Routes in Kenya

Sit-start on the lowest good usable holds, and go up on more decent holds above.

Face left for salty, and right for sweet. Stand-start for both with hands on the lower boulder.

Lovely tall climb. Stand-start with hands matched in lowest obvious hold. Go straight up, using the right side of the arete if needed but staying left of the crack and boulder on the right.

Sit-start with hands on the low block and adjacent small chickenhead. From here either jump to the jug above or deadpoint to diagonal right crimp, then mantle and finish.

Stand-start with both hands on the lip of the boulder on the far right. Traverse left along the lip on decent holds and heel hooks and top out at the highest point of the boulder, where there is a prominent chicken head. Landing gets worse as you go, so pad and spot carefully.

Stand-start with both hands just either side of the v-shaped block in the middle of the right side of the boulder. Couple of tricky moves to get up to the lip and then mantle. Short but sweet.

Very aesthetic line. Sit-start matched low on the left-hand arete. Work your way up the arete until you reach the big white jugs at the top and top out. Tricky start and need to stay calm and efficient for the top.

Stand-start on a good white hold as far right as the bush allows. Heel hook and work your way across to the big jugs in the middle.

Sit-start in the big crack on the left of the boulder. Follow the arete round to the right, topping out to the left of Chainsaw. Ledge underneath is off - best rock on the boulder and high-quality moves.

Sit-start in the same low jugs as for Axe. Go left and up on juggy holds to top out at the hight point of the boulder. Take care with some holds, as they sound slightly hollow.

Sit-start on obvious low crack. Straight up on good crimps.

Sit-start matched on corner of low blocky flake. Straight up via crimps and nice tensiony moves.

Sit-start to the right of Teeth, with hand matched in low crack. Hard first move up to jug on the arete, then jugs up this to top.

Stand-start with right hand on the obvious block in the centre of the boulder (where your left hand is for Right hand squeeze), and left as low as possible on the arete to the left. Go up and left to a good sidepull jug and top out above. Harder if under 1.70 m.

Stand-start with right hand where your left hand was for left hand squeeze and right hand on crimp to the right. Straight up via holds on the lip to top-out above.

#SD

Don't look down. Start on the small flake head right to slopers. #crimpy

Stand-start with hand matched on a small triangular flake at chest level. Straight up via pretty good holds to an easy topout.

Stand-start on a sloping right hand and left on a sharp rail, both around head height. Either cross through or bump to the big flake up and left. Take care with this hollow flake and the one above, topping out straight up.

Up the middle of the boulder, just right of Meowth. Stand-start on two slopey crimps around head height. Up to a decent right hand crimp then to the lip. Take care using the big flakes to the right for the top-out.

Great little problem. Stand-start on the left of the arete. Work your way up to the big crack then up and left back around the arete to the finishing jugs.

Stand-start to the left of the arete on the left of the boulder. Straight up.

Stand-start to the right of the arete, with left hand low on the arete and right on a sidepull. Pogo up the arete with the left hand, then top out from there. Fun first move.

Stand-start just right of Togepi, with left hand in the right hand start hold for Togepi and right in another sidepull. Get feet up then stand up to the lip.

Sit-start using same crimps as for Hatch crimp, but go left and up instead of right and up. Boulder below is off.

Sit-start on the right of boulder, with hands on crimps in the horizontal rail. Go up and right to another crimp then better holds above to top out. Boulder below is off.

Lovely problem with some intricate, delicate moves up the face of the slab. Stand-start on the right of the face with hand on opposing sidepulls at about shoulder height, and feet on a low obvious thin ledge. Work your way left and up to a balancy finish. Bit easier for the tall.

Sit-start just left of the small boulder in the middle of the overhang, on two decent crimps. Pup up to the lip, then traverse right until you can mantle.

Stand-start on the right of the boulder, just left of where it cracks, on good holds. Up on jugs.

Suprisingly difficult. Sit-start on left hand-side of the face, on decent holds. Aim for the big pinch above you - getting there is trickier than it looks!

Stand-start on a good left hand at the lip of the overhang and a higher, smaller right hand. Get stood on a high foot and then snap to a jug. Easy finish. Short but cool moves - potential there for much harder lower starts.

Up the middle of the face towards the upper slope. Sit-start between two smaller rocks under the boulder, on decent crimps. Keep going up between decent edges to the top straight up. Aimu are the spirits of ancestors of the Kamba people.

