then traverse right 2m and easier ground above to abseil cable.

What a joy this old classic is for the way it sorts out Lukenia climbers who can't get up cracks. There used to be a tree 9m up, which has now disappeared, adding to the quality of the climbs. Begin by thin crack in main bay where three or four technical moves leads to the overhang. Traverse left 1m and up flake to tricky move left to ledge (where the tree used to be). Move up a few feet and crux move into crack on right which is climbed to easier laybacking. Move left to gully and abseil cable.

Start on face of cliff 2m to left of fig tree root.

1. 22m. Climb to line of traverse at 3m, traverse left 10m. Ascend to steep sand-coloured wall and move right- handed into scoop. Out on left and right-handed to recess with bolt belay.

2. 24m. Ascending traverse right-handed passing below grey slabs to notch on skyline; climb left-hand corner to finish. Alternate finish by climbing from recess right-handed aiming for wide grey streak above. Finish on steep thin wall.

Start at tree of Original Route. Climb left of tree to its topmost branches. Step right a few feet and onto small flakes. Follow to a quartz band well above under the overhang. Move left four steps and up. Straight up easier slab to final steep wall. A very direct line.

Start on big block some 7.5m right of The Lizard. The route is just right of the arete. Climb to bulge at 4.5m (bolt), then hard moves up right to jug. Pull up to scoop. Up slightly leftwards, then up to ledge and belay. You are now some 4.5 right of the point where difficulties end on The Lizard. Traverse left to abseil cable.

Start some 7.5m right of The Joy Of Frogs just left of prominent tree. Strenuous pull up over bulge (it is a crime to touch tree), then up slightly left to steep wall. Mantle shelf up this then up to belay ledge at 25m. Either traverse left to abseil cable or make long rising traverse up rightwards to top of cliff.

Start about 4.5m right of Pilot Of The Storm. Easily up to flake at 4.5m then surmount overhanging wall above on good jugs. Up slightly rightwards on easier rock to belay. Finish as for Pilot Of The Storm.

Start just right of the Cornflakes tree stump where a diagonal edge leads up rightwards. Climb wall on right of edge to base of steep wall. Power up this 1m left of bolt to horizontal break, below overhang. Move up overhang until a series of good jugs leads out horizontally rightwards 3m, and pull through overhang when possible. Climb wall above 3m to bolt belay. Up easy wall above to top.

All that is great about Lukenia climbing. Start about 6m right of Gone With The Wind where there is a bolt some 4m up cliff. The title says it all. A gently overhanging wall which does not let up for 20m. Never desperate but tricky low down near the bolt. Four lunges follow to an easier but thrilling overhang and bolt belay on the wall above same as for Gone With the Wind. Either lower off here or climb unexciting wall above to top. It has become a classic and deservedly so.

For stout-hearted bachelors only! Start 6m right of Ride Like The Wind where an obvious root rises from the ground, just left of where the main overhang begins. Move up left to overhang. Bolt up on right. Climb overhang in pain just left of bolt and proceed carefully to horizontal break below main overhang. Move up this just left of bolt, then move right along lip of overhang 2.5m until good jugs lead up to bolt belay above. A rewarding excursion.

The second should have a back rope for the first 9m. At the right-hand end of Upper Cliffs is a prominent chimney. This superb technical route starts just left of this feature, below a slab, Gain slab easily and traverse left to corner (bolt). Swing around left edge and ascend face above (crux). On up steep rock (bolt), to a final belay bolt. Up easily to top or abseil off bolt.

Chimney behind thick bush at right-hand end of Upper Cliffs.

Start at base of chimney on right wall. 10m - Climb 1.5m and traverse right-handed to point of corner. Ascend direct to belay. 25m - Bands of rock and grassy ledges to finish. There now follows a dark wall with a variety of un- recorded climbs of about V.D. to S. standard before reaching Wide Chimney Boulder.

Start at right-hand point of dark wall with scoops above, where there is a large semi-detached flake. Climb flake, move out slightly right and directly up to finish to right of boulders.

Start 6m to the right of Flake Route at left-hand joint of rough pile of boulders, a black wall. Thin start leads to flake at 2.5m, take wall direct.

Walk up ledge between wall and pile of boulders to top of boulders. Tricky start leads to easy rock; straight up to finish. Tree belay.

Start at the right-hand corner of boulders on the ground. Climb to platform and continue on same finish as Pinion - take wall direct, moving slightly left-handed.

Continue along ledge from Thin Start, crossing small dip and up to top of another pile of boulders. Take wall direct, moving slightly left-handed.

Start between two large piles of boulders at short wall with projecting boulder in middle. Climb to left of boulder for 3m to platform. From platform climb to wall and move away right-handed to finish.

Start in centre of right-hand pile of boulders. Ascend sandy wall, on which all holds face the wrong way, to platform - 8m. On to wall behind and up slightly right-handed - 30m

Start by big fig tree between Agag's Slab and Sand Wall . Up to niche and slightly right, then traverse left across steep wall, using some doubtful flakes. Up to top.

Start at fig tree some 3m from face. Climb directly to middle of steep sand-coloured wall. Surmount wall to detached boulder. Up and left to summit boulder to finish.

Start directly below small fig tree under overhang.

1. 18m. Climb towards fig tree. Move left across slab to take overhang via spike of rock 2.5m left of tree. Climb wall above moving slightly left-handed to convenient stance beneath grey part of wall.

2. 10m. Climb behind belay and move out left-handed passing small bush and to ledge, then right-handed to finish. The overhang may be taken direct in which case it is Severe.

Start as for Orchid Ledge, directly below small fig tree under overhang.

1. 17m. Climb towards fig tree. Move left across slab to take overhang via spike of rock 2.5m left of tree. Move back across wall right-handed and directly to foot of steep sand-coloured wall. Belay.

2. 6m. Climb wall to wide cave below overhang.

3. 6m. Move out right-handed to climb point of overhang, then back left-handed to final belay on boulder.

Start as for Orchid Ledge, directly below small fig tree under overhang.

1. 15m. Ascending traverse left-handed to black water groove. Take wall on good holds. Ascending traverse right-handed to fig tree in groove for belay.

2. 9m. Move right across face to sentry box with belay.

3. 14m. Out of sentry box right-handed almost to point of fault where rock steepens. Swing back left- handed following line of fault and up to finish.

Start below right-hand end of overhang from pile of boulders behind tree.

1. 14m. Climb to point of overhang then slightly left- handed and directly up wall to belay in sentry box.

2. 14m. Move out on right and then move left-handed to wall above, which is taken direct, on to slabs to finish.

Start below left-hand end of scimitar-shaped overhang under small recessed ledge. (1) 60'. Straight up to flake at left end of overhang—take this on the left and climb onto detached block. (2) 30'. Traverse a few feet left from top of block to left end of steep lichenous wall. Climb this to finish.

Start below right-hand end of scimitar-shaped overhang.

1. 19m. Climb up to the overhang about 2m left of the point. Surmount the overhang to pleasant easy climbing to the detached block stance of Agrippa.

2. 9m. As for Agrippa. Traverse a few feet left from top of block to left end of steep lichenous wall. Climb this to finish.