Sit-start, then keep tension to move up the face, avoiding the arete, towards the right. Ikoko is another Kamba word for leopard.

Start on a good rail under the overhang on the left. Go up under the overhang and traverse right to exit.

Tough start. #SD #juggy

Sit-start below and left of the big rail. Make you way straight up on good crimps, delicately on the flake.

Sit-start on same holds as Ninja, move right to big rail, using the flake above gently to exit right.

Highball. Go up as for Donatello, but instead of exiting right go straight up over the overhang. Maybe hard to reach the crucial crimp on the overhang easily if you're not tall!

Highball. Start as for Leonardo, but then move right to exit through the right side of the overhang, without using the arete for hands or feet.

Stand-start on small crimps, work your way left then up on small but positive holds. Cool movement, and not as bad for your fingers as the name suggests!

Start low and compress your way up to the top. Watch out for the landing, especially now the ground has fallen away further.

Up the high boulder just to the left of Hug the Boulder. Landing is not great as it has fallen away.

#SD #crimpy

#SD #crimpy

Problem on the left of the boulder. Sit-start on the lowest crimp and work your way up using a little flake and footwork.

Up the middle of the boulder to a good undercling. Get your feet up from here and reach for a slightly heady topout.

To the right of Spring, not using the hollow, creaking flake to your right. Up and over the boulder at its highest point on delicate hands and feet.

Just to the left and around the corner from 'Feet Up', but before 'the legitimacy of knees'. Sit start on two good crimp jugs, moving upwards on the left side of the crack until very good jug on the lip.

On the back side of the boulder. Starts on big jugs, moves left on good hold and heel-hooks until a big move up and over the bulge. FA proved that knees can legitimately be used in climbing, despite jealous naysayers.

Problem on the left of the boulder. Sit-start with the lowest good crimp you can reach and left hand in the slanting crack. Stand up and finish with an easy topout.

Same start position as Tiny scissors, difficult traverse requiring finger strength and tension to finish up Little Knife, using the slightly hollow but good flake as an undercling. A couple of excruciatingly sharp holds but fun movements!

To the right of the hollow flake, stand-start with hand on decent holds. Get your feet high and reach up to a good hold. Easy topout.

With your left hand on the same right-hand start hold as Little Knife, and right hand on a good crimp further right. Again get your feet high and pull and palm to get etsablished on both feet and finish with an easy topout.

Stand-start on the arete on the right, with right hand on a big blocky hold and right foot heek hooking next to it. Big move up, get on your feet and easier topout.

The logical conclusion to a lot of messing around on this boulder! As for Big Knife, but keep going with tricky beta along the rest of the boulder, finishing up Corkscrew. Long, fun and knackering!

Stand-start up to a big blocky hold. Up past this on crimps, keep your head for the high, slabby finish.

Up the middle of the boulder on small, sharp crimps. Finish straight up.

On the right of the boulder. Stand-start on decent crimps, move hands and feet up through a slightly sequency section to reach better holds above for the heady topout.

Sit-start. Hard first move, rest is simple.

Problem furthest left, using the big undercling. Stand-start, get your feet up and easier at the top.

To the right of Kiboko on decent crimps. Stand-start and get your feet up!

To the right of Anakuja! Again, stand-start with hands on decent crimps, get your feet up and finish.

Last problem to the right, on poorer holds. Hard first move to get feet up, then easier.

Goes up slightly to the left of the middle of the boulder on decent if small holds. Use your feet and stay calm, the topout is good.

Goes up just left of the arete on the right of the boulder (a hard line is awaiting an FA just right of this arete). Slightly harder moves to start, with a delicate but solid topout at long as you keep calm.

Lower and more powerful start to High as a Kite. Start matched on the same rail as for Jetpack and move up and left.

Crouch-start low on good crimps. Work your way up and to the right through hardish moves to a good hold just below the overhang, then commit to big moves to decent holds for the airy topout. Beauty of a boulder problem.

Long and sustained! Start way to the right under the overhang, just left of the entrance to the cave, matched on the slanting hold from a sit-start. Work your way left on decent holds and bad feet to a hard match (crux), then round then corner and up the blocky finish.

The blocky finish to rock slide, straight up from a stand-start. Cheeky handjam at the top for those into that kind of thing.

A great, complex problem up the centre of the boulder. Start matched on the good blocky rail low down and work your way up and slightly right, establishing on an undercling and sidepull before a big move to the top. A tricky topout still follows, but the holds are there.

On the left side of the boulder. Grade is not really a good barometer on this one. Start on the good rail, get your feet set and launch for the top and mantle.

Sit start with both hands matched on a low rail then pull your way rightwards and then up on a series of small crimps and sidepulls. Old school!

Stand-start with feet low under the overhang and hands on lowest crimps you can hold. Get feet higher, tense everything and pull over the overhang and up to finish.

Beauty of a problem up this proud boulder. Start low and left of the overhanging prow. Go right to some decent slopers, back left to a good crimp and keep your calm for the top-out.

On the other side of the boulder from May the V4 be with you. Sit-start and up the obvious holds on the face.

Start matched low in The Shark's mouth at the end of the toothy rail. A fun traverse along the razor sharp teeth end in big moves to the shark's nose.

The most visually iconic line on the plains. Start is shared with 'Gills' (matching the far left of the crack rail). Traverse the rail before performing a series of athletic moves leading right to a shared top out with 'Shark Bite.'

Start matched on rail at end of Shark's mouth. Proceed straight up the gills.

To the right of Shark Bite. Sit-start matched on the low jugs and move up to a good hold above. To top out move slightly left and get feet high to flop over.

A semi-powerful problem up the orange section on the right hand side of the boulder. Start matched on lowest, small crack rail

Start on the obvious jug rail at the center bottom of the boulder and go straight up, and most importantly... have fun!

Start on the left of the same juggy rail as 'Gobi Head' and go straight up by way of sharp crimps. The only feature this route shares with Gobi Head is the rail at the bottom. Stay away from the holds far right as this is a different problem.

Line going up the furthest right part of this big boulder. Stand-start with left hand on a decent square knob, right hand on a diagonal side-pull and foot on a big sloping ledge. Tension up using an intermediate to the crack, get your feet up and easier to top.

The arete immediately left of 'The Calm Before the Storm.' Start matched on the decent square knob. From there its just a matter of braving the storm ahead.

Line up the overhang left and under The Storm. Stand-start on the lowest juggy rail, figure out a way to get established on the obvious cracks above, and exit right onto the finishing jug of The Storm. Named in honour of the stubborn lizard living in the start holds.

Alternate finish to Shelter from the Storm. Start in the same rail where the mjusi lives, but ignore the higher rail on the right and instead go straight up from the small pocket crack for a crimpy finish.

A tall, classic stand-alone line up arguably the cleanest face on the plains area. Start crouched, matching on lowest usable crimp rail. There are multiple ways to solve the problem above and become worthy of the legendary Ring.

On the far left of the boulder. Short problem from a stand-start on a rail where the rock above has broken off. Straight up through a tricky mantle.

The lowball boulder just to the right of the Tiger Shark. Sit start with a good right heel to get established, the rest is just a matter of getting up

To the immediate right of the cave, an obvious jug is where one starts. Don't be fooled by the grade, this climb demands lots of care.

To the far left of the cave, the short wall curves into a dilute arete. The route goes up this. do not fall.

Great introduction to highballing - good rock, good feet and good holds with a juggy finish. Stand-start in a kind of break in the bushes and trees about 10 m right of Bone Hole. Straight up the obvious line of holds to the top.

Stand-start on the left-hand side of the boulder, with hands on good holds. Work your way up and right along the jugs on the arete.

Second line from the left, straight up from a stand-start on two decent holds. Up and slightly right. The sit-start is V2, from the low blocky hold.

The best of the easier lines. Stand-start with hands in the diagional crack and follow it rightwards. The sit-start is V2, from the low blocky hold.

Stand-start on crimps in the middle of the boulder, with left and right in two slightly offset holds about halfway up the boulder. Straight up.

Sit-start matched on the lowest good hold at the bottom of the arrête and power up using both sides of the arete.

The sit-start to Machungwa. Start on the two low crimps down and right, hard scrunched-up move up and left to the start hold of Machungwa, and finish straight up. Harder for the tall.

A welcome route in the shade in the afternoon. At the back of the boulder start standing with feet low under the overhanging left side and hands on two good holds in the orange streak. Straight up.